How a Family Spent a Year Traveling

How a Family Spent a Year Traveling

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The McGuinness family did the five-day Salkantay trek to Machu Picchu. (All photographs courtesy of the McGuinness family.)

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In Sucre, Bolivia, I bumped into the McGuinness family at breakfast at our hostel. I was instantly inspired by their story – a family of four traveling together for a year! Cath shares all the details of their trip including finances, their teenage daughters’ school schedule and great advice for all travelers! 

 

Name: The McGuinness Family: Rob (age 52), Cath (age 50), Beth (age 16), and Megs (age 14)
(Cath is a General Practitioner, and Rob is an Urban Designer.)
Hometown: Truro, Cornwall SW England
Blog: https://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog/mcgrtwtrip/1/tpod.html

 

1. How far in advance did you start planning your year abroad?

Four years ago, Rob and I had a conversation in the truck on the way home [to England] from a great camping holiday in France saying, “Wouldn’t it be wonderful if we could travel for a year?” We realized there was one specific year when it worked with the girls’ school – September 2014.

We just needed money. Over the next few months, I kept my eyes open for a house. We found a tiny, basic two-bedroom cottage, which we liked a lot and had potential. Big decision to buy it and sell our main house, but we eventually took the plunge and bought. It took two years to sell our main house, which was a disaster. It was a huge financial struggle, renting out the cottage, both having to work 60-70 hours per week, but eventually, we bought our rucksacks and boots, booked our tickets in early September 2014 and were going!

 

Family RTW Trip: Great Barrier Reef

The McGuinness Family at the Great Barrier Reef in Australia (All photographs courtesy of the McGuinness family.)

 

2. What was your route on the trip?

Our flights took us through Greece (island hopping to get into the backpacking routine), then to India (mainly Rajasthan), on to Nepal and the Annapurna circuit, Hong Kong for a few days, and then, Australia in a camper van down the East Coast to Melbourne. We went onward to New Zealand, then flew across to Chile, Bolivia and Peru, before flying up to the California coast, and the final five days in the Big Apple – New York – before arriving home in June 2015. Our trip was cut short due to issues with my work, but in the end, that turned out to be a good thing. We were traveled out after ten months, I think. It felt right to be going home.

 

 

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Left: Starting out on the Annapurna trek in Nepal; Right: A wild river crossing on the trek.

 

3. Share one of your travel highlights.

There were highlights and low lights – highlights were to me, the camel trek overnight in the desert in Rajasthan – wonderful. I’ll never forget the laughs we had on those camels, the wonderful guides and herders – so helpful and kind; watching them cook from nothing, producing the most amazing meal as the night fell over the sand and sleeping under the stars. Some of the treks in New Zealand were really beautiful, and as a family, we worked really well together when there was something active going on. Learning to dive on the Great Barrier Reef. The Salkantay trek in Peru to Machu Picchu was also a real highlight. Favorite cities were New York, Sydney and San Francisco. Don’t miss staying in Undarra near Cairns and visiting the lava tubes if you’re close!

Lows were hitting the blizzard on the Annapurna circuit, which killed some 200 people – we were half way up when it hit and had to turn around from our trek. It really was an education to see and hear the stories of fellow trekkers that had been caught right in the storm and sad to see the terrible losses of foreigners and Nepalese.

 

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With the help of friends back home, Cath and Rob made sure their daughters Beth, age 16, and Megs, age 14, did not fall behind in their education while traveling. They planned the trip according to their daughters’ school schedules.

 

4. How did you manage your daughters’ education/school schedule during the trip?

Education was easy in some ways – I did the sciences, math and French. Rob did geography and history, and a friend of ours, who teaches English, helped us with that online. We had little help from [Megs’] old school regarding the curriculum. She certainly wasn’t behind when we got back.

For Beth, we worked through some of her math, she did geography with Rob and French by herself (unsuccessfully). The difficult bit about home education whilst travelling was that you’re moving around all the time so there is no routine, and Wi-Fi is very, and, I mean, very variable.

The main part of our work was done in Australia and New Zealand when we had a car or camper. The moving around was easier, and we could organize lesson times more easily and still see what we wanted. We had to be really strict about it at times, and there were arguments, but overall, it went well considering the circumstances.

It was hard sometimes for them to see the relevance of some subjects but on the other hand – why just read about glaciers, volcanoes and lava tubes if you can walk up them? See the effects of earthquakes in Christchurch? Learn about our part in the history of Sydney, the silver mines in Bolivia and its’ relationship to the American dollar, and checking out buildings built by the Incas in Peru? And, also learning about people around the world, different cultures and different languages. Our girls saw poverty, struggle and disease.  People coping with those lives and living good lives. At the same time, they were on Snapchat when there was Wi-Fi and seeing their friends at parties back home and seeing all the squabbles, good and bad times there, and comparing the two. Interesting stuff.

 

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The McGuinness family took an overnight camel trek in Rajasthan, India, which one of the main highlights of their trip.

 

5. What was your greatest struggle?

The biggest negatives travelling as a family were also at times the biggest positives. I suppose that’s the big myth – that it’s all a big happy family all the way, and no one argues.

We had a really tight budget – always in family rooms or camping apart from a few places in Bolivia because it was so much cheaper. We had real problems with teenage moods – hellish at times. There was nowhere for anyone to go. You can’t just say to go upstairs and have some time out, go see a friend, or go for a walk because it was often too dangerous to let them walk alone. We were absolutely stuck together and that really did create problems at times.

Activities like the walking treks and climbing were the best because we all had some space. We all needed it at times. Conversely, it was also great at times to be altogether – music in the car, hiking in the most amazing places, travelling in big cities, meals together all the time, campfires and camp cooking. We have learned to live with disagreements better, I think, and we all know each other really well! Not sure if that’s good or bad!

 

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Rob and Cath McGuinness at Salar de Uyuni. They spent almost five weeks in Bolivia traveling with their two daughters.

 

6. What was your budget for the trip?

It’s really hard doing it on a budget as well, but we got better at it and in the main stayed within our budget of around £200 for everything per day. Easy in India, difficult in Australia (camper van hire was £80 per day before petrol, campsite fees and then food) or the U.S.

 

7. Can you share some advice for families wanting to do the same?

Be prepared for things not to be perfect, for things to go wrong and arguments. It is really stressful travelling as a group. You can’t just turn up somewhere without having a room booked or change plans at the last minute, and we struggled with our budget to find suitable places sometimes for the girls that felt safe. The things you think are going to be the best aren’t always, and other bits will surprise and delight when you least expect it. It wasn’t a holiday – a lot of it was really hard work. Rob and I were often tired holding things together, but the good bits outweigh the bad overall, and it was a real experience. I look back at the blog and photos and can’t believe all the things we did. I’m glad we went.

Since returning home, I’ve been really ill – out of the blue. I am recovering now, but I wouldn’t be able to plan the trip we’ve done now and so that makes it all the better that we went when we did. You never know what’s round the corner, and my advice to anyone thinking about a trip like this is that if you can do it, then get on and do it.

There’ll never be a perfect time.
It is hard, but the memories are worth it, and you may not have the chance again. 

 

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8. Name three things you always pack for a trip.

A good rucksack, unlocked iPhone (great camera, video and iPod) and a really good pair of boots that work as walking boots but also for walking round town in your jeans. (We splashed out on family Timberlands – they were great!)

 

9. What’s your next adventure?

Our next family adventure is building the extension on our cottage and finishing the girls’ education – we can’t live forever in a two-bedroom house. Although, after some of the places we stayed when travelling, it still feels big! I need fewer “things” after travelling, and we are all aware how lucky we are to live and work in the UK.

For more details about the McGuinness family trip around the world, check out their Travel Pod page: https://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog/mcgrtwtrip/1/tpod.html

A Photo Guide to Peru’s Sacred Valley

A Photo Guide to Peru’s Sacred Valley

Sometimes, food poisoning can be a good thing.

I mean that.

Thanks to a lovely case of dysentery or perhaps, it was some horrible Oregon Trail disease that I picked up in Bolivia, I arrived in Peru much earlier than planned. After I regained my appetite, I spent almost two weeks photographing all the amazing sites and countless alpacas around Cuzco, the gateway city to Machu Picchu.

Photo Guide to Peru's Sacred Valley:

Sacsaywamàn is the most impressive set of Inca ruins in close proximity to Cuzco, Peru. It is accessible by bus or a hiking trail.

The majority of the people I met were simply rushing to get to Machu Picchu without taking the time to explore the Sacred Valley, which lies 15 kilometers north of Cuzco. If I hadn’t picked up that nasty stomach bug in Bolivia, I might have missed out on some spectacular Inca ruins, herds of fluffy alpacas and postcard-worthy towns myself!

The dry season in Peru runs from May until September, which makes NOW the perfect time to explore the Sacred Valley and acclimatize to the altitude before heading to Machu Picchu.

TIP: Before leaving Cuzco, purchase an official tourist ticket (boleto turístico), which offers access to 17 sites over a 10-day period including Cuzco museums and four of the Inca ruins below. Boleto turísticos ($40 USD) are required, and only partial tickets ($22) are available at each site. A student ticket is only $25 with ID. Full tickets can be purchased at the COSITUC office at 103 Avenida del Sol in central Cuzco. Here are the best things to do in Cuzco, Peru. 

Five Day Trips Near Cuzco, Peru

Photo Guide to Peru's Sacred Valley: Sacsaywamàn

Only 20% of the original structure of Sacsaywamàn remains including some of the largest stones, which were too difficult to be moved. The most impressive feat of Inca ruins is the precision fit of each stone. I posed for a photo just for perspective!


1. Sacsaywamàn

Although Sacsaywamàn is technically not in the Sacred Valley, these impressive ruins on the edge of Cuzco include three tiers of zigzagged walls, which are significant from both a military and religious standpoint. The Inca’s envisioned Cuzco to be in the shape of a puma and the zigzag formations are said to be the puma’s teeth. In 1536, the Inca’s were tragically defeated here by the Spanish, who tore down many of the walls to build houses.

The best time to visit is sunrise when the ruins are empty and herds of alpacas wander through for perfect photo opportunities. (Of the five places listed, this has the heaviest amount of llama/alpaca traffic. FYI: I love alpacas!) The site is accessible by a two kilometer uphill trek from Plaza de Armas or by public bus. For safety reasons, avoid walking alone at sunrise. (I went at sunrise with two other people, and we had no issues.)

Photo Guide to Peru's Sacred Valley: Pisac

The colonial village of Pisac and its’ famous Inca ruins are 33 kilometers northeast of Cuzco and are accessible by public bus.

 

2. Pisac

The colonial village of Pisac is known for two things: a bustling market and the grand Inca fortress hovering above the city. While Tuesday, Thursday and Sunday are official market days, the market is so popular that it’s open to some extent every day. On market days, bus tours bring in hordes of people to the town and ruins. The main portion of hillside Inca citadel is a 30-minute walk from the entrance and is rarely visited. (Bus tours do not allow enough time to visit this section.) The best way to visit is to take a local bus from Cuzco to the town of Pisac. Then, walk the steep uphill four kilometer trail (two hours) to the ruins or take a taxi from town. Pack lots of snacks and water!

Photo Guide: Ollantaytambo, Scared Valley, Peru

Ollantaytambo lies in a valley between two impressive Inca fortresses. It is also the main train stop en route to Agua Calientes.

 

3. Ollantaytambo

The picturesque town of Ollantaytambo is guarded by an impressive Inca fortress and temple lined with terraces linked by steep, lung-busting staircases. The city is a main transport hub between Cuzco and Machu Picchu and is very peaceful once the afternoon crowds depart. The quaint Inca village is filled with narrow cobblestone streets paralleled by irrigation channels. It has been inhabited consistently since the 13th century. Spend a couple days hiking and exploring nearby ruins. I stayed at Casa de Wow—a cute place with an excellent view of the ruins!

Photo Guide to Peru's Sacred Valley: Salinas

Visitors are allowed to walk on footpaths between the salt pools at Salinas, which have been in use since Inca times.

 

4. Salinas

Salinas is one of the most spectacular sites in the entire Sacred Valley—a mountain valley filled with hundreds of salt pools. The pools are fed from a hot spring of heavily salt-laden water, and the salt is harvested for cattle licks. Getting to Salinas on your own involves multiple forms of transport and wastes a good part of the day. A day tour from Cuzco ($10 USD) will save you time and hassle, and will allow you to also visit Moray (below). Tours will stop at an aerial viewpoint, then continue to the main entrance. Admission ($1.50 USD) is not included in the boleto turístico.

Photo Guide to Peru's Sacred Valley: Moray

The terraces of Moray are not as crowded as other prime sites in the Sacred Valley like Pisac or Ollantaytambo.

 

5. Moray

The amphitheater-like terraces of Moray are stunning. Each of the three sets of terraces are carved into the earth like a tiered bowl. Each level has its own microclimate, which the Incas are theorized to have used to determine the optimal growing conditions for various species of crops. A day tour from Cuzco is the fastest, cheapest and easiest option to visit both Moray and Salinas above. Otherwise, a public bus can drop you off at the Moray turnoff, where taxis gather in high season.

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I met these cute little alpacas on my sunrise hike to Sacsaywamàn. (There was an alpaca or llama in 90% of my photos from Peru.)


WHEN TO GO TO CUZCO, Peru

June through August is peak season with the biggest crowds and festivals. Crowds thin in September and October. November through March are pretty wet. I went in late April, and the weather was fine! Temperatures are in the 60’s year-round, but nights are cold so stock up on llama sweaters and socks!

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COMING UP:

In the next Travel Tuesday Interview, I talk with Cath McGuinness about how her family of four spent almost a year traveling around the world! Sign up for more interviews from inspiring travelers on my home page!

McGuinness Family

Funding a RTW Trip by Teaching English in Korea

Funding a RTW Trip by Teaching English in Korea

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Kaleena Quarles funded her round-the-world trip by teaching English in Korea and spent time volunteering with elephants in Thailand. (All photos courtesy of Kaleena Quarles.)

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One of the best ways to BOTH save money and TRAVEL is to teach English abroad. A few years ago, I met Kaleena Quarles through Couchsurfing.com when I moved to California. She let me sleep on her couch for a few days while I found my own apartment. She left to teach English in Korea a few months later, and I’ve followed her adventures relentlessly ever since. Kaleena talks about teaching in Korea and saving for her current round-the-world trip!

 

Name: Kaleena Quarles
Age: 29
Hometown: Ukiah, California
Country count: 31
Blog/Website: kaleenaskaleidoscope.com


1. How did you start traveling?

I was lucky enough to grow up in a family that took lots of vacations. We’d go to places like Hawaii and the Caribbean, and even spent a month in Europe. But, my first long-term backpacking experience was when I was 22, and I spent three months in South America. After that, travel became an addiction; it became my main passion and priority. I was constantly scheming ways to save money and squeeze in more trips.

 

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Kaleena taught English in both Thailand (above) and Korea to fund her RTW trip. (All photography by Kaleena Quarles)

 

2. Why did you decide to teach English in Korea? Tell us about your experience. 

Teaching English in Korea killed two birds with one stone: I had always dreamed of living abroad, and I wanted to have a job that would allow me to save a lot of money in a short period of time. I was able to save $28,000 in Korea in two years while still taking plenty of vacations and eating ridiculously well. My experience in Korea was a mixed bag; I was dealt a really challenging job and had my differences with the culture, but there were certain things I loved (the food!), and I definitely have no regrets about the experience.

As for advice on teaching English in Korea, I’d say go for it! But, before accepting a position, do some research on the company. Ask if you can speak with another employee, ask about things like vacation and pay, etc. Some academies are great, but there are definitely dodgy ones out there that take advantage of foreign teachers so go with your gut before signing a contract. You can look on Dave’s ESL for jobs or try joining some Facebook groups and ask around, word-of-mouth is best.


3. Tell us about your most recent adventure.

When I left Korea last February, I embarked on a solo round-the-world trip. After a visit to the U.S., I traveled through Southeast Asia where I did everything from volunteering with elephants to training in Muay Thai to teaching English to getting my Advanced Scuba certification while diving on shipwrecks. Then, I headed to Australia and New Zealand where I cuddled koalas, worked on a farm, and [saw] the most breathtaking views ever. I’m currently living in New Zealand for a couple months until the travels continue. I’ll be hitting at least three more continents this year!


4. How do you fund your travels?

I saved like crazy during my two years in Korea to have a lump sum [$20,000 after pre-trip expenses] for my round-the-world trip. But, during my trip, I stretched the money by doing things like volunteering in exchange for accommodation, taking on short-term work contracts for teaching and farming, and staying with friends I’d met during my travels. I only paid for two nights’ accommodation during my three weeks in Australia thanks to having so many generous friends!

 

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Kaleena stopped in Bali, Indonesia as part of her ongoing round-the-world trip. (Photo courtesy of Kaleena Quarles.)

 

5. Share one of your travel highlights.

The time I spent in Thailand was my favorite part of the trip last year. I had the opportunity to teach English for a month to some really awesome high school students and gain a better understanding of Thai culture. Then, I spent a week volunteering at an elephant rehabilitation park and two weeks training in Muay Thai in the northern jungles. It was all such a wonderful, unique experience!


6. What was your greatest struggle while traveling and how did you overcome it?

Well, that’s hard to choose… Was it the food poisoning that resembled an exorcism? The infuriating sand fly bites that made me look like a horror film monster? The jellyfish stings that swelled my eyes shut? The foot infection that I nearly lost my leg from? Getting stranded in a swamp during a monsoon? There are so many challenges when traveling, but the best way to deal with any of them is with a sense of humor. Sometimes the only way to cope is to laugh it off and know that it’ll make for a great story!


7. What advice would you have for aspiring travelers? Any tips for overcoming fear?

When I first started traveling, I met other female solo travelers and thought they were crazy. It just seemed so undoable to me. I didn’t jump straight into a solo round-the-world trip. I began with smaller trips with friends and worked my way up to bigger trips, eventually going on my own. So, I would suggest starting with what you’re comfortable with and easing into it. It’s all a learning process, but the most important thing is to just go for it!

 

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Kaleena did a safari in the Namibia Desert before heading to Greece to volunteer at a refugee camp. (Photo courtesy of Kaleena Quarles)


8. What is the biggest myth about traveling solo?

I think there are a lot of myths like that it’s unsafe, lonely and more difficult than traveling with someone, but I can say hands down that none of that is true! You should always take precautions when traveling, whether alone or not. Making friends while traveling alone is so easy because it makes you more approachable and people are often curious about you. And, when you travel alone, you don’t have to worry about compromising with anyone else on what to do—your itinerary is completely up to your own whim. Feel like sleeping in until noon and lying by the pool all day? Lounge away!


9. Name three things you always pack for a trip.

  • Bikini: I’m a water baby and always hope there is some form of swimming to be done. Or at least a hot tub!
  • Camera: Whether it’s my DSLR, GoPro or just my iPhone, I always make sure I have something to document my (ridiculous) adventures.
  • Sunblock: Because I don’t want wrinkles to give away how old I’m actually getting.


10. What is your next adventure?

I’m heading to Africa! I have zero plans and a one-way ticket to Cape Town, South Africa so it should be the ultimate adventure! Follow Kaleena’s travels at kaleenaskaleidoscope.com!

 

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Want to teach English abroad?

For details about teaching English in Korea and other countries, check out my post about working abroad!

What is the REAL cost of long-term travel?

Check out the graphical breakdown of the cost of my seven-month Latin America trip HERE!

 

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COMING UP:

A Guide to Peru’s Sacred Valley

Summer is the peak travel season for Machu Picchu and Peru. Next week, I’ll be posting a detailed guide (including logistics) to five amazing places to visit in the nearby Sacred Valley. Give yourself a few extra days to enjoy the area and don’t rush to Machu Picchu!

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Peru’s Sacred Valley: Inca ruins of Sacsaywamán (left) and Salinas Salt Pools (right)


TRAVEL TUESDAY INTERVIEW:
How a Family of Four Spent a Year Traveling

 In the next Travel Tuesday Interview, I talk with Cath McGuinness about how her family of four spent almost a year traveling around the world! Sign up below for more interviews from inspiring travelers!

Peace Corps: Life in Madagascar

Peace Corps: Life in Madagascar

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No matter where I travel, I always meet Peace Corps volunteers. A few years ago, I met Jessie Beck in Thailand when she was on vacation from her positon as a Peace Corps volunteer in Madagascar. Jessie gives us all the details and tips for life in the international service organization run by the U.S. government.

Teaching in Peace Corps

Jessie Beck spent 27 months teaching English in a small village called Antanifotsy in Madagascar. (Photography courtesy of Jessie Beck.)

Name: Jessie Beck
Age: 27
Hometown: Arlington, Virginia (Currently based in San Francisco)
Country count:  30+
Blog/Website: beatnomad.com

1. How did you start traveling?

My parents took me on my first international trip when I was one to visit Paris for France’s bicentennial. I just happen to share a birthday with France, and I guess they thought it’d be cute. Growing up, my dad would always joke that I’d have to go back for my 100th birthday.

2. Tell us about your experience in Madagascar in the Peace Corps.

I joined the Peace Corps in 2011 and was there for the standard 27 months of service as an Education volunteer. This meant that I taught English in a public middle school in a small village called Antanifotsy (which means place of the white land) outside of Antsirabe (place of lots of salt). I was the only volunteer in my village, but there were three [volunteers] that lived in Antsirabe so I ended up going there most weekends.

Peace Corps Volunteer School

Peace Corps volunteers work in three sectors: education, agriculture and health. (Photography courtesy of Jessie Beck.)

3. What were the main roles of Peace Corps volunteers in Madagascar?

Peace Corps actually shifted their focus halfway through my service. When I started, they had four sectors: education, health, environment, and small business development. About halfway through, however, a new mandate from Washington stated that countries should have no more than three sectors, so environment and small business development sort of merged into one agriculture sector.


4. How much vacation time did you have in the Peace Corps? Where did you travel?

Peace Corps may not pay well [scroll down for pay details], but they’re pretty generous with vacation. We get two days per month of service, with the ability to use them in advance of actually serving the months for which we accrued vacation days. All in all, that means we had about 52 days throughout our service to play with.

One caveat: Technically, we’re “working” seven days a week, 365 days per year. So, vacation days had to be used to travel on weekends. Most volunteers got away with not taking vacation days for weekend trips in country (we could also travel to a nearby town for “banking purposes”), but if we went abroad, we had to use them. Basically, we were supposed to use vacation for every day that we weren’t “at site.”

Madagascar is both huge and isolated (I know it doesn’t look it on the map, but that’s probably because it’s next to Africa — also huge) so most of my trips were within the country. There’s so much to explore there—the natural parks like Andringitra, Isalo, and Ranomafana being the biggest highlights—and even though I traveled frequently, I still missed a few spots.

I also took two international trips: one to Thailand (where I met Anna!) and one to Reunion, a nearby French territory that’s one of the most amazing destinations I’ve ever been to. Seriously, it’s the perfect place for anyone who loves adventure travel, tropical fruit and a cafe where you can find a good espresso.

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Ile Saint Marie was one of Jessie’s favorite spots in Madagascar. (All photographs courtesy of Jessie Beck)

5. Share one of your travel highlights. 

About halfway through my service, a fellow PCV (Peace Corps Volunteer) and I were biking around Ile Saint Marie when a tropical downpour sent us running for cover. We ended up in this tiny three-room hotel and ordered coffee.

We were the only ones there, and the rain wouldn’t stop so after awhile my friend got to chatting with the owner, a middle-aged Malagasy woman, and I was talking with her daughter. Within an hour, the daughter and I were goofing off and watching cartoons while the mom and my friend were gossiping and pulling apart cassava leaves to make lunch.

I had several moments like these, and these fast and warm friendships really made me appreciate getting to serve in Madagascar. It’s this idea of “mandrosoa” or welcoming/inviting in that I always loved most about Malagasy culture—even if a lot of locals lamented about how it wasn’t as strong as the old days.

6. What was your greatest struggle and how did you overcome it?

Fear of missing out and not feeling like a real 20-something. While my friends at home were dating, getting careers, working out at the gym and going out to dinners/concerts/drinks, I was sitting in a dusty village cafe chatting about how it’s a great day to do laundry. Sometimes, the slowness could be tedious and made me feel older than I was.

I tried to cope by seeing other volunteers often, working out with videos, and eventually with distance cycling, but when I got home, I was definitely excited to do all of those little everyday things we take for granted like going on a date or taking a yoga class.

Madagascar SandMtPalms Meadow Isalo

Isalo National Park is one of the many places Jessie visited during her time in Peace Corps.


7. What is the biggest benefit of joining the Peace Corps? What type of person should join?

There’s lots: you can grow, have adventures, learn a new language and be in a place long enough to truly understand it and bring that understanding back home with you. However, one of my biggest motivations for joining was the alumni network. PCVs are such a tight knit group of people and a wonderful network to be a part of!

However, if you’re not cut out for it, there’s the risk of doing more harm than good. Definitely join because you want to do Peace Corps, not because you don’t know what else to do with your life. Be committed to the organization, but simultaneously flexible and willing to adapt to whatever comes your way!

Madagascar Isalo ClimberJess

Jessie hiking in Isalo National Park, Madagascar.

8. What advice would you have for aspiring solo travelers? Any tips for overcoming fear?

I guess my biggest tip is:

The reality of traveling solo is never as scary as it seems and neither is making friends.

 

9. Name three things you always pack for a trip.

A collapsible water bottle (the Platypus), a bar of soap (so I can hand wash clothes if necessary), and one outfit/top I feel cute in.


10. What is your next adventure?

Hopefully, biking through Sweden with the boyfriend this summer! I can’t wait to experience a place that has 24 hours of sunshine!

 

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PEACE CORPS Details

HOW LONG: 27 Months

PAY & BENEFITS: During the time of service, volunteers receive a stipend for housing/food costs. Health insurance is provided. Other benefits include foreign language training and student loan deferment/cancelation. After completing their service, volunteers are paid $8,000 pre tax to use as they wish. Other benefits are listed here.

Check out my recent post about working abroad for more opportunities!

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COMING UP:

In the next Travel Tuesday Interview, I talk with Cath McGuinness about how her family of four spent almost a year traveling around the world! Sign up below for more interviews from inspiring travelers!

McGuinness Family


TRAVEL WITH ME:

Follow my summer travels on Instagram!  Alfred the gnome and I are in the middle of a cross-country road trip!

Interview with the (solo) Traveling Granny

Interview with the (solo) Traveling Granny

Traveling Granny logo
Merrilee Davis is my hero. The self-proclaimed “Traveling Granny” started traveling solo in 2011 at age 64. I met her on a ferry from Panama to Cartagena, Colombia last year. Every time, I bumped into her in Cartagena she was practicing her Spanish with the locals, eating street food and always smiling. If the Traveling Granny can travel solo, why can’t you?

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Merrilee Davis, 68,  just returned from a five month trip in India and Sri Lanka, which included an overnight camel safari in Rajasthan, India. She has been traveling solo for four years. (All photographs courtesy of Merrilee Davis.)

 

Name: Merrilee Davis
Age: 68
Hometown: North Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada
Country count: 18 + including Mexico, Guatemala, Honduras, Nicaragua, Costa Rica, Panama, Colombia, Ecuador, Bolivia, Peru, Trinidad, Thailand, Laos, Vietnam, Cambodia, Sri Lanka, and India

1. How did you start traveling?

I use to travel with my husband on short trips away from our holiday home in Mexico. My first trip alone was to Guatemala to study Spanish for six weeks. I was very nervous to go on that first trip alone to what I thought would be a very undeveloped country. When I arrived, I loved my experience there! I stayed with a local family and studied five days a week for five hours each day in a school with a one-on-one teacher/student program. On Friday afternoons after class, I would hop the local chicken buses and head off solo to places in Guatemala to experience them for the weekend. It was then that I realized that it was not so scary [to travel solo], and I had the courage to just step out and get to know this country. I have been back three or four times since and having learned Spanish over the years has helped me in my travels in Central and South America. At my age, it is hard to learn a new language, but I again jump into just using it the best I can when I am traveling. The locals love that I am at least trying to speak Spanish. I think they also get lots of amusement out of the way I word things. Learning to laugh at oneself is part of the experience and to not to get hung up on being perfect.

 

Ecuador_Bolivia

Left: Ciudad Perdida ruins, Colombia; Right: Salar de Uyuni (famous salt flats), Bolivia

 

2. How did you start traveling solo in your 60s?

After I left my marriage and spending every winter in our place in Mexico, I decided to explore more of the world. As I am thrifty, I chose places that were cheaper but fun. Spending mega bucks on a fancy hotel is not my idea of traveling nor is going with a tour group. I feel that I miss the interaction with the culture and locals if I get herded along with lots of other tourists. So, off I go backpacking with the young people but doing my own thing. They are either in awe of the traveling granny or totally ignore this older/gray-haired lady doing what they are doing. Actually, I do not choose hostels to stay in unless they have a private room. As I travel, I send emails to many of my friends and family with updates on my trip. I started to sign them “Traveling Granny” as I am now a grandmother seven times over. I so enjoy traveling solo as I have the time and flexibility to change plans at a whim without lots of discussion. Many times I have changed direction travelling, changed plans and being by myself, it is really easy to do this. No one to blame if I make a bad choice or decision. When I head off to a new country, I do very little research beforehand. I get off the plane with my travel book and tablet and start going. For me, it works to only make hotel reservations for those few nights when I arrive in a country if it is a long plane ride.  After that, I find my accommodations as I go.

3. Tell us about your most recent adventure.

I just came back from India. All I can say is I cannot wait to go back. Such a huge country and so much to do and see.

4. How did you fund your travels?

I have enough money to travel the way I do as it is not expensive.  Before I would rent out my house for the five months, but after a bad experience, I decided to leave my nephew there and travel without worries. So, I did not need to save money as usually it is cheaper to travel than to stay in North Vancouver for the winter season. I have pensions that I use to travel and that covers the costs. The most expensive is usually the airfare to my destination and home.

Merrilee_train

Merrilee traveled by train across India. She spent five months in India and Sri Lanka from November 2015 until March 2016.


5. Share one of your travel highlights.

[The following is an excerpt from Merrilee’s Traveling Granny emails from India]

The train pulls in and we all scramble, sometimes in the dark, to find our car number then seat or bench. On my last train ride, three guys were all on my lower seat, so I moved along to another compartment and joined a family and warmed the kids up to this grandma. The little gal, about four, was talking to me as though I understood everything. So, I just made up things to answer, and we had great fun. Lots of smiles and laughter.

Vendors going up and down the aisles with water, Chai, coffee, food, oranges, lassie (bit like a milkshake), and they must repeat the item billions of times in their lives in a shortened format or sing-song voice. The train food is very cheap, but one must be careful not to try it all. Who knows where it has been prepared.

6. What was your greatest struggle and how did you overcome it?

I can’t think of a great struggle. I do have difficulties seeing the abuse of the dogs in many countries. The mange, broken bones, lack of water and food for mostly the street dogs just pulls at my heart strings.

Maybe another struggle or difficulty is getting ready to leave my place for four to five months. Making sure I have thought of everything to pack and also taking care of what may need attention when I am away. I am learning that I am always a little anxious when I first head off to a new country, but when I land and start travelling that nervousness goes away. Stepping out of my comfort zone and leaping into the great unknown of a new country is always a mixture of emotions.

 

Merrilee_columns_bike_combined

Left: Jain temple in Ranakpur, Rajasthan, India; Right: Murud, a small town on the beach south of Mumbai, India


7. What advice would you have for aspiring travelers over age 60? Any tips for overcoming fear?

I am still asking people what they are afraid of! So many of my friends say they are living vicariously through me as I travel. Why they do not get off the couch and do it themselves is a mystery. Sometimes, it is health or not enough money, but in most cases, they say they are afraid and that I am so brave. For me, it is a challenge, but I have life-changing experiences. I meet a few other solo women around my age when traveling but not many.


8. What is the biggest myth about traveling solo?

Not sure what this means, but sometimes people say that I will get mugged, raped, robbed. Actually at this age, the locals are very respectful of me and helpful. Having traveled for quite a few years now by myself, I have learned more travel smarts. I am very fit, energetic and active for my age so very little holds me back from experiencing it all out there. This last trip in India the men were always curious as to why I travel solo and they were intrigued with my contentedness without a man. I never felt threatened or afraid in India the whole time I was there.


9. Name three things you always pack for a trip.

  •  I always pack my double-bed silk liner. May not use it much, but if sheets are suspect or a non-existent top sheet or whenever it seems sketchy, I pull out my liner. Bought it in Vietnam, and it packs up very small in my backpack.
  • Silicone ear plugs that mold beautifully into the ears. I take at least three pair of these, and they are a god-send at times. I do not use them all that much, but when needed on trains, buses, noisy hotels or guest houses, they are fabulous at blocking out the racket.
  • Woven water-bottle holder that I bought in Guatemala. I carry a metal thermos that I can refill, and it fits perfectly in the holder. This frees up my hands as it is on a strap and also keeps the liquid cooler longer.


10. What is your next adventure?

I think back to India in the fall.

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COMING UP:

In the next Travel Tuesday Interview, I talk with Jesse Beck, a former Peace Corps volunteer in Madagascar about her experience. Sign up below for more interviews from inspiring travelers!

Peace_corps

 

TRAVEL WITH ME:

Follow my summer travels on Instagram! Next week, Alfred the gnome and I head out on a road trip through the Southwestern U.S. via Antelope Canyon, Phoenix and White Sands National Park in New Mexico!

Travel Tuesday Interview Series

Travel Tuesday Interview Series

Travel Tuesday Interviews

TT Interview

Clockwise from top left: Merrilee Davis, the solo Traveling Granny; the McGuinness family, a family of four who spent a year abroad; Jessie Beck, Peace Corps volunteer in Madagascar; Kaleena Quarrels, a former English teacher in Korea.

 

My favorite part about traveling is the people I meet along the way.

I have felt like an outcast my entire life. First, I was the girl with glasses AND braces. When I started traveling solo in college, I was even more of an outcast. Everyone thought I was crazy. When I left to study abroad in England, I started meeting people who were doing the exact same thing—traveling the world solo! They also refused to spend their entire lives waiting on other people to travel with them. There were times that I felt I connected more with a stranger in 15 minutes than people I had known my entire life. These strangers understood me in ways that only another traveler could. I didn’t have to explain why I was traveling, the sacrifices I made to be on the road or why sitting still made me stir crazy.  We shared the same goals and struggle. Those people became some of my closest friends.

Last year, I met the Traveling Granny in Colombia—a 68-year-old woman from Vancouver who has been traveling solo for years. At a hostel in Surce, Bolivia, I met a British family of four who sold their house to travel for a year. From Peace Corps volunteers to English teachers in Korea to location-independent entrepreneurs to expert couchsurfers, I’ve met people who made travel and adventure their top priority. They have both challenged and inspired me. After all, courage is contagious.

As a journalist, I felt it was my duty to share their stories. After months of countless emails, I am launching my Travel Tuesday Interview Series next week! The series will feature interviews with inspiring travelers from across the world. Each shares their journey, struggles and travel/packing tips.

I am not the only person out there traveling the world. You are not the only person who wants to travel. Above all, I hope these stories give you that little nudge of courage to make travel a priority. You are not alone. 🙂

Feel free to share with anyone in need of a bit of travel inspiration. Follow along and sign up below to have the interviews delivered straight to your inbox.

COMING UP: The Travel Tuesday Interview Series starts with the solo Traveling Granny, 68-year-old Merrilee Davis, who has traveled solo across Latin America, Sri Lanka and India!

TRAVEL WITH ME: Follow my summer travels on Instagram! I’ll be in Iceland, Phoenix and everywhere in between!

A Guide to Working Abroad

A Guide to Working Abroad

Sydney, Australia Opera House

I miss seeing the Sydney Opera house everyday.

When I lived in Australia in 2008-9, I worked at a bar with a great view of the Sydney harbor. It was a great way to both fund my travels and meet people. (For more about my year in Australia, check out the story I wrote for AFAR magazine.)

My goal in life is to work as many random jobs as possible because I believe it builds character and great life skills. I have waited tables, worked retail folding clothes at the mall, bartended, photographed everything from farmers to the Foo Fighters (Dave Grohl is my hero!) for a variety of magazines, taught English in Thailand, ran photo trips in Asia and taught photography classes at American universities.  After all, what pays the bills doesn’t define you. Your character is what defines you.

In my last post, I discussed the REAL cost of travel and broke down the cost of my 7-month Latin America trip.  Now, I have complied a guide of ways to work abroad to help extend both your travels and savings. I have done many of these myself and have met people doing every option listed below.

Whether you are 18 or 68, there’s plenty of options for everyone.


Working Holiday Visas

I lived in Australia for almost a year on a Working Holiday Visa. These types of visas allow 18- to 30-year-olds to work while they travel. I worked a few random bar jobs and also photographed bands for Rolling Stone magazine. (Pretty random, I know.)

  • Australia and New Zealand offer one-year visas for Americans and other many other nationalities aged 18-30, which allow you to work anywhere. Australia has a stipulation that you may not work for one employer for more than six months consecutively. Visa costs: $320 USD for Australia and $165 USD for New Zealand. Both visas include a stipulation that you must have at least $4,000-$5,000 in local currency in your bank account to enter the country, but they don’t always ask proof. (I was never asked in Australia.)
  • For students or recent graduates, there are similar visa programs in South Korea ($45 USD fee), Canada ($200 USD), Singapore ($150 USD fee) and Ireland ($300 USD fee). You must do these programs within 12-months of graduating. Here’s a great guide for Working Holiday programs for Americans.
  • If you have dual citizenship or you are NOT an American citizen, then consider looking into other Working Holiday Programs like Japan, Ireland, Italy and others. The programs in Australia and New Zealand are also open to a variety of different nationalities. There are far more opportunities available for non-U.S. citizens. For more info, this Linkedin article is a good resource.
  • If you are interested in living in a country, a Working Holiday Visa is a good place to start. It can open doors to future careers and other visa options. Many of my friends got residency or a long-term work visa by starting with the Working Holiday program.
  • Bunac is travel company that offers help with work visas for recent graduates (Ireland, intern in Britain, Canada), etc. They are great resource for information, but many of these programs you can apply for directly  without their help.
_DSC6698

I taught English to a kindergarten class at public school in Sisaket, Thailand. (Fridays were always pink shirt day.)

Teaching English

Teaching English is a great way to live abroad and fund your travels. I taught English in Thailand briefly and seriously considered similar opportunities in Korea and Japan. A Bachelor’s degree is required or preferred by many programs. A TEFL/TESOL certificate is not required for the programs listed below but can increase your salary. (FYI: I don’t have either certification. Private schools usually require it.) The highest paid programs are in Japan and Korea. Visas are almost always provided by employers.

The most established and highest paid programs provide the most training. Otherwise, be prepared to improvise. Be aware that many programs do not follow the traditional American/British school calendars for holidays (i.e. no Christmas break).

JAPAN

  • The Jet Program is the most distinguished English teaching program in the country.  Airfare is covered, and the salary is one of the highest in Japan. Housing and transport are subsidized. (A friend who did the program made $33,660 USD/year TAX FREE and only paid $130 USD in rent/month.) The application process is tedious and requires an interview at a Japanese consulate. A Bachelor’s degree is required. I applied once, got an interview but didn’t get the job. TIP: If you get an interview, be prepared to answer the following question: What would you say to a student who asked why the U.S. dropped the bomb on Hiroshima? (Yes, I was actually asked that question!)
  • Other large teaching programs in Japan include AEON, Amity, Altia, Nova and ECC (These are all recommendations from friends who have taught in Japan.)
  • For more info on Japan teaching programs and work visas, check out Tokyo Becky’s detailed guide!


KOREA

Most English teaching programs in Korea will cover airfare and accommodation. The application process can take a few months. An FBI background check is required a few months before leaving. (It’s not as scary as it sounds.) The best resource for jobs in Korea and other parts of the world is Dave’s ESL Café. Average salary is roughly $23,000 USD/year. Airfare, housing and visas are covered. Most start dates are in February or August. For more information, check out this guide to teaching in Korea.

THAILAND

I taught English briefly through AYC Thailand as a substitute teacher for a few weeks in a kindergarten class. Overall, it was a great experience. I’ve considered doing it again multiple times. I was paid 1,200 BHT/day ($34/USD) but would have made more if I had signed a contract with bonuses. Transport was covered from Bangkok to the teaching location. (I was eight hours away by train in a cool little town called Sisaket.) Since I was only substituting, my accommodation was covered so I lived on a few dollars a day. (I got free lunch at school.) Salaries are higher, and there are bonuses if you sign a semester contract. Public schools semesters run roughly from May to October and November to April.

Ajarn.com is a good resource for Thailand job postings. Many of my expat friends living and teaching in Thailand used this site.

OTHER LOCATIONS

  • Greenheart Travel also offers programs in Thailand, Europe, Colombia and other parts of the world. I was accepted to teach English in Medellin, Colombia through their program. (I accepted a photography teaching position in the U.S. instead.) The position was stipend-based, included the visa but did not include transport costs. I recommend the company. The staff was really nice!
  • Dave’s ESL Café also has a great job board for international opportunities.

Rice fields in Northern Thailand

Work Exchange

Work Exchange programs are a great way to volunteer your time in exchange for room and board. Many companies link hosts with volunteers. The time frame can range from days to months depending on the host. There is no age requirement, and it’s also possible to volunteer as a family with children. I’ve met many people during my travels who have used the programs below.

  • Wwoof.net specializes with opportunities on organic farms across the world.
  • WorkAway offers a variety of options including positons in schools, cafes, hostels and farms. Membership costs $29/USD per year. (I’ve stayed at many amazing hostels run by staff hired through Workaway and was offered a job at a few!)
  • HelpX is an alternative to Workaway that provides positions at hostels, ranches and many other options. It costs 20 Euros for two-year membership. (One of my friends is in New Zealand now working on a farm through HelpX.)

Now, I’ve given you a huge amount of options so I fully expect you all to go out and start exploring the world! You no longer have any EXCUSES!

COMING UP: Travel Tuesday Interview Series! I am starting a long-term series of interviews with inspiring people I’ve met in my travels including a 68-year-old solo traveling granny, a British family (with two teenage kids) who sold their house to travel for a year, Peace Corp volunteers, English teachers in Korea, travel entrepreneurs and MORE!

The Real Cost of Travel

The Real Cost of Travel

Salar de Uyuni, Bolivia

Salar de Uyuni (Bolivia) was one of my favorite places in Latin America. I crossed the Andes by bus, which was quite an adventure, and got stuck in Northern Chile for a week due to heavy rains and political protests en route. Nothing worthwhile is every easy.

The biggest myth about travel is that it is outrageously expensive.

I bet it might even be cheaper than where you live now. I spent seven months in Latin America and traveled to 11 countries from October 2014 until May 2015. I tracked every peso, dollar and boliviano I spent in an expense tracking app. I spent hours analyzing the results to provide the detailed and honest breakdown of all my expenses below.  (I never want to look at a spreadsheet EVER again!) This includes everything from pay toilets to beer!

Before any big trip, I ELMINATE my bills and focus on saving for travel. In previous posts, I have discussed the cost of travel, solo travel, travel safety, travel banking and how to prepare for a long-term trip. On average, I try to live on $1,000 USD/month no matter where I live. That’s roughly $30/day. In Asia, this was a simple task, but I knew it was a challenge for Latin America due to high transport and visa costs in South America. Before any long-term trip, I like to have at least $10,000 in my savings account, which includes a cushion fund for when I come home. For this trip to Latin America, I saved $15,000 to help cover higher travel costs. To be clear, I have NO debt, which I talked about in a post from 2014.

Latin America Trip Budget.numbers-Basic Charts

All prices are in U.S. dollars

Total Cost of Trip: $9,714.38
Cost per Month (7-month trip): $1,387
Cost per Day: $46

Countries visited: 11 total including Mexico, Cuba, Panama, Costa Rica, Colombia, Argentina, Chile, Uruguay, Bolivia, Peru and the Maldives (My friends flew me to the Maldives to shoot their amazing wedding!)

Biggest expenses: Machu Picchu ($229 including transport from Cusco and entrance fee only), Peruvian Amazon four-day tour ($402), a month traveling in Patagonia, Torres del Paine ($246.47 including food, entrance fee, rental gear, camping and transport from Puerto Natales, Chile), Cuba ($500 for two week trip); Bolivia Salt Flats ($179); Spanish classes ($259.30)

Summary: Overall, I stayed under my $15,000 budget and still came back to the U.S. with the cushion fund I had budgeted ($5,000). I did spend more than I hoped because I fell in love with Argentina and stayed for two months including one month in Patagonia. Is it possible to do this trip cheaper than I did? Of course! The goal of this post is to show an idea of the actual cost of travel and dispel possible myths. In the end, I do not regret a thing. Every single dollar was worth it!

Detailed Breakdown of All Expenses

Accommodation: $2,252.54

I stayed in dorm beds at hostels for the majority of my trip ranging from $8-$40/night. I shared larger private rooms with groups of friends I met on my travels. I also rented an apartment in Buenos Aires for $35/night and split it with a friend.


Transport: $2,821.02

(Transport $2,545.22 & Visas $275.80)

  • This includes every single form of transport (taxi, trains, flights, ferries) and all visas.
  • Visas: Argentina $160 reciprocity fee (As of 2016, Americans no longer have to pay this fee.); Cuba $25; Bolivia $60 for one-month entry
  • Flights: I flew 15 times and only paid for four flights because I’m a frequent flyer mile ninja. (This does not include the six flights to the Maldives to shoot my friend’s wedding.) Domestic flights in Peru were only 6,000 miles each way so I flew multiple times to save time. I booked award flights a month to six weeks in advance. My trip ended in Lima because it is the cheapest place to fly back to the U.S. from South America. (Trust me, I did tons of research.)
  • Overnight buses were my main form of transport. The buses in Argentina were the most expensive—each bus was at least $100. I traveled only by bus and jeep from Ushuaia, the Southern most city in the world to Cusco, Peru.
  • I took an overnight ferry from Panama to Colombia for $150 because I refused to pay $400 for a one-way hour-long flight.
  • There are only two ways to get to Aguas Calientes, the gateway city to Machu Picchu: take the train or walk for seven hours. I travel with 30 pounds of camera gear (and a gnome) so I gladly paid for the $150 for the scenic train.
A squirrel monkey climbs across a tree on Monkey Island in the Amazon near Iquitos, Peru.

One of the highlights of my trip was a four-day Amazon tour in Iquitos, Peru during the wet season. I photographed this squirrel monkey from our boat on Monkey Island.


Entrance Fees/Tours: $1,053.43

This includes all museums, archeological sites, hiking, national parks and cultural attractions like Machu Picchu admission ($40); 4-day Amazon Tour in Iquitos, Peru ($403.91); Torres del Paine admission ($30); Bolivia Salt Flats tour ($179)


Food:
$2,419
(Eating out: $1,565.97; Groceries: $299.92; Beer: $269.99)

  • One of my favorite parts of traveling is the food! The older I get, the more I spend on food. I eat well and never eat ramen, but I do eat a lot of peanut butter. Usually, I make peanut butter, banana and honey sandwiches for long bus rides or transit days when food options are limited. (TIP: Always pack a jar of natural peanut butter for a trip – it’s either hard to find or expensive overseas.)
  • I ate my weight in steak and fresh berries in Argentina. All of which were extremely cheap.
  • I cooked a lot in hostels with other travelers, which meant most meals only cost about a few dollars. I also tried to only stay at places with free breakfast.
  • I only spent $13.12 on water because I took a Sawyer MINI water filter with me, which saved a lot of money and plastic. The tap water was drinkable in Argentina, Southern Chile, Panama and certain parts of both Colombia and Costa Rica.


Toiletries/Medicine: $144.55
(Toiletries: $54.39; Medical: $90.16)

  • This includes shampoo, medicines like ibuprofen, toothpaste and bandages for when I smashed my knees (and my iPhone) on a morning run in a park in Buenos Aires.
  • Contact solution was $20 in Panama! When possible, I ALWAYS buy sunscreen and contact solution in the U.S. before I leave because it’s either hard to find, bad quality or overpriced abroad.
Mazurek_llama_sweaters

I stocked up on llama clothing in Sucre, Bolivia.


Clothing/Laundry: $102.25

(Clothing: $45.83; Laundry $56.42)

The only clothing items I really bought were socks and a llama sweater/gloves for Bolivia/Peru. I usually only pack for summer because I hate the cold. It’s easier and cheaper to just buy a llama sweater, gloves and socks than drag warm clothing around for five months. For a list of my top 10 things to pack, check out this post.


Insurance: $321.75

I paid $50/month for zero-deductible travel medicine insurance with emergency evacuation coverage and an adventure sports rider through IMGlobal. I opted for the 30-days of home coverage after I returned to give me time to sort out my American insurance. I always cancel my American health insurance when I travel long-term because most U.S. policies offer limited international coverage.


Other Expenses: $
599.84

This includes the following: Pay toilets: $3.91; Gifts: $34.65; Postage: $56.92; Spanish classes $259.30; WIFI: $16.42, Tips: $36.17; Other: $192.47

QUESTIONS: Now that I have bared my soul and travel finances to you, I have one small favor to ask. Tell me what topics you would like to see covered on the blog in future posts! What are your travel questions or concerns? Please comment below or email me.  I’ll respond as promptly as possible or answer your questions in a detailed post in the future.

COMING UP: Guide to Working Abroad

Travel Safety 101

Travel Safety 101

Vancouver, Canada

I have this silly fear of heights, which makes suspension bridges like this the scariest part of my travels at times.

Exchanging money on the black market in Argentina is always an adventure. It is just like the plot of a spy movie except – sadly – there is no Jason Statham. The movie started when a friend of a friend (an expat) gave me an address to a building in the swanky part of Buenos Aires with no sign and blinds covering the windows. I rang the doorbell, and the door buzzed open.  As the door automatically locked behind me, I panicked. Was I about to die? Or was I just being overly paranoid as usual? After negotiating rates with a Che Guevara lookalike, I was walking down the sidewalk fifteen minutes later with a purse full of pesos and feeling good about my spy skills.

Due to Argentina’s high inflation, the black market is used by literally everyone because the rate is almost 50% higher than the ATM. I did my research beforehand, went to a reputable place and thoroughly checked the bills as I counted them at the counter. I checked again at my apartment, which confirmed my fear was overzealous as usual.

Despite what my mother and the news say, the world is actually a safe place. (Motorized vehicle accidents are the leading cause of unnatural deaths for Americans abroad, according to the New York Times.) I have traveled solo to five continents since 2002; safety is always my top concern. I want to dispel some fears with tips about how to stay safe in case you find yourself living in a spy movie while roaming the globe.

I’ve had my share of mishaps – my purse was stolen in Thailand and again in Barcelona because I was not paying attention—which were both good lessons that helped me stop a pickpocket in Buenos Aires and will hopefully help you as well.

Here are a few tips to help manage your fear and stay safe:

Traveling Warnings & Country Specific Concerns

  • Check travel warnings. Before booking flights, research health, environmental, political and terrorism concerns in your destination. Americans should check travel.state.gov for warnings and sign up for the STEP Smart Traveler Program, which provides free email updates.
  • Read recent travel guides.  These are a good resource for reported safety incidents and high theft areas. (Personally, I felt the safest traveling solo in Japan, Europe, Australia/New Zealand and most of Southeast Asia. I also felt safe in Cuba and Burma. My guard was higher in parts of Mexico, Peru, Nicaragua, Bolivia and India.)
  • Avoid areas with military conflicts/elections. Keep in mind that smaller elections may not make international headlines. (I was stuck in Northern Chile for a week due to combination of bad weather that closed the border to Bolivia and rumors of election protests blocking roads across the border. The snow and protests faded a few days later.)
  • Dress culturally appropriate. Ladies, be sure to cover up in conservative cultures to avoid unwanted attention. Be respectful when visiting temples. (Some places in Thailand make you rent shawls if you are wearing tank tops or shorts.) Baggy harem pants are a good option for hot places like India and are great for preventing mosquito bites. Both men and women should avoid fancy jewelry and watches especially on public transport.

Get Travel Insurance

The key to insurance is simple: You insure what you can’t afford to pay yourself. I ALWAYS have travel medical insurance that covers emergency evacuation, trip interruption, adventure sports and end of trip coverage (after long-term trips). Most policies will not cover phones and will only pay a flat fee (usually $250) for other electronics. (I insure my camera gear and my Mac separately with State Farm’s Personal Articles Policy.) Many credit cards also include travel insurance benefits like baggage delay, trip interruption and accident coverage.

I always cancel my normal health insurance for long-term trips because American polices have very limited international coverage. Instead, I opt for a zero deductible travel medical policy, which offers better coverage overseas at a fraction of the cost ($30-50/month).  I’ve used International Medical Group for years, and they pay claims within 30 days. (I have no affiliation with them.)

Check the Weather

Prices usually drop in the low season for a reason: monsoon season. Be aware of transport issues during monsoon/hurricane/typhoon season. In some places like Thailand, the monsoon season just means a little rain each day. In other places like the Philippines, it means dangerous conditions that can halt transport for days.

Travel Safety Transport


Safe Transport

  • There is no price for safety. Never risk your safety to save money. 
  • In high risk areas, avoid local buses for long routes and pay a little extra for private buses. In Peru, I always used Cruz del Sur buses because they were the safest company with private bus stations, secure luggage claim and safe taxis options.
  • Never grab a taxi off the street in areas with high crime. Have your hotel, hostel or a restaurant call one  instead. Safe radio taxi companies operate in major cities including Meru in India and Tappsi in Colombia.
  • Avoid arriving late at night in countries with safety concerns like India, Central America, Peru and Bolivia. If you are taking overnight transport, be sure to arrive during daylight hours in these areas.
  • Write down the address of your destination on a piece of paper to hand to the taxi driver. Never give the driver your phone to see the address.
  • Research local taxi regulations to ensure your taxi is marked properly before getting inside. Guidebooks and receptionists are good resources.

Tips for Avoiding Theft

  • Never carry EVERYTHING with you. Only take the money you need when you go out for the day. Hide your money, passport and credit cards in many different places. The more obscure (like cough drop bags), the better.
  •  Lock valuables and passports in safes or lockers at hotels/hostels. (I never stay in a hostel that doesn’t have lockers. I bring a sturdy combination lock to secure it. Avoid flimsy suitcase locks and giant high-school-locker-style locks, which are usually too big.
  • Watch your bags in crowded places, restaurants and public transport in high risk areas like Barcelona. Put your leg through your bag strap when standing/sitting. Do not hang purses/bags on the back of restaurant chairs or put them in the upper racks on local buses. Keep bags in your lap or at your feet.
  • Do not put your phone in your back pocket or lay it on a restaurant table. Break the habit immediately. I always keep mine in my purse, which is always in my lap with the strap across my body.
  • Watch your bags on public transport. If you have a purse, ALWAYS keep your hand over the zipper. Move all items in your pockets to one of your front pockets. Keep your hand inside the pocket to secure items. Put your backpack in front of you in crowded places or lock zippers with a suitcase lock.
  • Watch out for counterfeit money in places with high inflation. Be aware of all proper watermarks and holograms for the local currency. Check your change carefully in taxis and street markets especially when you are breaking a large bill. Even if you end up with counterfeit currency, don’t worry—it can be passed off fairly easy in street markets. (I was given some fake currency on my last day in Peru. I made a game of spending it all before I left and succeeded!)
  • Don’t go into the backrooms (non-public areas) of shops. Have the vendor bring items to the main area. If a shop vendor in India offers you tea, politely decline.
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Overweight ferries are a huge safety concern. Don’t take this Ometepe, Nicaragua ferry. ALWAYS get the larger car ferry. (I thought THIS was the biggest ferry at the time.)


Trust your Instinct

Would you walk around the rough parts of your hometown at 2 a.m. with $1,000 cash in your pocket? No? Then, don’t do it abroad! Use common sense. Also, watch your partying. Alcohol and drugs impair your judgment and make you more vulnerable to thieves. (Many of the robberies I’ve heard about in my recent travels happened at night when people were partying or walking alone late at night.) If your gut instinct tells you something is even the slightest bit weird, get out of the situation immediately! Don’t worry about being rude. Get out!


Ask the Locals

I always ask locals for safety advice. Hotel receptionists, guides and expats are great resources. (I never stay in swanky hotels but have no qualms walking into one to ask the concierge about safety concerns.) Is it safe for a foreigner to take a local bus or visit a certain area of town? Do they feel safe in that part of town? If they don’t feel safe or think I won’t be safe, then I avoid the area or the time of day. Other travelers are a great resource as well.

COMING UP NEXT: A Guide to Buenos Aires (my FAVORITE city in the world!)

Why I Travel

Why I Travel

Mazurek_Havana

Obligatory classic car portrait in Havana, Cuba

Why do I travel?

I travel because it makes me feel alive. Truly and completely alive.

I recently read Elizabeth Gilbert’s new story in Condé Nast Traveler magazine, and she inspired me to to write about why I travel and will always continue to travel.

To me, every aspect of life abroad is exciting even just walking down the street. Even those little mundane tasks like riding a bus or going to the ATM are an adventure. I am constantly learning new things and meeting amazing people. (I’ve met some of my best friends on the road and couldn’t imagine my life without them.)

I have this theory: The things that scare you are the things you need to do the most. When I feel comfortable, it’s a sign I need to move on to my next challenge in order to continue to grow.

I was not always this outgoing, adventurous or courageous. All of these skills were acquired by wandering around the globe (mostly solo).

I did not even grow up traveling except for weekend beach trips in the summer and that one trip to Disney World in fifth grade. How does a girl from small town South Carolina grow up to be a vagabond?

The biggest travel inspiration in my life is my 76-year-old Aunt Sandra. She and my uncle were always on some amazing adventure when I was growing up. She always had the best stories—the battle with the scorpion in her Amazon hut, scuba diving in Bonaire and river cruises in Russia. Every time, she brought back souvenirs – jewelry, t-shirts and purses. Eight-year-old Anna loved those Aruba t-shirts. I wore them daily with mismatched Bermuda shorts and dreamed of tropical beaches.

I always wanted to be the one with the cool stories. Now, I am the girl with the stories—photographing the Dalai Lama’s teachings at this temple in Northern India, sledding down the side of a volcano in Nicaragua and spending three days on a train across the Australian outback. Everything I do in life is for the story. I was always a journalist at heart. I am in love with the idea of the story, which is also why I have a Master’s degree in photojournalism.

Above all, my aunt always encouraged my adventures and never once said I was crazy. In August of 2014, I called to ask her opinion of the big trip I was planning in Latin America. I told her my timeline, the list of countries I wanted to visit including Cuba and the amount of money in my savings account ($15,000). I explained how I was marketing the trip to magazines and hoped to continue to freelance as I traveled. Then, I asked: “Should I go now or should I wait another year?”

Her response was immediate.

“Go now,” she replied. “I would if I could.”

Then, she made a great point: “You never know what will happen in those countries politically. If the situation changes, they might not be open for travelers for a long time.” Two months later, I was on a one-way flight to Mexico City with no set plans and unlimited freedom.

It wasn’t my first long-term solo trip, and I admit I was still a little scared—scared of running out of money, getting robbed or getting food poisoning again. But, I refused to let fear rule my life or get in the way of my stories.

I challenge you to answer the same question: Why do YOU travel?

COMING UP: Travel Safety 101

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