A Photo Guide to Mongolia
I’m THAT friend. The one that texts you on a random Thursday in April with a travel proposition you can’t turn down.
“How do you feel about a trip to Mongolia in August?”
My text to my friend Nick was prompted by a note I’d found in my phone from 2014—a bucket list. Riding a camel in the Gobi desert was number six on the list. Mongolia has been in the back of my head for ages. Like Kilimanjaro, I tried unsuccessfully to get hired to run photo trips in Mongolia so I could go for free. There was always some excuse not to go, which rotated between the distance, time and money. When I went freelance full-time, Mongolia moved to the top of my list because I finally had the time.
Nick lived in Japan so it wasn’t too far him. We had traveled to Burma together five years prior so I knew he was up for the adventure in a remote corner of the world. Plus, he is also a photographer and loves to eat as much as I do. (Plus, he always packs the BEST snacks!) He agreed instantly and we set off to plan an epic adventure that was my highlight of 2018. Here is a breakdown of our trip and where to go in Mongolia.
Everything You Need to Know: Central Mongolia & the Gobi Desert
In this post, I include all of the logistics, costs and details about Mongolia. I’ve also included a breakdown of our trip by day with observations about the route and life on the road. (Scroll down to the bottom for the packing list!)
Do you have to take a guided tour in Mongolia?
The only way to do Mongolia is to book a tour. (And, I HATE tours, but there’s no way to drive yourself because there’s only a few main paved roads. Eighty percent of our trip was driving off-road through random fields with no signage.) We did our tour through the Vast Mongolia Guest House, which you can find on Booking.com, and loved it. A friend recommended a guide who organized the tour for us and found other people to join the trip to cut down the costs, which is a common practice. We ended up with five people on our trip including myself and Nick – Jorge, a Spanish chemist; Lisa, a British archeologist and Peter, a Canadian travel nurse based in Doha, Qatar.
Mongolia is so large that you can’t do the entire country in one trip unless you have a few months to spare. We opted for the 12-day Gobi Desert and Central Mongolia tour since Nick had limited vacation days. And, I had to be back in Texas for a big freelance project.
Food was included in the trip. Our guide and driver cooked really great meals every day!
Accommodation & Toilets
We stayed in ger (large round tents) camps every night except in Ulaanbaatar when we were in a guesthouse. A few of the camps were homestays where there was a family living in the camp with animals. We had individual single beds each night except for one night when we slept in sleeping bags on the floor at a homestay. Other camps were more geared to tourists so they didn’t have livestock nearby. Only three camps had showers for the entire 12-day trip. Bathrooms were always pit toilets or outhouses even when we stopped in cities. There was no running water outside of Ulaanbaatar.
Most of the gers had wood stoves with vents to keep us warm at night. There was only one night was I was really cold. Most have power for a few hours each night to charge your devices. We could also charge our phones in the van.
Day 1: Chingis Khaan Horse statue & Terelj National Park
The minute I saw Boris, it was love at first sight. Boris was our home for the next 12 days—a dark blue teal Russian van with pink interior. He was always the coolest van in the parking lot. (FYI: We named him Boris ourselves. He clearly looks like a Boris.)
Our driver, Otgoo, was the Mongolian version of MacGyver and Chuck Norris. He was the nicest guy, worked hard and could fix anything. He knew everyone and the younger drivers all said he was their role model. He could take the entire tire off the van in just a few short minutes. It was unreal. (Let’s just say if the zombie apocalypse ever arrives, I want to be on Otgoo’s team!)
Our first stop was Terelj National Park, which is close to Ulaanbaatar. We rode horses to Aryapala Temple Meditation Center, a Buddhist temple that reminded me a bit of India. My horse decided to go rouge and ran under some tree branches. I almost fell backwards off the horse like a scene from a Bugs Bunny cartoon. My shoulder and hand got scraped up, but I survived with a good story. The next stop was super touristy but a must-see—the giant Chinggis Khaan horse statue. It’s 131-feet tall and points east to his birth place. Oh, it’s Chinggis (pronounced “Ching+ gus”), not Genghis.
Day 2: Baga Gazriin Chuluu
Our first stop was the ruins of Manjusri Monastery, one of the many monasteries destroyed by the communists during the 1940s. The monks were either killed or forced to renounce their faith. Travel is always an excellent lesson in world history and a stark reminder of the reach and wrath of WWII. Above all, I hope it is a lesson for younger generations to not repeat the sins of the past.
We drove for ages and the driver turned off the paved road onto an unmarked dirt road—tire tracks through a field. There were no signs indicating where we were or where we were going. The driver just knew where to turn and sped across the field. This one of many moments of awe on this trip. We would spend a majority of the next few days driving through fields covered in a spiderweb of tire tracks going in all directions. The ride was always bumpy and inside of the van was padded a bit to absorb the shock a bit. Nick and I couldn’t understand how Otgoo knew where to go when everything looked a like, and there were no signs!
We ended up at Baggu Garzriin Chuluu, a set of crazy rock formations that reminded me of northern New Mexico. There was also a small cave and tons of rock piles scattered about.
One of the highlights of the day was when we stopped to pee. We pulled over on the side of the road in the middle of nowhere by an abandoned building with a pen for herding animals. No one else was in sight. The minute one of the girls had her pants down to pee, two boys on a motorcycle appeared around the corner to round up horses in a pen beside building where she was squatting down!
Day 3: Middle Gobi & Tsagaan Suvaga
The highlight of the Middle Gobi was the drive. The scenery was flat, filled with green grass and patches of sand. At one point, I saw a herd of animals in the distance—too big to be sheep and not quite the right shape for horses. As we got closer, I saw the humps—a herd of two-hump camels! There is nothing that I love more than camels (except for breakfast tacos). I insisted that we stop for a road-side photo shoot!
Our next stop was a town called Luus for a local village Naadam, a traditional festival in Mongolia. It’s held in July every year across the country but a few villages in the Gobi have a mini-Naadam in August. There were horse races and wrestling. We tried fermented horse milk, which tastes about as good as it sounds.
Mongolians all appear to be as addicted to their phones like the rest of the world. There were more towns than I imagined and cell service was quite frequent outside of the Gobi. People use motorcycles to herd animals instead of horses. It was much more modern than I expected. (I bought a SIM card that worked almost everywhere except a few spots in the Gobi.)
We stopped by Tsagaan Suvarga, a viewpoint over a series of rock dome formations and red sand cliffs that resembled parts of Argentina.
Day 4: Yoliin Am & Southern Gobi
Rain during the night made the roads a bit messy and slowed down our progress. The weather was dreary, foggy and overcast as we drove to Yoliin Am, a range of high, narrow canyons split by a river that supposedly remains froze until July. (We were there in August, and it was flowing especially after the rain.) We hiked about 10 kilometers into the canyon in drizzly rain. It was a bit slippery at times on the rocks. The weather really set the mood and made for better photos than sunny weather, I thought.
The museum at Yoliin Am had the most horrible taxidermy animals that I’ve ever seen. All of the Mongolian museums were this way. My favorite had an eagle with marbles for eyes—terrible, scary and hilarious.
After we made it back to the van, the rain started to pour and the road washed out in places leaving regular cars stranded. Boris—our badass Russian van—made it out okay. Otgoo is seriously the best driver ever!
The main paved road nearby was washed out and collapsed in places due to the rain. We made it to the Gobi desert that night to Khongoryn Els, the main attraction in the Southern Gobi—the largest sand dune in a 180-kilometer long field of dunes. THIS is exactly why I’d flown across the world.
There was a set of two-hump camels outside the ger camp when we arrived. I immediately started taking photos since the light was fading as sunset approached.
By far, this was the nicest ger camp of the trip because it had a proper shower ger! I got my first shower of the trip, which was so exciting! (The water pressure was terrible, and the water was REALLY cold. Still it felt great to be clean!!) The dining room also had tall table and regular height chairs, the first time we didn’t have to sit on the floor or short stools.
We took a sunset camel ride, which was lovely. The stars at night were amazing. Our visit aligned perfectly with the Perseids meteor shower. The Milky Way was on full display. We spent a good amount of time each night staring up at the sky watching for meteors.
Day 5: Gobi Desert & Flaming Cliffs
I got up at 6:30 a.m. to shower and take photos. I’d brought one dress to wear in photos so I wasn’t wearing my dirty hiking clothes in every shot. We drove out to the base of the sand dunes just as a man walking with two camels arrived. I was like a kid on Christmas morning taking photos of the camels with the dunes.
We started to climb the sand dunes at 9 a.m. It took 30-40 minutes just to get to the top! Climbing sand dunes is much HARDER than it looks! The view was amazing. We took silly photos, which is my favorite thing to do when I travel.
Today was the most amazing day of the trip. It was totally worth flying across the world for this. I’ve been obsessed with remote corners of the world for the past 10 years. It started with my first trip to India. This area is one of the most remote. It’s peak tourist season yet it doesn’t feel touristy. We had the dunes to ourselves except for a handful of people at the base!
We are only five days into our trip, and it feels like months.
Nick made a profound statement in the van, “I feel like this has become my life, and I’ve forgotten everything else.” That’s my common mindset on the road—it feels like my current situation is all I know.
Today, the inevitable happened – we had some tire problems and spent a good hour on the side of the road. Otgoo literally took the wheel apart and greased the barring in the amount of time it would have taken me to jack up the van. He has a stash of tools under the backseat that he keeps in an old women’s purse. I’m impressed by his resourcefulness. The tire repair put us a bit behind schedule.
Our final stop of the day was the Flaming Cliffs, known as Bayanzag. The red cliffs are a haven for dinosaur bones including the first dinosaur eggs discovered. Velociraptor bones were also found here. I wish we’d had more time here but that’s how I felt about almost every place except for the spider ger, which I’ll get to in a bit.
Day 6: Local Nomadic Family
We dropped off Peter in a nearby town so he could take the bus back to Ulaanbaatar to catch his train. We spent the afternoon and the next morning visiting the family of the guesthouse owner in Ulaanbaatar. They lived in traditional gers and had a herd of goats. We got to milk the goats and try traditional food. Overall, it was a very chill but amazing day!
The meteor shower was amazing that night. Nick and I sat outside on tiny stools staring at the sky until our necks hurt. (I highly suggest planning a Mongolia trip around a meteor shower if you can!)
Day 7: Ongi Monastery
We drove until 1 p.m. when we reached the ruins of Ongi Monastery, one of my favorite places we visited on the trip. It was built in 1660 with 11 buildings. A new complex with 17 buildings was built in the 1800s. All were destroyed in 1939 by the communist anti-religious purges. The complex was huge and stunning!
We stayed in a nice ger camp by the river – the only river that runs through the Gobi. The camp has two luxuries we haven’t seen yet on the trip – cold beer and hot showers. It’s our third shower of the trip!
We’ve had to drink out of plastic water bottles supplied by our guide/driver because there’s been very little ground water in the Gobi. I hate plastic and brought a water filter but it’s been useless.
There are times Mongolia reminds of me of India except it’s cleaner, nicer. It doesn’t have the overpopulation issues that plague India. There’s a luxury camp next to our camp. It’s the only luxury accommodation we’ve seen since the Flaming Cliffs. People still have to take a van here. There’s no glamourous alternate route or airport. The environment is pristine with a bit of litter near cities.
The people are genuinely friendly in Mongolia because it hasn’t been overrun with tourism. (I don’t feel like I’m being scammed 20 times a day like I did in Vietnam.) Mongolia is still off the beaten path but has an infrastructure for tourism but hasn’t been poisoned by it. It’s refreshing and rare to visit a place that feels this way! I hope it never changes.
Day 8: Ulaan Tsutgalan Waterfall & Dance Party
The weather was cold and rainy so I was grateful we spent the entire day driving even though it was all dirt roads. We stopped for lunch at a small roadside rest stop that looked like a scene from a zombie movie. An animal skull was hanging over a sign that said “Grill & Smokes” in front of a few haphazard buildings.
We stopped at an overlook at the Ulaan River, the longest river in Mongolia and reached the waterfall by 6 p.m. The falls were unimpressive, but the walk to the falls was through lush green valley filled with yaks grazing.
We couldn’t find our driver when we got back. Nick joked that he was probably killing our dinner. We found our driver a few minutes later. He’d literally just helped two guys slaughter a sheep!
We are closer to the capital now. There’s a lot more people and more ger camps. There was a lot of trash near the parking lot of the waterfall, which was gross and disturbing. It was the largest amount of trash we’d seen on the trip. I had flashbacks to India for a moment.
We had a huge bonfire at our ger camp to say farewell to Lisa and Jorge who were leaving the next day. Otgoo pulled Boris up to the bonfire so we’d have music. There were a few locals and other travelers—an Australian and some French girls. There we were in the middle of the Mongolia under the Milky Way singing along to Beyonce’s “Single Ladies” followed by some Maroon 5 and Backstreet Boys. We went through a couple bottles of vodka and a bottle of red wine between us, the drivers and the locals. It turned into a dance party and was one of the best nights of the trip!
Day 9: Tsenkher Hot Springs
Nick and I said goodbye to Lisa and Jorge in the morning. Our next stop was the most touristy place of the trip—hot springs. (Why are people so enamored with hot springs? I’ve never understood it and never really enjoy them.) The water was piped into a series of thermal pools that varied temperatures. Our ger camp by the springs was one of the most photogenic place of the trip!
It’s crazy how much the landscape has changed as we drove. Yesterday, it was lush green grass with yaks. Today, the mountains appeared with a single row of tall trees along the rim that resembled spikes on a dragon’s tail. Marmots were running around everywhere.
The road has been the worst today. I’ve been saying that to myself every day, but today, it’s true. Boris shakes nonstop. We crossed a sketchiest bridge today that was literally falling apart. It looked like it was made with toothpicks. Otgoo made us get out and walk across on foot. Then, he drove the van across. (Check out the photo above!!!)
The nights have gotten colder as we’ve gone north. I can see my breath at night. It seems like most of the other travelers we meet are on the Trans-Siberian Railway and only have five days or so in between trains so they can’t see much of the country. I can’t wait to come back to spend more time in Mongolia to explore the North and other regions. The train is also on my list. (If you are taking the train, give yourself a few WEEKS, not days to explore.)
Day 10: Kherogo, Terkh & Crater Lake
We stopped for lunch by a small scenic stream. Otgoo took off the front right wheel of the van then walked into town. Four hours later, he came back with new brake pads. He’d basically hitchhiked to another town to get them! Due to the daily, we arrived at the lake after sunset.
Day 11: Khorgo Crater, Terkh National Park & Karakorum
I woke up at sunrise to take photos. The ger camp and lake were stunning. We hiked up the Khorgo Vul Volcano carter and walked along the rim. We were above 6,000 feet in elevation so I could feel the altitude a bit. Apparently, we spent too much time on the top, and our driver called our guide to tell us to walk down the opposite edge of the crater to meet him on another road on the other side. We literally hiked down the backside of the crater, which was filled with little rocks. We kept sliding and falling the entire way. It was a nightmare, but we made it back to Boris!
Our ger was covered in spiders. I tried to catch a few and take them outside. I hate to kill them, but there was just too many. We ended up killing more than 10! It was like a horror movie. Nick even found one in his sleeping bag!!! We were both ready to get back to showers and clean beds.
It was just before 6 p.m. when we reached Karakorum, a supply base established by Chinggis Khan in the 1300s. It’s a huge walled complex lined with stupas. There’s a large temple complex and monastery with monks. We arrived right before it closed so we rushed around trying to go inside before the buildings closed. It was my favorite monastery in Mongolia.
Nick and I had Otgoo stop the van so we could take portraits of him with Boris in a field outside of town.
We spend the night at a ger camp near 30 kilometers of small sand dunes reffered to at the mini-Gobi. (It’s close to Ulaanbaatar so people will often go here if they don’t have time to go to the actual Gobi.) When we arrived, there was a lone horse tied to a pole and no other animals around the camp.
Right before bed, Nick was outside the ger brushing his teeth in the dark. He yells “Anna, come look at this!” I walk out with my headlamp but can’t see anything. He tells me to come closer. All of a sudden I see three pairs of eyes that belong to three two-hump camels tied up to the same pole the lone horse had been tied to before. I literally squealed—camels lived in our camp!
Day 12: Khustai National Park & Ulaanbaatar
I got up at sunrise to photograph the camels. I’d set my alarm for 6:30 a.m. but woke up at 6:15 a.m. when I heard people outside. I opened the door, and the camels were gone. Heartbroken, I grabbed my camera and walked around the side of ger. I found the camels – they were munching on the grass nearby! The best part was that they’d multiplied overnight—there were five now! I photographed the camels and the local family for over an hour. I’m pretty sure the family thought I was crazy chasing the camels with my camera!
The food has been surprisingly amazing. For dinner last night, our guide made fried dumplings. For breakfast, they made us pizza – perfectly pan-fried crust with cucumber, potatoes, cherry tomatoes and eggs with pasta sauce. It was phenomenal.
We arrived at Khustai National Park in the afternoon, which is known for wild horses. (The horses were extinct in the wild, but a few were in zoos. They were bred in zoos and released again successfully in the wild.) We saw the horses right way on the rim of a nearby hill. We walked closer to get photos but couldn’t get too close due to park regulations.
We were sad to see our tour end because we couldn’t imagine our life without Boris. We arranged a post-tour dinner with our driver, guide and Peace, the guide who put our tour together. We went to a brewery and ended up in a karaoke bar. Nick was great at karaoke because he has lived in Japan — the land of karaoke — for 10 years. Of course, Otgoo was amazing. He’d been a drummer in a band and was amazing at singing the Mongolian songs. I couldn’t think of a better way to end the trip! It was well after midnight when we got back to the guesthouse.
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When to go to Mongolia
High-Season: June to August
Warm and mostly dry weather are the norm in June and July. Cooler temperatures and rain move in during late August. Book everything in advance around Naadam in mid-July. (2019 dates are July 11-15th.)
The eagle festivals are held in September and October in Olgii and Bayan-Olgii. Some ger camps and guesthouses close in the shoulder and low season. It’s frigid in December/January and air pollution is terrible in Ulaanbaatar from all the smoke from the wood stoves. Winds and dust storms are bad in March and April.
If you want to visit the reindeer people in the north, it involves a three-day horse ride in the summer months after driving for days. In May, it only involves a one-day horse ride but still in involves a few days of driving.
How much does it cost to go to Mongolia?
Our tour cost about $1,200 each for Nick and I. The cost varied per day on our trip since the amount of people on tour fluctuated. (The average is $30-50 per day per person for a budget tour.) I booked my flight in May for my August trip. It paid a little less than $1,300 roundtrip from Charlotte on United Airlines. I had a layover in JFK and Beijing. On the way back, I opted for a 12-hour layover in San Francisco to visit a friend. Then, flew back via DC to Charlotte. (This long route back saved me $500 on the airfare.) Overall, I spent about $2,800 for the trip. The additional $300 was driver/guide tips, airport taxis and food/accommodation for two days in the capital after the tour ended. It was one of the most expensive trips I’ve ever taken but totally worth it!
Packing List for Summer in Mongolia (June-August)
- Headlamp
- Wet Wipes & biodegradable soap
- Hiking boots
- Flip flops for communal showers, walking around the ger sites & the Gobi (A pair of black Haviana’s are my personal favorites for traveling!)
- 2 pairs of hiking pants & 1 pair of jeans for Ulaanbaatar
- 1 pair of long pants for sleeping
- 1- cotton tank for layering
- 5-7 shirts
- 1- long sleeve thermal shirt
- 1- long sleeve sun shirt for Gobi
- 1- wide brimmed travel hat
- 1-pair of shorts for the Gobi desert
- Scarf
- Hoodie and a zip-up fleece
- Raincoat to layover hoodie or fleece
- Snacks (peanut butter packs, nuts, granola bars)
- USB-cable for charging phones in the car
- Sunscreen (I recommend the natural chemical-free kind.)
- Sleeping bag liner (Sleeping bags are often provided so this liner is critical!)
- Undies and socks (I tend to pack one-pair per day for trips where laundry is difficult like this. I recommend 5-7 pairs of hiking socks for hiking and keeping warm at night.)
- Extra camera batteries (I had two for my DSLR and only had to charge once. If you have a mirrorless camera that eats through batteries, I’d have six at least!)
- Toilet paper (a 4-pack lasted me and Nick the entire trip)
- Kleenex
- Dramamine (I recommend the natural non-drowsy ginger kind!)
- Gloves
- Travel towel
- Small tripod for night photography
- Camera clip for easy camera access (Peter had this for his mirrorless DSLR & I was super jealous!)
- Inflatable neck pillow
- Journal (This is a good way to use spare time & remember the trip!)
The 17 Best Travel Apps
In 2002, I took my first trip overseas to study abroad in England. Smart phones didn’t exist. Texting wasn’t even a thing yet. While the nostalgic part of me misses the days of paper maps and film cameras, smart phones do make travel and life a lot easier.
I’ve been on the road almost nonstop for over a year and keep trying new apps to simplify my travels and life. Here’s a recap of my current favorite travel apps – almost all of them are free, available on all phone platforms and have web versions!
1. XE Currency Converter (Free)
XE is my favorite currency app. It allows you to add up to 10 currencies and switch easily been them. The best part is that it even works offline using the last updated rate. I use this all the time to check the cost of things to make sure I’m not overspending. TIP: If you have the option to pay in different currencies, check the rate for both to see which is cheaper. It’s almost always cheaper to pay in the local currency.
XE Currency Converter app is FREE and even works offline with the last updated rate. It’s saved in a lot during the last month in Vietnam.
2. Maps.me (Free)
The offline GPS app Maps.me is a must-have for all hikers and anyone traveling to areas without phone service. Simply download a map of where you are going, and the app will help you navigate efficiently without phone service. It allows you to create and edit routes, which many hikers share online. Read the app user guide before using in remote locations. Another highlight is that the app is completely free—no in-app purchases!
I used Maps.me to map all the places we stopped on my Mongolia trip back in August. It’s a great, customizable offline map tool.
3. 1Password (Monthly fee)
1Password is my favorite app of all time even when I’m not traveling. The app securely stores and organizes all your passwords in one place. It’s easily searchable for what you need. I keep EVERYTHING in it – bank details, frequently flyer accounts and email passwords. It syncs across devices easily and is very secure. You use one password to open the app. (TIP: Use a password that you’ve never used elsewhere.) I use it to copy and paste my credit card number when shopping online. While the app isn’t free, it’s inexpensive – $2.99/month or $4.99 for a family of 5. There’s a free 30-day trail. (Full disclosure: I got this app for free through my old job five years ago so I don’t pay for it.)
I’ve used 1Password for years to manage passwords, bank accounts and loyalty programs. It’s secure and allows you to copy and paste numbers for online shopping.
4. Skyscanner
For flights, Skyscanner is my favorite search engine. It shows all major U.S. airlines and many budget airlines that other searches exclude like Southwest. It also has an option to show prices for the month to let you choose the cheapest day to fly. You can also search by regions. While I use Skyscanner for searches, I prefer to book directly through the airline instead of third party websites. That way if there are issues with the flight, I don’t have to go through the third-party and can go diredlty through the airline.
Skyscanner is the best flight search engine because it includes budget airlines that other search engines exclude.
5. Klook
I’ve used Klook to buy discounted admission tickets and transportation options online across the world. It saved me roughly $10 on entry to Gardens by the Bay in Singapore and $13 on the cable car to the big Buddha in Hong Kong. I’ve also used it for private transfers in Vietnam. The best part of the app is that you get points for each purchase and points for reviews that can be redeemed for money off your next purchase. Overall, I’m a big fan because it saves me money and I never had to stand in line at popular attractions. For $4 off your first purchase, use my referral code here!
I discovered KLOOK in Hong Kong for discount admission tickets. It’s one of my favorite apps because it allows me to skip ticket lines!
6. WhatsApp (Free)
The chances are high that you are already using WhatsApp. If not, then you need to download this text and voice message app NOW. The app is owned by Facebook and works across all phone platforms and locations. It’s a great way to connect with friends and even business when you are traveling. In South America, I used it to make dinner reservations. In places where you have to pay for internet, What’s App is often free to use without payment.
7. Skype (Free)
I’ve been using Skype for years and it’s the most useful tool when you are traveling. You can call other Skype numbers for free and pay a small fee per minute to call overseas. Here’s the best part – American’s can call toll-numbers in the U.S. for FREE with Skype, which is important if you ever need to call your bank from abroad or any type of customer service. I literally do this all the time. (I also use it to call the 24-hour Walgreens pharmacy in the U.S. when I’m sick abroad and want to double check medications.) You can also pay a small monthly fee ($6.50 USD) for a phone number through Skype so people can call you no matter where you are. I did this recently for one month when I was launching my book project then canceled it after the month ended. I also use this to text my mom, who still has a flip phone. While she can’t text back, it allows me to let her know I arrived at my destination safely so she won’t worry.
Skype is the best app for making calls while abroad. I use it for business calls all the time.
8. Ebates (Free)
Ebates is one of the new tricks I discovered last year to save money on travel. (I’ve saved almost $70 in the last 12 months on it!) It’s a cash back app and website that’s simple to use. When you shop online, go to their website and use their referral link for a percentage back on the purchase. The money is put directly in your PayPal account four times a year. To keep your spending in check, only use this site to buy things you are planning to buy anyways. I use it for everything from renewing my website domain on GoDaddy.com to buying clothes to booking accommodation through Booking.com for my travels. This app will save you money even if you aren’t traveling!
There’s a great sign up bonus – a $10 Target or Walmart gift card after your first purchase of $25 or more. Use this referral link for the offer: ebates.com/r/AMAZ812
I made almost $70 last year from purchases I made through Ebates! Even if you aren’t traveling, this app will save you money.
9. Booking.com
I’ve started using Booking.com for all of my accommodation reservations for the past year. This was partly inspired by the Ebates cash back benefit I mentioned above. Plus, Booking.com offers a discount of 10 percent on select properties if you book five stays in less than two years, which I use a lot. They also price match other websites and offer free cancelation (with some limits). Pro tip: Sign up with my referral link for $25 off your first $50 booking. Then, refer any friends you are traveling with so you both save $25 when they book accommodation in the next city on your itinerary!
I’ve booked nearly all of my accommodation through Booking.com for over a year. Sign up and get $25 off your first booking with this link!
10. Genius Scan (Free)
This PDF-scanner app is super helpful. It allows you to photograph anything – receipts, maps, brochures—and make a PDF file from the documents. It’s the best for tracking expenses for business travel. You can take photos through the app or import them from the camera roll on your phone. I find it useful for both tracking receipts when I travel and sending them to Dropbox. I also use it photograph brochures to reduce my paper usage.
While this may not look organized, Genius Scan does help me sort my receipts for my taxes and banking. I export them to DropBox as a backup.
11. Postagram (Free;$1.60-$2/postcard)
I’ve spent countless hours on trips writing postcards to friends and family. It’s time consuming, but everyone appreciates real mail. Then, I started to notice that stamps were more than $1 each and many of my postcards from far flung places weren’t arriving at all. That’s when I started using the Postagram app to send printed postcards using my photos. The app allows you to customize the background design and colors. The most important feature is that it allows you to schedule delivery date so I never miss a birthday or holiday. While I still send real postcards when I can, Postagram has been the next best option. The cards start at $2 each but decrease in price if you buy in bulk. International locations cost $3 a card and delivery times vary. The printing quality is excellent.
This is a postcard I sent my Aunt with one of my own photos of my globetrotting gnome, Alfred. I’m a big fan of the Postagram app and how you can customize everything including delivery dates so I never miss a birthday!
12. Hoopla
Hoopla is an online platform that allows you to read eBooks and listen to audiobooks for free with your public library membership across North America. It also works on web browsers. I use it a lot for travel guides and audiobooks when I travel. There’s a monthly limit for the amount of books you can check out that varies based on your library membership. I get four per month from my Austin, Texas library. This is also great to use when you are at home.
I read a lot more books thanks to the Hoopla app and my public library membership.
13. Grab
Grab is the Uber of Southeast Asia. (They literally bought out Uber.) It covers Thailand, Vietnam, Malaysia, Singapore, Indonesia, Myanmar and the Philippines. It works very similar to Uber and Lyft except there is an option for a cheaper motorbike taxi. (The motorbike taxi provides a helmet for all passengers.) Aside from rush hour in major cities like Bangkok, it’s a much more affordable and convenient option. Use code GRABTRAVELANNA for a discount off your first ride!
Grab is the Uber of Southeast Asia and the cheapest form of transport aside from walking. Use the code GRABTRAVELANNA for a discount off your first ride.
14. TripIt
I just started using TripIt to organize my reservations for accommodation and flights a few weeks ago. Overall, it’s been really helpful for this long-term trip. All of my confirmation numbers and details for the reservation are available in the app so I don’t have to search through my emails.
This is my travel schedule in Vietnam from earlier this month in TripIt.
15. Google Translate (Free)
Google Translate has been a lifesaver on my current Asia trip. Since SIM cards are cheap, I’ve had data in every country. I simply type a phrase and show it to my taxi driver or anyone I need to communicate with. It also lets you save phrases to use later. There’s a camera option so you can translate labels, which is helpful if you’re trying to find lotion that doesn’t have whitening cream in it in Asia. (It’s nearly impossible in Vietnam.) My favorite app in Spanish speaking countries is SpanishDICT, it allows you to translate phrases and also provides conjugations.
Sometimes even simple questions need to be translated.
16. Dollarbird (Free)
Dollarbird is a free expense tracking app that I use to track my spending on my travels. It can be used for your regular budgeting. I make custom categories and manually add my expenses. It’s provides a running balance summary and allows you to export the data to a spreadsheet. (I only use it to track expenses, not income.) I used it to create the charts in my previous blog post about the real cost of travel, where I tracked my expenses for a seven-month South America trip.
These are my expenses from Chiang Mai, Thailand for the month of December. I’ve used Dollarbird for years to track my spending when I travel.
17. Splitwise (Free)
I wish I’d discovered this app sooner! This is the easiest way to split expenses with friends. You add items and can easily select the people and amount (full amount, half, percentage, etc.) you are owed. It keeps track and allows you to settle via PayPal or on your own. The only caveat is that if you add expenses in different currencies it won’t convert them to a single currency for you. It will just give you a balance for each currency separately.
This is a screenshot of expense from a Portugal trip with three friends.
BONUS APP: If you’re traveling anywhere in Asia, then I recommend the free AirVisual app to check the air quality. It uses sources from government agencies to tell you the current air quality. It’s really helpful in places with pollution (India) or burning seasons like Chiang Mai where you might need to wear masks!
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COMING UP NEXT
Photo Guide to Mongolia
In my next post, I’ll share a day-by-day photo breakdown of my Mongolia trip. This trip was the highlight of 2018 for me.
(Hint: There will be lots of CAMELS!)
Book Launch: How to Be Good With Money
I am super excited to announce that my first book Good With Money launches today!
The book answers the most common question I get asked: “How do you afford to travel so much?” Good With Money shares my story and documents the financial habits that allowed me to travel nonstop for almost 10 years with no debt, all on an average income of $30,000.
I started this blog in 2014 to help other travelers and share my experiences. But, I can only cover so much in a blog post. I figured it was time to hunker down and build a bigger tool to help others, which is why I devoted this year to the book. I’ve had the idea in my head for years but didn’t sit down to write it down until January. Since I’ve been on the road all year, the book was written across many locations from Buenos Aires to Easter Island to the Galapagos with references throughout the text.
In three parts, the book focuses on redefining priorities, maximizing savings, and slashing travel expenses. The first section focuses on my overall financial philosophy and savings techniques. The second section on top money hacks that digs into normal life expenses, including how to save on medical costs, paying for college without debt, making coupons worth your while and selling the stuff you don’t need. In the third and final section, I share my best travel hacks.
For more about the project, check out this page to read an excerpt or email me (Anna@TravelLikeAnna.com).
HOW TO GRAB YOUR COPY:
It’s available in BOTH paperback and eBook formats on Amazon! Click here!
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COMING UP NEXT
Best of 2018
In my next post, I’ll wrap up 2018 with a recap of the most popular posts and adventures from the year to inspire your 2019 New Year’s travel resolutions!
12 Travel Gifts Under $100
I discovered a lot of new gear during my adventures this year including the Osprey 32-liter pack with hip belt I used for my Havasu Falls hike.
12 Travel Gifts Under $100
2018 has been an epic year of travel for me and Alfred the gnome! During my adventures to Easter Island, Havasu Falls and the Galapagos, I discovered a lot of great travel gear that has made my life easier. Several of these were suggestions from friends and other travelers that I wish I’d bought years ago.
Here’s a few ideas (big and small) to help you find the perfect gifts for friends and family. Feel free to add these to your own Christmas list before you send it to Santa!
BAGGU’s reusable bags fold up into a small case to fit easily in your bag or purse.
I discovered these amazing BAGGU reusable bags last Christmas through a friend. I initially bought it because it had llamas on it. (I’m slightly obsessed with llamas.) It is the most amazing reusable bag on the market, which is great for trips to the grocery store and really handy when traveling for shopping or anytime you need a bag. They can hold up to 50 pounds and only cost $10! They come in a plethora of funky animal designs and include a storage pouch. I keep it in my purse and backpack at all times. (Cost: $10)
2. Dr. Bronner’s Organic Lavender Hand Sanitizer
Travel is often smelly and gross. The best way to stay healthy is to wash your hands regularly. If a sink isn’t handy, then Dr. Bronner’s hand sanitizer is the next best thing. It also has a nice lavender scent to help with smelly locations. (Cost: $12.50 for two)
Not all travel clothes lines are the same so be sure to get one made of bungee cord to hold your clothes in place! Normal rope lines aren’t as secure!
The thing that I hate the most about traveling is dealing with laundry. Earlier this year, a hostel in Chile charged me $12 USD for a regular size load of laundry and didn’t even fold my clothes! (For the price, they should have folded them AND sprinkled them with gold dust!!!!) Laundry is either overpriced or my clothes come back destroyed. I try to find laundromats to do it myself. I often don’t have enough for a load so I just started washing the few pieces of clothing I need in the sink and hanging them in my room. My friend Gen told me about this amazing bungee cord laundry line this year! The bungee cord makes it easy to cinch the clothing so it doesn’t fall off the line. (Cost: $17.99)
I was jealous of every single person on my Galapagos trip who had a rash guard, which is a long sleeve shirt made of either spandex, nylon or polyester. While it’s great for water activities like snorkeling, kayaking and surfing, they are great for just everyday travel because the fabric is moisture wicking and provides SPF protection. While I LOVE my Columbia Silver Ridge Lite button-down shirt for hiking, it wasn’t great for snorkeling. You can buy these anywhere but I recommend REI or Land’s End, which often has them on sale for $20. (Cost: $20+)
Lightweight dry sacks are the both effective and pack easier than thick river dry bags. Avoid the ultralight sacks that rip very easily! The 13-liter bag fits my camera body and a wide angle lens with room to spare!
As a photographer, keeping my camera gear safe has been the biggest burden. I travel with a ridiculous amount of rain gear – ponchos, rain covers for my pack, etc. While thick river dry sacks are great for rafting trips, they are too bulky to travel with for long-term trips. The ultra-thin sacks rip too easy. The lightweight ones are perfect, and I keep one rolled up in my daypack at all times for my camera. (Cost: $13-30 depending on size)
In college, my best friend gave me a journal to take to England for my semester abroad. I caught the travel bug on that trip, which lead to this crazy traveling life I currently live. I still keep a journal to this day about my adventures. Moleskine notebooks (size: 3.5″ x 5.5″) are the best because they are tiny and durable. I have a shoebox full of filled with journals at home that hopefully will one day become a book project. (Cost: $8-10)
I bought a lightweight Humangear spork that’s been a huge help this year. Initially, it was for hiking but comes in handy everywhere. It’s the perfect companion for the jar of peanut butter I travel with. When I am in the States, I’ll keep it in my car. My goal is to avoid using disposable plastic cutlery at all times. (Cost: $3.95)
I found these great reusable shampoo bottles at Target that I LOVE. To save plastic and the environment, fill them up with your normal shampoo and body wash. For more ways to be a more eco-friendly traveler, check out this post I wrote a few months ago! (Cost: $3 at Target or 13.50 for 3-pack with suction cups from Amazon)
I discovered these low sugar (only 1 gram) electrolyte tablets last summer in Yellowstone. They were a lifesaver during the four terrible bouts of food poisoning (more on that here) I had earlier this year. I always pack a tube of these for every trip! They are essential for all hiking trips! (Cost: $7 a tube or 4 tubes for $23)
10. Eagle Creek Compression Bags
Every adventure teaches me something new. My hike to Havasu Falls this year was a reminder that compression sacks are a blessing. They really help condense sleeping bags and other items for hiking. They also work well as a storage sack and space saver for dirty laundry, which is why these bags above are perfect for any type of trip. (Cost: $30 for set of two)
No matter where you are in your life, there’s a great travel book out there.
- Solo or Long-term Travel: Vagabonding by Rolf Potts (This book inspired my first long-term adventure in Australia and Asia.)
- Traveling as a Couple: Ultimate Journeys for Two: Extraordinary Destinations on Every Continent by Mike and Anne Howard (Mike & Anne have been on the world’s longest honeymoon! They left in January 2012 and never stopped travel. National Geographic approached them to write this awesome book for couples.)
- Travel Humor: Our Man in Havana by Graham Greene (This is one of the funniest books I’ve ever read. It’s a great description of Cuba.)
- Adventure Junkies: Born to Run By Christopher McDougall
- Africa: West with the Night by Beryl Markham (My favorite travel book of all time.)
- Australia: In a Sunburned Country by Bill Bryson
- Asia: The Great Railway Bazaar by Paul Theroux & The Lady & the Monk by Pico Iyer
For our Havasu Falls hike, my friends and I all took Osprey packs with hip belts, which are critical for any hike to distribute weight properly.
For too many years, I hiked with a regular day pack with no hip belt support, which helps distribute the weigh off your shoulders. The reason was simple – my camera gear and laptop fits better in a daypack than a proper hiking pack. I always travel with a daypack filled with my camera gear so it seemed silly to buy a second hiking pack that I wouldn’t use as often. (I wasn’t going to take both on every trip!) I ended up buying one on sale at REI before my Havasu Falls trip, and the hip supports saved me! A proper hiking pack has better back and hip belt supports. While it’s not practical to travel with everywhere, it’s my new hiking pack. (As I’ve mentioned before, I’m a huge fan of Osprey because of their lifetime warranty. They’ve replaced two packs for me for free.) I recommend 24-32 liter packs for one to three day hikes. (Cost: Depending on size, these packs run from $90-175 USD. Take advantage of REI sales and their outlet for prices around the $100 mark.)
For more great travel gift ideas, check out my packing lists from Galapagos, Kilimanjaro and Havasu Falls! Don’t forget these great eco-friendly products!
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*Please note some Amazon and REI affiliate links are included above. If you click on the link and make any type of Amazon/REI purchase, I earn a small commission with no additional cost to you. I hope you found this post helpful and appreciate your support of the blog. Please email me if you have questions.
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COMING UP NEXT
“Good With Money” Book Launch
I’m super excited to announce that my first book “Good With Money” will launch on December 11th! The book answers the most common question I get asked: “How do you afford to travel so much?” I started this blog in 2014 to help other travelers and share my experiences. But, I can only cover so much in a blog post. The book documents the financial habits that allowed me to travel nonstop for almost 10 years with no debt, all on an average income of $30,000. I’m super excited to share it with you! Email list subscribers will get a surprise on launch day!
Interview with Travel Hacking Expert Travis Sherry
In the latest Travel Tuesday Interview series, I chat with Travis Sherry, host of the #1 travel podcast on iTunes, Extra Pack of Peanuts. Travis and his wife, Heather, are the ultimate travel hacking experts. He shares his travel stories and top hacking tips in this interview.
Travel hacking expert Travis Sherry is the host of the #1 travel podcast on iTunes, Extra Pack of Peanuts. He’s been on the road almost full-time since 2010. (Photo courtesy of Travis Sherry)
Name: Travis Sherry
Age:35
Hometown: Philly
Country count: My best guess is 51.
Website: ExtraPackofPeanuts.com
1. How did you start traveling?
There are three distinct points. The first was when I was 18, I took a road trip to Florida. That was the first time I’d traveled without my family. It was me and buddy. We took a road trip from Philly to Florida to move sister into college. That was the first point where I experienced freedom. I still count it as one of the best trips I’ve had.
The second turning point was when I was 26. I traveled a bit before that. I lived for four months in Switzerland for an internship. That was the first time I lived abroad. That was a whole other experience. I was living abroad and making a life abroad. That was a distinctive moment.
The third point when I was 27. After returning home from Switzerland in 2010, Heather and I decided to move to Japan seven months later. That was the beginning of the third stage of my travel life. Travel became the main part of our life. That really opened up international travel for us a bit and this idea that this isn’t just a thing we are doing for vacation. More of our life than not is going to be spent traveling.
Travis often works from the road and makes the most of layovers by recording podcasts like in this photo from the Amsterdam airport. (Photo courtesy of Travis Sherry)
2. What does the average work day look like for you?
I’ve tried to make it more systematic and more normal. I’ll start working at 10 a.m. I might go to the gym and have an easy breakfast in the morning. The bulk of my work is done between 10 a.m. and 3 p.m. What that involves depends on the day. Some days are podcast recordings. Usually on Tuesdays we do weekly workshops. That’s my day to focus on the community we run.
Recently, it’s been a lot of big picture planning and then, organizing the team to get things done. Depending on the day, I try to do different things. Mondays are calls. Tuesdays are podcast recording. Wednesday and Thursday are more creative days—shooting videos, writing and getting into that flow. Thursday or Friday are housekeeping days like doing taxes or bookkeeping. Batch responding to emails on one day. I don’t kill the creative flow to respond to emails. I’m trying to get better at working in those zones. It’s become more systematic as it goes.
The more organized it became, the more I enjoyed it and allowed myself spontaneity. Then, the rest of the day is open after 3 p.m. Trying to batch by day has been a big thing for us. You stay in the zone.
3. Share one of your travel highlights.
My favorite trip I’ve ever taken was to the Republic of Georgia. Every time anyone would mention Georgia, they were the biggest fan of it. It had raving fans. I had very high expectations going in. Finally, Heather and I went. I was a little worried it wouldn’t live up to the lofty expectations. Fortunately, it not only lived up to it but was better than I thought. That’s the best way to describe it. Essentially, we were in Georgia and we got on this bus, and it was the wrong bus. Then, we had a feast in this women’s house and the whole town came!
It’s the only place I’ve been that’s as naturally beautiful as Switzerland. It’s more rugged and 1/10 price of Switzerland. Great food. Incredible scenery. The food was fantastic. The people were super nice. We spent 12 days there in July of 2016. It just blew me away. It was everything I wanted out of it. It’s not super touristy. Everyone was excited to have you there.
We drove the third most dangerous road in the world. We had a driver. We got to this town with a village of 50 people. It’s only open five months of year due to snowfall. You feel like you’ve gone back in time. There’s a castle up over the hill and wild horses. I asked a guy, “Whose horses are those?” He was looking at me like I was crazy. He goes, “Those are just wild horses.” I guess I never thought of that before. Out there, it’s just this awesome, neat experience that lived up to every expectation I had.
Travis’ wife, Heather, took this shot of him at Ballycarbery Castle in Ireland last year. They have been using airline miles mostly from credit cards to pay for their flights. (Photo courtesy of Travis Sherry)
4. What is the biggest myth about travel hacking?
I’ll give you two. One is the myth I believed when I started—that frequent flyer miles were only for people who traveled a lot. You don’t have to fly a lot to earn a ton of frequent flyer miles. You can do it through credit card sign ups and shopping. That’s the reason a lot of people don’t get into it. They don’t think they can earn enough to get a free flight. They think they have to be getting on planes all the time to earn the miles. You can sign up for a credit card and get a free flight to Europe with the signup bonus from the card!
The second myth is that when you earn points that it’s super hard to redeem your points. It’s hard at first but with a little bit of knowledge, you pull the veil back, and it can become something that’s easy to do.
Usually, it’s just me saying, “You aren’t looking in the right place.” It’s easier than people think if they spend time learning the right stuff.
What credit card does he recommend? Chase Sapphire Reserve for people who travel several times a year, Chase Preferred for people who travel one or two times a year.
5. Name three things you always pack for a trip.
- I always pack headphone splitters to watch a movie on the computer with Heather on flights.
- Mack’s earplugs
- Eye mask
- For guys, Bluffworks. They make men’s travel chinos, blazers and suits. All stretch and wrinkle free. I have five pairs, one in every color of the chinos. It’s the best travel clothing.
Travis works from the beach in Croatia or anywhere there is wifi! (Photo courtesy of Travis Sherry)
6. How do you balance work and travel?
Now, after of years of trying to figure it out, we try to batch work and batch travel. Instead of trying to do both at once really well. There are certain circumstances where we have to. When we are at home in Philly, that’s the time to move projects forward. That’s the time to make sure anything that needs to get done gets done. We’ve become a lot more organized that way. Then, when we are traveling, we’ve got some really big plans. We’ve got all these projects moving. We are able to tread water. It’s not that we are not working at all; we are doing things that are easier to do [and] are quick. When we are traveling, we are 80% travel and 20% work. It’s hard to build a business and travel.
We have a house in Philly. I was so opposed to moving back into a house. In August 2015, we moved back into the house. We live here when we are at home. Over the last year or two, it’s been about 50% on the road and 50% home.
7. The name of your podcast, Extra Pack of Peanuts, references your hatred of flying when you were younger. How did you overcome this fear? Any tips for others to do the same?
When I was a kid, I don’t know if was fear. I thought I would get sick, and then, I did get sick. I think some of it was naturally getting out of that [mindset]. I’m old enough to know that if you get sick on a plane, it’s not the end of the world. I think the second part was that I just ended up going on to my adult years. I just thought, “This is how I’m going to get to where I’m going to go.” Is it worth it to get sick for a day and then spend two to three weeks in Europe? The ends were worth the means.
I still don’t like flying or enjoy it. But, I also don’t mind it as much. I’m like middle ground. Maybe, I like it a little less than the average person.
Last year, Travis and Heather Sherry had their first child–Whittaker, who will turn one this year. Whittaker took his first flight when he was six months old. They are spending the holidays in their home in Philly and took Whittaker to visit a nearby pumpkin patch recently for this photo. (Photo courtesy of Travis Sherry)
8. How has having a child changed the way you travel? [His son Whittaker is turning one soon!]
It hasn’t been such a change. We still took all the trips we wanted to take. We don’t see that changing.
I guess that thing that does change is that we are going to start traveling slower, and we already have. Instead of going to four cities in 14 days, let’s do seven days in Barcelona and seven days in Budapest. I think we’ve started to slow down some and take our time.
The other big change was that we couldn’t go out at night. We were never huge partiers. We were in Budapest at 9 p.m. [and said] “I guess at some point we need to go back to get him in bed.” There needs to be a market for local babysitters so you can go out one night a week.
Since I’m getting older, there are changes I’d do anyways. We are very last minute especially me. We will book accommodation advance now and less spur of the month.
9. Share two of your favorite travel hacking tips.
The thing that has changed my life the most is just understanding how to use mile and points. Getting a good travel rewards card. Understanding how it works and how those points work. Just starting with one [card] and earning those points, then using them once [is the best way to start.]
One of the things we started doing is giving chocolates to flight attendants. I called it a trick but its’s more of a thing I just like to do. We bring chocolates for flight attendants. I make sure there’s enough for everyone on the plane. I give them to the flight attendants when I get on the plane. I say thanks for taking care of us. I appreciate it. All of it is true. That always puts a smile on their face. We’ve got upgraded to business class before because of it. They’ll come and give you free drinks. They are always super nice. It can never hurt to make the flight attendants day better.
I always pack in a carry on. We both always pack in a carry on. To me, only using a carry on eliminates a lot of stress [worrying] “Is my luggage going to get lost?” We only use carry-ons 90% of the time. Now, we might have to check a crib. We don’t have to pay baggage fees.
Travis and Heather spent a lot of time traveling around Asia when they lived in Japan and snapped this shot at Angkor Wat in Cambodia. They like to avoid spending the winter in Philly so they are heading to Mexico in January. (Photo courtesy of Travis Sherry)
10. What is your next adventure?
Our next adventure is January and February we will be spending in Mexico. We will be spending two months in Mexico to avoid the winter. We don’t have anything on the calendar yet for next year. If I never spend January and February in Philly again, I’d be fine with this.
This idea for living somewhere for two months. It’s not so much to travel to region. It’s to live there and get work done, but just be in a better place than Philly in winter.
For more travel hacking tips from Travis Sherry, visit ExtraPackofPeanuts.com, listen to Travis’ podcast and follow him on Instagram, Twitter and YouTube.
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*Please note some Amazon affiliate links are included above. If you click on the link and make any type of purchase, I earn a small commission with no additional cost to you. I hope you found this post helpful and appreciate your support of the blog. Please email me if you have questions.
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COMING UP NEXT
Travel Gift Ideas
2018 has been a year of big adventures for me and Alfred, the globetrotting gnome! Here’s a few ideas (big and small) to help you find the perfect gifts for friends and family. Feel free to add these to your own Christmas list for Santa!
Photo Guide to the Havasu Falls Hike
I got up early to do a long exposure of Havasu Falls at sunrise without all the people.
A Photo Guide to the Havasu Falls Hike
Last October, I was having lunch in Santa Fe with three friends and eating my weight in sopapillas. By the end of lunch, we set plan for one of the best hiking trips of my life. It started almost as a joke like most of my crazy adventures, but I was determined to make it happen.
Our goal was simple—to hike to Havasu Falls, a stunning blue green waterfall located in the Grand Canyon on the Havasupai Indian Reservation in Arizona. We set a date for the trip, my friends requested the time off work on their phones right there at the lunch table and we made a plan – May 2018. The only thing standing in our way was the permit.
A long exposure of the small rapids at the foot of Havasu Falls at sunrise.
How to Get a Permit for Havasu Falls Hike
The hardest part about hiking to Havasu Fall is getting one of the elusive campground permits, which usually sell out in less than three hours each year. (The campground only accommodates 300 people and no day hikes are allowed. Permits go on sale on February 1st MST each year. Reservations are made by phone (928-448-2121) or online at https://www.havasupaireservations.com.
Three of the people in my group called the instant the permits went on sale but only got a busy signal. (I was in South America so I couldn’t call.) We all tried getting through on the website with no luck initially. I was using Safari as my web browser. Then, I opened a new browser window in Chrome and was able to get through! This was only a few minutes after they went on sale. Our first choice of dates wasn’t available so we shifted our hike back by a day.
Before permits go on sale, be sure to have a set list of dates along with several alternatives for your hike. It’s really important to be communicating with your hiking buddies the day they are released. The person who gets through needs to pay for everyone in the group. You need to include two names on the reservation. One of these people must show their ID at the office. If you have a friend who is flakey, DON’T put their name down.
Camping/Accomdation Prices for Havasu Falls
[Please note these are the 2018 prices. 2019 prices haven’t been announced yet.]
One Person, 2 Days / 1 Night: $140.56
One Person, 3 Days / 2 Nights: $171.12
One Person, 4 Days / 3 Nights: $201.67
There is a surcharge of $18.34/night for weekends (Friday through Sunday) and holiday weekdays nights including Spring Break.
Havasupai Lodge
If camping isn’t your style, you can stay at the Havasupai Lodge. These reservations are even harder to get than the campground. Lodge reservations go on sale every year on June 1st for the following year. I don’t recommend the lodge because it’s a good hour hike away from Havasu Falls. Plus, the people I met said it wasn’t worth the price ($145/night plus $40 per person for permit).
For more information, visit http://theofficialhavasupaitribe.com or call 928-448-2121. Office hours are 9 a.m. – 3 p.m. MST on weekdays. It’s very hard to get a person on the phone, but the earlier you call in the day, the more likely someone will answer.
A long exposure of Havasu Falls
When to Go to Havasu Falls
My friends and I hiked in May, which is what I recommend. It wasn’t too hot during the day and the nights weren’t cold. The water in the falls was cold but still okay for swimming. The monsoon season runs from June to September 30th. The monsoon is no joke–a July flood closed the campground and trail until September 1st this year! The temperatures during the day soar over 100 degrees Fahrenheit in the summer months.
If you go during the winter months, it will be too cold to swim. The campgrounds area closed during December and January. Peak season is March through October. Avoid hiking during the heat of the day. I recommend hiking in at sunrise and out early in the morning. (We hiked in at 6 a.m. and started hiking out at 3 a.m.)
How to Get to Havasu Falls
The view from Hualapi Hilltop, the starting point from the Havasu Falls trek in Arizona, overlooks a string of well-worn hiking trails. The trail begins with a series of switchbacks before flatting out in Hualapai Canyon below.
Hualapai Hilltop Trailhead
The trailhead is located 68 miles from Route 66 near the tiny “town” of Peach Springs, Arizona. It takes a good hour or more to drive from Peach Springs to the trailhead. The night before our hike, we stayed at the Hualapai Lodge, the only hotel in Peach Springs. It’s roughly $150/night, which we split four ways. (To save $25 off your reservation, use this referral for Booking.com to book the reservation!)
We woke up at 2:30 a.m. to pack and drive to the trailhead. The tiny parking lot was already filled and cars were parked along the side of the road! By the time we parked and got organized, it was nearly 6 a.m. The sun was over the rim of the canyon by 7:30 a.m. (This was in early May.)
The trail drops roughly 1,500 feet in the first 1.5 miles through a series of switchbacks. We made it to the bottom of the switchbacks in 45 minutes after stopping to take a lot of photos. The trail is mostly flat the rest of the way with only a slight decrease in elevation.
After the switchbacks, you enter Hualapai Canyon. This area is exposed so it will be brutal in the summer months and dangerous during the monsoon season due to flash flooding. Check the weather and plan accordingly. Start hiking before sunrise to avoid the heat of the day.
Overall, the path is easy to follow. There’s one main well-worn path with a few that branch off here and there. But, the ones that branch off meet back up with the main path fairly quickly. There will be plenty of other hikers as well so it’s rare to get lost unless you miss the sign below.
The most important and only sign on the trek is the one located where Havasu Canyon meets Hualapai Canyon.
The most important part of the trail is to be sure to turn left when you see the wooden sign in the photo above. This is where Hualapai Canyon meets Havasu Canyon. Once you turn left, you follow the creek until you cross over a bridge to the other side to enter the village. It took us 20 minutes to walk from the sign to the village.
Supai Village (Mile 8)
A helicopter leaves Supai Village on the Havasu Falls trek in Arizona. From March to October, the helicoptor operates four days a week from 10 a.m. to 1 p.m.
We reached the village at mile eight, spent about an hour walking around and picked up our permit from the tourist office, a green building on the left that you can’t miss. It’s a good idea to bring a print out of your permit. Be sure to pick up the maps and other helpful information they give you. The town was surprisingly large for such a remote place. There’s a helicopter landing pad for those who don’t want to hike in.
From the office, it was about an hour (two miles) to the campground. The path is marked clearly through town. Follow the main (and only) road then turn left at the church to continue on the path.
Navajo Falls & Fifty Foot Falls (Mile 8-9)
Fifty Foot Falls is located just outside of the village of Supai
The first waterfall after the village is Navajo Falls. It’s off the trail slightly so it’s easy to miss. It’s nice but not as dramatic as the others in the park. It’s 300 yards up from Fifty Foot Falls. Refer to the maps you were given at the tourist office.
Havasu Falls (Mile 10)
The first view hikers see of Havasu Falls is from trail above the falls.
The star of the hike is Havasu Falls, which is two miles from the village. You can’t miss it because the trail passes right beside it. There’s a small trail that takes you to the base of the falls that’s a little steep. It’s best to take photos from the top, go drop off your backpack in the campground then go back for photos at the foot of the falls.
All of the waterfalls are part of Havasu Creek, which is fed by a natural spring. The turquoise color is the result of the water being stored underground for thousands of years. The water absorbs minerals from the limestone, which reflect sunlight to create the turquoise color.
Campground
The campground is huge and covers both sides of the creek.
The campground is surprisingly large and spread across both sides of the creek. There’s plenty of trees for putting up a hammock. There are picnic tables spread around the grounds. We choose a spot by the entrance by two picnic tables that was near the bathrooms. It was a quiet spot yet close to the falls for easy access for photography. The spring for drinking water is closer to the front of the campgrounds but easily accessible. It took us five hours to hike to the campground from the trailhead and less than four hours to hike out. (We stopped to take a ton of photos on the way in and spent an hour in the town.)
Mooney Falls
The trek to the base of Mooney Fall is an adrenaline-pumping adventure of shimming down 200 feet on ladders ropes and chains.
Mooney Falls is the tallest of all the waterfalls in the park. The top of the falls lies at the far edge of the campground. The climb down to the base of Mooney Falls isn’t for the timid. It’s a 200-foot drop through a small cave followed by series of ladders and chains that are perpetually wet from the mist from the falls. This is a very scary and potentially dangerous climb. There’s often two-way traffic so you are passing people. Make sure both of your hands are free and your pack is as light as possible. Wear your hiking boots—no flipflops or sandals! For a visual idea of the climb down, watch my “Southwest Road Trip” Instagram story to see the whole process.
Beaver Falls
A birds-eye view of Beaver Falls, which is two miles from the base of Mooney Falls.
Beaver Falls is the most remote of the waterfalls. It lies three miles from Mooney Falls. (You have to climb down to the base of Mooney Falls to get to the trail to Beaver Falls.) In some ways, this is the trickiest hike, but the trail is fairly easy to follow. You have to cross the river three times so wear water shoes or be prepared to take your boots off multiple times. The trail can spilt a bit at the water crossings, but the other trails only lead to other crossings that join the same trail. (Again, you are in a canyon so you can’t get that lost due to the canyon walls.)
A lone, giant palm tree marks the path to Beaver Falls. There’s a ladder on the right on the other side of the cave that leads to a path overlooking the falls.
Once you reach the lone palm tree, there’s a small cave with a ladder on the right. Climbing the ladder takes you to a view of the falls from above. You can then climb down to the base of the falls from there. You can reach the top of the falls by wading through the water and climbing over rocks but you will be soaked. If you have camera gear that’s not waterproof, take the trail that goes left by the palm tree to reach the top of the falls.
Beaver Falls is huge. You’ll pass a small waterfall on the way—this is not Beaver Falls. Keep on going until the palm tree! It took us two hours to hike from Beaver Falls back to the base of Mooney Falls. The trail is very exposed so start early in the day to avoid the intense sun!
Tips for Havasu Falls Hike
Our hiking crew (left to right): Sean, Bear, Rolando and myself. I would hike anywhere in the world with these guys!
- Stay at least two nights to make the most of the waterfalls.
- No drones are allowed on the reservation
- Take a printed copy of your permit with you.
- Pack out your trash. People bring lots of inflatable pool floats that often get left behind. Don’t do this!
- There’s no cell phone service except a tiny bit in town. The town has WIFI.
- Watch out for mules being herded down the trail.
- We had no issues with any bugs or misquotes in May.
How hard is the hike?
Honestly, it wasn’t hard at all! It’s 10 miles total from the trail head to Havasu Falls and the campground. It’s another two miles to Beaver Falls, which you do with only a day pack. The hike into the falls is all downhill, but the hike out is uphill. The switchbacks at the end are steep, but if you go slow and steady, you’ll be fine. The weather is the only tricky part. Be sure to start hiking EARLY to avoid the heat since most of the hike is exposed without shade. If you do this, then you’ll be fine.
Food & Water
There’s a natural spring in the campground that’s safe to drink. If you have concerns, take a Sawyer MINI water filterwith you. There’s a café in the town of Supai and stalls that sell a bit of fry bread by the campgrounds. It’s better to bring your own food. Refer to packing list below for suggestions.
Bathrooms at Havasu
The toilets were amazing. They were compost toilets, but they were never smelly or dirty. Toilet paper was provided! There was no running water at the toilets, but they had hand sanitizer machines at the ones by the campground. (I’m writing this from Asia and dreaming about those nice Havasu toilets!)
Pack Mules & Helicopters
If you don’t want to hike, you can take a helicopter for $85/one-way to Supai Village. Then, hike two miles to Havasu Falls. You can also ride a pack mule into the village and/or have your luggage carried. It’s $242/roundtrip for a mule. Check with the office for weight limits. Reservations must be made one day in advance.
My pack weighed about 20 pounds including my DSLR camera and wide angle lens that weighed 7 pounds.
Summer Packing List for Havasu Falls Hike (Three days & two nights)*
(When it comes to multi-day hikes, I am a super minimal packer since I’m also carrying a DSLR camera that weights seven pounds. I literally hike in the same outfit every day. If you buy quality gear, it won’t smell and will dry quickly.)
- 34-liter Osprey Pack
- Three pairs of merino wool hiking socks
- One hiking outfit (I wore these Patagonia shorts and this Columbia SPF wicking shirt every day of the hike. Refer to photo above.)
- Three pairs of underwear (Only one sports bra)
- Bathing suit
- One sleeping outfit (I took a short sleeve wicking shirt and long tights)
- Sexy wide-brimmed hat
- Water shoes like Chacos or Keene sandals. (I didn’t pack any and was very jealous of everyone who did for the river crossings!)
- Full size quick-dry travel towel
- Two 32 oz. Nalgene water bottles (I normally prefer stainless steel Klean Kanteen bottle but don’t want the extra weight when I hike.)
- Sawyer Mini water filter (Just in case!)
- Lightweight sleeping pad and sleeping bag
- Ultra-lightweight tent
- Lightweight tripod (We used a Manfrotto 496RC2, which is similar to this one.)
- Camp stove
- Cooking Pot
- Travel spork
- Toiletries (toothbrush, mini contact solution, small toothpaste, biodegradable soap like Dr. Bronner’s)
- SPIBelt (I keep my phone in this waist belt so I have easy access to it on every hike!)
- Natural Sunscreen (I recommend chemical-free sunscreen that’s better for environment and your body!)
- Hand sanitizer
- Camera (I took my Nikon D800 with a 24-70 mm lens along with a polarizing filter and an extra battery. You definitely need a wide angle lens for this trip!)
The hiking breakfast of champions: tortillas and honey peanut butter squeeze packs
Food Suggestions:
- 5 honey peanut butter squeeze packs per person and one large pack of tortillas to spilt between everyone (Great for breakfast!)
- 4-6 granola bars per person depending your snacking habits (Rx Bars are the healthiest, but Luna Bars taste better. I took both kinds.)
- Salted nuts (You need the salt.)
- Dehydrated meals (two per day) [REI gives you 10% off if you buy 10 or more]
- 1 pack of Nuun Electrolyte tablets
Follow me on Instagram (@AnnaMazurekPhoto) to see more photos from Havasu Falls!
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*Please note some Amazon and REI affiliate links are included above. If you click on the link and make any type of Amazon/REI purchase, I earn a small commission with no additional cost to you. I hope you found this post helpful and appreciate your support of the blog. Please email me if you have questions.
Photo Guide to the Galapagos
Photo Guide to the Galapagos
The Galapagos was the highlight of my four-month trip to South America earlier this year was. Even though 220,000 visitor arrive each year, it’s still one of the most pristine environments in the world!
The string of 13 volcanic islands lie 1000 kilometers from mainland Ecuador. Despite being located directly on the equator, the islands aren’t tropical partially due to cold ocean currents from Antarctica. Many islands look like Mars and are void of vegetation. Despite this, they are a haven for wildlife including birds, iguanas and a rich sea life. Many of the species are endemic; they are only found in the Galapagos. The most astounding part of the Galapagos is that the animals are all environmentally naïve meaning they don’t see humans as a predator. They don’t run from you, which makes it extremely easy to get amazing photos.
Five of the islands are inhabited including the two main tourist hubs of Isla Santa Cruz and San Cristobal. Visitors are only allowed to visit official visitor sites and must be accompanied by a naturalist (a trained guide) to visit all uninhabited islands and most locations aside from the main cities. Boats are not allowed to visit the same site twice in a two-week period. Most boat trips only cover a portion of the islands due to this, which is why I only went to eight islands during my trip.
I’ve complied a detailed photo guide to my trip to the Galapagos organized by location along with helpful tips and a packing list
Day 1: San Cristobal Island
View of Puerto Baquerizo Moreno from the water. San Cristobal, Galapagos
I flew into San Cristobal, which is the only island with fresh water and an airport in town. It’s the seat of the Galapagos and has the second largest population after Santa Cruz. It’s popular day trip destination.
We did an afternoon boat ride through the main harbor at Puerto Baquerizo Moreno, which is a haven for sea lions. They are literally all over the harbor and even benches in the town. They’ve become a nuisance as well for boats parked in the harbor. The island has two nice white sand beaches and a freshwater lake at 700 meters above sea level.
Day 2: Espanola
Espanola is one of my favorite islands. If you love birds or sea lions, then this is your island. Gardner Bay is one of the most stunning beaches in the Galapagos. The long white sandy beach is literally covered with sleeping sea lions. There’s also a good population of marine iguanas.
The marine iguanas on Espanola are the most colorful in the Galapagos and are often referred to as “Christmas Iguanas.”
Marine iguanas are thought to have reached the Galapagos on rafts of vegetation from continental South America.
There’s a two-kilometer long trail starting at Punta Suàrez that weaves through colonies of Nazca and blue-footed boobies. There’s a blow-hole along the path as well. The waved albatross is one of the unique and main features of the island. These large, monogamous birds have a long, curved beak and mate on the island usually between December and March. This year the rains came late this year so they had not started mating yet when we arrived in early April. We saw many of them flying but none on the ground so I only have photos of an albatross flying.
The waved albatross, also known as the Galapagos albatross, has the longest wing span of any bird in the Galapagos.
The waved albatross and Nazca boobies soar above the cliffs of Espanola island near the saltwater blowhole.
A brown pelican hunts for fish off of Gardner Bay on Espanola Island.
The colorful Sally Lightfoot Crabs were on every island we visited in the Galapagos.
Day 3: Floreana & Post Office Bay
We saw a lot of blue footed boobies nesting and mating just by the boat landing spot on Floreana. The males were doing the mating dance and bringing sticks for the nest. There is a lagoon here with a chance of seeing flamingos, but there aren’t many flamingos. Sadly, they were too far away for photos.
Blue-footed boobies show off their feet to impress their mates. The bluer their feet, the more attractive they are to females.
The blue-footed boobies have an oil gland in the back of their body. They use their beaks to spread the oil to waterproof their feathers.
The male blue-footed booby performs a mating dance for the female. The Galapagos account for half of all breeding grounds for the birds.
Post Office Bay is an old mailing stop for whalers in the 18th century.
Post Office Bay was once a functioning mail stop for American and British whalers in the 18th century. Now, it’s a spot for tourists to leave postcards in a barrel in hopes that another traveler will pick them up and hand deliver them to the address. I picked up two. One is in Texas that I hand delivered and slid into the gate of a fancy house. The other is near my hometown, but it’s farther than I thought so I’ll probably cheat and mail it. One of the two postcards I left was mailed. The other has yet to arrive!
The bay is an excellent spot to paddleboard and kayak. I did both and LOVED it. There were tons of sea turtles and great sea life. Paddle boarding is really easy at every single spot in the Galapagos.
Day 4: Santa Cruz
These baby tortoises are part of the breeding program at the Darwin Center on Santa Cruz island in the Galapagos. They are labeled by number and released in the wild once they reach a certain age.
Puerto Ayora is the main hub on Santa Cruz island and home to a population of 18,000 making it the largest town in the Galapagos. It’s home to the Charles Darwin Research Center, which is famous for its giant tortoise breeding program. There’s a plethora of outdoor pins with various ages of tortoises and an air-conditioned facility where you can view the preserved body of Lonesome George, the last member of the Isla Pinta subspecies. I didn’t find the center to be very photogenic or interesting from a photography standpoint.
The resident sea lion at the fish market was one of my favorite parts of Santa Cruz.
My favorite part of the island was the tiny fish market. There’s a resident sea lion that hangs out next to the women gutting the fish along with a few pelicans. Apparently, the sea lion was abandoned and raised by the people at the fish market. It’s a great thing to photograph. Santa Cruz is also the best place to do your souvenir shopping.
Two giant tortoises with guava fruit on their faces stare each other down after a fight.
Giant tortoises can be observed in the wild at El Chato Tortoise Reserve on Santa Cruz.
Be sure to wear long pants and rubber boots when wandering through the wildlife preserve to photograph the giant tortoises.
A lava tube cave near El Chato Tortoise Reserve
Day 5: Santa Cruz & Daphne
Cerro Dragon on Santa Cruz island
On the northwestern corner of Santa Cruz island is Cerro Dragon, which has a 1.75 km trail that offers a great chance to see colorful land iguanas en route to a small hill with nice views.
The land iguanas were much larger than the marine iguanas. We saw a handful on our hike.
I visited Islas Daphne, which consist of two islands – Daphne Major and Daphne Minor. The island is home to both blue-footed boobies and Nazca boobies. The island is tricky to visit due to the landing. You have to disembark the boat onto rocks then climb steep stairs. I found this really easy since my boat tour had staff to assist with the landing. Another highlight of this island was the school of baby black tip sharks and rays swimming near the beach!
A pair of blue-footed boobies
Brown Galapagos Pelican
Day 6: Bartoleme & Sombero Chino
The famous view from Isla Bartolemé
Chances are you’ve seen the iconic panoramic view from Isla Bartolemé. A wooden boardwalk weaves through a volcanic landscape toward a 375-foot summit that offers a sweeping peak of the white sand cover below. The coolest part of the island was snorkeling in the area. One of the penguins jumped into the water like a torpedo! There were a few other sets of penguins along the coast that we were able to photography from our boats. It was one of the coolest snorkeling days on the trip! (I don’t have any type of underwater camera so I have no photos from snorkeling.)
Here are some of my favorite Galapagos penguin images:
Sombero Chino is a conical shaped island that looks like the “Chinese hat” the island is named after. The island is tiny but offers a short trail offers access to snorkeling/swimming options. Animal life includes sea lions and a marine iguana colony.
Sombero Chino shot from our boat.
Day 7: Genovesa
Genovea is a bird-lovers dream. It’s the best spot to view red-footed boobies and the equally photogenic frigatebirds—the males are known for their bright red featherless throats that they inflate during mating season to attract females. It’s one of my favorite islands next to Espanola. An added perk is that you cross the equator to reach the island!
Nazca boobies, Genovesa island
There’s two main sites to visit on the island—Darwin Bay Beach, a coral beach with a 750 meter trail that winds through a hot spot of bird breeding grounds. The Prince Phillip steps are the other site. This is a dry landing that starts with a few steep steps and a one kilometer trail that leads inland. It’s a great spot to see short-eared owls, which we were lucky of enough to see. It was too far away for a decent photo though!
These are a few of my favorite frigatebird photos below:
Red-footed bobbies (left) and Nazca boobies (right) both use Genovesa island for mating.
A baby Nazca booby
When to Go to the Galapagos
December through May is the warmest time of the year and the rainy season. Expect a daily drizzle or two. There is less fish this time of year, but it’s the best time to see turtles nesting on beaches. It’s also mating season for sea lions, birds and land tortoises so they will be very active.
The weather is sunny (averaging 85 F) with occasional showers. Seas and winds are calm.
As the weather cools, the water gets choppier from Humboldt current that comes from Antarctica from June to December. Birds and sea mammals are the most active in the dry season. It’s best for marine life if you dare to plunge into the cold water. The plus side is that the cold water brings a higher chance of penguins sighting.
Seas are rough from July to October. During the dry season (June-December), the weather is cool and misty. Peak seasons coordinate with school vacations – mid-June to early September and mid-December to mid-January. Those prone to seasickness should visit when the water is calmer from February through April.
Snorkeling
I photographed a school of black tip sharks from our boat while we were heading to shore one day.
The water was in the low 70s F while I was there, which is the warmest of the year. I still needed a wet suit and after about 45 minutes, I had to get out of the water because I’m super cold natured. We saw a lot of white tip sharks during our daily snorkeling trips. Some were of a substantial size, which freaked me out but the naturalists weren’t concerned. Other snorkeling highlights included sea lions, sea turtles, rays and every type of fish you can imagine.
Galapagos Packing List*
Camera Gear
This is a list of the gear I took with me to the Galapagos along with a few suggested items.
- Nikon D800 Body (The D810 is the most current version of my camera)
- 24-70 mm f/2.8 lens: This was great for wide angle shots.
- 70-200 mm f/2.8 VR lens (This was the lens I used the most to get close to the animals. The only exception was for wide angled shots like the scenic view from Isla Bartolemé.)
- Circular Polarizer Filter: This is essentially to cut the glare from the sun on the water and the sky. At a 90-degree angle from the sun, this filter makes the sky appear bluer by bending the light. You’ll need a different one for each size lens or a step ring to use the same filter on another lens.
- Lens cloth: Your lens will fog when you step out of the air conditioning to the humidity. I advise going outside 15 minutes before you are supposed to depart for an island to let your lens can de-fog so you won’t miss any photos!
Packing Essentials:
- Eco-Friendly Toiletries & Sunscreen: Most ships will give you biodegradable toiletries. Be sure to only use natural sunscreen that’s free of Oxybenzone, a chemical that damages coral. Check out my post about 14 Easy Ways to be an Eco-friendly Traveler for more ideas!
- SPF Clothing: I packed my trusty Columbia button-down wicking/SPF hiking shirt that I bought for Kilimanjaro. It was a lifesaver!
- Hiking pants: Consider packing hiking pants that either zip into shorts or roll up into capris. I love the prAna halle style hiking pants.
- Quick-dry shorts: I LOVE these Patagonia shorts I bought last year. They dry super fast and are perfect for hikes!
- Wide-brimmed Hat: Every single staff member on the ships is covered from head to toe from the sun. You should do the same. Again, I packed my silly but amazing wide-brimmed REI hat. This was yet another purchase from my Kilimanjaro trek that’s still useful!
- Dry Sacks: Since we traveled by boat everywhere, I had a dry sack handy for my camera on the boat trips just in case.
Things I didn’t pack but wish I had:
- Longer zoom lens: A 70-400 mm would have really helped with the animals. Even a much cheaper 300 mm lens would have helped!
- GoPro or underwater camera: I missed out on underwater photos but I just can’t justify dropping $300 + on a GoPro just for a 10-day trip. I booked last minute so I didn’t have time to borrow a friend’s, which is what I normally would have done. My friend’s GoPro Hero 5 was great on our Havasu Falls trip. I wish I’d had it for the Galapagos!
- Long-sleeve rash guard with UV protection: I was jealous of every person who had one especially when we were snorkeling!
- Water shoes: I managed with flip-flops and hiking boots. I did envy all the people in basic cheap Crocs, Chacos and Keen sandals who didn’t have to sit on the beach and dry their feet off before changing shoes.
*Please note some Amazon and REI affiliate links are included above. If you click on the link and make any type of Amazon/REI purchase, I earn a small commission with no additional cost to you. I hope you found this post helpful and appreciate your support of the blog. Please email me if you have questions.
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COMING UP NEXT
I head to Mongolia next week, which means more CAMEL photos! Follow along with my adventure on Instagram at @AnnaMazurekPhoto. I won’t be posting again until the end of August or early September. I’ve got a lot of posts I’m working on including Havasu Falls, Cuidad Perdida, my favorite London neighborhoods & Prague!
14 Easy Ways to Be an Eco-Friendly Traveler
Horseshoe Bend near Page, Arizona
Next month, I’ll visit my 50th country and will have 51 by the end of the summer. During the last decade of nonstop travel, there’s so many amazing moments that I’ll never forget and others I wish I could forget including the horrific amount of pollution I’ve seen during my adventures.
Every time I see a plastic bag I remember that field outside Uyuni, Bolivia that was covered in a blanket of plastic. The bags were snagged on bushes and fluttering in the wind like a tattered flag. I know I can’t solve the problem on my own, but this post is another way for me to help and raise awareness. This post was inspired by my recent trip to the Galapagos and by National Geographic’s June 2018 cover story that focuses on the dangers and growing epidemic of plastic pollution.
The NPR program On Point recently interviewed the author of the National Geographic story, which you can listen to here.
Ha Long Bay is one of Vietnam’s stunning sights. Half of the world’s “mismanaged” plastic waste comes from five Asian countries including Vietnam according to National Geographic.
The Facts
It’s easy to say that plastic is evil, but that’s not entirely true. Plastic saves lives in many forms – air bags, medical devices and water filters. It’s the single-use plastics that are causing the pollution epidemic that’s tainting the oceans and killing wildlife. Plastic bags are one of the main culprits. Many animals especially turtles often mistake plastic for jellyfish, one of their main food sources. A pilot whale in Thailand recently died because it starved to death due from 17 pounds of plastic in its stomach, which included 80 plastic shopping bags.
A few highlights from the National Geographic story:
- Roughly, 5.3 -14 million tons of unrecycled plastic ends up in the ocean each year.
- Plastic can take 450 years to biodegrade. Some items will never biodegrade.
- 40% of the plastic produced every year is disposable
- Only 10% of the plastic in the U.S. is recycled
- Less than 1/5 of all plastic is recycled worldwide
- Five countries in Asia are responsible for half of the world’s “mismanaged” plastic waste: China, Indonesia, Vietnam, Philippines and Sri Lanka
- Greenpeace states that litterbugs and large companies like Unilever and Nestle who promote the use of single-use plastics are the main culprits
- Public calls for action are swaying the minds of major corporations like Coca-Cola, PepsiCo, Amcor and Unilever to make environmentally friendly changes to the products/polices
Khardung La is located in the Ladakh region of India and is one of the places where plastic bags have been banned.
Plastic Bag Bans
Many countries have banned plastic bags including Italy, Bangladesh, China and parts of Africa including the Congo, Rwanda, South Africa and Kenya, which has the most drastic ban. In the U.S a few states (North Carolina and Hawaii) and large cities have done the same including San Francisco, Los Angles, Austin (my current home base) and Portland. States in rural India and Australia have also joined the movement.
Changing your habits and pressuring big companies to produce more eco-friendly products is a good way to ensure the oceans stay as pristine as Jokulsarlon Glacier Lagoon in Iceland.
14 Ways You Can Help
I’ve compiled a list of easy ways to help the environment both in your hometown and during your travels. By making these changes in your life, you can inspire others to do the same by leading by example. Most of these tips will also save you money, which is an added bonus! Plus, the products mentioned are all less than $20!
Bare Republic natural sunscreen is sold at Target and available on Amazon. I use both the liquid and the SPF stick pictured.
1. Natural Sunscreen
Chemical sunscreens are one the main causes of coral reef bleaching and are set to be banned in Hawaii’s Waikiki Beach by 2021.The main culprit is the FDA-approved chemical Oxybenzone. The UVA and UVB absorbing chemical has also been linked to breast cancer and birth defects. The best alternative are natural sunscreens with zinc and titanium dioxide, which are better for the ocean and your body. These natural sunscreens are very easy to find and often most children’s sunscreen only contain these ingredients. I’ve been using Bare Republic’s natural sunscreen, which has zinc and titanium dioxide for the past few years. You can buy it at Amazon and Target. It smells really nice and goes on pretty clear.
2. Biodegradable Soap
I’m a huge fan of Dr. Bronner’s Pure-Castile Soap. This multipurpose soap is biodegradable, efficient and smells amazing! It’s made with organic oils and natural ingredients. It’s a very concentrated formula so a little goes a long way. It’s sold in both liquid and bar forms with various scents like peppermint and lavender. It’s a super handy thing to have when traveling. I’ve used it as dish soap and laundry detergent. There are other types of biodegradable soap so choose the kind that’s best for you!
The Sawyer MINI water filter has saved me hundreds of dollars. It’s lightweight, easy to pack and clean.
If you are visiting a country where the tap water isn’t safe to drink, filter your own water instead of buying bottled water. Many developing countries don’t have the infrastructure to recycle or even handle the waste from plastic water bottles. Asia accounts for a large amount of plastic in the ocean. Don’t add to the epidemic! Buy a water filter. For the past five years, I’ve used the Sawyer MINI water filter across the world including Mexico, Tanzania and Bolivia. It works everywhere except for places that have heavy metals in the water. This filter alone has saved me hundreds of dollars during my travels and saves the environment from plastic. It costs roughly $20.
4. No Plastic Straws
Single use plastics are the number one cause of plastic pollution and 50% of them are made in the U.S. Avoid using straws at restaurants. If you have medical needs or have children, use an alternative paper or metal straws that are much more environmentally friendly. Many restaurants are even making the switch to only offer straws by request!
Klean Kateen is the best insulated stainless steel water bottle on the market. (No offense to YETI, but there bottles are too bulky and don’t have good travel lids.)
5. Reusable Water Bottle
On my Galapagos boat trip, everyone was given a reusable stainless steel water bottle to use during the trip. I personally love and prefer my insulated Klean Kateen water bottle that I’ve had for years. It cost $20, and I’ve had it for years. While BPA-free plastic Nalgene water bottles are lighter weight and great or hiking, the stainless steel ones are easier to sanitize with hot water. I use Nalgene’s for long hikes and insulated stainless steel bottles for everything else.
6. Reduce Paper Usage
Avoid picking up brochures and physical guidebooks. Opt for digital copies or photograph a brochure instead taking one with you. Most tourist brochures are available online. Download offline maps using Google maps or Maps.me (my favorite GPS map app!). If you do need paper products, then recycle them properly.
I LOVE this reusable llama bag from BAGGU. They are only $10 but I got mine on sale for $8 at Christmas. They have solid colors and other funky animal prints besides llamas.
7. Reusable Shopping Bags
I live in Austin, Texas where plastic bags are banned. You either bring your own bag or buy a reusable one at the register. Why is this not a national law? I keep a reusable Baggu shopping bag in my purse always and always travel with it. It’s lightweight and can hold up to 50 pounds! I also have a bag of reusable bags in the truck of my car for large shopping trips.
What if you forget your reusable bags?
My parents live in a small town outside of Columbia, SC. It’s been a nightmare trying to get them to switch to reusable bags. My mom’s main excuse: I always forget my bags. If you forget them, then go back to your car and get them like I do. After a while, it’ll be a habit, and you’ll never forget them. If I do forget mine, I checkout and put my items back in the cart then take the cart to my car and bag everything myself at my car.
8. Don’t Buy Plastic Q-Tips
There’s an alarming photo of a sea horse swimming with a pink plastic cotton swap on page 47 of the June issue of National Geographic. The good news is that Johnson & Johnson, who produces the Q-Tip brand, has committed to switching back to all paper stems in the coming years. If you buy store brand cotton swabs like I do, only buy the paper! I’ve been doing this for years, and it’s worth the extra few cents!
I’m a fan of these lightweight dry sacks for everyday use. I use this for my camera just in case it starts to rain and keep it in my backpack along with my rain covers. The ultra-light dry sacks rip too easily and the thick ones are too rigid because they are meant for rafting trips.
Ziploc bags are the thing I struggle to stop using. They are so useful at times for food and packing especially for wet items. Dry sacks are the best eco-friendly alternative for Ziplocs when you have wet things or want to prevent things from getting wet. I also started packing reusable plastic-lined toiletry bags. I’m using several now that I randomly found at my parent’s house. I bought the13 liter lightweight Sea to Summit dry sack in the photo earlier this year for $20 at REI.
These reusable toiletry bottles are only a few dollars at Target. Simply refill them with your normal shampoo or conditioner.
10. Avoid Single-Use Plastic Packaging
Buy items in bulk sizes to reduce plastic waste. Travel with bar soap instead of liquid. Use reusable toiletry bottles when you travel. Avoid plastic plates or cups. Consider getting camping plates or BPA-free reusable camping sporks for your travels. Support companies that use packaging made from recycled or environmentally friendly materials.
11. Pyrex or BPA-Free Plastic Food Containers
I flew to Boston last weekend with a sandwich in my carryon in a Rubbermaid BPA-free reusable plastic sandwich container. I try more and more in my daily life and travels to avoid plastic bags especially Ziplocs. When I pack my lunch for work or road trips, I always used glass Pyrex containers or BPA-free reusable plastic containers. Both are inexpensive and easy to find.
Buying locally from farmer’s markets like this one at the Granville Island Market in Vancouver, Canada is a great way to support the local economy and reduce fuel usage needed to transport food.
12. Eat Locally
Avoid eating at chain restaurants when traveling. Eating locally cuts the cost of transit and supports local communities. Plus, the food is fresher and less likely to be processed.
13. Recycle & Conserve Resources
Most places have recycling services or bins on the street. Keep an eye out and use them as much as possible. Earlier this year, I rented an apartment for a month in Buenos Aires, which didn’t have recycling in the building so I collected my recycling and took it to the recycle bins on the street myself. Bring your own toiletries like the earth-friendly ones listed above instead of tiny ones at hotels. Reuse your towels and cut off the lights/air conditioning when you leave the room. (If the idea of cutting off the a/c completely scares you, then turn it up to at least conserve energy.) Do all the things you would do if you were paying the utility bill.
14. Take Public Transport
If public transit is a safe method of transport when you are at home or abroad, use it! By using public transport, you are reducing your carbon footprint and minimizing traffic congestion on highways.
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I am not sponsored by any of the brands or products mentioned above. I have used all the products myself and found them extremely helpful. Please note some Amazon and REI affiliate links are included above. If you click on the link and make any type of Amazon/REI purchase, I earn a small commission with no additional cost to you. I hope you found this post helpful and appreciate your support of the blog. Please email me if you have questions.
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COMING UP NEXT
Photo Guide to the Galapagos
I will continue the eco-friendly theme with my next post about the Galapagos Islands, one of the most pristine environments in the world. This will be a photo heavy post focused on the wildlife and various highlights to the oldest islands in the Galapagos!
A Photo Guide to Easter Island
Ahu Tongaraki is normally a popular sunset spot on Easter Island, but I prefer to photograph it in the late afternoon when the light highlights the detail in the moai statues.
This day could not be more perfect— blues skies, windows down and Jack Johnson on the radio.
The view is stunning—steep cliffs lined with moai statues hover over the Pacific Ocean. I slow the car down to let the wild horses cross the road. The tiny island is one of the most remote and unique places on the planet. It lies in the middle of the Pacific 2,290 miles from mainland Chile; the nearest inhabited island is 1,150 miles away. It’s only 14 miles wide and with an extinct volcano at each end of the island.
The history of Easter Island, known as Rapi Nui to the natives, is turbulent. Polynesians first discovered the island between the 4th and 8th century. They built the famous towering moai statues on top of stone platforms called ahu. Tribal wars irrupted over land, and statues were toppled. A lack of resources from slash and burn agriculture techniques among other factors led to massive deforestation, which is still present today. The Dutch arrived on Easter day in 1722 and named it Easter Island, which is called Isla de Pascua in Spanish.
The island’s airport is the most remote in the world and has a fascinating history. It was built by the U.S. Air Force in 1966, which opened the island to tourism. The runway was later widened by NASA as an abort site for the space shuttle allowing larger jets to land.
Rising seas, erosion and climate change are a major threat to the tiny island and make it important than ever to visit NOW. Check out my detailed photo guide to the top sites including photography tips, logistics, costs and budget tips! This was one of my favorite parts of my four-month South America trip! Keep reading for my favorite things to do on Easter Island along with photo tips.
A series of trails wind through Rano Ranaku, the quarry where all the statues were made.
History of the Moai Statues on Easter Island
Easter Island is famous for all the moai statues—gigantic carved figures made of volcanic rock lined up on platforms called ahus. The statues represent the ancestors of the Rapi Nui people and once overlooked a village site. Some statues have hats or topknots called pukao that resemble the hairstyle of the natives. All of the moai that are standing have been restored.
For a good history lesson, watch the NOVA PBS documentary on Easter Island before you go. It’s available on PBS and YouTube.
Anakana was the sight of the first settlement on Easter Island, known as Rapi Nui to the native people. It’s the only white sand beach on the volcanic island.
Rapa Nui National Park Tickets for Easter Island
The majority of the sites on Easter Island are part of Rapa Nui National Park. A ticket is required at every major site. Tickets are $80 or 54,000 Chilean pesos and available at the airport. Check the current exchange rate to see which is best. I saved $9 buy paying in USD. Tickets are valid for 10 days. You can only visit Ranu Raraku and Orongo Ceremonial Village once per ticket. The other sites allow multiple entries. You can pay by credit card but only in pesos. No drones are allowed on the island.
Park Hours
Rano Raraku, Orongo, Anakena, Tahai, Ahu Akivi
Monday & Wednesday 9:30 a.m. – 8 p.m.; Other days 9 a.m. – 8 p.m.
All other sites close at 6 p.m. and open at the same time above. Several of the sites are still visible from the road for photography outside these hours.
Wild horse roam at the base of the Rano Raraku volcanic crater.
Things to See on Easter Island
Hanga Roa
This is the only town on the island and it’s where all the accommodation, restaurants and nightlife are clustered. It’s also home to the anthropology museum, Museo Antropológico Sebastian Englert, which is the best place to start your trip to get an introduction to the culture and history. Admission is free.
Most tourism agencies, rental car centers and grocery stores are located along Avenue Atamu Tekena. There’s two banks in town with currency exchange ange ATMs. (Banco Estadio & Banco Santander). We used the Santander ATMs and had no issues with our Visa debit cards.
There’s a small swimming area in the town called Playa Pea. There’s no proper beach, but it’s a good place to cool off. There are a few restored moai scattered around the edges of town but are not as grand as others on the island.
Ahu Akapu with Ahu Tahai in background. Both sites are walking distance from Hanga Roa.
Ahu Tahai & Ahu Akapu
On the coast north of Hanga Roa is Ahu Tahai, which supports five moai. There’s a lone moai with eyes on the adjacent cliff, Ahu Akapu. It’s a very popular sunset spot and an easy walk from town.
Best time for photography: Sunset for a silhouette photo or early morning when the light highlights the details in the statues.
The gates at Ahu Tongariki opened just before sunrise, and there was a crowd of about 25 people waiting. The site is huge so it didn’t feel overcrowded when I visited in March. Crowds might be more of an issue in the peak season (Dec. to Feb.).
Ahu Tongariki
The most popular sunrise spot is Ahu Tongariki, the largest ahu on the island with 15 statues. The scenery behind the 15 statues is breathtaking – the towering cliffs of Peninsula Poike. The sunrises directly behind the statues providing the famous silhouette photo. The moai have their backs to the water and face the ruins of an old village site. There are some petroglyphs near the far end of the site by the road. I personally prefer going back here late in the afternoon when the details of the moai really stand out.
Best time for photography: Late afternoon or sunrise (silhouettes only)
Rano Ranaku is best photographed early in the morning or late in the afternoon to get the details in the statues. This was shot right after the site opened in the morning.
Rano Raraku
All of the moai on the island came from the quarry of Rano Raraku, known as the “nursery.” The sides of the gigantic volcanic crater are covered with moai in various stages of construction. It’s also home to a unique kneeling moai on the southeastern side.
Best time for photography: For good side light, late afternoon or morning is best. The only trouble is keeping people out of the frame. Keep your fingers crossed for a cloudy day!
Ahu Vaihu is one of many sites on the island that hasn’t been restored. All of the standing moan statues were restored starting in the 1960s.
Ahu Vaihu & Additional Sites on Southern Coast of Easter Island
Along the road to Ahu Tongariki, there’s several platforms with broken moai laying facedown. At Ahu Vinapu, one of the platforms has mortar-less blocks similar to the Inca ruins in Peru.
Best time for Photography: Late afternoon when the sun is shining on the statues.
Orongo Ceremonial Village lies on the edge of an extinct volcano on Easter Island.
Ranu Kau & Orongo Ceremonial Village
Stunning the best word to describe Orongo Ceremonial Village. It’s perched on the top edge of a crater lake called Ranu Kau and a cliff above the ocean. The walls of the short houses are made of stacks of thin stone slabs and offer views of small offshore islands. The village was the epicenter for an island-wide bird cult during the 18th and 19th centuries and features bird petroglyphs.
Orongo can be reached by car and is 4 kilometers from town. There’s also a short, direct hike from Hang Roa. There’s a viewpoint of the crater that’s accessible before you reach the village that doesn’t require a ticket.
The Ranu Kau crater is best photographed when the light is overhead. If you go too early or late in the day, there will be shadows along the edges like this photo which was taken early in the morning.
Best time for photography: The village faces west so afternoon or sunset light is best. The site is fairly empty by 6 p.m. The crater is best photographed in the afternoon or midday when the sun shines into the carter. If you wait too late, you’ll have dark shadows on the western side and center of the crater.
Ahu Nau Nau is the star attraction of Anakena beach. The platform is home to seven moai statues.
Anakena Beach, Easter Island
Anakena is the most photogenic spot on the island and the site of the first settlement. The white-sand beach is lined by palm trees that surround the main attraction – an ahu of seven moai with topknots known as Ahu Nau Nau. This set of moai statues has more topknots than any other restored ahu on the island. There’s another lone moai, Ahu Ature Huki, to the right. A handful of over-priced restaurants and bars line the eastern side of the beach. The crystal-clear waters are a great refuge from the heat.
Best time for photography: Afternoon or sunset. Since the moai face away from the ocean, you need to afternoon light to get good detail in faces of the statues.
The trail to Maunga Terevaka, the island’s highest point, is gorgeous and very easy.
Maunga Terevaka
Climbing to the top of Maunga Terevaka is the only way to really grasp the small size of the island. It is one of the three extinct volcanos and the tallest point on the island. From the top, you can see the ocean on all sides of the island. It’s accessible by foot or horseback. It’s a very easy walk, and the trail is obvious. Go at sunrise when it’s cool, and you’ll have the place to yourself. It took us a little more than an hour to climb stopping a lot for photos. The scenery on the way to the top is just as amazing as the view.
Best time for photography: Sunrise
Puna Pau
This volcanic quarry is the source of the red cylinder topknots that adorn the statues called pukao, which are thought to resemble the hairstyle worn by the native tribes. Over sixty pukaos were transported around the island and another 25 lie near or at the quarry.
Best time for photography: Late afternoon or early morning to get detail in the pukaos.
Ana Te Pahu Cave is the largest cave on the island.
Ahu Akivi & Ana Te Pahu Cave
These are the only moai that face the ocean, and the only ones not located along the coast. The seven moai on this ahu were restored in 1960 and have an astrological meaning. During the equinoxes, the statues directly face the setting sun. The trail to Maunga Terevaka starts at the edge of the parking lot.
If you turn left at the entrance to Ahu Akivi, there’s a road that leads to the entrance booth for Ana Te Pahu Cave. You must walk 15 minutes to the cave itself. It’s totally walkable from the parking lot of Ahu Akivi as well. It’s the largest cave on the island and over 7 kilometers long and overgrown with bananas and sweet potatoes.
Best time for photography: Late afternoon light shines directly on the statues and highlights the detail. I was always here in the mornings, and the light was pretty horrible.
The face of a moai statue lies on the ground on the rugged Northern Coast of Rapi Nui. The northern portion of the island has no roads and is very isolated.
North Coast
Hiking the Northern Coast is the best way to experience the REAL Easter Island. There are no roads leading to this section and none of the moai or sites have been restored. You pass several toppled moai, extensive amount of petroglyphs, stone houses and a few caves. Keep an eye out for the lone standing moai that’s hidden in one of ahus. The hike is fairly easy and takes roughly five to six hours. It starts near the Ana Te Pahu cave and ends at Anakena.
This moai statue on the Northern coast was lowered and hidden as part of the platform to prevent it from being toppled during tribal wars.
A guide is recommended since none of the locations are marked by signs, and there’s no real trail. Tour companies offer half-day hiking trips for around $200/person. Ask around for a local guide for a cheaper rate, which is how we got a guide for $80/person.
Petroglyphs are scattered all over the island. The best ones are along the untouched northern coast like this one above.
Papa Vaka Petroglyphs
These petroglyphs are located between Anakena and Ahu Tongariki. They are the easiest ones to reach but not as good as the ones along the remote Northern coast.
This isn’t a complete list of sites because there were a few sites we didn’t make it to because of weather. These are the best ones for photography.
Easter Island Logistics:
Costs, Transport & Accommodation
Alfred the gnome believes this shot of him at Ahu Tongariki is one of his best travel photos to date.
Best Time to Visit Easter Island
It’s a great location year-round except for April when it rainfall is the highest. Summer (December to February) is the busiest season especially around the annual Tapati Rapi Nui Festival in February. Temperatures hover in the low 80s F and don’t usually drop below 60 in the winter months. Driest months are October for February. I went in late March to avoid the crowds and get the best weather. It rained a few times, but it was brief.
The wild horses were the biggest surprise about Easter Island for me. While many of the horses are branded, they roam free and often hang out in the roads. Be careful when driving.
Seven-Day Trip to Easter Island Costs
Groceries: 49.18
Beer: $5.41
Gas: $22.16
Rental Car for 3 days: $173.35
National Park Ticket: $80
North Coast Hike: $82.08
Accommodation: $123.89
Total Cost: $553.23
This does NOT include my flight, which cost $887 from Santiago roundtrip. (I bought the flight with the miles on my Chase Sapphire Card, which is currently the best rewards card on the market.) Flights range from $400-$1200 roundtrip. I booked my flight six months in advance.
After a heavy rainstorm one morning, these double rainbows appeared at Camping Mihinoa, our accommodation. While we stayed in a room inside one of the buildings, many people rented tents and camped.
Budget Tips for Easter Island
- Book your flight 6-9 months in advance. Flights can be as low as $400 roundtrip from Santiago nine-months in advance! LATAM is the only airline with service to Easter Island. There are eight flights a week from Santiago and one flight on Monday nights that continues to Tahiti. It’s the nicest airline in South America.
- Camp or book budget accommodation. My friend and I stayed at Camping Mihinoa and rented a private room with two beds with a shared bathroom for $40 USD/night. That’s $20/each, which is the cost of most hostels in mainland Chile. They also offer tents and dorms for cheaper rates – usually $15/person. The place was spotless and had a good location.
- Trip Length. Four to five days is sufficient to see the island. Flights just worked out cheaper for us to stay longer, which is why we stayed six nights.
- Cook. Food is insanely expensive! This partly due to the remoteness of the island and lack of resources. We cooked the entire trip except for a small meal out when we arrived. Fish and chips at a restaurant was $30 USD! Beer was $6 at the grocery store!
- Take food with you. I saw people check bags of food on the flight. There isn’t much variety of food on the island or in the grocery stores so if you are on a budget, pack what you can!
- Take USD. Sometimes, it’s cheaper to have USD with you. For example, I saved $9 paying in USD for the Easter Island park entry fee in USD.
- Check the exchange rate. Many things are listed in both USD and Chilean Pesos. I use the free XE app to check prices to see which currency is the best deal. I saved $54 paying for my six-night accommodation on the island in pesos.
- Rent Your Own Car. If you can drive a manual transmission car and have a group of people, it’s significantly cheaper to explore the island on your own. Plus, you’ll get better photos since the tours are always during the worst time of the day for photos. It’s $60/day for a manual transmission car and $100/day for an automatic transmission. Day tours start at $120 USD/person! Gas isn’t cheap so keep that in mind. I still think the flexibility is worth the price of renting a car.
- Expect Bad Wifi. Accept the fact that you are in the middle of the Pacific Ocean. Wifi is painfully slow.
7 Reasons to Visit Uruguay
Punta del Este Lighthouse, Uruguay
Safe, stable Uruguay is the underdog of South America, sandwiched between its dramatic, flashy neighbors of Argentina and Brazil who often steal the spotlight. The progressive nation is the Switzerland of the South America filled with delicious restaurants, colonial charm and stunning beaches. It’s often overlooked but easily accessible with direct flights from the U.S.
I first visited Uruguay for a brief stint in 2015 to stock up on U.S. dollars from the ATMs to take back to Argentina, which at the time had higher rates for dollars on the black market than the ATM. This year I spent some time exploring more of the country and fell in love.
Here’s 7 places you can’t miss in Uruguay:
El Mano en la Arena sculpture in Punta del Este , Uruguay; photography by Anna Mazurek. Images cannot be used without permission.
1. La Mano en La Arena
Chances are high you’ve seen photos of this iconic statue of a hand in the sand in the glitzy beach town of Punta del Este. The statue is by Chilean artist Mario Irarrázabal and was completed in 1982. Sunrise is the only time the statue isn’t mobbed by hordes of selfie-stick welding tourists.
Zucchini Ravioli at Toledo Tapas in Montevideo, Uruguay
2. Toledo Tapas
This hidden lunch spot was hands down one of the best meals I had in the past three months in South America. The zucchini ravioli with arugula was life changing. It’s located in the downtown business district of Montevideo and only open from 12 p.m. to 4:30 p.m. Monday to Saturday. Calle Cerrito 499, 11000 Montevideo, Uruguay
Cabo Polonio ,Uruguay; photography by Anna Mazurek. Images cannot be used without permission.
3. Cabo Polonio
This remote beach town is located seven miles off the main highway and is only accessible by 4-wheel drive vehicles. In 2009, the area was declared a national park and is home to the second largest sea lion colony in the country. The sea lions hang out on rocks by the lighthouse, which is worth the climb for the view. Watch the sunset from the giant sand dunes on the western side of town. There’s no ATMs and limited electricity, which just adds to the charm of the town.
How to Get to Cabo Polonio:
Northbound buses will drop you off at the Cabo Polonio turn-off where there’s a huge tourist center with food and bathrooms. You can book buses directly to other parts of the country from here as well.
Casa Pueblo near Punta del Este, Uruguay
4. Casapueblo
This stunning nine-story villa was built by Uruguayan artist Carlos Páez Vilaró. It houses an art gallery, museum and hotel. It’s an excellent sunset spot. The house spills down the side of the cliff and the best photos are from the adjacent cliff. Most buses will drop you at the turn off which is 13 kilometers from Punta del Este and you can walk another 15 minutes to the villa.
Unless you are a fan of the artist, I wouldn’t recommend the museum. I felt it was overpriced for such a very tiny space and didn’t offer much background information. It’s worth the trek from Punta del Este for the view alone.
Escaramuza bookstore in Montevideo, Uruguay is my favorite cafe in town.
5. Escaramuza
Escaramuza is a stunning high-ceiling bookstore with a cozy café in the back. It was my favorite hangout spot in the capital. The café is a great spot for lunch and has great WIFI. While the menu changes daily, the best options are offered during lunchtime. Be sure to save room for dessert! Dr. Pablo de María 1185, 11200 Montevideo, Uruguay
Calle de los Suspiros, the Street of Sighs, in Colonia del Sacremento, Uruguay is home to one of the best resturants in town: Buen Suspiro!
6. Colonia del Sacramento
Colonia is a photographer’s dream – quiet cobblestone streets, rusting classic cars and colorful, crumbling colonial buildings. The former Portuguese settlement and Unesco World Heritage site is 50 km from Buenos Aires by ferry. The town’s location made it a haven for smugglers and was later succeeded to Spain in the 1700s. Frequent ferries make it a popular day trip from Buenos Aires.
Be sure to eat at Buen Suspiro. This cozy restaurant on Calle de los Suspiros has the best food in Colonia. They specialize in large shared appetizer plates called picadas. Check out my photo guide to Colonia!
I got up at sunrise and ran to the famous Montevideo sign for a photo!
7. La Rambla
The world’s longest continuous sidewalk, la Rambla, hugs the coastline ofthe capital of Montevideo for 13.7 miles. At sunset, it’s covered with locals relaxing and enjoying their mate, a loose-leaf tea that is sipped through a straw. Get up at sunrise to get a photo of the iconic MONTEVIDEO sign located along the north side of Playa de Los Pocitos. The sign is continuously repainted based on the season.
What’s the best thing about Uruguay? NO TAX for foreign credit cards!
If you pay with a foreign credit card, taxes are waived for both accommodation AND food. This saves roughly 18-20%! The discount also applies to Visa debit cards, which are sometimes accepted more often than credit cards. Visa seems to be the most popularly accepted card in the country. This significantly cuts down the cost of traveling in the country. Be sure to only use credit/debit cards that don’t charge foreign transaction fees!