Interview with the (solo) Traveling Granny
Merrilee Davis is my hero. The self-proclaimed “Traveling Granny” started traveling solo in 2011 at age 64. I met her on a ferry from Panama to Cartagena, Colombia last year. Every time, I bumped into her in Cartagena she was practicing her Spanish with the locals, eating street food and always smiling. If the Traveling Granny can travel solo, why can’t you?
Merrilee Davis, 68, just returned from a five month trip in India and Sri Lanka, which included an overnight camel safari in Rajasthan, India. She has been traveling solo for four years. (All photographs courtesy of Merrilee Davis.)
Name: Merrilee Davis
Age: 68
Hometown: North Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada
Country count: 18 + including Mexico, Guatemala, Honduras, Nicaragua, Costa Rica, Panama, Colombia, Ecuador, Bolivia, Peru, Trinidad, Thailand, Laos, Vietnam, Cambodia, Sri Lanka, and India
1. How did you start traveling?
I use to travel with my husband on short trips away from our holiday home in Mexico. My first trip alone was to Guatemala to study Spanish for six weeks. I was very nervous to go on that first trip alone to what I thought would be a very undeveloped country. When I arrived, I loved my experience there! I stayed with a local family and studied five days a week for five hours each day in a school with a one-on-one teacher/student program. On Friday afternoons after class, I would hop the local chicken buses and head off solo to places in Guatemala to experience them for the weekend. It was then that I realized that it was not so scary [to travel solo], and I had the courage to just step out and get to know this country. I have been back three or four times since and having learned Spanish over the years has helped me in my travels in Central and South America. At my age, it is hard to learn a new language, but I again jump into just using it the best I can when I am traveling. The locals love that I am at least trying to speak Spanish. I think they also get lots of amusement out of the way I word things. Learning to laugh at oneself is part of the experience and to not to get hung up on being perfect.
Left: Ciudad Perdida ruins, Colombia; Right: Salar de Uyuni (famous salt flats), Bolivia
2. How did you start traveling solo in your 60s?
After I left my marriage and spending every winter in our place in Mexico, I decided to explore more of the world. As I am thrifty, I chose places that were cheaper but fun. Spending mega bucks on a fancy hotel is not my idea of traveling nor is going with a tour group. I feel that I miss the interaction with the culture and locals if I get herded along with lots of other tourists. So, off I go backpacking with the young people but doing my own thing. They are either in awe of the traveling granny or totally ignore this older/gray-haired lady doing what they are doing. Actually, I do not choose hostels to stay in unless they have a private room. As I travel, I send emails to many of my friends and family with updates on my trip. I started to sign them “Traveling Granny” as I am now a grandmother seven times over. I so enjoy traveling solo as I have the time and flexibility to change plans at a whim without lots of discussion. Many times I have changed direction travelling, changed plans and being by myself, it is really easy to do this. No one to blame if I make a bad choice or decision. When I head off to a new country, I do very little research beforehand. I get off the plane with my travel book and tablet and start going. For me, it works to only make hotel reservations for those few nights when I arrive in a country if it is a long plane ride. After that, I find my accommodations as I go.
3. Tell us about your most recent adventure.
I just came back from India. All I can say is I cannot wait to go back. Such a huge country and so much to do and see.
4. How did you fund your travels?
I have enough money to travel the way I do as it is not expensive. Before I would rent out my house for the five months, but after a bad experience, I decided to leave my nephew there and travel without worries. So, I did not need to save money as usually it is cheaper to travel than to stay in North Vancouver for the winter season. I have pensions that I use to travel and that covers the costs. The most expensive is usually the airfare to my destination and home.
Merrilee traveled by train across India. She spent five months in India and Sri Lanka from November 2015 until March 2016.
5. Share one of your travel highlights.
[The following is an excerpt from Merrilee’s Traveling Granny emails from India]
The train pulls in and we all scramble, sometimes in the dark, to find our car number then seat or bench. On my last train ride, three guys were all on my lower seat, so I moved along to another compartment and joined a family and warmed the kids up to this grandma. The little gal, about four, was talking to me as though I understood everything. So, I just made up things to answer, and we had great fun. Lots of smiles and laughter.
Vendors going up and down the aisles with water, Chai, coffee, food, oranges, lassie (bit like a milkshake), and they must repeat the item billions of times in their lives in a shortened format or sing-song voice. The train food is very cheap, but one must be careful not to try it all. Who knows where it has been prepared.
6. What was your greatest struggle and how did you overcome it?
I can’t think of a great struggle. I do have difficulties seeing the abuse of the dogs in many countries. The mange, broken bones, lack of water and food for mostly the street dogs just pulls at my heart strings.
Maybe another struggle or difficulty is getting ready to leave my place for four to five months. Making sure I have thought of everything to pack and also taking care of what may need attention when I am away. I am learning that I am always a little anxious when I first head off to a new country, but when I land and start travelling that nervousness goes away. Stepping out of my comfort zone and leaping into the great unknown of a new country is always a mixture of emotions.
Left: Jain temple in Ranakpur, Rajasthan, India; Right: Murud, a small town on the beach south of Mumbai, India
7. What advice would you have for aspiring travelers over age 60? Any tips for overcoming fear?
I am still asking people what they are afraid of! So many of my friends say they are living vicariously through me as I travel. Why they do not get off the couch and do it themselves is a mystery. Sometimes, it is health or not enough money, but in most cases, they say they are afraid and that I am so brave. For me, it is a challenge, but I have life-changing experiences. I meet a few other solo women around my age when traveling but not many.
8. What is the biggest myth about traveling solo?
Not sure what this means, but sometimes people say that I will get mugged, raped, robbed. Actually at this age, the locals are very respectful of me and helpful. Having traveled for quite a few years now by myself, I have learned more travel smarts. I am very fit, energetic and active for my age so very little holds me back from experiencing it all out there. This last trip in India the men were always curious as to why I travel solo and they were intrigued with my contentedness without a man. I never felt threatened or afraid in India the whole time I was there.
9. Name three things you always pack for a trip.
- I always pack my double-bed silk liner. May not use it much, but if sheets are suspect or a non-existent top sheet or whenever it seems sketchy, I pull out my liner. Bought it in Vietnam, and it packs up very small in my backpack.
- Silicone ear plugs that mold beautifully into the ears. I take at least three pair of these, and they are a god-send at times. I do not use them all that much, but when needed on trains, buses, noisy hotels or guest houses, they are fabulous at blocking out the racket.
- Woven water-bottle holder that I bought in Guatemala. I carry a metal thermos that I can refill, and it fits perfectly in the holder. This frees up my hands as it is on a strap and also keeps the liquid cooler longer.
10. What is your next adventure?
I think back to India in the fall.
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COMING UP:
In the next Travel Tuesday Interview, I talk with Jesse Beck, a former Peace Corps volunteer in Madagascar about her experience. Sign up below for more interviews from inspiring travelers!
TRAVEL WITH ME:
Follow my summer travels on Instagram! Next week, Alfred the gnome and I head out on a road trip through the Southwestern U.S. via Antelope Canyon, Phoenix and White Sands National Park in New Mexico!
Travel Tuesday Interview Series
Clockwise from top left: Merrilee Davis, the solo Traveling Granny; the McGuinness family, a family of four who spent a year abroad; Jessie Beck, Peace Corps volunteer in Madagascar; Kaleena Quarrels, a former English teacher in Korea.
My favorite part about traveling is the people I meet along the way.
I have felt like an outcast my entire life. First, I was the girl with glasses AND braces. When I started traveling solo in college, I was even more of an outcast. Everyone thought I was crazy. When I left to study abroad in England, I started meeting people who were doing the exact same thing—traveling the world solo! They also refused to spend their entire lives waiting on other people to travel with them. There were times that I felt I connected more with a stranger in 15 minutes than people I had known my entire life. These strangers understood me in ways that only another traveler could. I didn’t have to explain why I was traveling, the sacrifices I made to be on the road or why sitting still made me stir crazy. We shared the same goals and struggle. Those people became some of my closest friends.
Last year, I met the Traveling Granny in Colombia—a 68-year-old woman from Vancouver who has been traveling solo for years. At a hostel in Surce, Bolivia, I met a British family of four who sold their house to travel for a year. From Peace Corps volunteers to English teachers in Korea to location-independent entrepreneurs to expert couchsurfers, I’ve met people who made travel and adventure their top priority. They have both challenged and inspired me. After all, courage is contagious.
As a journalist, I felt it was my duty to share their stories. After months of countless emails, I am launching my Travel Tuesday Interview Series next week! The series will feature interviews with inspiring travelers from across the world. Each shares their journey, struggles and travel/packing tips.
I am not the only person out there traveling the world. You are not the only person who wants to travel. Above all, I hope these stories give you that little nudge of courage to make travel a priority. You are not alone. 🙂
Feel free to share with anyone in need of a bit of travel inspiration. Follow along and sign up below to have the interviews delivered straight to your inbox.
COMING UP: The Travel Tuesday Interview Series starts with the solo Traveling Granny, 68-year-old Merrilee Davis, who has traveled solo across Latin America, Sri Lanka and India!
TRAVEL WITH ME: Follow my summer travels on Instagram! I’ll be in Iceland, Phoenix and everywhere in between!
A Guide to Working Abroad
I miss seeing the Sydney Opera house everyday.
When I lived in Australia in 2008-9, I worked at a bar with a great view of the Sydney harbor. It was a great way to both fund my travels and meet people. (For more about my year in Australia, check out the story I wrote for AFAR magazine.)
My goal in life is to work as many random jobs as possible because I believe it builds character and great life skills. I have waited tables, worked retail folding clothes at the mall, bartended, photographed everything from farmers to the Foo Fighters (Dave Grohl is my hero!) for a variety of magazines, taught English in Thailand, ran photo trips in Asia and taught photography classes at American universities. After all, what pays the bills doesn’t define you. Your character is what defines you.
In my last post, I discussed the REAL cost of travel and broke down the cost of my 7-month Latin America trip. Now, I have complied a guide of ways to work abroad to help extend both your travels and savings. I have done many of these myself and have met people doing every option listed below.
Whether you are 18 or 68, there’s plenty of options for everyone.
Working Holiday Visas
I lived in Australia for almost a year on a Working Holiday Visa. These types of visas allow 18- to 30-year-olds to work while they travel. I worked a few random bar jobs and also photographed bands for Rolling Stone magazine. (Pretty random, I know.)
- Australia and New Zealand offer one-year visas for Americans and other many other nationalities aged 18-30, which allow you to work anywhere. Australia has a stipulation that you may not work for one employer for more than six months consecutively. Visa costs: $320 USD for Australia and $165 USD for New Zealand. Both visas include a stipulation that you must have at least $4,000-$5,000 in local currency in your bank account to enter the country, but they don’t always ask proof. (I was never asked in Australia.)
- For students or recent graduates, there are similar visa programs in South Korea ($45 USD fee), Canada ($200 USD), Singapore ($150 USD fee) and Ireland ($300 USD fee). You must do these programs within 12-months of graduating. Here’s a great guide for Working Holiday programs for Americans.
- If you have dual citizenship or you are NOT an American citizen, then consider looking into other Working Holiday Programs like Japan, Ireland, Italy and others. The programs in Australia and New Zealand are also open to a variety of different nationalities. There are far more opportunities available for non-U.S. citizens. For more info, this Linkedin article is a good resource.
- If you are interested in living in a country, a Working Holiday Visa is a good place to start. It can open doors to future careers and other visa options. Many of my friends got residency or a long-term work visa by starting with the Working Holiday program.
- Bunac is travel company that offers help with work visas for recent graduates (Ireland, intern in Britain, Canada), etc. They are great resource for information, but many of these programs you can apply for directly without their help.
I taught English to a kindergarten class at public school in Sisaket, Thailand. (Fridays were always pink shirt day.)
Teaching English
Teaching English is a great way to live abroad and fund your travels. I taught English in Thailand briefly and seriously considered similar opportunities in Korea and Japan. A Bachelor’s degree is required or preferred by many programs. A TEFL/TESOL certificate is not required for the programs listed below but can increase your salary. (FYI: I don’t have either certification. Private schools usually require it.) The highest paid programs are in Japan and Korea. Visas are almost always provided by employers.
The most established and highest paid programs provide the most training. Otherwise, be prepared to improvise. Be aware that many programs do not follow the traditional American/British school calendars for holidays (i.e. no Christmas break).
JAPAN
- The Jet Program is the most distinguished English teaching program in the country. Airfare is covered, and the salary is one of the highest in Japan. Housing and transport are subsidized. (A friend who did the program made $33,660 USD/year TAX FREE and only paid $130 USD in rent/month.) The application process is tedious and requires an interview at a Japanese consulate. A Bachelor’s degree is required. I applied once, got an interview but didn’t get the job. TIP: If you get an interview, be prepared to answer the following question: What would you say to a student who asked why the U.S. dropped the bomb on Hiroshima? (Yes, I was actually asked that question!)
- Other large teaching programs in Japan include AEON, Amity, Altia, Nova and ECC (These are all recommendations from friends who have taught in Japan.)
- For more info on Japan teaching programs and work visas, check out Tokyo Becky’s detailed guide!
KOREA
Most English teaching programs in Korea will cover airfare and accommodation. The application process can take a few months. An FBI background check is required a few months before leaving. (It’s not as scary as it sounds.) The best resource for jobs in Korea and other parts of the world is Dave’s ESL Café. Average salary is roughly $23,000 USD/year. Airfare, housing and visas are covered. Most start dates are in February or August. For more information, check out this guide to teaching in Korea.
THAILAND
I taught English briefly through AYC Thailand as a substitute teacher for a few weeks in a kindergarten class. Overall, it was a great experience. I’ve considered doing it again multiple times. I was paid 1,200 BHT/day ($34/USD) but would have made more if I had signed a contract with bonuses. Transport was covered from Bangkok to the teaching location. (I was eight hours away by train in a cool little town called Sisaket.) Since I was only substituting, my accommodation was covered so I lived on a few dollars a day. (I got free lunch at school.) Salaries are higher, and there are bonuses if you sign a semester contract. Public schools semesters run roughly from May to October and November to April.
Ajarn.com is a good resource for Thailand job postings. Many of my expat friends living and teaching in Thailand used this site.
OTHER LOCATIONS
- Greenheart Travel also offers programs in Thailand, Europe, Colombia and other parts of the world. I was accepted to teach English in Medellin, Colombia through their program. (I accepted a photography teaching position in the U.S. instead.) The position was stipend-based, included the visa but did not include transport costs. I recommend the company. The staff was really nice!
- Dave’s ESL Café also has a great job board for international opportunities.
Work Exchange
Work Exchange programs are a great way to volunteer your time in exchange for room and board. Many companies link hosts with volunteers. The time frame can range from days to months depending on the host. There is no age requirement, and it’s also possible to volunteer as a family with children. I’ve met many people during my travels who have used the programs below.
- Wwoof.net specializes with opportunities on organic farms across the world.
- WorkAway offers a variety of options including positons in schools, cafes, hostels and farms. Membership costs $29/USD per year. (I’ve stayed at many amazing hostels run by staff hired through Workaway and was offered a job at a few!)
- HelpX is an alternative to Workaway that provides positions at hostels, ranches and many other options. It costs 20 Euros for two-year membership. (One of my friends is in New Zealand now working on a farm through HelpX.)
Now, I’ve given you a huge amount of options so I fully expect you all to go out and start exploring the world! You no longer have any EXCUSES!
COMING UP: Travel Tuesday Interview Series! I am starting a long-term series of interviews with inspiring people I’ve met in my travels including a 68-year-old solo traveling granny, a British family (with two teenage kids) who sold their house to travel for a year, Peace Corp volunteers, English teachers in Korea, travel entrepreneurs and MORE!
The Real Cost of Travel
Salar de Uyuni (Bolivia) was one of my favorite places in Latin America. I crossed the Andes by bus, which was quite an adventure, and got stuck in Northern Chile for a week due to heavy rains and political protests en route. Nothing worthwhile is every easy.
The biggest myth about travel is that it is outrageously expensive.
I bet it might even be cheaper than where you live now. I spent seven months in Latin America and traveled to 11 countries from October 2014 until May 2015. I tracked every peso, dollar and boliviano I spent in an expense tracking app. I spent hours analyzing the results to provide the detailed and honest breakdown of all my expenses below. (I never want to look at a spreadsheet EVER again!) This includes everything from pay toilets to beer!
Before any big trip, I ELMINATE my bills and focus on saving for travel. In previous posts, I have discussed the cost of travel, solo travel, travel safety, travel banking and how to prepare for a long-term trip. On average, I try to live on $1,000 USD/month no matter where I live. That’s roughly $30/day. In Asia, this was a simple task, but I knew it was a challenge for Latin America due to high transport and visa costs in South America. Before any long-term trip, I like to have at least $10,000 in my savings account, which includes a cushion fund for when I come home. For this trip to Latin America, I saved $15,000 to help cover higher travel costs. To be clear, I have NO debt, which I talked about in a post from 2014.
All prices are in U.S. dollars
Total Cost of Trip: $9,714.38
Cost per Month (7-month trip): $1,387
Cost per Day: $46
Countries visited: 11 total including Mexico, Cuba, Panama, Costa Rica, Colombia, Argentina, Chile, Uruguay, Bolivia, Peru and the Maldives (My friends flew me to the Maldives to shoot their amazing wedding!)
Biggest expenses: Machu Picchu ($229 including transport from Cusco and entrance fee only), Peruvian Amazon four-day tour ($402), a month traveling in Patagonia, Torres del Paine ($246.47 including food, entrance fee, rental gear, camping and transport from Puerto Natales, Chile), Cuba ($500 for two week trip); Bolivia Salt Flats ($179); Spanish classes ($259.30)
Summary: Overall, I stayed under my $15,000 budget and still came back to the U.S. with the cushion fund I had budgeted ($5,000). I did spend more than I hoped because I fell in love with Argentina and stayed for two months including one month in Patagonia. Is it possible to do this trip cheaper than I did? Of course! The goal of this post is to show an idea of the actual cost of travel and dispel possible myths. In the end, I do not regret a thing. Every single dollar was worth it!
Detailed Breakdown of All Expenses
Accommodation: $2,252.54
I stayed in dorm beds at hostels for the majority of my trip ranging from $8-$40/night. I shared larger private rooms with groups of friends I met on my travels. I also rented an apartment in Buenos Aires for $35/night and split it with a friend.
Transport: $2,821.02
(Transport $2,545.22 & Visas $275.80)
- This includes every single form of transport (taxi, trains, flights, ferries) and all visas.
- Visas: Argentina $160 reciprocity fee (As of 2016, Americans no longer have to pay this fee.); Cuba $25; Bolivia $60 for one-month entry
- Flights: I flew 15 times and only paid for four flights because I’m a frequent flyer mile ninja. (This does not include the six flights to the Maldives to shoot my friend’s wedding.) Domestic flights in Peru were only 6,000 miles each way so I flew multiple times to save time. I booked award flights a month to six weeks in advance. My trip ended in Lima because it is the cheapest place to fly back to the U.S. from South America. (Trust me, I did tons of research.)
- Overnight buses were my main form of transport. The buses in Argentina were the most expensive—each bus was at least $100. I traveled only by bus and jeep from Ushuaia, the Southern most city in the world to Cusco, Peru.
- I took an overnight ferry from Panama to Colombia for $150 because I refused to pay $400 for a one-way hour-long flight.
- There are only two ways to get to Aguas Calientes, the gateway city to Machu Picchu: take the train or walk for seven hours. I travel with 30 pounds of camera gear (and a gnome) so I gladly paid for the $150 for the scenic train.
One of the highlights of my trip was a four-day Amazon tour in Iquitos, Peru during the wet season. I photographed this squirrel monkey from our boat on Monkey Island.
Entrance Fees/Tours: $1,053.43
This includes all museums, archeological sites, hiking, national parks and cultural attractions like Machu Picchu admission ($40); 4-day Amazon Tour in Iquitos, Peru ($403.91); Torres del Paine admission ($30); Bolivia Salt Flats tour ($179)
Food: $2,419
(Eating out: $1,565.97; Groceries: $299.92; Beer: $269.99)
- One of my favorite parts of traveling is the food! The older I get, the more I spend on food. I eat well and never eat ramen, but I do eat a lot of peanut butter. Usually, I make peanut butter, banana and honey sandwiches for long bus rides or transit days when food options are limited. (TIP: Always pack a jar of natural peanut butter for a trip – it’s either hard to find or expensive overseas.)
- I ate my weight in steak and fresh berries in Argentina. All of which were extremely cheap.
- I cooked a lot in hostels with other travelers, which meant most meals only cost about a few dollars. I also tried to only stay at places with free breakfast.
- I only spent $13.12 on water because I took a Sawyer MINI water filter with me, which saved a lot of money and plastic. The tap water was drinkable in Argentina, Southern Chile, Panama and certain parts of both Colombia and Costa Rica.
Toiletries/Medicine: $144.55
(Toiletries: $54.39; Medical: $90.16)
- This includes shampoo, medicines like ibuprofen, toothpaste and bandages for when I smashed my knees (and my iPhone) on a morning run in a park in Buenos Aires.
- Contact solution was $20 in Panama! When possible, I ALWAYS buy sunscreen and contact solution in the U.S. before I leave because it’s either hard to find, bad quality or overpriced abroad.
I stocked up on llama clothing in Sucre, Bolivia.
Clothing/Laundry: $102.25
(Clothing: $45.83; Laundry $56.42)
The only clothing items I really bought were socks and a llama sweater/gloves for Bolivia/Peru. I usually only pack for summer because I hate the cold. It’s easier and cheaper to just buy a llama sweater, gloves and socks than drag warm clothing around for five months. For a list of my top 10 things to pack, check out this post.
Insurance: $321.75
I paid $50/month for zero-deductible travel medicine insurance with emergency evacuation coverage and an adventure sports rider through IMGlobal. I opted for the 30-days of home coverage after I returned to give me time to sort out my American insurance. I always cancel my American health insurance when I travel long-term because most U.S. policies offer limited international coverage.
Other Expenses: $599.84
This includes the following: Pay toilets: $3.91; Gifts: $34.65; Postage: $56.92; Spanish classes $259.30; WIFI: $16.42, Tips: $36.17; Other: $192.47
QUESTIONS: Now that I have bared my soul and travel finances to you, I have one small favor to ask. Tell me what topics you would like to see covered on the blog in future posts! What are your travel questions or concerns? Please comment below or email me. I’ll respond as promptly as possible or answer your questions in a detailed post in the future.
COMING UP: Guide to Working Abroad
Six Places Not to Miss in Buenos Aires
Teatro Colon is a stunning opera house in the heart of Buenos Aires. The performance seasons starts annually in March.
Is it possible to fall in love with a city?
Entirely possible. If you don’t believe me, I dare you to visit sexy, savory Buenos Aires. I rented an apartment ($35 USD/night) for a few weeks in March last year and hope to spend a few months there next year. The Argentinean capital is filled with European architecture and a Latin seductiveness that will tempt you to stay forever. Consider yourself warned.
Here are the six must-see sights in the city:
1. La Recoleta Cemetery
One of the most notable graves in La Recoleta Cemetery belongs to Eva Perón. The 14 acre grounds are hauntingly beautiful – elaborate aboveground marble mausoleums and statues cover a sprawling grid of four city blocks lined with large walkways. The cemetery was once the orchard for the adjacent 1732 Our Lady of Pilar church. Be sure to catch one of the free English tours at 11 a.m. on Tuesdays and Thursdays.
2. Teatro Colón
The seven-story Teatro Colón, pictured above, is not only one of the finest opera houses in the world but one of the most beautiful buildings in the city. Built in 1908, the theater covers an entire city block and features ballet, opera and concert performances. Many of the lavish building materials – Venetian mosaics, French stained glass and three kinds of Italian marble—were all imported from Europe. The main performance season started on March 1st. If you are unable to catch a performance, take one of the hourly guided tours to get a behind the scenes look at the stunning theater and rehearsal rooms.
Stalls of antique seltzer bottles are the heart of the San Telmo Market.
3. San Telmo Street Fair
Plan to be in Buenos Aires on a Sunday just to visit the street market in San Telmo. The heart of the market at Plaza Dorrego is focused more on antiques including a row of vendors selling vintage glass seltzer bottles. The stalls stretch out into the adjacent streets and eventually, it turns into more of a flea market with vendors selling leather belts, fresh squeezed juice and merchandise centered around Mafalda, a famous Argentinean cartoon character.
4. La Cabrera
A meal at La Cabrera is life changing. If you don’t have a reservation at the swanky Palermo parrilla (steakhouse), show up at 7 p.m. for happy hour. You will be seated promptly and everything (steak, salad and even wine) is 50% off. The only catch is that you must be out before 8 p.m. when they start seating parties with reservations. Juicy steaks are served with an array of small sides ranging from pickles to purees. Salads are gigantic, service is fast and you can take your bottle of wine to-go.
The most beautiful bookstore in the world: El Ateneo
5. El Ateneo Grand Splendid Bookstore
The story behind the bookstore is just as interesting as the décor. The building opened in 1919 as a theater called the Teatro Gran Splendid before converting into a cinema, which showed the first sound films in the country. The theater-turned-cinema was then converted into a bookstore in the early 2000s. Much of the interior including the ornate carvings remain in tact. Book shelves replaced the rows of seats, and the theater boxes were left for customers to curl up with a book. Dark red curtains frame the stage, which is now home to a quaint café. Their English book section is very limited.
6. National Museum of Decorative Arts
The 1917 beaux-art mansion was originally the home of Chilean aristocrat Matías Errázuriz and his wife, Josefina de Alvear. When Alvear died in 1935, the family donated the house and its extensive collection of European and Asian art to the Argentine government under the condition it be used as a museum. The elaborate décor features a ballroom with hand-carved ceilings along with artwork by Manet and Rodin. It is the only French mansion built at the beginning of the 20th century open to the public in Buenos Aires. Admission is free on Tuesdays. Stop for lunch at the adjacent Croque Madame Café for a delicious array of cakes and quiches before visiting the museum.
Best Times to Visit: January and February are peak season when both rates and temperatures soar. Fall (April – June) and spring (Sept.– Dec.) have milder temperatures (70-60° F) and smaller crowds. I personally love the heat so February and March were my favorite months to visit!
COMING UP: The Real Cost of Travel – A breakdown of all of my expenses (ranging from accommodation to beer to pay toilets) from my seven-month adventure in Latin America!
Travel Safety 101
I have this silly fear of heights, which makes suspension bridges like this the scariest part of my travels at times.
Exchanging money on the black market in Argentina is always an adventure. It is just like the plot of a spy movie except – sadly – there is no Jason Statham. The movie started when a friend of a friend (an expat) gave me an address to a building in the swanky part of Buenos Aires with no sign and blinds covering the windows. I rang the doorbell, and the door buzzed open. As the door automatically locked behind me, I panicked. Was I about to die? Or was I just being overly paranoid as usual? After negotiating rates with a Che Guevara lookalike, I was walking down the sidewalk fifteen minutes later with a purse full of pesos and feeling good about my spy skills.
Due to Argentina’s high inflation, the black market is used by literally everyone because the rate is almost 50% higher than the ATM. I did my research beforehand, went to a reputable place and thoroughly checked the bills as I counted them at the counter. I checked again at my apartment, which confirmed my fear was overzealous as usual.
Despite what my mother and the news say, the world is actually a safe place. (Motorized vehicle accidents are the leading cause of unnatural deaths for Americans abroad, according to the New York Times.) I have traveled solo to five continents since 2002; safety is always my top concern. I want to dispel some fears with tips about how to stay safe in case you find yourself living in a spy movie while roaming the globe.
I’ve had my share of mishaps – my purse was stolen in Thailand and again in Barcelona because I was not paying attention—which were both good lessons that helped me stop a pickpocket in Buenos Aires and will hopefully help you as well.
Here are a few tips to help manage your fear and stay safe:
Traveling Warnings & Country Specific Concerns
- Check travel warnings. Before booking flights, research health, environmental, political and terrorism concerns in your destination. Americans should check travel.state.gov for warnings and sign up for the STEP Smart Traveler Program, which provides free email updates.
- Read recent travel guides. These are a good resource for reported safety incidents and high theft areas. (Personally, I felt the safest traveling solo in Japan, Europe, Australia/New Zealand and most of Southeast Asia. I also felt safe in Cuba and Burma. My guard was higher in parts of Mexico, Peru, Nicaragua, Bolivia and India.)
- Avoid areas with military conflicts/elections. Keep in mind that smaller elections may not make international headlines. (I was stuck in Northern Chile for a week due to combination of bad weather that closed the border to Bolivia and rumors of election protests blocking roads across the border. The snow and protests faded a few days later.)
- Dress culturally appropriate. Ladies, be sure to cover up in conservative cultures to avoid unwanted attention. Be respectful when visiting temples. (Some places in Thailand make you rent shawls if you are wearing tank tops or shorts.) Baggy harem pants are a good option for hot places like India and are great for preventing mosquito bites. Both men and women should avoid fancy jewelry and watches especially on public transport.
Get Travel Insurance
The key to insurance is simple: You insure what you can’t afford to pay yourself. I ALWAYS have travel medical insurance that covers emergency evacuation, trip interruption, adventure sports and end of trip coverage (after long-term trips). Most policies will not cover phones and will only pay a flat fee (usually $250) for other electronics. (I insure my camera gear and my Mac separately with State Farm’s Personal Articles Policy.) Many credit cards also include travel insurance benefits like baggage delay, trip interruption and accident coverage.
I always cancel my normal health insurance for long-term trips because American polices have very limited international coverage. Instead, I opt for a zero deductible travel medical policy, which offers better coverage overseas at a fraction of the cost ($30-50/month). I’ve used International Medical Group for years, and they pay claims within 30 days. (I have no affiliation with them.)
Check the Weather
Prices usually drop in the low season for a reason: monsoon season. Be aware of transport issues during monsoon/hurricane/typhoon season. In some places like Thailand, the monsoon season just means a little rain each day. In other places like the Philippines, it means dangerous conditions that can halt transport for days.
Safe Transport
- There is no price for safety. Never risk your safety to save money.
- In high risk areas, avoid local buses for long routes and pay a little extra for private buses. In Peru, I always used Cruz del Sur buses because they were the safest company with private bus stations, secure luggage claim and safe taxis options.
- Never grab a taxi off the street in areas with high crime. Have your hotel, hostel or a restaurant call one instead. Safe radio taxi companies operate in major cities including Meru in India and Tappsi in Colombia.
- Avoid arriving late at night in countries with safety concerns like India, Central America, Peru and Bolivia. If you are taking overnight transport, be sure to arrive during daylight hours in these areas.
- Write down the address of your destination on a piece of paper to hand to the taxi driver. Never give the driver your phone to see the address.
- Research local taxi regulations to ensure your taxi is marked properly before getting inside. Guidebooks and receptionists are good resources.
Tips for Avoiding Theft
- Never carry EVERYTHING with you. Only take the money you need when you go out for the day. Hide your money, passport and credit cards in many different places. The more obscure (like cough drop bags), the better.
- Lock valuables and passports in safes or lockers at hotels/hostels. (I never stay in a hostel that doesn’t have lockers. I bring a sturdy combination lock to secure it. Avoid flimsy suitcase locks and giant high-school-locker-style locks, which are usually too big.
- Watch your bags in crowded places, restaurants and public transport in high risk areas like Barcelona. Put your leg through your bag strap when standing/sitting. Do not hang purses/bags on the back of restaurant chairs or put them in the upper racks on local buses. Keep bags in your lap or at your feet.
- Do not put your phone in your back pocket or lay it on a restaurant table. Break the habit immediately. I always keep mine in my purse, which is always in my lap with the strap across my body.
- Watch your bags on public transport. If you have a purse, ALWAYS keep your hand over the zipper. Move all items in your pockets to one of your front pockets. Keep your hand inside the pocket to secure items. Put your backpack in front of you in crowded places or lock zippers with a suitcase lock.
- Watch out for counterfeit money in places with high inflation. Be aware of all proper watermarks and holograms for the local currency. Check your change carefully in taxis and street markets especially when you are breaking a large bill. Even if you end up with counterfeit currency, don’t worry—it can be passed off fairly easy in street markets. (I was given some fake currency on my last day in Peru. I made a game of spending it all before I left and succeeded!)
- Don’t go into the backrooms (non-public areas) of shops. Have the vendor bring items to the main area. If a shop vendor in India offers you tea, politely decline.
Overweight ferries are a huge safety concern. Don’t take this Ometepe, Nicaragua ferry. ALWAYS get the larger car ferry. (I thought THIS was the biggest ferry at the time.)
Trust your Instinct
Would you walk around the rough parts of your hometown at 2 a.m. with $1,000 cash in your pocket? No? Then, don’t do it abroad! Use common sense. Also, watch your partying. Alcohol and drugs impair your judgment and make you more vulnerable to thieves. (Many of the robberies I’ve heard about in my recent travels happened at night when people were partying or walking alone late at night.) If your gut instinct tells you something is even the slightest bit weird, get out of the situation immediately! Don’t worry about being rude. Get out!
Ask the Locals
I always ask locals for safety advice. Hotel receptionists, guides and expats are great resources. (I never stay in swanky hotels but have no qualms walking into one to ask the concierge about safety concerns.) Is it safe for a foreigner to take a local bus or visit a certain area of town? Do they feel safe in that part of town? If they don’t feel safe or think I won’t be safe, then I avoid the area or the time of day. Other travelers are a great resource as well.
COMING UP NEXT: A Guide to Buenos Aires (my FAVORITE city in the world!)
Why I Travel
Obligatory classic car portrait in Havana, Cuba
Why do I travel?
I travel because it makes me feel alive. Truly and completely alive.
I recently read Elizabeth Gilbert’s new story in Condé Nast Traveler magazine, and she inspired me to to write about why I travel and will always continue to travel.
To me, every aspect of life abroad is exciting even just walking down the street. Even those little mundane tasks like riding a bus or going to the ATM are an adventure. I am constantly learning new things and meeting amazing people. (I’ve met some of my best friends on the road and couldn’t imagine my life without them.)
I have this theory: The things that scare you are the things you need to do the most. When I feel comfortable, it’s a sign I need to move on to my next challenge in order to continue to grow.
I was not always this outgoing, adventurous or courageous. All of these skills were acquired by wandering around the globe (mostly solo).
I did not even grow up traveling except for weekend beach trips in the summer and that one trip to Disney World in fifth grade. How does a girl from small town South Carolina grow up to be a vagabond?
The biggest travel inspiration in my life is my 76-year-old Aunt Sandra. She and my uncle were always on some amazing adventure when I was growing up. She always had the best stories—the battle with the scorpion in her Amazon hut, scuba diving in Bonaire and river cruises in Russia. Every time, she brought back souvenirs – jewelry, t-shirts and purses. Eight-year-old Anna loved those Aruba t-shirts. I wore them daily with mismatched Bermuda shorts and dreamed of tropical beaches.
I always wanted to be the one with the cool stories. Now, I am the girl with the stories—photographing the Dalai Lama’s teachings at this temple in Northern India, sledding down the side of a volcano in Nicaragua and spending three days on a train across the Australian outback. Everything I do in life is for the story. I was always a journalist at heart. I am in love with the idea of the story, which is also why I have a Master’s degree in photojournalism.
Above all, my aunt always encouraged my adventures and never once said I was crazy. In August of 2014, I called to ask her opinion of the big trip I was planning in Latin America. I told her my timeline, the list of countries I wanted to visit including Cuba and the amount of money in my savings account ($15,000). I explained how I was marketing the trip to magazines and hoped to continue to freelance as I traveled. Then, I asked: “Should I go now or should I wait another year?”
Her response was immediate.
“Go now,” she replied. “I would if I could.”
Then, she made a great point: “You never know what will happen in those countries politically. If the situation changes, they might not be open for travelers for a long time.” Two months later, I was on a one-way flight to Mexico City with no set plans and unlimited freedom.
It wasn’t my first long-term solo trip, and I admit I was still a little scared—scared of running out of money, getting robbed or getting food poisoning again. But, I refused to let fear rule my life or get in the way of my stories.
I challenge you to answer the same question: Why do YOU travel?
COMING UP: Travel Safety 101
Road Trip Guide to Marfa
Classic Marfa: My favorite town in Texas
I have never been anywhere quite like Marfa.
The quirky, remote West Texas town is one of my favorite places to photograph. (Add it to your bucket list now!) The former railroad town has a population of just under 2,000 people and is a mecca for art. Marfa appeared on the art scene when famed minimalist artist Donald Judd moved to town from New York City in search of a location to permanently install his art. Now, a variety of galleries are scattered across the one-stoplight town along with trendy dive bars and delicious food trucks.
Downtown Marfa, Texas
Thanks to Judd, many people come to Marfa for the art and the hype. The photographic quirkiness of the town is what attracted me to visit. Who could resist the charm of storefronts from the 1800’s restored with a sleek modern touch only a block away from the bustling NAPA Auto Parts? On both of my visits, I drove around everyday at sunrise and sunset looking for things to photograph. I’ve always been drawn to the fringes of life – crumbling colonial towns in Latin America or Buddhist ruins in Asia. In Marfa, I’m drawn to the vintage cars, the former military based Judd turned in a giant art gallery and the dilapidated hotel signs that now stand by vacant lots on the edge of town. Marfa is thriving in a world where small towns struggle to survive.
Marfa does have a bit of third-world charm that adds a bit of adventure: The shops and restaurants don’t always have set hours. They open and close as they please. Good luck finding a place to eat on a Sunday night. (Friday and Saturdays are the best days to visit Marfa.)
People always ask me for tips (where to go/stay/eat) in all the places I’ve been so I’ve started taking good notes and writing up short mini-guides to help! Here’s a quick photo guide to my favorite city in Texas:
1. Marfa Lights
One of the many attractions in Marfa is the mysterious Marfa Lights, which were first documented in 1883. The lights do exist. I’d seen them twice—balls of light that move, fade and twinkle on clear nights between Marfa and the Piasno Pass. A viewing station was built nine miles east of town on Highway 90.
An advertisement for the Marfa Lights outside the quirky Thunderbird Hotel.
2. El Cosmico
El Cosmico is a 21-acre campground with teepees, Mongolian yurts and vintage trailers for rent. They book out far in advance for accommodation. Beyoncé stayed here on her recent visit. I always bring my own tent and chose the self-camp option for $15/person. There’s tons of hammocks, free wifi and a large kitchen.
El Cosmico offers a wide range of unique accommodation including three teepees.
3. Marfa Prada
One of the most famous art installations known as the Marfa Prada is actually is 37 miles west of town. The land art project by artists Elmgreen & Dragset was built in 2005 in conjunction with the Ballroom Marfa gallery. It is a replica of a Prada store including shoes and bags donated by Muccia Prada and a door that doesn’t open. The first time I drove out to the building, it had been vandalized, which sadly happens often. On my second trip, the building was repaired and more photogenic. Sunset or sunrise is the best time to photograph the building. There’s no ambient light so avoid going after dark.
4. Food Shark
Food Shark has some of the best food in town. The Mediterranean-inspired food truck with the iconic orange door is open Thursday – Sunday from noon until 3 p.m. The slow-roast pulled pork and okra sandwich is my favorite. Food Shark also runs The Museum of Electronic Wonders and Late Night Grilled Cheese Parlour, a popular weekend eatery packed with vintage TVs. If the inside is full, grab a table on the adjacent renovated school bus eating car to devour your grilled cheese. (Friday & Saturday 9:30 p.m. – 12:30 a.m.)
Food Shark runs two delicious eateries in Marfa. It’s a must for lunch!
5. Chinati Foundation
The Chinati Foundation, a contemporary art museum based on the work of Donald Judd, is located on a former military base. Admission is free to Judd’s untitled 15 works of concrete (pictured above) in a field along Highway 67. They offer several tour options: full collection (4 hours/$25 adults), selection tour (2 hours/$20) and a self-guided tour of Judd’s untilted works in mill aluminum ($10 adults).
6. Cobra Rock
On my first trip to Marfa, everyone suggested I visit Cobra Rock Boot Company run by Colt Miller and his partner, Logan Caldbeck. Miller started making boots ten years ago in Borden County near Lubbock, Texas after apprenticing with a cowboy boot maker. The majority of each shoe is stitched on Colt’s 1939 Singer sewing machine. They produce 10 pairs of boots each week, but the entire process takes about three weeks.
Cobra Rock Boot Company is one of my favorite stores to both photograph and visit in Marfa.
When to go:
- Most restaurants, galleries and shops are open on weekends. Almost everything is open on Saturdays, but Sunday nights are dead. Spring and fall are best for weather. It’s freezing at night from November to March and blazing hot in the summer during the day. Festivals weekends can be really crowded. See the list of events below.
Nearby Attractions:
- Be sure to head up to McDonald Observatory for their Saturday night Star Parties, which include outdoor constellation tours and telescope viewing. It’s usually cold, but the view is amazing.
- Hiking in Big Bend National Park is a must. The wide open desert and giant limestone canyons are incredible. A 4-wheel drive vehicle will make it easier to get to the remote parts of the park.
- Big Bend Brewery in nearby Alpine offers tours at 3 p.m. on Wednesday through Friday and on Saturday (1 p.m. & 3 p.m.) for $10. Includes samples of all beers and a really cool pint glass. Try Tejas lager – it’s my favorite!
Restaurants and Bars:
- Lost Horse Saloon – Local dive bar with fire pit and great taco trailer in parking lot. 306 E. San Antonio
- Marfa Burrito – Life-changing burritos. Open daily 6 a.m. – 2 p.m. 515 S. Highland St.
- Squeeze – My daily breakfast/lunch spot. Great waffles and soup. Tuesday to Sunday 8 a.m. – 3 p.m. 215 N Highland St.
- Jett’s Grill – A good Sunday night dinner option. Located in Hotel Paradiso. 207 North Highland Ave.
- Planet Marfa – A cute eclectic bar with a teepee in the center. Open seasonally on weekends. 200 S. Abbott St.
Festivals in Marfa:
- Chianti Weekend: Includes free tours, live music and a $500 fundraiser dinner that always sells out. Columbus Day Weekend (Saturday & Sunday); All galleries in town are open late the Friday before as part of the Made in Marfa event.
- Marfa Film Festival: Five-day film festival with outdoor screenings. (July 13-17, 2016)
- Marfa Lights Festival: Labor Day weekend at courthouse grounds. Features a parade and live music.
- Marfa Myths: Art/music event co-run by Ballroom Marfa and the Brooklyn-based record label Mexican Summer (March 10-13, 2016)
- Trans-Pecos Festival: A music and arts festival held at El Cosmico. (September 22-25, 2016)
- Via Big Bend Festival: Lineup of 50 bands playing in Alpine, Marathon and Fort Davis. (July 28-31, 2016)
For more information:
El Cosmico provides this great detailed map of Marfa and this extensive list of restaurants.
A Photo Guide to Nicaragua
Smoke rising up from the Masaya Volcano crater
I kicked off 2016 with by visiting my 44th country – Nicaragua. It was the perfect place to defrost from winter, eat my weight in papaya, climb colonial church towers and hike volcanos. Nicaragua is shaking off decades of political turmoil and slowly emerging from obscurity onto the main travel circuit. It’s still much cheaper and undeveloped than neighboring Costa Rica. Fingers crossed that it continues to stay under the radar.
Here’s my list of the top five must-see sights in the country:
1. Ometepe
My favorite part of Nicaragua was Isla de Ometepe—a mystical island with twin volcano peaks in the middle of a fresh water lake. A good portion of the island is undeveloped with unpaved roads. It was a great place to hike, swim and relax in a hammock. It was completely different (and safer) than the rest of Nicaragua.
Concepción, the larger of the two volcanos on Ometepe
I stayed in one handmade cottages at Finca Mystica, an ecofriendly jungle lodge. The food, accommodation and location were amazing. (In ALL of my travels, this is in my top three for accommodation!) Nothings beats waking up to the sound of howler monkeys every morning!
Howler monkeys in the trees outside my cabin at Finca Mystica on Ometepe
Other island highlights include:
- Café Campestre, a great lunch spot in Balgue
- San Ramon Waterfall (pictured below), a good hike that leads to small, picturesque waterfall
(Don’t rent a horse. It’s easier and less painful to hike. Trust me on this one.) - Ojo de Agua, a natural spring pool fed by an underground river from the Maderas volcano
- Playa Santa Domingo, a beautiful 4km long black sand beach
- Hiking the Maderas (6-8 hours) and Concepción (10 hours) volcanos
San Ramon Waterfall on Ometepe
The island is located in Lake Nicaragua, which is the rumored site of the proposed (and recently postponed) Nicaragua canal funded by a Chinese businessman. Transport: Ferries leave San Jorge regularly for Ometepe. Avoid the small ferries, which are sketchy and the bottom level floods. Opt for the larger three-level car ferries instead.
2. Granada
The colorful colonial streets of Granada are the most photogenic and best preserved in the country. Highlights include the Cathedral de Granada, the main icon of the city skyline, and Iglesia San Francisco, the oldest church in Central America that also houses a museum. Soy Nica is a great shop for locally made leather goods. For an amazing view of the city, climb the tower of Iglesia de La Merced in the late afternoon. Where to eat: The best lunch spots are El Garaje (one of my favorite meals in Nicaragua with a weekly rotating menu) or The Garden Café, a popular spot with large courtyard.
Sunset view of the Granada Cathedral from the tower of Iglesia de La Merced
3. Laguna de Apoyo
The giant crater lake is a short drive from Granada and is the clearest body of fresh water in the country. It was formed 23,000 years ago and was declared a nature reserve in 1991. There are a handful of accommodation options on the lake that offer kayaks and paddleboards. I highly recommend a sunrise kayak along the shoreline.
Sunrise at Hostel Paradiso at Laguna de Apoyo
4. León
The highlight of León for me was the roof tour of the cathedral (Basílica de la Asunción), which is the largest cathedral in Central America. Despite offering an amazing view of the city and surrounding volcanos, the maze-like rooftop itself was stunning. Shoes are not allowed because the roof was recently painted bright white.
Roof of Basílica de la Asunción in Leon
Another must-see is the Museo de Arte Fundación Ortiz-Gurdián, one of the finest contemporary art museums in Central America. Two beautiful old homes are filled with the works of Latin American masters including Diego Rivera and Fernando Botero along with a few big names like Picasso and Chagall. The $3 entrance fee was a steal.
The heavily decorated yellow façade of the 1786 Iglesia de Recolección in Leon
Where to eat in León: Be sure to stop for breakfast at Pan & Paz, grab an afternoon ice cream on a waffle cone (both are homemade) at Kiss Me and dinner at El Bodegon (my favorite restaurant in Nicaragua). It’s run by a Cuban chef and has a set 180 córdoba ($6) menu featuring giant quesadillas and Spanish tortillas.
5. Cerro Negro
Volcano boarding at Cerro Negro, a 728-meter active volcano, was on my bucket list. The volcano is named for the layer of volcanic rocks that cover its slopes. (The last eruptions was 1999.) Many tour companies like El Perezoso offer the day trip for $30 USD from León and provide boards (homemade sleds) and safety gear. It took a little less than an hour to hike to the top with my board strapped to my back and less than two minutes to come down! (It honestly was nowhere near as scary as I thought.) Go early to beat the crowds and party hostels who arrive around 9:30 a.m.
Volcano boarding on Cerro Negro near León
Meet Alfred – the Globetrotting Gnome
Clockwise from top left: Machu Pichu, Peru; Havana, Cuba; Chichen Itza, Mexico; Maldives
For the past eight years, I have traveled the world solo with my little photogenic gnome. Alfred’s been my favorite travel buddy since our paths crossed on the garden aisle of a supermarket in Sydney. Since then, we’ve been to five continents together and countless road trips in the U.S.
The idea to photograph a gnome did not come from Travelocity or the French film Amélie. (I saw the movie years later.) It started at 6 a.m. in June of 2006 when I picked up my best friend from high school for an East Coast road trip to Maine from my hometown in South Carolina. I noticed Harvey on the porch when we were leaving. He was laying on his side and covered in a layer of spider webs. I instantly knew he was coming with us.
The original gnome Harvey (who closely resembles Happy the dwarf from Snow White) in Maine in July 2006.
Some frat boys stole Harvey off my friend’s porch a few years later. My first gnome was Albert. He met a tragic end in Niagara Falls. My second gnome was Walt. He was about 18 inches tall with a little bird on his head. When I moved to Australia in 2008, there was no room for him in my suitcase so he went to live with my nephew. I was gnomeless for a few months until that day in Sydney when I stumbled upon a little row of travel-sized gnomes. (Alfred is 8.5 inches tall.)
Alfred barely survived a traumatic experience at the Leh airport in Northern India in 2011. As I was being patted down by an airport security guard, the luggage conveyer belt got jammed, and my bag tumbled to the ground. Alfred was in pieces, and I cried the entire one-hour flight to Delhi. I quickly learned the Hindi word for “superglue” and went off to find a market. My amazing friend, Justin, helped glue him back together. (REAL friends stay up late to help you glue your gnome back together even though you have to be up at 5 a.m. to go to the Taj Mahal.) When I got back to the States, I went straight to a hardware store and bought some spray foam insulation to make Alfred a bit sturdier.
Justin helps glue Alfred back together in Agra after his tragic airport accident in India.
Alfred now travels in a $40 indestructible Pelican case. I keep a 4×6 photo collage (like the first image in this post) with him just in case I need to provide explanation at the airport. He is pretty popular among the airport security staff. In Costa Rica, one of the guards asked me to open the case and called all the other guards over to meet Alfred. They all flooded me with questions: “What’s his name?” “Where’s he been?” Meanwhile, my friends were all convinced I was being arrested.
Alfred’s Pelican Travel Case
I started photographing Alfred everywhere I went but mostly in places with iconic backgrounds that could be easily recognized. I also started making gnome Christmas cards for my friends every year and a few other holiday-themed cards (Easter, St. Patrick’s Day, etc.) that I sold at art shows occasionally. Every year it takes hours and hours to make, write and mail all my Christmas cards to my amazing friends who are scattered across the globe. My goal is always to make them smile, and it’s my favorite part of the holidays. Everyone needs a gnome in their mailbox!
Most of all, I hope Alfred inspires people to travel. If a tiny green gnome can travel the world, why can’t you?
To see more of Alfred’s adventures, check out his travel gallery!