Road Trip Guide to Marfa
Classic Marfa: My favorite town in Texas
I have never been anywhere quite like Marfa.
The quirky, remote West Texas town is one of my favorite places to photograph. (Add it to your bucket list now!) The former railroad town has a population of just under 2,000 people and is a mecca for art. Marfa appeared on the art scene when famed minimalist artist Donald Judd moved to town from New York City in search of a location to permanently install his art. Now, a variety of galleries are scattered across the one-stoplight town along with trendy dive bars and delicious food trucks.
Downtown Marfa, Texas
Thanks to Judd, many people come to Marfa for the art and the hype. The photographic quirkiness of the town is what attracted me to visit. Who could resist the charm of storefronts from the 1800’s restored with a sleek modern touch only a block away from the bustling NAPA Auto Parts? On both of my visits, I drove around everyday at sunrise and sunset looking for things to photograph. I’ve always been drawn to the fringes of life – crumbling colonial towns in Latin America or Buddhist ruins in Asia. In Marfa, I’m drawn to the vintage cars, the former military based Judd turned in a giant art gallery and the dilapidated hotel signs that now stand by vacant lots on the edge of town. Marfa is thriving in a world where small towns struggle to survive.
Marfa does have a bit of third-world charm that adds a bit of adventure: The shops and restaurants don’t always have set hours. They open and close as they please. Good luck finding a place to eat on a Sunday night. (Friday and Saturdays are the best days to visit Marfa.)
People always ask me for tips (where to go/stay/eat) in all the places I’ve been so I’ve started taking good notes and writing up short mini-guides to help! Here’s a quick photo guide to my favorite city in Texas:
1. Marfa Lights
One of the many attractions in Marfa is the mysterious Marfa Lights, which were first documented in 1883. The lights do exist. I’d seen them twice—balls of light that move, fade and twinkle on clear nights between Marfa and the Piasno Pass. A viewing station was built nine miles east of town on Highway 90.
An advertisement for the Marfa Lights outside the quirky Thunderbird Hotel.
2. El Cosmico
El Cosmico is a 21-acre campground with teepees, Mongolian yurts and vintage trailers for rent. They book out far in advance for accommodation. Beyoncé stayed here on her recent visit. I always bring my own tent and chose the self-camp option for $15/person. There’s tons of hammocks, free wifi and a large kitchen.
El Cosmico offers a wide range of unique accommodation including three teepees.
3. Marfa Prada
One of the most famous art installations known as the Marfa Prada is actually is 37 miles west of town. The land art project by artists Elmgreen & Dragset was built in 2005 in conjunction with the Ballroom Marfa gallery. It is a replica of a Prada store including shoes and bags donated by Muccia Prada and a door that doesn’t open. The first time I drove out to the building, it had been vandalized, which sadly happens often. On my second trip, the building was repaired and more photogenic. Sunset or sunrise is the best time to photograph the building. There’s no ambient light so avoid going after dark.
4. Food Shark
Food Shark has some of the best food in town. The Mediterranean-inspired food truck with the iconic orange door is open Thursday – Sunday from noon until 3 p.m. The slow-roast pulled pork and okra sandwich is my favorite. Food Shark also runs The Museum of Electronic Wonders and Late Night Grilled Cheese Parlour, a popular weekend eatery packed with vintage TVs. If the inside is full, grab a table on the adjacent renovated school bus eating car to devour your grilled cheese. (Friday & Saturday 9:30 p.m. – 12:30 a.m.)
Food Shark runs two delicious eateries in Marfa. It’s a must for lunch!
5. Chinati Foundation
The Chinati Foundation, a contemporary art museum based on the work of Donald Judd, is located on a former military base. Admission is free to Judd’s untitled 15 works of concrete (pictured above) in a field along Highway 67. They offer several tour options: full collection (4 hours/$25 adults), selection tour (2 hours/$20) and a self-guided tour of Judd’s untilted works in mill aluminum ($10 adults).
6. Cobra Rock
On my first trip to Marfa, everyone suggested I visit Cobra Rock Boot Company run by Colt Miller and his partner, Logan Caldbeck. Miller started making boots ten years ago in Borden County near Lubbock, Texas after apprenticing with a cowboy boot maker. The majority of each shoe is stitched on Colt’s 1939 Singer sewing machine. They produce 10 pairs of boots each week, but the entire process takes about three weeks.
Cobra Rock Boot Company is one of my favorite stores to both photograph and visit in Marfa.
When to go:
- Most restaurants, galleries and shops are open on weekends. Almost everything is open on Saturdays, but Sunday nights are dead. Spring and fall are best for weather. It’s freezing at night from November to March and blazing hot in the summer during the day. Festivals weekends can be really crowded. See the list of events below.
Nearby Attractions:
- Be sure to head up to McDonald Observatory for their Saturday night Star Parties, which include outdoor constellation tours and telescope viewing. It’s usually cold, but the view is amazing.
- Hiking in Big Bend National Park is a must. The wide open desert and giant limestone canyons are incredible. A 4-wheel drive vehicle will make it easier to get to the remote parts of the park.
- Big Bend Brewery in nearby Alpine offers tours at 3 p.m. on Wednesday through Friday and on Saturday (1 p.m. & 3 p.m.) for $10. Includes samples of all beers and a really cool pint glass. Try Tejas lager – it’s my favorite!
Restaurants and Bars:
- Lost Horse Saloon – Local dive bar with fire pit and great taco trailer in parking lot. 306 E. San Antonio
- Marfa Burrito – Life-changing burritos. Open daily 6 a.m. – 2 p.m. 515 S. Highland St.
- Squeeze – My daily breakfast/lunch spot. Great waffles and soup. Tuesday to Sunday 8 a.m. – 3 p.m. 215 N Highland St.
- Jett’s Grill – A good Sunday night dinner option. Located in Hotel Paradiso. 207 North Highland Ave.
- Planet Marfa – A cute eclectic bar with a teepee in the center. Open seasonally on weekends. 200 S. Abbott St.
Festivals in Marfa:
- Chianti Weekend: Includes free tours, live music and a $500 fundraiser dinner that always sells out. Columbus Day Weekend (Saturday & Sunday); All galleries in town are open late the Friday before as part of the Made in Marfa event.
- Marfa Film Festival: Five-day film festival with outdoor screenings. (July 13-17, 2016)
- Marfa Lights Festival: Labor Day weekend at courthouse grounds. Features a parade and live music.
- Marfa Myths: Art/music event co-run by Ballroom Marfa and the Brooklyn-based record label Mexican Summer (March 10-13, 2016)
- Trans-Pecos Festival: A music and arts festival held at El Cosmico. (September 22-25, 2016)
- Via Big Bend Festival: Lineup of 50 bands playing in Alpine, Marathon and Fort Davis. (July 28-31, 2016)
For more information:
El Cosmico provides this great detailed map of Marfa and this extensive list of restaurants.
A Photo Guide to Nicaragua
Smoke rising up from the Masaya Volcano crater
I kicked off 2016 with by visiting my 44th country – Nicaragua. It was the perfect place to defrost from winter, eat my weight in papaya, climb colonial church towers and hike volcanos. Nicaragua is shaking off decades of political turmoil and slowly emerging from obscurity onto the main travel circuit. It’s still much cheaper and undeveloped than neighboring Costa Rica. Fingers crossed that it continues to stay under the radar.
Here’s my list of the top five must-see sights in the country:
1. Ometepe
My favorite part of Nicaragua was Isla de Ometepe—a mystical island with twin volcano peaks in the middle of a fresh water lake. A good portion of the island is undeveloped with unpaved roads. It was a great place to hike, swim and relax in a hammock. It was completely different (and safer) than the rest of Nicaragua.
Concepción, the larger of the two volcanos on Ometepe
I stayed in one handmade cottages at Finca Mystica, an ecofriendly jungle lodge. The food, accommodation and location were amazing. (In ALL of my travels, this is in my top three for accommodation!) Nothings beats waking up to the sound of howler monkeys every morning!
Howler monkeys in the trees outside my cabin at Finca Mystica on Ometepe
Other island highlights include:
- Café Campestre, a great lunch spot in Balgue
- San Ramon Waterfall (pictured below), a good hike that leads to small, picturesque waterfall
(Don’t rent a horse. It’s easier and less painful to hike. Trust me on this one.) - Ojo de Agua, a natural spring pool fed by an underground river from the Maderas volcano
- Playa Santa Domingo, a beautiful 4km long black sand beach
- Hiking the Maderas (6-8 hours) and Concepción (10 hours) volcanos
San Ramon Waterfall on Ometepe
The island is located in Lake Nicaragua, which is the rumored site of the proposed (and recently postponed) Nicaragua canal funded by a Chinese businessman. Transport: Ferries leave San Jorge regularly for Ometepe. Avoid the small ferries, which are sketchy and the bottom level floods. Opt for the larger three-level car ferries instead.
2. Granada
The colorful colonial streets of Granada are the most photogenic and best preserved in the country. Highlights include the Cathedral de Granada, the main icon of the city skyline, and Iglesia San Francisco, the oldest church in Central America that also houses a museum. Soy Nica is a great shop for locally made leather goods. For an amazing view of the city, climb the tower of Iglesia de La Merced in the late afternoon. Where to eat: The best lunch spots are El Garaje (one of my favorite meals in Nicaragua with a weekly rotating menu) or The Garden Café, a popular spot with large courtyard.
Sunset view of the Granada Cathedral from the tower of Iglesia de La Merced
3. Laguna de Apoyo
The giant crater lake is a short drive from Granada and is the clearest body of fresh water in the country. It was formed 23,000 years ago and was declared a nature reserve in 1991. There are a handful of accommodation options on the lake that offer kayaks and paddleboards. I highly recommend a sunrise kayak along the shoreline.
Sunrise at Hostel Paradiso at Laguna de Apoyo
4. León
The highlight of León for me was the roof tour of the cathedral (Basílica de la Asunción), which is the largest cathedral in Central America. Despite offering an amazing view of the city and surrounding volcanos, the maze-like rooftop itself was stunning. Shoes are not allowed because the roof was recently painted bright white.
Roof of Basílica de la Asunción in Leon
Another must-see is the Museo de Arte Fundación Ortiz-Gurdián, one of the finest contemporary art museums in Central America. Two beautiful old homes are filled with the works of Latin American masters including Diego Rivera and Fernando Botero along with a few big names like Picasso and Chagall. The $3 entrance fee was a steal.
The heavily decorated yellow façade of the 1786 Iglesia de Recolección in Leon
Where to eat in León: Be sure to stop for breakfast at Pan & Paz, grab an afternoon ice cream on a waffle cone (both are homemade) at Kiss Me and dinner at El Bodegon (my favorite restaurant in Nicaragua). It’s run by a Cuban chef and has a set 180 córdoba ($6) menu featuring giant quesadillas and Spanish tortillas.
5. Cerro Negro
Volcano boarding at Cerro Negro, a 728-meter active volcano, was on my bucket list. The volcano is named for the layer of volcanic rocks that cover its slopes. (The last eruptions was 1999.) Many tour companies like El Perezoso offer the day trip for $30 USD from León and provide boards (homemade sleds) and safety gear. It took a little less than an hour to hike to the top with my board strapped to my back and less than two minutes to come down! (It honestly was nowhere near as scary as I thought.) Go early to beat the crowds and party hostels who arrive around 9:30 a.m.
Volcano boarding on Cerro Negro near León
Meet Alfred – the Globetrotting Gnome
Clockwise from top left: Machu Pichu, Peru; Havana, Cuba; Chichen Itza, Mexico; Maldives
For the past eight years, I have traveled the world solo with my little photogenic gnome. Alfred’s been my favorite travel buddy since our paths crossed on the garden aisle of a supermarket in Sydney. Since then, we’ve been to five continents together and countless road trips in the U.S.
The idea to photograph a gnome did not come from Travelocity or the French film Amélie. (I saw the movie years later.) It started at 6 a.m. in June of 2006 when I picked up my best friend from high school for an East Coast road trip to Maine from my hometown in South Carolina. I noticed Harvey on the porch when we were leaving. He was laying on his side and covered in a layer of spider webs. I instantly knew he was coming with us.
The original gnome Harvey (who closely resembles Happy the dwarf from Snow White) in Maine in July 2006.
Some frat boys stole Harvey off my friend’s porch a few years later. My first gnome was Albert. He met a tragic end in Niagara Falls. My second gnome was Walt. He was about 18 inches tall with a little bird on his head. When I moved to Australia in 2008, there was no room for him in my suitcase so he went to live with my nephew. I was gnomeless for a few months until that day in Sydney when I stumbled upon a little row of travel-sized gnomes. (Alfred is 8.5 inches tall.)
Alfred barely survived a traumatic experience at the Leh airport in Northern India in 2011. As I was being patted down by an airport security guard, the luggage conveyer belt got jammed, and my bag tumbled to the ground. Alfred was in pieces, and I cried the entire one-hour flight to Delhi. I quickly learned the Hindi word for “superglue” and went off to find a market. My amazing friend, Justin, helped glue him back together. (REAL friends stay up late to help you glue your gnome back together even though you have to be up at 5 a.m. to go to the Taj Mahal.) When I got back to the States, I went straight to a hardware store and bought some spray foam insulation to make Alfred a bit sturdier.
Justin helps glue Alfred back together in Agra after his tragic airport accident in India.
Alfred now travels in a $40 indestructible Pelican case. I keep a 4×6 photo collage (like the first image in this post) with him just in case I need to provide explanation at the airport. He is pretty popular among the airport security staff. In Costa Rica, one of the guards asked me to open the case and called all the other guards over to meet Alfred. They all flooded me with questions: “What’s his name?” “Where’s he been?” Meanwhile, my friends were all convinced I was being arrested.
Alfred’s Pelican Travel Case
I started photographing Alfred everywhere I went but mostly in places with iconic backgrounds that could be easily recognized. I also started making gnome Christmas cards for my friends every year and a few other holiday-themed cards (Easter, St. Patrick’s Day, etc.) that I sold at art shows occasionally. Every year it takes hours and hours to make, write and mail all my Christmas cards to my amazing friends who are scattered across the globe. My goal is always to make them smile, and it’s my favorite part of the holidays. Everyone needs a gnome in their mailbox!
Most of all, I hope Alfred inspires people to travel. If a tiny green gnome can travel the world, why can’t you?
To see more of Alfred’s adventures, check out his travel gallery!
Ten Reasons Why You Should Travel Solo
Four of my favorite places from the past eight years of traveling (clockwise from left): Ladakh, India; Northern Thailand; Fushimi Inari Shrine, Kyoto, Japan; Torres del Paine, Chile
After traveling nonstop for over eight years, I prefer traveling solo, an idea that frightens many people. When the economy tanked in 2008, I quit my jobs and spent a year globetrotting. (Recessions aren’t good for freelance photographers.) It was my first long-term solo adventure—eight countries in 13 months. I booked the flight and never looked back.
If you have never traveled solo, here are a few reasons to pack your bags:
1. Expand Your Comfort Zone
The only way to overcome fear is to do the things you fear. Almost everything I do scares me. I hate heights so I went bungee jumping in New Zealand. I find the idea of being alone in a foreign city where I don’t speak the language to be exhilarating. The courage and confidence gained from traveling alone can transform every aspect of your life including your career.
2. Be Master of Your Own Schedule
Traveling solo is the ultimate freedom. Eat pancakes for breakfast everyday. Get up at sunrise to go hiking or spending your afternoons reading in a hammock. No dragging your night owl friends out of bed to catch an early flight. And, most importantly, no fighting over what to eat for dinner! You do what you want when you want. No waiting. No silly fights. No questions.
3. Learn about Yourself
I consider travel to be an education – an in-depth look at world history and yourself. I had a Master’s degree by age 25 and lived on four continents by the time I was 27. There is a clarity that comes from being 5,000 miles away from everything familiar and all the things that influence your decisions. It cleared my head of society’s expectations and allowed me to simplify my goals and priorities to build the life I wanted, which involved traveling for a living.
4. Make New Friends
The easiest way to meet people is to travel alone. It forces you to be more outgoing than normal, and it makes you more approachable. Conversations with strangers are easier and more natural because they revolve around simple questions like “Where are you going?” and “Where are you from?” Plus, other travelers are the best resource for recommendations for food, transport and accommodation. You will never run out of conversation topics!
I met the majority of my closest friends while traveling. Each one started as a chance meeting in an unlikely place – a pub in chilly Northern England and the humid streets of Luang Prabang. I couldn’t imagine my life without these people.
5. Easier to Plan
The stress of planning is significantly reduced when you only have to plan for one. It’s easier to find a single spare seat on a last minute flight or a sold-out bus. Plus, you don’t have to coordinate multiple work and vacation schedules. I usually book a one-way flight to leave my options open.
6. Save Money
It’s easier to stay within your budget when you are traveling solo. Everyone has different comfort levels, which can lead to drastic price differences for accommodation, food and transport. I usually prefer to walk or take public transport for both the experience and to save money. I’ve traveled with friends who insist on taking taxis everywhere because they can’t take the crowds and heat. (For travel funding tips, check out my guide to eliminating bills, travel banking 101 and savings tips.)
7. No Regrets
The best way to live the life you daydream about is to travel alone. People often tell me, “I live vicariously through your travels.” Well, I prefer to live vicariously through myself. If I want to do something, I find a way to make it happen. Sometimes it can take weeks, months or years. I refuse to spend my life waiting on other people. If friends can join me for an adventure, then great. If not, then I go alone. When I’m 80-years-old, I will never say, “Man, I regret that year I spent living in Australia and those two months I spent hiking in Patagonia.”
8. Minimalism
I was THAT girl. The one dragging two suitcases twice her size through the airport. Thankfully, that girl has learned to carry-on her luggage. Nothing teaches you about minimalism better than a long-term solo trip. When you are alone, there’s no one to watch your luggage while you run to the bathroom or grab a coffee. An overload of luggage makes any traveler an easy target for thieves and unwanted attention. Plus, giant bags will kill your back, energy level and mood.
9. Singing in the Car
The best part of road trips is singing horribly loud to your favorite ‘90s mix with no one to judge you or roll their eyes. Nothing makes the miles pass as quickly as singing and dancing in the car.
10. Inspire Others
My courage to travel solo across five continents has inspired my friends to take advantage of gaps of time to join me for a small part of a trip or take their own journey. I am the excuse people use to travel and face their fears. Be the inspiration for your friends to take that trip to Cuba or hike Kilimanjaro!
(This is a post I wrote for Afar.com a few months ago.)
The Myth About Travel & Luck
Kerala, India
“You’re so lucky that you get to travel so much!”
“I’m jealous of your life!”
“I’m living vicariously through you!”
Let me let you in on a big secret: Travel has nothing to do with luck. Luck is finding a $10 bill on the sidewalk.
All I have wanted to do is travel. I didn’t grow up traveling, but I found a way to make it happen. The first time I stepped on a plane, I was 19. The next year I moved to England to study abroad. Fast forward a little over a decade, I’ve been to 44 countries on five continents; I lived in five states and five countries. Eight-year-old Anna would be so proud of 34-year-old me.
How do I travel so much? First of all, I don’t have a trust fund. I found jobs that paid me to travel. I taught English in Thailand, freelanced for travel/lifestyle magazines and ran photo trips in Asia. (Many of these gigs paid for my travel and living expenses.) Sometimes I worked three jobs to save money to travel on my own – I worked as a freelance photographer but also waited tables/bartended, worked retail and taught university photo classes. I cut all unnecessary expenses. Every decision I made was for my next adventure. I even rented out a friend’s living room for $230 a month when I first moved to Austin and slept on an air mattress to save money for my South America trip. (Vagabonds like me don’t sign leases.) I have quit countless jobs—even jobs that I loved—to travel. Do you have to work three jobs to be able to afford to travel? Do you have to quit your job and sleep on an air mattress in your friend’s living room? Do you have to do exactly what I did to travel? Absolutely not.
If I want to do something, I do it. It’s that simple. Sometimes it takes weeks, sometimes it takes months or even years. Regardless, I MAKE it happen. I travel because it makes me feel alive and believe everyone should do the things that make them feel alive.
The secret to traveling and living your daydreams comes down to three things: priorities, relentless persistence and courage.
1. Priorities
The great paradox of life is the relationship between money and time. You either have an abundance of one or a shortage of the other. Write down a list of your top three priorities. Find ways to make time or funding for them. Eliminate anything that gets in the way. Sometimes that means eliminating things you want to do – saying no to a dinner with a friend in order to work on a personal project or to save money. Follow the 80/20 rule: Invest your time in 20% of your actions that provide 80% of the results in your life.
2. Relentless Persistence
I refuse to be ignored. That’s how I got hired to shoot for countless magazines. I cold called and emailed until I got a meeting. After the meeting, I stayed on their radar and got access to events I knew they were covering. My persistence got me the job almost every time.
When something I’ve been working hard for falls through, I also accept that the timing isn’t right. My schedule is simply clearing up so I can focus my time on something else. Regardless, my goal remains the same even though my methods and direction may change.
3. Courage
I admit it – I hate to fly. But, I love to travel more than I hate to fly so I do it anyways. I refuse to let fear control my actions or regrets to control my life. When I’m 80, I’d rather talk about my globetrotting adventures instead of the time I was too scared to get on the plane.
What is stopping you? Write down the obstacles in your way and find a solution for each. Everything I do scares me and that’s exactly why I do it. The secret is to break big challenges into small manageable steps. The idea of moving to England alone to study abroad was overwhelming at first. (It was my third time flying and first trip overseas.) I broke it down into smaller pieces. All I had to do was get on the plane. That was my first goal. Once I was on the plane, I focused on the next goal, etc.
Now, I challenge you to go do the things you want to do! The minute you do, the world will start to notice.
My Top 10 Travel Photographs (and Adventures) of 2015
2015 was a big year of travel for me! I kicked the year off in Panama City, Panama trying to figure out the best (and cheapest) way to get to Cartagena. It has been one amazing adventure full of new places, faces and reunions with old friends. I spent the first five months in South America and traveled by bus from Ushuaia (the southern most city in the world) at the bottom of Argentina all the way north to Cusco, Peru. Here are my top 10 favorite photographs from my adventures in 2015:
1. Torres del Paine
I spent two months in Patagonia at the beginning of the year and spent five days hiking the “W” circuit at Torres del Paine in Southern Chile. It was the biggest hike I did in South America and one of the most challenging for me. (It was the first time I’ve backpacked carrying both camera and camping gear.) The last hour of the hike to the three towers was brutal, but the view was incredible.
2. Cartagena
The party never stops in colorful Cartagena. I spent a few weeks here in January exploring the colonial town and meeting up with some old friends. My visit coincided with the Cartagena International Music Festival. There’s nothing quite like listening to classical music in an old colonial square.
3. Machu Picchu
Meet Alfred – the globetrotting gnome. Clearly, this hat was made for a gnome. I’ve photographed Alfred on five continents over the past six years. He’s an Australian gnome. It was love at first sight at the garden section of K-mart in Sydney. I started making funny gnome cards for my friends and later began to sell them on Etsy because people loved them so much. If a tiny green gnome can travel the world, why can’t you?
4. Havana
It is nearly impossible not to fall victim to the charms of Havana. The drive from the airport to the city center felt as if the clock was rewinding back 60 years. It will always be one of my favorite cities.
5. Arequipa, Peru
The Santa Catalina Monastery is a photographer’s dream. Built in 1580, the maze-like fortress covers an entire block and is filled with colorful courtyards and cobblestone streets. I spent hours walking the alleys until the light vanished.
6. Salar de Uyuni, Bolivia
My friend Manon took this great photo of me on the salt flats in Bolivia. We woke up at 4 a.m. to reach the flats by sunrise. I will never forget the moment the jeep drove onto the flats – an endless sea of white stretched out to greet the pink horizon. I was on a jeep tour with five other travelers—an amazing group of people I’d met on the road. I met three girls (from Switzerland, Belgium and Holland) on a bus crossing the Andes a few days before. They joined me and an Australian couple I met in Argentina on the jeep tour. The best part of traveling is the amazing people you meet!
7. Iquitos, Peru
I choose Iquitos for my Amazon adventure due to it’s remoteness. Despite being the largest city in the Peruvian Amazon, it is only accessible to the world by plane or boat. The wildlife was incredible. Woolly monkeys like the one above were everywhere in the jungle.
8. Uruguay
The crumbling colonial town of Colonia del Sacramento was a charming surprise. The former Portuguese settlement and UNESCO World Heritage site is 50 km from Buenos Aires by ferry. The main purpose of my trip to Uruguay from Argentina was to get US dollars to exchange on the black market for a higher rate in Argentina. (ATMs in Uruguay allow you to withdraw both USD and the local currency.) The town ended up being a great place to photograph. I can’t wait to go back and explore more of the country!
9. Northern California Redwoods
At the end of every big trip, I tack on a smaller trip to visit friends in the States. I flew to San Francisco and road tripped up to the Avenue of the Giants in Northern California with my friend Miles. I try to divide my time between exploring the world and my own country. (My travel digits are currently at 43 countries and 37 states.)
10. Marfa
I love Marfa – a quirky, artsy small town in West Texas. There is an art installation of a mini fake Prada store about 36 miles west of the town. On my first visit in 2014, the store had been vandalized so I wasn’t able to get the photographs I wanted. In October, I drove the six hours back to Marfa and finally got the perfect shot!
COMING UP
I am starting off 2016 with a quick trip to Nicaragua! I’ve got some exciting stories lined up to help you live up to your travel potential in 2016! Let me know what travel questions or topics you want to hear about on the blog. Email me suggestions or leave them in the comments below. Feel free to sign up for the email list to have every post delivered to your inbox! Happy New Year and safe travels!
Five Ways to Travel Better in 2016
When I’m back in Texas, I spend my time exploring the state and cool towns like Marfa.
As the year wraps up, I encourage you to start thinking about your travel resolutions for 2016. I wanted to share a post I wrote for Afar.com a few weeks ago about how to travel smarter, longer and lighter next year!
Here are five ways to make make travel a priority in 2016 and maximize your vacation time:
1. Maximize Weekends. When I studied abroad in England, I spent every weekend exploring and saw more of the country than my local friends who had lived there for decades. I did the same when I moved to Austin, Texas. I took road trips to Marfa, Houston, Big Bend National Park and every quirky, photogenic town people recommended.
Write down a list of places you’ve always wanted to visit but take for granted due to their proximity. Once a month, plan a trip to explore areas closer to home – nearby towns, national parks and attractions within your state. Take friends or family along for a fun day or quick overnight trip.
2. Travel Lighter. Learn to pack smarter and carry on all luggage. I always start packing a few days before a big trip. (It’s way too easy to over pack when I am rushed!) Then, I spend a few minutes each day eliminating items down to only the bare essentials. Packing lighter saves time at the airport because I skip the baggage check line and get to sleep in a few extra minutes!
Pack complimentary colors to maximize outfit options. Limit your shoes to two pairs. Roll clothing to make more space in your bag. No matter where you go, there will be laundry services!
3. Workout. Travel isn’t an excuse to abandon your exercise routine. Instead, use your workout as a reason to explore a new city. (My favorite thing to do on my first morning in a new place is to go for a sunrise run while the tourists are still asleep.) Bike the local neighborhoods, climb a volcano or go sandboarding! Join a tour or do it solo! Either way, you’ll get a more authentic look at the culture.
Consider planning your trip around activities are that are both physically challenging and rewarding. Hike the Inca Trail or the W circuit at Torres del Paine. Climb Kilimanjaro or trek to Everest Base Camp! Push your limits and comfort zone. The stories will be priceless!
4. Take Longer Trips. It’s cheaper to travel for longer periods of time than to take multiple trips. Flights are usually the most expensive part of travel. Once you arrive in a destination, it’s much easier and cheaper to country hop than to take additional trips. Spending a month or three in Southeast Asia is always cheaper than multiple visits.
How do you find the time? For me, it was simple. I took advantage of gaps of time between jobs and after graduation from both college and graduate school. I also quit multiple jobs to travel. Each time I was honest about my reasons for leaving and even got rehired when I returned!
Glance at your work schedule for the year. Devise a detailed plan that allows you to take an extended trip without affecting your productivity. Meet with your boss face-to-face to outline your plan and/or discuss options to work remotely. Be honest and direct. And, offer to bring him back a nice bottle of Argentinean malbec!
5. Start Collecting Miles. I wrapped up a seven-month trip in Central/South America earlier this year. I flew fifteen times and only paid for four flights. The rest were paid for with miles that I collected from traveling (for both work and personal trips) and rewards credit cards.
What’s my secret? Sign up for a rewards credit card and frequent flyer mile accounts at each of the major airlines in your country. The initial sign-up bonus offered by most rewards cards is enough for one free flight! Take advantage of online shopping malls offered by rewards credit cards. Simply click on their customized link to popular retailers (Sephora, Apple, Target, etc.) to earn miles. (This isn’t an excuse to spend frivolously but to collect points of your normal purchases and holiday shopping!)
Don’t forget to collect miles for work travel for flights, hotels and rental cars. (Despite who pays, the person who flies gets the miles!) Double dipping is also key. Hotel loyalty programs like Hilton HHonors let you earn a combination of hotel points and airline miles for every dollar spent on a hotel stay.
COMING UP: Next week, I’ll be posting my favorite travel photos from my 2015 adventures!
Havana Daydreaming: A Photo Guide to Cuba’s Capital
A visit to Cuba is like stepping out of a time machine to the 1950s – streets filled with crumbling colonial buildings, vintage cars and cigar smoke. Every night salsa music leaks into alleys filled with card table domino games.
It is nearly impossible not to fall in love with Havana. It quickly became one of my favorite cities. I spent the majority of my time roaming the streets with my camera or going for long runs along the Malecón, the city’s iconic eight-kilometer long seawall.
I stumbled upon a mural of Che Guvera, the infamous revolutionary, on a run near the ferry terminal. Che is everywhere I go – his face is on t-shirts in Burma, stickers on the back of tuk- tuks in Laos, graffiti in Panama and jeeps in India.
My quest to go to Cuba started on the opposite side of the world in the most unlikely place – Burma. The Asian country was untouched by McDonalds, Starbucks and many influences of the Western world. ATMs weren’t an option. As I stared out the taxi window at the streets of the Yangon, I thought, “This must be what Cuba is like.” I am always fascinated by remote places and life on the fringes of society. I find beauty in the crumbling buildings and weathered streets. It is my favorite thing to photograph along with the street vendors.
Despite the poverty and challenges of life in Cuba, the locals possess an unrelenting warmth and resilience. It is the same resilience I saw in Burma and the remote corners of the Himalayas. They are survivors. As rumors of change sweep through the streets of Havana, my hope is that Cuba can retain its charm during and the quality of life improves dramatically for the locals.
Tips for Traveling in Havana
Where to Stay:
- For the most authentic experience, stay at one of the many casas particulares, bed and breakfasts run by locals out of their homes. The best in Havana is Casa Deysi. She was recommended to me by a Brazilian guy I met traveling. Deysi was amazing and made my trip!
- Prices for casas particulares usually range between $20-30 USD per night for a room. They all have a small white rectangle sign outside with a blue symbol that resembles an upside down anchor.
Where to eat and drink:
- Starbien Restaurante might just be the best meal in Havana. Other great dinner spots include Ivan Justo and La Terraza. All three require reservations.
- Francesca’s Bakery across from Parque Central is a great budget-friendly breakfast spot with amazing ham and cheese croissants.
- The Cuban sandwich at Hotel Nacional on the Malecón is also a must.
- Grab a table at one of Hemingway’s favorite spots – the Floridita. Be sure to order a daiquiri, stay for a few songs by the talented house band and pose for an obligatory photo with Hemingway’s statue.
Money:
- Cuba has a dual currency system – Cuban convertible peso (CUC) and Cuban peso (CUP.) The standard currency is the CUC, which is used for most accommodation, transport and state-owned restaurants. The exchange rate is usually a consistent $1 USD = $1 CUC. Smaller privately-owned restaurants and produce markets will only accept CUP.
- Euros currently get the best exchange rate. ATMS are still limited and very few cards currently work. Currency exchange is available at airport and banks in the city.
- A taxi to central Havana from the airport is a set rate at $25 CUC.
For further information on traveling to Cuba, these articles from the The New York Times and The Guardian are a great resource.
Ten Ways to Maximize Your Frequent Flyer Miles
I traded in a few Delta FF miles for a one-way flight to Ushuaia, Argentina – the gateway to Antartica in January.
I recently wrapped up a seven-month bucket list trip in Central and South America. During the entire trip, I flew about fifteen times but only paid for four flights. The rest were booked with frequent flyer miles.
Whether you’re planning a trip to the Himalayas or Kauai, follow these ten simple ways to maximize your mileage.
1. Sign Up
The first step is to sign up for a frequent flyer mile account with the airline you fly the most often in each of the three major airline alliances: Star Alliance, oneworld and SkyTeam. Otherwise, choose the most logical national/regional airline near your home in each alliance. (For most Americans, the best options are usually Delta, American Airlines, and United.) For family travel, make sure everyone has their own account including children.
2. Airline Alliances
Airline alliances provide more options to both earn and redeem miles. When I lived in Australia for a year, I usually flew Qantas but always earned miles on American Airlines. Even if you book the cheapest flight, the odds are good your airline is part of an alliance. Simply add the frequent flyer number of the corresponding national/regional airline from your country to every reservation.
3. Redeem Wisely
There is an art to redeeming miles. International flights are almost always the best deal. Plus, airline alliances open up a wider range of route options. One-way domestic or international flights are great options for planning multi-city trips.
For U.S. domestic routes, fares under $300 are usually not a great value for award travel. (A mileage award for a domestic flight can be almost as much as a more expensive international flight so choose carefully!) For domestic routes in foreign countries, reward mileage levels can be as low as 6,000 miles one-way!
Book award travel online to avoid fees. If that’s not possible, most airlines will automatically waive the agent fee for booking by phone. If they don’t, be sure ask for a fee wavier.
4. Book Early & Avoid Peak Season
The early bird gets the best deal. During holiday and peak seasons, moving your travel dates back a few weeks or even days can save you up to 75%! Award travel for the holidays should be booked months in advance to snatch the best deals. If you wait, you still might get award flights, but you’ll have a higher chance of ending up with multiple layovers.
Start racking up FF miles so you can photograph seals in Beagle Channel, Ushuaia, Argentina!
5. Double Dip
Many hotel and other loyalty programs allow you to earn airline miles in conjunction with their points. Hilton HHonors allows you to earn one airline mile per dollar spent. You can even exchange their hotel points for miles! Most airlines also have deals with rental car companies for discounts and bonus miles.
6. Work Travel
There’s nothing better than getting paid to travel. Many people forget to collect miles on work travel for airlines, hotels and rental cars. Regardless of who pays for the flight, the person who flies gets the miles. But, make sure all hotel and car reservations are in your name to ensure you get mileage credit!
7. Rewards Credit Cards
Almost every reward credit card includes a signup bonus offer – spend a certain amount (usually $1,000) in the first 90 days and receive up to a 40,000-mile bonus. That’s more than enough for a round-trip flight from the U.S. to Central/South America or a one-way flight to Europe!
Airline-based cards often give you double points for flight purchases and either a discount or percentage back for redeemed miles. You also get free checked bags for you and companions; plus, priority boarding! (Keep in mind award cards usually have an annual fee that is waived the first year.)
Some non-airline cards allow you to redeem miles for the partial cost of the flight. The best part is that you can still earn miles on those flights!
8. Dining Programs
Earn miles while you eat! Most major airlines have dining programs that allow you to register all of your bank cards. You earn points when you dine at a participating restaurant with any of the cards linked to your account!
9. Mileage Shopping Malls
Online shoppers should check out airline mileage shopping malls. Many offer extra points when purchasing online through their mall, which links to websites of popular retailers like Apple, Target and Home Depot. Simply click on your airline or credit card’s link to the retailer’s website and all purchases made will earn bonus miles.
Bonus mileage varies per retailer and ranges dramatically with regular promotions. Maximize your points by using your rewards credit card for purchases. There’s no better place to do your holiday shopping!
10. Social Media
Many airlines offer free miles on social media for watching videos or participating in online promotions. Plus, it’s also a great way to keep up to date about their current sales, new routes and mileage promotions.
(This is a post I originally wrote for AFAR.com.)
ROAD TRIP: Top 5 Things to Do in Charleston
Take a stroll down the Battery. The iconic defensive seawall turned promenade is lined with antebellum homes.
I always find an excuse for a road trip to Charleston when I visit my family in South Carolina. There are few places I love more than this seaside city that has a history as savory as the soul food.
Here are five reasons to fall in love with Charleston:
Historic Homes
Bridges and steeples fill the Charleston skyline. The colonial streets are lined with ghost-filled mansions wrapped in layers of porches. If those mansions could talk, they would tell tales of pirates, earthquakes and great battles.
Many of those historic homes are open to the public for tours including the 1772 Heyward-Washington House. It is named after owner Thomas Heyward, Jr., who signed the Declaration of Independence, and George Washington who briefly rented the home in 1791. The house is famous for its collection of Charleston-made furniture including the stunning Holmes Bookcase, which is considered to be the finest example of American-made colonial furniture. Other notable homes to visit include the Nathaniel Russell House Museum and Joseph Manigault House.
My favorite house in Charleston is the 1856 Porcher-Simonds house which is known as the Compromise House. It is not open to the public.
Savory Soul Food
There is a line outside Jestine’s Kitchen for a reason – the fried chicken is legendary. The meat and three restaurant serves up Southern favorites like mac and cheese, banana pudding and collards. Treat yourself to the pumpkin ravioli at Sermet’s Downtown – a delectable Mediterranean bistro, conveniently located in the King Street shopping district. Don’t forget to make dinner reservations at the white-table cloth Peninsula Grill, located across from the City Market, for a juicy steak or oysters. Be sure to save a little room for their famous coconut cake.
The fried chicken plate at Jestine’s Kitchen in Charleston, SC is a must for lunch.
Cooper River Bridge
The icon of the Charleston skyline is the Cooper River Bridge, North America’s longest cable-stayed bridge. It opened in July 2005 to replace the aging bridge. It’s a must for any trip to the city. Be sure to walk the bridge’s 2.7-mile pedestrian and bike trail for great views of the harbor.
The Arthur Ravenel Jr. Bridge (Cooper River Bridge) links Charleston to Mount Pleasant.
Rainbow Row
Stroll over to the most photographed place in Charleston—Rainbow Row, thirteen pastel-colored houses along East Bay Street. Continue walking to the Battery, the iconic defensive seawall turned promenade lined with stately antebellum mansions. The Battery offers a view of Fort Sumter, where the first shots of the Civil War were fired in 1861, and the USS Yorktown, a WWII battleship turned museum located at Patriots Point Naval and Maritime Museum.
The paint color of historic homes like Rainbow Row must be approved by the Board of Architectural Review.
Morris Island Lighthouse
There’s no shortage of beaches in Charleston. My favorite is laid-back Folly Beach. Walk to the end of the beach for a scenic view of the historic 1876 Morris Island Lighthouse, which now stands several hundred yards offshore due to erosion. To reach the lighthouse, take Center Street until it ends then turn left on the E. Ashley Avenue until it reaches a dead end. Park on the side of the road and walk down the path to the beach.
Other beach options include the swanky Isle of Palms or Sullivan’s Island, which is filled with colorful houses with quirky names.
The Morris Island Lighthouse on Folly Beach is 12 miles from downtown.
This guide is an excerpt from the story I wrote and photographed for Birmingham Magazine.