The view from the top of the 13-story tower at Bai Dinh Pagoda.
The scenery in Vietnam’s Ninh Binh province, known as the “Halong Bay on land” is unmatched in Southeast Asia with dramatic limestone karsts, enormous caves and boat rides on winding rivers through rice paddies. Over 6,000 hectares of the scenic landscape, known as the Trang A Landscape Complex, were given UNESCO status in 2014. You’ll likely recognize some of the otherworldly panoramas from the 2017 movie “Kong Skull Island” that was filmed in Vietnam.
Of course, the region is also home to some fabulous 15th century pagodas and temples—the area was Vietnam’s first capital.
Located in the Red River Delta less than two-hours by car from Hanoi, Ninh Binh province is easily accessible and worth setting aside a few days to explore. If you’re short on time, consider a day tour from Hanoi.
I’ve been in love with this region since my first trip in 2009, long before it became a UNESCO site. The more I visit, the more places I discover. Keep reading for the best things to in Ninh Binh!
Affiliate links are used in this post. If you make a purchase, I earn a small commission at no cost to you, which goes toward the cost of maintaining this blog.
Plan Your Trip
Currency: Vietnamese Dong (VND)
When to Go: December to March for cooler temperatures but March to June & September/October for best photo opps of rice fields.
Travel Insurance: Protect yourself with SafetyWing travel medical insurance to cover accidents and travel delays.
Mobile eSIM Card: Get seamless connectivity worldwide with Airalo minus the hassle of physical SIM card.
Trang An Boat Ride
The Trang An Landscape Complex achieved UNESCO status in 2014.
Location: 7 kilometers from provincial capital of Hoa Lu City
The region’s main attraction is a series of boat rides through spectacular scenery, and the most popular stunning is the UNESCO-listed landscape at Trang An.
There are three different route options but the most beautiful route in Trang An is route 3, a three-hour cruise to visit three temples and three caves, including the kilometer-long Hang Dot cave. (The experience made me feel like I was in Steven Spielberg’s “The Goonies” and one-eyed Willie’s ship would be waiting on the other side.) It’s often quieter than neighboring Tam Coc because the boat departure point isn’t in the center of a town.
Tam Coc Boat Ride
At Tam Coc, the rowers use their feet to propel the oars.
Location: Departure point located in Tam Coc town center.
When the rice fields are green (wet season), Tam Coc is great for a fun 1.5 to 2.5-hour boat trip on the Ngo Dong River where the boat guides row with their feet! The name Tam Coc (three grottoes) is based on the three natural caves that can be explored by water. The boat ride departure point is in the middle of the bustling town with the same name. Queues can be long in good weather.
While it’s beautiful, Trang An is better if you only have time for one because it’s quieter and has larger caves. If you visit out of season, it won’t be as pretty. On my last visit in January, the rice fields were mostly muddy or were just starting to grow.
Mua Cave
The two viewpoints at Mua Cave offer some of the best views in Ninh Binh.
Location: 6 kilometers from provincial capital of Hoa Lu City
For an ariel 360-views of Tam Coc’s boat route on the Ngo Dong River, climb the 500 stairs at Mua Cave. There are two viewpoints—one with a dragon statue overlooking at pagoda with a Avalokitesvara statue and another with a skinny towering multi-layered pagoda.
While the location shows up on Google Maps, you must walk through the Hang Mua Ecolodge to reach the stairs. It’s best visited with the rice fields are green (March/April) or yellow (May/June). The nearby ponds offer great lotus viewing between May and July. (Avoid January and December when vegetation is scarce.)
Bich Dong Pagoda and Cave Temple
The Bich Dong Pagoda dates back to the 15th century and is only a short bike ride from Tam Coc.
Location: 10 km from provincial capital of Hoa Lu City; 3 km from Tam Coc
This three-tiered Buddhist pagoda cave complex is one the most idyllic settings in Vietnam with a stone gateway at the base of a limestone cliff surrounded by an emerald pond. Built in 1428, it was originally a small pagoda before being enlarged during the 18th century. There’s a series of 100 steps between the base and the middle pagoda then a short but steep accent to the third level.
The entryway is the most photogenic spot, but I loved how Choco pies were the most common offering inside the Buddhist temple.
Bai Dinh Pagoda
Set aside at least half a day to explore the Bai Dinh Pagoda complex.
Location: 21 kilometers from provincial capital of Hoa Lu City
This photogenic 4,200-acre Buddhist complex, one of the largest in Southeast Asia, is located about 20 kilometers from Ninh Binh. Opt for the ticket with the included electric cart shuttle to make it easy to explore the expansive site of massive great halls and towering Buddha statues. Don’t miss the views from the 13-story tower. You could easily spend a whole day here due to the size.
I spent a rainy day exploring the complex and loved that it wasn’t crowded. If the weather isn’t ideal, this would be the first place I’d visit. Based on the parking lot size, it can get very crowded—avoid visiting during the annual festival on the sixth day of the first lunar month of the year.
Hoa Lu Old Town
A nighttime stroll around Hoa Lu Old Town, always known as Pho Co Hoa Lu, is a great photo opp.
Location: Central part of Hoa Lu City
Hoa Lu Old Town, located in Hoa Lu City (formerly Ninh Binh City), is a stunning sight of two towering modern pagodas lit up at night with detailed carvings inside. This free attraction was built in 2022, so don’t get it confused with Hoa Lu Ancient Town, the historic site of the first capital of Vietnam that’s 11 kilometers away. It’s free to visit and is beautiful in the evening. To reach the pagodas, you must walk through the island in the reservoir and then, follow the path to the temples.
Hoa Lu Ancient Town
The Temple of Dinh Tien Hoang is one of two ancient temples dedicated to emperors at Hoa Lu Ancient Town.
Location: 11 kilometers from provincial capital of Hoa Lu City; 4 km from Trang An boat departure point
A gargantuan stone gate and bridge act as the entrance to Hoa Lu Ancient Town, the first capital of Vietnam dating back to the 10th century. After walking through the gate, there are two temples dedicated to emperors: Temple of Dinh Tien Hoang on the left and Temple of Emperor Le Dai Hanh on the right. If you feel up for a 20-minute hike, trek to the tomb of Emperor Dinh Tien Hoang for an aerial view of area. There’s no public transport, so you’ll need your own set of wheels or book a tour out of Ninh Binh City. If you’re in the area, it’s worth stopping for a short visit but I wouldn’t go out of my way to visit. There’s much more exciting sites in the area.
Want to avoid the crowds in Ninh Binh?
If you don’t mind trekking a bit further out, the Van Long Nature Reserve is a quieter boat trip with less tourists. It’s located farther north in the province than the other sites. Thung Nham Bird Park, an 18-square-kilometer bird sanctuary, is home to over 50,000 birds and the number increases during migration season. The park has a series of well-marked trails for biking or walking.
How to Get to Ninh Binh
The interior of the cave temple at Bich Dong Pagoda.
The Ninh Binh province is roughly an hour and 45 minutes southeast of Hanoi. The cheapest option is a public bus from Hanoi, which often to go the provincial capital of Hoa Lu City (formerly Ninh Binh City). The easiest option is a $7 shared transfer from Hanoi that will drop you directly at your hotel in Trang An, Bai Dinh, Tam Coc, Ninh Binh City.
I had a great experience with this transfer—it was efficient. Once we reached the area, I had to transfer from a comfy van to an SUV for a short ride to my hotel in Tam Coc.
How to Get Around Ninh Binh Provence
You’ll need your own set of wheels to visit most sights, so plan on renting a motorbike or car. Most accommodation can help with this and also set up a car with a driver, which is what I ended up doing on my last visit because the weather was too rainy for a motorbike. Day tours are easy to find as well.
When to go to Ninh Binh
January is the coolest month—it can be downright cold—but all the vegetation is barren. Things start to green up in March. From May to June, the rice fields turn yellow during harvest season and again in September and October in some areas. The rainy season starts in May and lasts through October with heavy rains and high temperatures but lush green rice fields. (Mosquitos and leeches are at their peak during rainy season, so come prepared with bug spray and long sleeves.)
Personally, I’d avoid December to January when all trees and rice fields are brown and gross. Yes, it’s cooler, but it’s just not great for photos. Photographers should aim for April or May. Avoid the TET holiday when many places shut down.
Where to stay in Ninh Binh
Hoa Lu City (formerly known as Ninh Binh City) is the provincial capital and transportation hub with many accommodation options. All the main sights are within a 15-to-30-minute drive. You’ll need to arrange your own transport or to book a tour. There’s plenty of quieter accommodation options in between the main attractions. (You can easily get cheap shared transfers to other parts of the area direct from Hanoi without going through the city.)
I prefer Tam Coc as a good base for exploring the area because it’s smaller and walkable. I stayed at Tam Coc Mountain Sunset and Garden Hotel ($30 USD/night) with spacious rooms, a convenient location with a pool and helpful English-speaking owner. The Tam Coc Lion Kings Hotel & Resort is another that’s been highly recommended by friends.
Many hotels have the words “garden” or “sunset” in the name, so pay close attention to where you book so you don’t end up in the wrong place! This happened to me at first.
I recommend staying a few nights in the area, but there’s also plenty of day tours from Hanoi if you are short on time.
