Photo Guide to Mesa Verde National Park
Cliff Palace cliff dwelling photographed from the Cliff Palace Viewpoint by Sun Temple on Mesa Loop. Camera Settings: f/16 @ 1/250, ISO 400, 350 mm (70-200mm lens with 2X teleconverter.)
Mesa Verde National Park is one of my favorite places in the Southwest. In 1906, it became the seventh national park in the U.S. in 1906 and is home to hundreds of ancient cliff dwellings. Now, it’s a World Heritage Site and International Dark Sky Park. In this post, I included a detailed list of the best things to see in Mesa Verde along with the best times for photography. For logistics about cost and where to stay at Mesa Verde National Park, please read the FAQ section at the end of the post.
Why is Mesa Verde Worth Visiting?
Mesa Verde National Park is home to over 600 cliff dwellings built by the ancestral Pueblo people starting in A.D. 550. The settlements evolved from half-buried pit houses to above-ground multi-room and often multi-story complexes made of stones and mud mortar, with thick wooden beams supporting roofs topped with a layer of dirt. Kivas, circular ceremonial chambers, were also key features. The walls were often covered in plaster. The settlement was abandoned by 1300 with any clear indication of why, but several theories suggest climate change or conflict. In addition to the cliff dwelling tours, be sure to stop by the Mesa Verde Museum and the Mesa Verde Visitors Center.
Where is Mesa Verde National Park?
Mesa Verde National Park is in southwestern Colorado and the closet town is Cortez, Colorado, which is where I recommend staying. It’s a 13-minute drive from Cortez to the park entrance but another 45-to-60-minute drive from the entrance to the main sites and cliff dwellings.
Guide to Mesa Verde National Park
These maps from the NPS show the main areas of the park, Chapin and Wetherill Mesa, which are up to an hour drive from the park entrance.
There are two main sections of the park – Wetherill Mesa and Chapin Mesa. Chapin Mesa includes Mesa Loop, Cliff Palace Loop and Spruce Tree House. Wetherill Mesa is a good 30–60-minute drive from the other sites, which are closer together. It can take 45 to 60 minutes to drive from the park entrance to any of the locations listed. All park roads are narrow two-lane winding roads so driving between sights can take a while if there’s traffic or construction. (There was a good bit of construction when I visited, and Cliff Palace Loop was closed. It’s slated to be open summer 2025 if construction on viewing platforms is completed.) Check the park website for detailed maps and road closure notices before visiting.
Best Photo Spots in Mesa Verde National Park
I’ve organized my favorite photo spots in Mesa Verde National Park by location: Chapin Mesa versus Wetherill Mesa.
Chapin Mesa
Square Tower House photographed from the viewpoint in the early afternoon. Camera Settings: f/11 @ 1/320, ISO 400, 95 mm with 70-200mm lens
Chapin Mesa is the location for Mesa Loop, Cliff Palace Loop and Spruce Tree House. It’s the most popular portion of the park and most crowded. Cliff Palace Loop is currently closed as of October 2024 per a notice on the website in early 2025.
Cliff Palace Loop
Cliff Palace cliff dwelling photographed from the Cliff Palace Viewpoint by Sun Temple on Mesa Loop. Camera Settings: f/16 @ 1/250, ISO 400, 350 mm (70-200mm lens with 2X teleconverter.)
Cliff Palace Loop is located on Chapin Mesa and was closed due to construction when I visited. (It’s slated to be open summer 2025.) When the loop is open, Cliff Palace Dwelling is only accessible by guided tours for $8/person. The loop also contains Balcony House and the Soda Canyon Trail.
Mesa Loop
New Fire Temple and New Fire House Overlook on Mesa Loop. Camera Settings: f/8 @ 1/1600, ISO 800, 240 mm with a 70-200mm lens with 2X teleconverter. The wind was insane here, which is why my shutter speed and ISO were high.
The six-mile Mesa Loop, located on Chapin Mesa, will take a while to drive because there’s so much to see. Sunrise shots aren’t an option here because the road doesn’t open until the staff arrive (varies based on staffing so check website for details), but sunset is possible. Law enforcement will sweep the road before they close the gates at sunset so you can shoot until they come along. While it was cool to see the pit houses, they aren’t the best with photography because they are in buildings with guard rails. The viewpoints of the dwellings were the best photo spots. I recommend downloading the free Mesa Loop driving tour podcast before visiting.
Square Tower House
There is a crow’s nest set of buildings in in the corner of the canyon at Square Tower House that can only be seen on the tour. Camera Settings: f/9 @ 1/320, ISO 1250, 38mm with a 24-70mm lens.
The house itself is in the shade in the morning and full sun later in the afternoon. I recommend shooting in the afternoon to get the light on the house and the cliff. For tours, it’s best to go in the morning when the house is in the shade to avoid harsh shadows in the afternoon. The trail is only a mile but includes two ladders. It was my favorite of the two ranger-guided tours I did. There’s a cool Crow’s Nest building that can’t be seen from the viewpoint that we kept joking was a kid’s treehouse!
Cliff Palace Viewpoint by Sun Temple
Cliff Palace cliff dwelling photographed from the Cliff Palace Viewpoint by Sun Temple on Mesa Loop. Camera Settings: f/11 @ 1/400, ISO 500, 98mm with 70-200mm lens. This was shot at roughly 4:30 p.m. in May. I’d suggest going earlier in day to avoid the dark shadow on left.
Spruce Tree House
The view of Spruce Tree House from the back porch of the ranger’s office is one the best viewports in my opinion. Camera Settings: f/11 @ 1/320, ISO 400, 48mm with a 24-70mm lens.
Due to rock falls, Spruce Tree House is closed for the foreseeable future. (Previously, it was open to a self-guided tour.) There’s a lovely view of it from the back porch of the ranger’s office, which is better than the viewpoint below on the trail because it puts you above some of the trees. Unlike the other loops Spruce Tree House area is open 24/7 so you can shoot at sunrise or sunset easily, which I’d recommend. Otherwise, you’ll have to time your shoot between 3-5 p.m. to get light on the house while avoiding shadows from the cliff above or the trees in front. Around 6 p.m. the shadows from the trees in front really photobomb the image.
I’d only recommend sunrise/sunset shoots if you feel comfortable driving the two-lane winding park roads in the dark. The roads are well maintained but pretty scary driving out of the park at night, which is why I never stayed for sunset. There are some pretty steep drop-offs with no guardrails on the road! Plus, wildlife is another concern at night – there are still wild horses roaming the park. Due to this, I wasn’t happy with any of my images of Spruce Tree House.
The bathrooms at Spruce Tree House are the best ones. Mesa Loop only had portable toilets when I was there.
Wetherill Mesa
(Wetherill Mesa was closed for all of 2024 but the park office said it should hopefully be open in summer 2025 depending on staffing.)
The majority of the trails at Wetherill Mesa are flat unless you are touring one of the cliff dwellings.
Once you arrive at Wetherill Mesa, you have to walk to the sites. No cars are allowed beyond the parking lot. All the trails to viewpoints are flat and easily bikeable. (This is the ONLY area in the park where bikes are allowed!) There’s no shade so go early or be prepared for the sun and wind! The area is open from May to October and is usually the quieter part of the park. Allow a least half a day to see all the sites excluding dwelling tours. There’s a ranger posted at a desk at the entrance. I’ve listed the sites you can physically visit below, but there are more sites you can see from viewpoints. It takes about 45 minutes to drive to Wetherill Mesa from Chapin Mesa and about 45-60 minutes from the park entrance!
Step House
Petroglyphs inside Step House at Wetherill Mesa. This dwelling isn’t as amazing as the others but is very accessible.
A one-mile roundtrip trail starts at the kiosk and leads through the cliff dwelling that was once home to 30-40 people. It’s a unique site with a reconstructed pit house constructed around 620 and a multi-story pueblo built in 1226. It’s not as impressive as the other dwellings on the guided tours but this is the most accessible by foot, which is why they allow self-guided tours. A ranger is always on duty to answer questions at the site.
Mug House
Mug House isn’t visible from any viewpoints and can only be visited on a tour. Camera Settings: f/10 @ 1/160, ISO 640, 52mm with a 24-70mm lens.
Mug House isn’t listed on any map and is only accessible by guided tour with a ranger. It’s a three-mile roundtrip hike from the kiosk and not visible from any viewpoint. While it’s labeled as a strenuous hike, I didn’t think it was bad. I did the noon tour, and the site was still in the shade since it faces west. The dwelling was named for three mugs found tied together on the site. Tours are $25/person with a maximum of 10 people.
Long House
Long House is the second-largest cliff dwelling in the park with 150 rooms and accessible only by a ranger-guided tour. ($8/person) It’s the most in-depth tour offered at the park but wasn’t available on the dates I visited.
Trails at Wetherill Mesa
Nordenskiöld Site #16 photographed from the viewpoint. Camera Settings: f/8 @ 1/640, ISO 400, 60mm with a 24-70mm.
The main trail is the paved five-mile Long House Loop that’s great for hiking or biking. The Kodak House overlook (2.5 miles) and Long House overlook (1.5 miles) are located on the trail. Bikes have to be parked at the trailhead while you walk the .15-mile trail to the overlooks. The Badger House Community Trail (2.25 miles RT) weaves through four mesa-top sites and crosses the Long House Loop trail. The Nordenskiöld Site #16 Trail leads to an overlook of the cliff dwelling and is two miles roundtrip. All trails are relatively flat but exposed to sun/wind. (Due to the heat and exhaustion of doing two dwelling tours and Step House back-to-back, I only did the Nordenskiöld Site #16 Trail.)
Far View Sites
I had the Far View Sites to myself at sunset, which I recommend to avoid people in your photos. Camera Settings: f/6.8 @ 1/80, ISO 1000, 32mm with a 24-70mm.
The Far View area was a mesa-top community and one of the most densely populated regions. A .75-mile trail leads through ruins of several houses and a reservoir. I went right before sunset and really enjoyed this small walk. It’s definitely underrated and worth a visit! The site is open from 8 a.m. to sunset. It’s located on the main park road.
Hiking Trails at Mesa Verde National Park
The main park road has several scenic viewpoints including this one — Park Point Viewpoint, the highest point in Mesa Verde.
There are several hiking trails throughout the park. Many of the ones I was interested in were closed partially due to Cliff Palace Loop construction, which should be open in 2025. Elevation in the park ranges from 7,000 to 8,500 feet so carrying camera gear gets even harder if you’re not used to the elevation. The sun is relentless, and there’s very little shade so start hikes early. Since I was so focused on photography and booked the dwelling tours, I didn’t get to do any other hikes due to the heat. I wanted to do Petroglyph Point but skipped it since I was going to Petroglyph National Monument in Albuquerque a few days later.
The Mesa Verde Museum Association offers free downloadable site guides for Cliff Palace, Spruce Tree House, Wetherill Mesa (Step & Long House) and Balcony House.
Photo Tips for Mesa Verde National Park
I stopped at an unmarked viewpoint to take this photo while I was leaving the park at sunset.
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Lenses: You’ll need at least a 70-200mm zoom lens from the viewpoints for most of the cliff dwellings. I’d recommend a 400mm or a teleconverter as well. (I rented a Nikon 2X teleconverter from LensRentals.com for my trip to test it out, but I’d recommend a 1.4x teleconverter instead because that’s much sharper.)
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Filters: A circular polarizer is a big help with the blue skies and helps reduce glare on the rocks, especially when shooting petroglyphs in the sun. A graduated neutral density filter would also be helpful with contrast but can be time consuming.
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Take a Tripod: The wind is fierce so change lenses in your car or take two camera bodies. I’d recommend a tripod in low light or even with the teleconverter since the wind will knock you around. I used my Peak Design Travel Tripod, and it was perfect with my 70-200mm with the 2X teleconverter.
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Photo Guide: At the entrance kiosk, they have an amateur photography guide with a chart of the most photographed areas in the park and the best times to shoot during the summer. I’ve included the chart below.
This is a scan of the National Park Service’s amateur photography guide for Mesa Verde National Park that is available at visitors center and entrance kiosks. The best times and locations for summer are bolded.
Mesa Verde National Park FAQ
Every year there’s a series of “dry” lightning fires on the mesa tops, which are usually labeled by signs with the date of the fire. Since the park was established in 1906, 70 percent of the park has been burned by wildfires.
How much time do you need to visit Mesa Verde National Park?
Not all the sites are Mesa Verde are open at the same time each year so it honestly will probably take multiple trips to see it all. Otherwise, I’d suggest at least three to four full days and possibly more for photography. You could spend an afternoon going to the main sights on Mesa Loop but what makes this place special is going into the dwellings on a tour! It can take 45 to 60 minutes to drive from the park entrance to any of the locations listed above. All park roads are narrow two-lane winding roads so driving between sights can take a while if there’s traffic or construction. I was only here for two days (too short) because I added this on to a New Mexico road trip but plan to come back in the next year or two.
How much does it cost to visit Mesa Verde National Park?
For private vehicles, the entry fee is $30 from May 10-Oct. 22 and $20 from Oct. 23- April 30. Motorcycles are $25 from May 10-Oct. 22 and $15 from Oct. 23- April 30. The park also sells annual $55 passes. If you’re going to visit more than one national park, I’d recommend an annual pass for $80 that covers one vehicle or up to four people. If there are cancelations, they will show up on Recration.gov. I recommend setting reminders and be logged in ready to book at 8 a.m. MDT. I got every tour I wanted using this strategy. Since cell service is limited in the park, save digital tickets to your phone or take a screenshot.
Can you tour the cliff dwellings at Mesa Verde National Park?
Mug House on Wetherill Mesa // The cliff dwellings are all made with rocks and mud mortar. The roofs were made of wood and covered in a layer of dirt. The black areas in the caves were the result of fires from the kitchen areas. Camera Settings: f/7.1 @ 1/250, ISO 650, 60mm with a 24-70mm lens.
Step House is the only cliff dwelling that’s publicly accessible for a free self-guided tour. A handful of other dwellings are open for either ranger-assisted or ranger-guided tours for $8-45/person, which trust me is worth it, especially for photography. The only way to get detailed shots of the dwellings is to do a tour, which books up fast and reservations open at 8 a.m. MST 14 days before the date. (I was literally on my computer when the clock it 8 a.m. to book my tours! Each tour only had 10 spots!)
The dwellings that are open for tours varies each year, so check the park website for updates. I toured Square Tower House in the morning and Mug House in the afternoon. (Both were $25 each.) I highly recommend both but loved Square Tower House the most. Read the details for the tour carefully as some require climbing ladders on the trail.
More tours are offered during the summer, which is also the busiest season so expect crowds. Other sites available for tours are Long House and Spring House, which is an eight-mile full-day tour only offered four times this summer. There are other sites available for limited dates, which vary each year. For more information on guided tours, visit the NPS website.
Is there cell service in Mesa Verde National Park?
Cell service is non-existent in most parts of the park. Download offline maps before visiting the park. Keep in mind that it’s a 45–60-minute drive from the entrance to the main sites.
What’s the best time to visit Mesa Verde National Park?
Spring (May) and fall (September and October) are the best time to visit for weather and to avoid the crowds. Most cliff-dwelling tours are open during these dates. Summer means more daylight but more crowds and often intense heat. (There’s not a lot of shade in the park.) The park is open in winter but facilities are limited and snow can make things hard to access. (I visited in mid-May and highly recommend that time of year.)
Where to stay at Mesa Verde National Park?
The most budget-friendly option is the Morefield Campgrounds (all services open May to September in addition to limited October options) in the park, which has direct access to some of the best hiking trails that are focused more on scenery than cliff dwellings. The Far View Lodge (starting at $146/night) is an excellent location in the park for photography because it’s close to attractions and located past the scariest portions of the road.
There’s a plethora of other camp and RV sites including a KOA and most hotel brands available on the way to the park or in the city Cortez, which is just a 10–15-minute drive from the park entrance. I stayed at the Hampton Inn in Cortez, which was cheaper and rated higher than the Far View Lodge. (Prices vary by season.) I brought my own food to cut costs, so I didn’t eat out at all.
This post originally appeared online in 2021; it was recently updated in February 2025 to include current information.
I Visit Vietnam Every Year – Here are my Favorite Places (and Where to Avoid)
Like India, Vietnam can be a sensory overload of beauty and complexity. The scenery is diverse—the mist-covered mountains of Sapa, the seemingly endless swarms of motorbikes in Hanoi and the tower limestone pillars of Ha Long Bay. I consider travel the best teacher, and there’s no better place to get a lesson in world history than this Southeast Asian nation.
I visit Vietnam at least once a year for work, so I decided it was time to compile a travel guide of my favorite places to visit in Vietnam and the ones to avoid. (I’ve worked for multiple travel companies running trips across the country. In addition, I did a month-long 2019 backpacking trip to some lesser-visited spots.)
Keep reading for all the details about where to go in Vietnam and how to best prepare for your trip! (The locations are organized by region: north, central and southern Vietnam.)
Affiliate links are used in this post. If you make a purchase, I earn a small commission at no cost to you, which goes toward the cost of maintaining this blog.
I recommend booking transfers on Klook for convenience and using 12go.asia for bus and train tickets if it’s too much hassle to go to the station to buy them directly. Please read reviews before booking.
Plan Your Trip
Currency: Vietnamese Dong (VND)
When to Go: July to September for beaches. December to March for cooler temperatures.
Travel Insurance: Protect yourself with SafetyWing travel medical insurance to cover accidents and travel delays.
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Northern Vietnam
The best time to go swimming in Ha Long Bay, Vietnam is between April and October.
1. Ha Long Bay & Lan Ha Bay
Ha Long Bay, a UNESCO site, is one of those places like Machu Picchu that you must visit once in your life. The scenery is postcard-perfect: towering limestone karsts and over 1,100 islands scattered through the Gulf of Tonkin’s emerald waters. It is the number one attraction in Vietnam. The best way to experience the bay is to do a multiple-day cruise on a houseboat to explore the islands, swim and eat year weight in fresh seafood! There are day boat trips and overnight cruises for every budget. I recommend spending a night or two on a houseboat!
Ha Long Bay vs. Lan Ha Bay
Historically, Ha Long Bay spread across two provinces and was split into sections controlled by two different local governments—Ha Long Bay to the north and the Lan Ha Bay to the south bordering the coast of Cat Ba Island. (Both bays are included in the UNESCO area.) Over 300 boats operate in Ha Long Bay (popular with Chinese tourists) but only 64 in Lan Ha Bay, according to my local guide on a recent visit.
While both share the same scenery, Lan Han Bay has less pollution and tourists, but less infrastructure, which I’ve witnessed on my visits to both. There are no caves in Lan Ha Bay or scenic viewpoints like the one in my photo above from Ha Long Bay. The caves are one of the noteworthy features in the UNESCO nomination. While the caves are stunning, they get crowded.
While it’s possible to book last-minute budget tours on Klook or GetYourGuide, luxury boats, like the Ginger by Heritage Line, (stunning ship I stayed on for work trip) fill up four months in advance. To visit both bays, consider booking separate back-to-back one-night trips on different boats. (Only a couple of boats with good government relationships can operate in both bays.)
When to Visit Ha Long Bay & Lan Ha Bay
If you want blue skies, visit from April to October. June to August is steaming hot but less crowded. November to March brings cooler weather (highs in the 60s in January) but often consistent gray skies. September to October is packed with tourists. My visits have always been in January or July. I prefer July for blue skies.
How to Get to Ha Long Bay
Most people fly into Hanoi’s Noi Bai International Airport, the country’s second-largest airport, and take a transfer. (There are two smaller airports near Ha Long Bay—Van Don International and Cat Bi International.) If a transfer isn’t included in your boat tour, you can find affordable transfers through Klook. It’s roughly a three-hour drive.
If you like the idea of riding a boat through stunning caves, then add Tam Coc to your list. The rowers use their feet to move the oars just like this guy!
2. Ninh Binh
The Ninh Binh province is known as the “Ha Long Bay on land” famous for row boat tours through giant caves and alongside limestone karsts. The most stunning boat ride is Trang An (Route 3), which is a three-hour tour through spectacular scenery and the kilometer-long Hang Dot cave.
When the rice fields are green (wet season), Tam Coc, a 1.5-hour boat trip where the boat guides row with their feet, is beautiful, but Trang An is better if you only have time for one.
The viewpoint from Mua Cave is worth the 500-stair climb but again is best when the rice fields are green. My other favorite places include the picturesque Bich Dong Pagoda and cave temple (free entry), and Bai Dinh Pagoda, a photogenic 4,200-acre Buddhist complex, one of the largest in Southeast Asia, that’s easily explored on an electric cart shuttle.
Hoa Lu Old Town in Ninh Binh City is a stunning sight of two towering modern pagodas lit up at night with detailed carvings inside. This free attraction was built in 2022, so don’t get it confused with Hoa Lu Ancient Town, the historic site of the first capital of Vietnam that’s 11 kilometers away.
Tam Coc is a good base for exploring the area. In January 2025, I stayed at Tam Coc Mountain Sunset and Garden Hotel ($30 USD/night) with spacious rooms with a convenient location with a pool and helpful English-speaking owner. I recommend staying a few nights in the area, but there’s also plenty of day tours from Hanoi if you are short on time.
How to Get to Ninh Binh Province
The Ninh Binh province is roughly an hour and 45 minutes southeast of Hanoi. The cheapest option is public buses from Hanoi. I recently took this $7 shared transfer from Hanoi, which was efficient and involved transferring to an SUV to drop me off directly at my hotel.
This shot from Sapa is one of my favorite travel images from Asia.
3. Sapa
The former 1922 French hill station is the trekking mecca of Vietnam. The views of the valley from the town are stunning. (The photo above is one of my favorite images I’ve shot in all my years in Asia.)
Popular treks include Fansipan, the highest mountain in Vietnam (3143 m); Cat Cat, a village three kilometers south of Sapa; Ta Phin Village, a 10-kilometer hike from the city; Sa Seng & Hang Da, a hike along the eastern ridge is great for valley views. Be warned—the tourist touts and aggressive vendors are relentless in Sapa. (I visited a village with a student group and each student had one vendor following them around town the entire day trying to see them something.) Despite this, the scenery is unreal and worth the trip!
How to get to Sapa
Sapa is located 195 miles northwest of Hanoi (closest airport) near the China border. By car or bus, it’s about a five-to-six-hour journey depending on traffic. I’ve taken the roughly seven-hour sleeper train previously, which goes from Hanoi to Lao Cai (closest station to Sapa). It’s an additional 50-minute transfer from there to Sapa. There are also cheaper sleeper buses for about half the price of the train ($11-16 USD).
Hanoi is the mecca of the motorbike madness, and this is just a taste of the crazy things you’ll see on motorbikes there!
4. Hanoi
Hanoi is both the capital of the country and the chaos. Hordes of motorbikes cover the streets. Find a safe spot on the sidewalk to people watch as the motorbikes defy gravity and logic with their loads which range from refrigerators to a family of five with a dog and my favorite – dozens of plastic bags filled with water and live goldfish tied to a giant hoop structure on the back of the bike.
Wander the streets of the Old Quarter and the Hoan Kiemshopping district where streets are organized by the goods they sell. (This is really annoying if you need to buy a pen and you’re on the shoe street.) Pho bo (beef noodle shop) is a must for breakfast along with a traditional Vietnamese coffee, which is medium to coarse ground dark roast with a small metal drip filter.
For a bánh mi, try Banh Mi 25. The Note Cafe is an Instagramable spot covered floor-to-ceiling in post-it notes while JOMA is one of my favorite café chains in Southeast Asia for breakfast. For an adrenaline adventure, visit Hanoi 1990s, a small cafe perched on the edge of Hanoi’s famous train street where a handful of trains come buzzing by daily just inches from your table.
Go for a stroll around Hoàn Kiếm Lake and cross the red bridge to Ngoc Son Temple. Stop by the Temple of Literature and the Ho Chi Minh Museum. If you want to say hello to “Uncle Ho”, stop by his mausoleum. Be warned – he’s been preserved and is on full display in typical communist fashion. For more details on the city, check out my Hanoi guide.
How to get to Hanoi
Hanoi is home to the second busiest airport in the Vietnam and connected by bus or train easily to major destinations across the country. While Ho Chi Minh City has more international flights, Hanoi is also easy to get to.
Central Vietnam
The Japanese Covered Bridge is one of the top sights in Hoi An. After a week of rain, this is the first time I saw blue sky!
5. Hoi An
Hoi An is my favorite city in Vietnam. The UNESCO site is one of Southeast Asia’s major seaports and reminds me a bit of Charleston—the same quaint historic charm, old colonial buildings and an overload of tourists. As per usual, I got up at sunrise every morning to photograph the city and did the same at sunset. Highlights include the Japanese Covered Bridge, the Assembly Hall of Cantonese Chine Congregation, which has cool dragon carvings, and the Assembly Hall of the Fujian Chinese Congregation.
The best Banh Mi spots in town are Banh Mi Queen (I loved the chicken!) and Banh Mi Phuong (Anthony Bourdain loved this spot). Streets Restaurant Café had the best Cau Lau I had on the whole trip. It’s also a nonprofit that trains underprivileged youth to work in culinary and hospitality fields.
How to get to Hoi An
The closest airport is Da Nang, which is roughly a 30-minute drive. I booked a direct transfer to Hoi A from Da Nang on Klook for around $10, but there are even cheaper group transfers. Read reviews before booking!
I highly recommend visiting the ruins of My Son, a Hindu temple complex built between the 4th and 14th Century to honor the god Shiva. It’s easily assessable from Hoi An or Da Nang by tour, car or motorbike. I did the sunrise tour to avoid the crowds in my photos.
Day Trips from Hoi An
Hoi An is a great hub to do a few day trips including visiting My Son, the ruins of a Hindu temple complex. (Consider booking one of the sunrise tours I loved being there so early!) You can do it on your own if you have a motorbike. I also recommend renting a bicycle and heading over to the coconut village for a boat ride on one of the circular boats. It’s a very touristy thing but such a fun experience. Check out my Vietnam Instagram story for videos from the trip!
Traveling to Southeast Asia?
Read my guides to Thailand, Chiang Mai, Bangkok and Singapore!
Left: Pongour Waterfalls outside of Da Lat. Right: Crazy House, a Gaudi-inspired tourist site that is also a hotel mixed in the site.
6. Da Lat
Da Lat is the Medellin of Vietnam. The French fled to this mountainous region to escape the heat. It’s now the adventure capital—trekking, canyoning, white water rafting and mountain biking are all options. The vibe is much more laid back than the rest of Vietnam, which I loved. I spent most of my time here visiting waterfalls. My favorite was Pongour, but the roller coaster at Datanla waterfall is a must. (It’s a one-car self-controlled system so it’s super fun!) I recommend checking out the Hang Nga Crazy House, which was built by a Vietnamese architect inspired by Gaudi. You can visit and also book a room for the night! Don’t miss the 100 Roofs Bar that resembles the set of a Lord of the Rings movie.
How to get to Da Lat
The closest airport is Lien Khuong Airport, roughly 18 miles south of the city. There are sleeper buses from Hanoi (7 hours) and vans/buses from Nha Trang (4 hours) and Mui Ne (5 hours). I took a long-haul sleeper bus from Hoi An (14 hours).
Southern Vietnam
Left: Fairy Spring in Mui Ne, Vietnam. Right: The “white” sand dunes that are 24 km from town.
7. Mui Ne
Mui Ne is the kitesurfing capital of Vietnam. The town itself doesn’t have the best beach but the town is close to some cool attractions. For $5, you can take a jeep tour to the red sand dunes near town and the white sand dunes (24 km from town). The tours also take you to Fairy Spring, a stream that flows through some cool rock formations and sand dunes. (It’s easily accessible from town by foot.)
The best place to eat in town is a Mediterranean spot called Sindbad and Dong Vui Food Court, an open-air food court with independently run stalls that range from German sausages to paella. There are also loads of Vietnamese options and tons of beer.
Ke Ga Lighthouse was one of my favorite spots in Central Vietnam! Very few people visit so I totally recommend it. I had the island to myself!
The main reason I went to Mui Ne was to visit the Ke Ga Lighthouse, a remote lighthouse built by the French in 1899 that lies on a rocky islet 300 meters from the coast. I’m obsessed with lighthouses so I had to go. To get to the lighthouse, you need a scooter or a car. Then, you have to take a ferry to the island ($6 USD in 2019). I had the island mostly to myself except for a few officials working on the island.
For the best photos of the lighthouse, take the dirt paths that lead off to the side and shoot back toward the lighthouse. The lighthouse is right by a fishing village, so the sea is lined with boats to the right of the islet, which is also great for photos.
How to get to Mui Ne
I took a bus from Da Lat to Mui Ne (5 hours) then I took a bus to Ho Chi Minh (3 hours). There is no train station in Mui Ne and the nearest airport is Ho Chi Minh. You can book group and private car transfers on Klook to Ho Chi Minh and other cities.
Banh Mi from L’Usine cafe in Ho Chi Minh.
8. Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon)
Ho Chi Minh City (HCMC) is another epicenter of the motorbike madness. This city is worth a visit for a few days just to witness the chaos and visit the war museum and other war-era sights. The view from Bitexco Financial Tower ($9 USD) really helps put into perspective the expansive size of the city. (I suggest buying tickets advance through Klook for your preferred time slot because it’s same price as buying in person without any lines.) Surprisingly, HCMC is the craft beer capital of Southeast Asia. My favorite breweries were Pasteur Street Brewing Company (great IPA & tap room) and Heart of Darkness. BiaCraft and Belgo (Belgian brewery) also have good brews and food.
My favorite cafes and sandwich spots to eat are The Old Compass, L’Usine, The Vintage Emporium, and Banh Mi 3362. ABC Bakery Café was a great spot to grab a fast and cheap breakfast to go!
Au Lac Charner ($73/night plus taxes) is my favorite hotel with a rooftop pool in Ho Chin Minh City. It also has free breakfast and is located by the Bitexco Financial Tower. (My favorite hostel closed during the pandemic so I don’t have any hostel suggestions, unfortunately.) If you’re looking to splurge, the Park Hyatt Saigon ($289) is the nicest hotel in town with an amazing pool, gym and a mind-blowing breakfast! (I stay at the Park Hyatt for work but at the Au Lac Charner otherwise.)
How to get to Ho Chi Minh City
Ho Chi Minh is home to the busiest airport in Vietnam and the main transport hub. (I always fly through Ho Chi Minh when I’m flying back to the U.S. from Southeast Asia because I fly through Japan because of my successful points hacking with American Airlines/ oneworld alliance.) You can take buses, vans and the train anywhere in Vietnam from there. Keep in mind that Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh are on opposite ends of the country and a 30-hour train ride apart.
Left: Artillery left over after the Vietnam War is on display at the Ben Douc tunnels, part of the Cu Chi Tunnels. Right: The entrance to one of the tunnels.
9. Cu Chi Tunnels
Cu Chi is a rural area about 30 to 40 km from Ho Chi Min that’s famous for a legendary spiderweb of tunnels used in the 1960s by the Viet Cong to control the area. There are two sets of tunnels: Ben Dinh and Ben Duoc. Ben Dinh is the most touristy one because it’s easier for tour buses to reach it. Ben Duoc is the best one in my opinion because it’s not touristy. (Trust me, I’ve been to both!) There was only a handful of people when we went. (We went by public bus from Ho Chi Minh City, which was one of my favorite days in Vietnam. I wrote a post about how to get to the Ben Douc tunnels by public bus.)
I’ve found conflicting sources that state that Ben Dinh was constructed only for tourists and Ben Douc is part of the real tunnel network. I can’t find a reliable source to verify this. Lonely Planet says that Ben Douc was widened for tourists but is less touristy. (There’s a set of stairs leading into the tunnels, which clearly can’t be original. Honestly, they probably both were widened at the entrances, but they are still tiny.)
How to get to the Cu Chi Tunnels
While it’s easy to find tours to visit Ben Dinh, I recommend taking the public buses (they have air conditioning!) to Ben Douc using my step-by-step guide!
Read my guide on how to get to the Cu Chi Tunnels (Ben Douc) by public bus!
Vendors tie what they are selling to poles at the Cai Rang Floating Market in the Mekong Delta near Can Tho.
10. Mekong Delta
Can Tho is the main hub in the Mekong Delta that’s filled with large gardens and bustling markets. It’s the jumping-off point for visiting the famous Cai Rang Floating Market, the biggest one in the Delta. Vendors tie what they are selling to a pole so you can shop easily. There are also boats that serve coffee.
Tours are available, but I recommend showing up at the dock at 5 a.m. to negotiate for your own boat. I went with a friend and we met three cool Australians who joined us. We paid about $4.30 USD each in 2019. One of the highlights was stopping by a fruit orchard. We got to paddle around in little boats in the orchard and sample the fruits. This town is also memorable because it’s how I ended up in a van with a rooster for five hours. I’m also a huge fan of the market town of Chau Doc, which has a wet market that’s really cool to photograph.
How to get to Can Tho, Mekong Delta
Can Tho is a four-hour bus ride from Ho Chi Minh, which is what I’ve done. Can Tho International Airport is only a few miles from the city.
Vietnam FAQ
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Where’s the best place to buy a SIM card in Vietnam?
The easiest thing to do is buy a Vietnam-specific eSIM card from Airalo that will work instantly when you arrive. (Airalo partners with Viettel, the fastest network in Vietnam.) For more details, read my review of Airalo eSIM cards in Southeast Asia.
If you are traveling to multiple countries in Southeast Asia on a short trip, then consider one of their Asia Regional eSIM cards. (Both the country-specific and regional eSIMs have worked wonderfully for me and even have a mobile hotspot option that’s critical for me because I’m always working remotely.) Keep in mind it’s always cheaper to buy a country-specific eSIM than a regional one.
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Where is the best place to get clothes made in Vietnam?
While Ho Ani is the most popular spot in Vietnam to get clothes made, I was unimpressed because every tailor shop I visited only seemed to only have material to make winter suits or wedding dresses. I was looking for wrinkle-resistant fabric for summer dresses and tanks. I tried again in Ho Chi Minh City but didn’t have any luck until a friend introduced me to Elegant Silk, the best place to get clothes made in Ho Chi Minh. This tailor had a wide variety of fabric options. She had silk blend fabric that was fairly wrinkle-resistant. In early 2024, I had her copy an existing tank and dress while also making a new wrap-around skirt for $70 USD.
In Hoi An, I have friends who raved about Blue Chic for men’s suits and Two Ladies for summer dresses.
Where is the best craft beer in Vietnam?
Vietnam has the best craft beer in Asia. Trust me, I’m a craft beer connoisseur and have traveled and lived all over Asia. While Ho Chi Minh is the epicenter, there are also taprooms in Hanoi. The two biggest brands—Pasteur Street Brewing and Heart of Darkness—have multiple tap rooms in HCMC while Pasteur has one in Hanoi. Both do a great job of incorporating local flavors like jasmine and pomelo. (Pasteur Street’s signature Jasmine IPA and Pomelo IPA are my two favorites.) BiaCraft and Belgo (Belgian brewery) also have good brews and food in Ho Chi Minh City. In Da Nang, stop by the Heart of Darkness taproom.
What about the caves in Vietnam?
Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park, a UNESCO site, is filled with hundreds of caves including the world’s biggest cave, Hang Son Doong. (Two of my friends went to Hang Son Doong and loved it. It’s not cheap and you have to book months if not a year in advance.) I was in the area during the rainy season so I didn’t visit any of the caves. (Water levels are a huge safety issue during the rainy season. ) April to August is the best time to go.
How are the beaches in Vietnam?
I’m not a fan of the beaches in Vietnam. I’ve been on a quest to find the best beaches in the world, and they aren’t in Vietnam or even Southeast Asia for that matter. To be brutally honest, every beach I went to in Vietnam was polluted. I even went to Phu Quoc island, one of the main attractions. I went to all the prime snorkeling spots and there was trash and beer cans in the coral. This part of the world is notorious for plastic pollution, and I was there at the end of the rainy season, which tends to kick up more of the pollution.
This is a shot from one of the islands near Phu Quoc that’s part of all the snorkeling tours. All the debris you see on the left side of the frame under the trees is some kind of trash or plastic. Aside from the main small bit of beach, the sides of the island were covered with trash like this.
I visited three beaches in Vietnam—Mui Ne, Na Trang and Phu Quoc—on a 2019 trip and never wanted to go back to them. They were mostly polluted or overrun with tourists. If you stay at a resort then, it’s nice because they clean the beaches, but the snorkeling will still be polluted. (In my opinion, the best beaches in the world are in the Caribbean. Anguilla and Costa Rica are hard to beat. Maldives (resort islands) and Fiji are nice, too.)
Please be kind to the environment and avoid single-use plastics in this part of the world. Read this post about how to be a better eco-friendly traveler.
Vietnam 101: Logistics, Costs & Safety
Alfred the Gnome did a bit of hat shopping in Hoi An. Clearly, this hat was meant for a gnome.
When to Go To Vietnam
Hanoi, Sapa & Northern Vietnam: March – May & September – November
Central Vietnam (Hoi An, Mui Ne, Da Lat): March – September
Ho Chi Minh & South: November to February
July and August are high season. Monsoon rains are common. It’s really cold in Hanoi and northern Vietnam during January so avoid those months especially if you want to swim in Ha Long Bay.
The Cost of Traveling in Vietnam for a Month
In 2019, I spent a month in Vietnam and spent $991 in total. If you look through my Vietnam Instagram story, you’ll find a saved story highlight on Vietnam with a detailed breakdown. This includes my $156 flight from Thailand.
Average Transport Costs: overnight buses ($15); overnight trains ($30) and the ferry roundtrip to Phu Quoc was $20.
Accommodation: Hostels cost about $4-9/night.
Food: Street food ranges from $1.40-2/meal. Restaurants start at $3 and up. Craft beer is $5 in the big cities.
Splurges: I splurged on a $32 snorkeling trip in Phu Quoc (not worth it), $45 lighthouse tour (Ke Ga Lighthouse – totally amazing) and $50 Ba Na Hills visit (only good if the weather is nice).
A round boat anchored to the island where Ke Ga Lighthouse is located outside of Mui Ne in Central Vietnam.
How to Get a Vietnam Visa
Americans need a visa before entry into Vietnam, and an e-visa is the easiest option that I always use. (I visit every year.) E-visas are available for up to 90 days with single or multiple entries. I applied online for a 30-day e-visa, which was approved really quickly. The normal turnaround time is three “working” days in Vietnam. Please note these are only valid if you arrive at one of their main ports, which is most of the major airports and major land borders. Be sure to check the list in advance.
As of 2024, the cost is $25 for single entry and $50 for multiple entry. Apply online at https://evisa.gov.vn/. Make sure to apply early. I made a mistake on my recent multi-entry application, and it took them three days to tell me it was wrong. I had to start over again from scratch and wait another three days to get it approved.
Is Vietnam Safe?
Overall, Vietnam is a really safe place to travel. There are a lot of scams in Hanoi, Ho Chi Min and Na Trang. I honestly felt like taxi drivers were always trying to scam me. (Never take a street taxi by meter because the meters are often rigged. Agree on a price in advance or take a Grab, a rideshare app that’s similar to Uber and used all over Asia.)
Keep a steady hand on your phone, wallet or purse in the Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh. Thieves on motorbikes are a real concern. I met people who narrowly avoided losing their phones this way. I use a phone case with a finger loop so I always have a stronger grip on my phone.
There’s still a large amount of unexploded landmines. Be on high alert in rural areas and abide by all signs. For example, the My Son ruins had signs warning you to stay on the trails.
The short boat ride to Ke Ga Lighthouse was a little sketchy but thankfully, the rest of the transit in Vietnam was reliable and felt a lot safer! (I was really close to the coast, so I knew I was safe.)
Vietnam Transit Options
Buses are the cheapest way to travel. Overall, the sleeping buses are fairly nice. You’ve got a lot of space, and they are air-conditioned. I suggest a bottom bunk if you have a lot of luggage. (You have to take off your shoes and put them in a bag, which I find annoying when you stop at rest stops. They give you communal flip-flops but that grosses me out.)
Trains are okay but pricier. In 2019, it was about $30 for me to go from Da Nang to Na Trang. (There were definitely roaches in my cabin so take a sleep sack to sleep in!) In big cities, I used Grab, a rideshare app that’s popular all over Asia. The app also offers motorbike taxis, which I used a few times. Helmets are provided.
I took a ferry to Phu Quoc island, which was really nice. It was $20 roundtrip. Buy tickets for all transit from the station if possible. It’s always cheaper this way. Domestic flights are fairly cheap but always connect through big cities. In 2019, I traveled by land my entire month-long trip.
Overall, thoughts on Vietnam:
I always enjoy visiting Vietnam. It’s a bit more intense than the rest of Southeast Asia. There is some stunning scenery and the food was amazing. I highly recommend it but just avoid the beaches during the rainy season.
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For more about Southeast Asia, check out these posts:
I Live in Chiang Mai, Thailand Every Winter—Here’s the Best Things to Do
Left: Wat Doi Suthep; Right: Wat Phantao during the lantern festival in Chiang MaiI fell in love with Thailand in 2009 when I was running photo trips for a student travel company in Southeast Asia. While the Chiang Mai has changed a bit over the years, it’s still the city I love so much. I now spend every winter in Chiang Mai for a few months and decided it was finally time to write a guide about the best things to do in Chiang Mai!
Chiang Mai is the smaller laid-back sister to chaotic madness of Bangkok. It has a population of 200,000 and centers around the old city, which is lined by a moat and the crumbling remains of the wall from its 13th century heyday as the capital of the Lanna Kingdom. It’s a foodie town filled with temples and a great base for day trips for waterfalls, trekking and elephants.
Outside of the old city walls, the eastern area (Tha Phae Gate) along the Ping River is the commercial hub filled with markets. The western part is the trendy, hip area along Nimmanhaemin Road (known as Nimman) that’s popular with both the digital nomad community and Chinese tourists for the shopping, cool cafes and coworking spaces.
Whether you’re here for two days or two months, this guide will answer ALL your questions about the best things to do in Chiang Mai, including day trips and the best hotels and hostels.
Affiliate links are used in this post. If you make a purchase, I earn a small commission at no cost to you, which goes toward the cost of maintaining this blog.
Plan Your Trip
Currency: Thai Baht (THB)
When to Go: October to January has the best weather. Avoid the smokey season from February to April.
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The Best Chiang Mai Temples
Wat Chiang Man in Chiang Mai’s old city
There’s literally a temple on every corner in Chiang Mai. Please be sure to dress appropriately when visiting temples—cover your shoulders and knees; remove hats and shoes. Avoiding pointing your feet at anyone or the Buddha statues because it is considered disrespectful. I’ve marked my favorite photogenic temples with asterisks! The famous temples charge 20-30 baht for entry, and the smaller ones are usually free. It’s often free if you go early or late.
I added two asterisks to notate my favorite temples!
Temples Inside Chiang Mai’s Old City Gates
**Wat Phan Tao – This teak temple is one of my favorites and recently just opened about being renovated.
Wat Phra Singh – This is one of the most popular and crowded in town. It’s famous for Lion Buddha Image and golden chedis (a mound-like structure containing relics) with elephants.
Wat Chedi Luang – This is the second most popular and one of tallest structures in town. The brick chedi ruins dates back to 1441 and features a few remaining elephant statues.
**Wat Chiang Man – This is the oldest in town and known for elephant chedi from 1297. It’s one of the best for photography.
**Wat Saen Muang Ma Luang (Wat Hua Khuang) – This small and slightly hidden temple is down a small road near north gate of the city. It’s also stunning for photographs.
Temples Outside the Chiang Mai Old City Gates
Wat Lok Molee – This temple is one of one of city’s older temples. It’s just outside of the north gate to the old city. It’s popular during the lantern festival and always has cool decorations.
Wat Sri Suphan – The silver temple is just south of city walls. It’s stunning except for the fact that women can’t go inside the main temple.
**Wat Buppharam and Wat Mahawan – These are two of the three stunningly beautiful Burmese temples near Tha Phae Gate.
Left:Chiang Mai Old City; Right: Wat Suan Dok
Temples in Driving Distance of Chiang Mai
Wat Doi Suthep – This is the most important temple in Chiang Mai and home to a Buddha relic. It’s located on top of a mountain just outside of town. It’s accessible by songthaew from the city or by foot via the Monk’s Trail.
Wat Pha Lat – This is a small monk temple on the way to Doi Suthep. It’s accessible by car and foot.
Wat Umong – This cave temple is couple kilometers out of city and one of the most unique ones.
Wat Phra That Doi Kham – You can’t miss this big white buddha temple on hilltop.
Wat Suan Dok – This temple is located in the Nimman area and known for the photogenic white stupas/chedis. They offer one-day and multi-day mediation retreats that I totally recommend and regular monk chats!
Left: Doi Inthanon National Park; Right: Sticky Waterfalls (Bua Thong)
The Best Day Trips from Chiang Mai
If you don’t have a motorbike or car for day trips, I’d recommend booking transfers or tours through Klook, an online travel agency with the best deals in Asia. You get 5% off your first booking and discounts off future bookings just for leaving reviews!
Cooking Classes – Chiang Mai is a total foodie town so it’s a great place for a cooking class. I really loved the full-day cooking class at Grandma’s Cooking School, which I booked on Klook. We made six dishes, including dessert. They even have a photographer shooting the entire time and give you the photos for free along with the recipes! I’ve also heard good things about Asia Scenic. (1,200-800 baht/$50-65 USD).
Grand Canyon – This former limestone quarry carved out of red clay soil is a stunning place to relax and swim. It’s broken into three separate sections and two appear to be commercial – one waterpark/wake park on the far left of the canyon and a smaller water park in the center. Both have inflatable obstacle courses, cliff jumping and bamboo rafts for floating. Be careful with cliff jumping as deaths have been reported. Entry 300-150 baht depending on which park you visit.
Sticky Waterfall (Bua Thong) – This waterfall is one of my favorites and never crowded! It’s a multi-tiered waterfall made of limestone and mineral deposits. The rocks are easy to walk on without slipping, hence, the name “sticky waterfalls.” It’s fed by a natural spring that’s connected to the parking lot by a path. There’s a series of ropes and wooden railings to assist with climbing. Entry is currently free. It a 90-minute drive from town so a day tour through Klook, motorbike, rental car or Grab (ride share app) are your best options.
Monk’s Trail – This hiking trail leads up to the city’s most famous temple – Doi Suthep and passes a smaller temple Wat Pha Lat. The first portion of the trail is easy but after the first temple, it gets steep. You can take a songthaew down after the end of the hike. Depending on your fitness level, it can take roughly 90 minutes one-way.
A two-week old baby elephant and her mother at Journey to Freedom, an ethically-run elephant experience near Chiang Mai. Photos by Chris Rufflo.
Ethical Elephant Sanctuaries – While there’s no shortage of elephant activities around Chiang Mai, only book with ethical companies that don’t allow riding like Elephant Nature Park, an elephant rescue and rehabilitation center that offers half, full and overnight tours along with volunteer opportunities. For an intimate wilderness adventure experience with jungle treks and volunteering, consider the four- or seven-day overnight programs at Journey to Freedom.
Meditation Retreat – Wat Suan Dok offers weekly meditation retreats ranging from a one-day retreat on Monday and Fridays; weekly two-day retreats Tuesday to Wednesday and monthly four-day retreats. The one-day retreats are free but donations are appreciated. Two-day retreats are 800 baht. For more information, visit monkchat.net or stop by the monk chat office at the temple. (I personally LOVED the one-day retreat!)
Monk Chat – Wat Suan Dok offer chats on weekdays from 5-7 p.m. and Wat Chedi Luang in the old city offers it weekdays from 9 a.m. – 6 p.m. Both are organized by Wat Suan Dok’s Buddhist university, monkchat.net.
Doi Inthanon National Park– This national park is home to Thailand’s tallest peak at 8,415 feet! It’s also filled with hiking trails and waterfalls. It’s popular with cyclists as well. It’s located 70 kilometers from Chiang Mai, but there’s no public transport unfortunately. (I usually rent a car or hire a Grab driver for the day and split it with friends for day trips.) If you don’t feel comfortable renting a car, consider booking a day trip through Klook.
Mango and sticky rice
The Best Places to Eat in Chiang Mai
Budget Meals in Chiang Mai Under 100 Baht / $3 USD
Moo Ping Khun Por – This breakfast and lunch spot in Nimman serves up one of my favorite Thai dishes — moo ping (grilled pork usually in coconut milk) and khao niew (sticky rice). They also have chicken as well. This was a post-pandemic discovery that I’m obsessed with. 27 Nimmana Haeminda Rd Lane 11
Anchan Noodle – This local spot is famous for blue noodles, which get their color from butterfly pea tea. The noodles are served with a variety of meat choices and spicy dipping sauce. Only open for breakfast and lunch. 19/1 Siri Mangkalajarn Rd Lane 9.
Ming Kwan Vegetarian Restaurant – The vegan khao soi might just be my favorite khao soi in town (and I’m not vegan!)! This spot is budget-friendly and super tasty. I also recommend the veggie Northern Thai sausage! 98 Rachadamnoen Rd Soi 4 (Near Wat Phra Sing)
Mall Food Courts – All malls in Thailand have cheap (and super tasty) food courts with local stalls serving fresh food. The basement level of the Maya Mall and Central Festival are two good ones. The 4th floor of Central Festival is nice as well. I usually eat a meal for 50-60 baht ($2 USD).
Khao Tom Baht Diao – This is the cheapest spot in town for both food and beer with the most convenient hours. Portions are small, but it’s so cheap it doesn’t matter so just order a second dish. It’s open from 5 p.m. to 2 a.m. daily so it’s good any time of day!
Ploen Ruedee Night Market – This hip food truck market is located right beside the sprawling night market. It’s filled with tons of options for eating and small shops. There’s usually live music and cold beer readily available. 28/3-4 Changklan Rd.
Chang Phueak (North Gate) Market – Every night there’s a sprawling local food market located outside the walls of the old city across from the north gate. It winds down around 9 p.m. Highlights are the pork rice lady who wears a cowboy hat at Chang Phueak Pork Leg Rice, which was onAnthony Bourdain, and the sukiyaki spot (Suki Changphuak) that’s just over a few stalls from her. (The sukiyaki spot was on a Netflix show so it’s always got a line. Get a number when you arrive and expect a wait!) I also love the roti pancake guy by the stoplight.
Left: French toast at Gallery Seescape; Right: Granola and fruit from Good Souls Kitchen (I eat Thai food for every meal except breakfast! I love all the tropical fruits!)
Meals from 100 baht/$3 USD and higher
(Most of these spots are around 200-250 baht ($7 USD) depending on what you order.)
Good Souls Kitchen – This vegan spot is my go-to breakfast spot. (I’m far from vegan but love their fruit bowl and homemade coconut yogurt and granola.) Their dinner options and mains are also delicious. I dream of this place when I’m not in Thailand. 52/2 Singharat Rd.
Khao Soi Nimman (Michelin-Guide listed)– This is my next favorite khao soi spot in town. It’s open much later than the others. The northern Thai sausage is the best and spiciest option, but the fried pork is also good. 22 Nimmana Haeminda Rd Lane 7.
Goodneighbor Cafe – This hidden breakfast spot is one of the best in town for bagels and coffee. The chill vibe is also great. 149, 49 M.2 Soi. Ban Pae, Chang Phueak, Muang, Chiang Mai 50300, Thailand
SP Chicken – Rotisserie chicken, sticky rice and spicy stir-fried morning glory are my favorite meal at this local spot in the old city near Wat Phra Singh. Only open for breakfast and lunch.
Night & Day Resturant – For craft beer and northern Thai food, there’s not better place than this local favorite. This is off the tourist trail, which is why I love it. The hang lay curry is amazing, too. 34, 13, Suthep.
Khao Soy Maesai (Michelin-Guide listed) – This local spot serves up the best khao soi (northern Thai soup curry) in town. It’s only open from 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. Go late in the afternoon or there will be a long line. I recommend the chicken and get extra pickled veggies to add in! 29, 1 Ratchaphuek Alley
Klay Cafe, Groon Bread & Brunch Cafe and The Moon Eatery are three of my favorite brunch spots in Nimman area. They all open around 8:30 a.m., which is early for the neighborhood! They each have homemade bread or bagels!
Dinky’s BBQ – That’s right Chiang Mai has authentic Texas barbecue made by an Austinite! The side dishes (slaw, potato salad and fried okra) are tasty just like their homemade tortillas for their tacos. There are several sauces choices but the mustard is my favorite, which is crazy because I normally hate mustard.
Huen Muan Jai (Michelin-Guide listed) – Located diagonally from Khao Soy Maesai, this is another popular restaurant specializing in Northern Thai food. I recommend their sampler platter and the hung lay curry with pork. 24 Ratchaphuek Alley.
Cherng Doi Roast Chicken (Michelin-Guide listed) – There will be a line at this hole-in-the-wall spot. The roast chicken with tamarind sauce is amazing! The menu offers a lot of other chicken dishes along with creative somtam (green papaya salad) options. 2/8 Suk Kasame Rd.
Tong Tem Toh (Michelin-Guide listed) – There’s always a line at this Nimman spot that serves up traditional northern Thai dish like Hang Lay curry and red ant dishes. The chicken wings are perfection. 11 13 Nimmanahaeminda Road.
The Salad Concept – If you’re missing your veggies or are sick, this is the best spot in town. There’s a massive selection of build-your-own salads and wraps. The portions are huge and range from 100-150 baht/$4-5 USD for a main. There are two locations.
Free Bird Café – This vegan spot has delicious coconut and banana pancakes. All proceeds go to the owner’s charity for migrant workers. There’s a zero waste store and second-hand shop inside. They host a weekly women’s nomad lunch on Wednesdays and other events.
The FACES Gallery & Gastro Bar – Hidden in the southern corner of the old city, this fancy spot serves up tasty Thai food in a beautiful setting. Terracotta carvings line the walls. The atmosphere of this spot is 10/10! 33 ถนน Ratchamanka Soi 6.
The Hide Out – With homemade bagels, this is one of the best western breakfast and brunch spots in Chiang Mai. It’s not far from Tha Phae Gate.
Where to Stay in Chiang Mai
A view of the pools at Green Hill Place
For a few nights…
HOTELS: For the best hotels in Chiang Mai’s Nimman neighborhood, I recommend Hotel YaYee ($38 USD/night), which has a great rooftop bar with excellent view of mountains, or Akyra Manor ($138 USD/night) has an equally amazing rooftop bar with cool infinity pool. Both hotels bars are open to the public if you decide to stay elsewhere. In Chiang Mai’s Old City, Baan Hanibah ($82/night) is a lovely family-run guesthouse with comfortable rooms. Hotel rates vary by season.
HOSTELS: For the best hostels in Chiang Mai’s old city, try the sleek rooms at The Common Hostel ($10 USD/night) or Pakping Hostel, which have private bunks with curtains and individual plugs. In Nimman, the highest rated hostels with the best location are Ray Hostel and Bed Addict Hostel. Both are around $13-14 USD/night. (Things are always slightly pricer in Nimman than the old city.)
For a few months….
There’s no shortage of monthly rentals in town. The best ones book out in advance. I’ve included several locations to show the wide variety of options. I prefer to pay $300-400/month personally depending on if I get a studio or a one-bedroom. Electric and water is usually not included. (I’ve never paid more than $30/month total for both before 2019 but now, prices are more than double post-pandemic.) A one-month deposit is also required.
Mirror Chiang Mai – These newly built apartments are family-owned with both one- and two-bedroom units ranging from $540-840 USD/month. The same company owns PT Residences next door, which offers clean but dated apartments starting at $300/month. Weekly cleanings are included.
Huay Kaew Residence – This is the most budget friendly and centrally located spot in town for both the old city and Nimman. The good news: there’s a pool and the complex is huge so there’s always availability. The bad news: the beds are literally like sleeping on a wooden board. Studios start around 3,500 baht/$117 USD per month for 24 square meters.
Liv@Nimman – This modern condo building is swanky and includes a stunning pool. It’s located in the heart of Nimman near Maya Mall. One bedroom apartments start at $672/month.
Green Hill Place – This modern apartment building has two NICE pools and a gym. It’s located by Maya Mall. One bedroom units start at 10,000 baht/$336 USD.
Live Music & Free Events in Chiang Mai
North Gate Jazz
There’s no shortage of live music spots and open mic nights in Chiang Mai. My two favorite live music spots are North Gate Jazz Co-op (open mic night is Tuesdays) and Boy Blues Bar in the Night Bazaar.
One Nimman – This huge shopping complex offers free events including salsa classes on Sunday nights, yoga and swing dance lessons on Saturday nights. Check timings before visiting as this can change often.
Jing Jai Farmer’s Market – This weekly farmer’s market is a must-visit! Aside from fresh produce, there’s a whole section of food stalls ranging from freshly baked banana bread to dumplings. The vendors are also really unique artists and not touristy at all. Open every Saturday and Sunday from roughly 6:30 a.m. to 2 p.m.
The Best Coworking Spaces in Chiang Mai
Left: Punspace Nimman is closed but their Wiang Kaew location is great.; Right: Coco Kala coworking in Chiang Mai.
There’s new coworking spaces opening all the time, and it’s best to choose a place based on where you live. Cafes are always a great backup option. I’ve always gone to Punspace, which has only two locations in town because their Nimman branch closed during the pandemic. (Wiang Kaew is the most social of their three branches.)
CAMP is a 24-hour café in Maya Mall that many people like to work from. Coco Kala is the one of the newest additions that literally just opened at the start of the pandemic but is temporarily closed! It’s a stunning co-living and coworking space with a pool.
Other options include Hub53 (offers unlimited and hourly plans). A monthly membership runs around $100-130 USD depending on the space. Yellow is a new coworking hub in Chiang Mai in the Nimman area that’s huge and always packed.
The Best Gyms in Chiang Mai
Playground Innovative Training Club in the Nimman area of Chiang Mai.
These gyms are located around the Nimman area and I’ve tried them all! (I am picky about gyms when it comes to equipment and air conditioning.) Prices can change frequently so be sure to check with the gyms directly!
Maxx Fitness – This is the nicest gym in the Nimman area and the priciest. It’s located in the Maya Mall and has excellent air circulation and climate control. The equipment is all new and classes are offered. I talked them out of their joining fees and only paid the monthly membership fee of 1,699 baht ($50 USD).
Jett Fitness – This chain gym is located in the One Nimman shopping complex. It’s actually a fairly small and awkward space so I decided to stick to Maxx Fitness instead. They have a good amount of equipment but Maxx is still best in my opinion.
Playground Innovative Training Club – This gym was brand new in late 2019 and located off a side street. The equipment is all really nice, but the space is very small. The main floor area is used for classes in the morning and night so it can only be used from 10 a.m. – 4 p.m. The airflow is awful since they don’t turn on the air conditioning until the afternoons some days and open the windows instead. The small size and lack of airflow is why I didn’t join this gym long-term. Their “opening special offer” is a month with unlimited classes for 1,750 baht/ $51 USD. Sai 26 Road Suthep.
Harris Fitness Center – This is one of the most budget options in town located in the Lotus Hotel. It’s a cramped space with older equipment but lots of options. Classes are also included for free. The staff is really friendly. It doesn’t have great airflow or a/c. Rates are 1,250 baht/month ($42 USD) and 600 baht weekly ($20). 21 Huaykaew Rd.
Gold Hillside Gym & Fitness – (1,100 baht/$37 USD month) This gym is located in the bottom of Hillside Condo 3. It’s a nice-sized space but a bit dated. It’s got good airflow but just didn’t have the equipment I wanted. 25 Huaykaew Rd.
The Wall Fitness Studio – (1,600 baht/$50 USD month or 200 baht/$6 USD day) This new modern gym is located behind the Maya Mall. It’s a large space filled with lots of equipment. Daily and monthly passes are available. (This is the only one I haven’t tried yet because I just love Maxx so much.) 49/22 Huay Kaew Rd.
Vira Yoga Home – My friend Wee has a great yoga studio that I recommend. Class schedules can be found online. He also teaches the 8:30 a.m. class Maxx Fitness on Wednesdays, too.
Best Muay Thai Gyms in Chiang Mai
I’ve been trying out three different Muay Thai gyms and found a good routine splitting between two of them for training. Bear Fight Club Chiang Mai in the old city is one of the best because of the trainers. Classes are roughly 2.5 hours and 300 baht. It’s the most intense and also the most crowded, which is intimidating if you’re new.
Another favorite is Heavy Hit Boxing Gym located southeast of the city. This gym is only pad work and by appointment only (1.5 hours, 300 baht) so it feels like more one-on-one training. There’s never more than a handful of people here. I feel like there’s more individual instruction here to help me improve my form and that combined with Bear Fight Club is a great combination. I’d recommend Heavy Hit first if you’re new to Muay Thai.
The other option I’ve tired is Chiang Mai Muay Thai, which has the most frequent class times. Classes are shorter (1.5 hours) for 390 baht. It’s located in the old city and can also get slammed with people.
The Best Shopping & Markets in Chiang Mai
The art galleries of Baan Kan Wat are just a few miles from Chiang Mai’s old city.
Baan Kan Wat – An adorable artist village just a few miles from Chiang Mai’s old town filled with galleries and cute cafes. Many spots offer workshops and classes. The village is a winding pathway through some cool building designs. It’s a lovely way to spend a few hours. Open Tuesday to Sunday 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.
Jing Jai Farmer’s Market – The best place for shopping for unique items is Chiang Mai’s weekly farmer’s market! It’s a must-visit spot. There are no elephant pants or tourist trinkets here, which is part of the appeal. Most of the clothing is homemade. There’s an entire food court serving up everything from popsicles to dumplings. Open every Saturday and Sunday from roughly 6:30 a.m. to 2 p.m.
Chiang Mai Night Bazaar – This is the main night market in town and runs every night from 6 -11:30 p.m. It’s a good place for food, souvenirs, clothing, luggage, etc. Intersection of Chang Khlan Road and Loi Khro Road.
Talat Warorot – This is where all the locals go to shop – a sprawling complex with food, cheap (not quality) suitcases, clothes, etc. Cnr Th Chang Moi & Th Praisani
Sunday Walking Street – This is a haven for street food and souvenirs, but it’s so crowded you feel like you’re at a music festival smashed against the person in front of you. Rachadamnoen Rd.
Ploen Ruedee Night Market – This food truck market is located near/in the night bazaar. It’s got a wide variety of food options, alcohol, live music and clothing vendors. It’s my favorite spot in the night bazaar. 28/3-4 Changklan Rd
The Best Shopping Malls in Chiang Mai
The largest mall in town is Central Festival, which is outside the city center. Maya Mall in Nimman and Central Chiang Mai Airport, largest mall in Northern Thailand.
All three have movie theaters and pharmacies – the British chains Boots and Watsons along with a Pharmacare Plus (usually the cheapest). From a shopping standpoint, there’s every chain from H&M to Zara to Uniqlo in at least one of these malls. Each mall has a food court with cheap and tasty eats (all homecooked Thai food), which I always frequent. Maya and Central Festival have a Daiso, the Japanese dollar store which is the most useful store on the planet.
Where to get a haircut in Chiang Mai
While there’s plenty of places around to get a haircut, I like New York New York in Nimman. It’s an Aveda salon, and they do a good job. (I’ve had so many terrible haircuts abroad that I’m really picky about places since I have short hair!) Prices range from 550-850 baht ($18-28 USD) for a wash and cut.
Best Thai Massage in Chiang Mai
Oasis Spa is hands down the best and nicest place to get a massage in Chiang Mai but also one of the priciest. Book an appointment before 1 p.m. to save 20 percent! (I got a 60-minute hot oil massage there last week for roughly $1,200 Baht after the discount.)There are two locations (Nimman and Old City).
The runner up is Fah Lanna Spa with three locations in the Old City, Night Market and Nimman. It’s about 25 percent cheaper than Oasis but the facilities aren’t as nice. (Don’t get me wrong—they are really nice but nothing compared to Oasis.) A 90-minute Thai massage is 1,150 Baht. Check Klook for massage deals at both Fah Lanna and Oasis!
The nicest budget-friendly spot is Sense Massage & Spa, which has multiple locations, and charges 450 Baht for a 60-minute Thai massage. I went to Lantana, which has three locations in Nimman, for a years because a 60-minute Thai massage is 350 Baht.
Chiang Mai FAQ
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Do you need travel medical insurance for Thailand?
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SafetyWing’s Nomad Insurance offers $0 deductible travel medical insurance coverage for over 180 countries for people aged 69 and under when traveling outside their home country. The best part is that it only costs a few dollars a day! If you get sick or injured abroad, you can visit any hospital or doctor. Other benefits of Nomad Insurance include coverage for lost checked luggage, travel delays over 12 hours, motor accidents (if properly licensed, wearing all safety equipment and not intoxicated) and injuries from sports or leisure activities. You can even add adventure sports, electronics theft and U.S. coverage (for non-residents) to your policy.
One of the best things about SafetyWing is that you can buy policies abroad and speak to a REAL human from the 24/7 customer support team if you have questions! (I can vouch that they are excellent at assisting and will follow up with you afterward.) Pay in full or choose an auto-renewing plan that can be canceled anytime.
If you’re abroad for 90 days, you can get 30 days of home-country coverage. (For the U.S. residents, it’s 15 days.) Plus, every single part of the process from purchasing a policy to filing a claim is easy, which is why SafetyWing has been the best travel medical insurance policy for me. Read my review of using SafetyWing in Thailand.
Wat Doi Suthep, Chiang Mai, Thailand
When to Go to Chiang Mai
The best time to visit Chiang Mai is in the dry, cooler months from November to February. Temperatures are in the 70s/80s with lows in 60s. Beware of the burning season when the fields in the north are burned and the smoke heavily pollutes the city to unsafe air quality levels, which is normally February and March. (Download the free Air Visual app to check air quality levels!) It can start as early as late December. April and May are steaming hot. The monsoon rains arrive in June but peak in August/September.
How to get to Chiang Mai
The easiest way to get to Chiang Mai is to fly! International flight options are expanding with direct routes to Singapore on Scoot Airways (love this airline!) and Hong Kong via Cathy Pacific. Domestic flights are available from Bangkok and other large cities. There’s a train to Bangkok that takes roughly 12 hours and is always late. (I love the sleeper car. A bottom bunk is roughly $50.) Buses are the cheapest ($20ish) and take about 10 hours from Bangkok.
Local Transport in Chiang Mai
The local transport in Chiang Mai revolves around a system of songthaews—pickup trucks with two benches in the back—that are constantly on the prowl for business. There’s a few different color truck lines (yellow, red, etc.) but the red ones will take you just about anywhere in the city for 30 baht ($1). I use these a lot and find it’s best to tell the driver a large landmark near where I want to go like Maya Mall or Tha Phae Gate.
The rideshare app Grab is the next best option. The company is partially owned by Uber and operates the same way and also included food delivery options in the app. There’s also an option to get a bike taxi instead of a car, which is cheaper. Helmets are provided. Maxim is a new rideshare app that’s a bit cheaper than Grab.
Tuk tuks are a total tourist trap and outrageously expensive. Avoid them. India is the only place they are a good deal.
Car & Motorbike Rentals in Chiang Mai
Motorbikes can be rented just about anywhere in town for roughly 200 baht/day ($6.60 USD). There’s several places along Huay Kaew Road. SAFETY ALERT: If you don’t have a Thai license or an international motorcycle license, most travel insurance companies will NOT cover you if there’s an accident. The police also set up regular check points around the city and fines are 500 baht ($16.50 USD) if you don’t have a proper license.
I’ve rented a car from Budgetcatcher Car and Scooter Rental in Nimman and had a great experience. It was roughly $30/day.
Where’s the best place to buy a SIM card in Chiang Mai?
The easiest thing to do is buy a Thailand specific eSIM card from Airalo that will work instantly when you arrive. If you are traveling to multiple countries in Southeast Asia on a short trip, then consider one of their Asia Regional eSIM cards. (Both the country-specific and regional eSIMs have worked wonderfully for me and even have a mobile hotspot option that’s critical for me because I’m always working remotely.) Keep in mind it’s always cheaper to buy a country specific eSIM than a regional one. For more details, read my Airalo review for Southeast Asia.
Be sure to join the free Airalo Loyalty Program to earn 5% cash back for every purchase, which can be redeemed on future purchases. For more about eSIM cards, check out this post!! Airalo Promo Codes: New customers save 15% off with NEWTOAIRALO15 and existing users save 10% with AIRALOESIM10.
If you’re going to be traveling in Thailand for while, then buying a local SIM or eSIM when you arrive will offer the best value and maximum data. The main carriers are AIS, DTAC and TrueMove. I’ve always used AIS so that’s my preference since coverage is good everywhere I’ve been in the country. You have to show your passport to get a SIM card, which is pretty common in most countries. It’s always more expensive to buy it at the airport.
When I arrived in Thailand, I bought a 30-day plan with 6 GB from AIS in airport for $19 USD. When I topped it up at the AIS in Maya Mall, they offered me a new sim card with a better plan with unlimited data for $8.28 USD. You can top up at machines at 7Elevens or at the retail stores for all the main carriers.
The Chiang Mai Lantern Festival
The monk ceremony during Yee Peng Festival at Wat Phaotao in Chiang Mai. (During the panedmic, this temple was remodeled and this pond no longer exists sadly. One of the big festivals in Chiang Mai is the Yee Peng (also spelled Yi Peng) Festival that’s held during the full moon of the twelfth lunar month every year (usually in November). This festival of lights is known as the lantern festival and also coincides with Loy Krathong. The best locations for the festival are the Three Kings Monument, Ping River to launch the krathongs (small floats made from banana leaves and flowers) and the bridge over the Ping River.
Events vary every year. Many temples like Wat Phantao and Wat Chedi Luang will have ceremonies. In 2022 and 2024, Wat Chedi Lunag had a cool light show reflected on the temple. There’s always a parade by Tha Phae Gate one night.
Before COVID, people were releasing lanterns everywhere, which was a real fire hazard. I’ve literally seen them catch a roof on fire by Tha Phae gate. The city seems to be cracking down on the lanterns for safety reasons. In 2022, there were no lanterns being released by the Ping River near Tha Phae gate except for a rouge one or two.
Last year (2023), there were a lot people releasing lanterns across the Ping River from Tha Phae gate. The main “lantern” release is an overpriced event outside of the city that sells out months in advance. It’s a nightmare to get to because it’s far from the city and you have to take shuttles. When you see photos online of a mass lantern release with no buildings in the background, this is what you are seeing photos of, not central Chiang Mai.
Where to get Medical Care in Chiang Mai
The medical care in Thailand’s private hospitals is FANTASTIC, efficient and affordable. In Chiang Mai, Chiang Mai RAM near the old city and Bangkok Hospital Chiang Mai near Central Festival mall are the two main hospitals. I’ve been to Bangkok Hospital many times and the facilities are really nice. (I get all of my routine annual health checks done in Thailand every year, which I’ve written about in this blog post with a full cost breakdown. I even get travel vaccines in Thailand because it’s easier and cheaper than the U.S.
For medicine, Dara Pharmacy near Central Festival Mall will have any medication you need and it will be at least half the price of Bangkok Hospital.
How to get Thailand Visa Extensions in Chiang Mai
On July 15, 2024, Thailand implemented at 60-day visa upon entry for Americans and 92 other countries. Previously, a 30-day stamp was issued on arrival. After 60 days, you can extend your visa for 30 days at an immigration office. If you need more than 60 days, you’ll have to do a visa run, which I talk about below. There is also a new online system for applying for the extension.
How to do a 30-Day Visa Extension in Chiang Mai (In-Person)
These instructions apply to people who need to extend their 60-day visa stamp for another 30 days.
The main Chiang Mai Immigration Office is located near the airport. (Address: 71 ถนนสนามบิน Mueang Chiang Mai District, Chiang Mai 50200) Hours are 8:30 a.m. – 4:30 p.m. There is also an immigration office at Central Festival mall.
When you arrive, grab a number at the booth by the entrance. You’ll have to fill out the applications forms in the outdoor area to the left. For 30-day visa extensions, you’ll need bring following documents with you: a copy of your passport photo page, a copy of your entry stamp in your passport, a copy of where your accommodation listed you in the government registry, a passport-sized photo and the correct application form (TM.7 form provided at the entrance).
If you forget copies or the photo, the gas station across the street has a booth set up to help. The cost for a 30-day extension is 1,900 baht cash. (Don’t worry – they give change if you don’t have exact change!) There are volunteer staff at a table to help make sure you have the correct paperwork, so be sure to have them look over your papers.
When your number is called, you’ll go up to a window outside, and they’ll check your paperwork. You’ll be given a new number for the inside. Unless you arrive when they open, you’ll likely have to come back after lunch for the inside portion. They will give you the timing to come back when they give you your inside number.
When they call your second number, you go inside, you’ll hand your forms to the main counter. They will give you a ticket with a number and barcode then you’ll be called up to the counter. Your number shows up on a screen. They will take your picture and get any other information they need. They’ll call your name a few minutes later to give you your passport with a blue receipt, which you need to show when you exit the country. The second part is really quick. It’s just the first part that’s so long. Set aside a whole day just to be safe and arrive when they open! The last time I did this it took almost the whole day. Please check their website for holiday closings.
How to do an 30-Day Visa Extension in Chiang Mai Online
As of January 2025, you can now apply for an electronic extension for tourist visas. Book an appointment online, upload the required documents (same as above), book an appointment and pay online. Once your extension is approved, you still have to physically go to immigration to get the extension stamp. The visa fee is 1,900 Baht. There are additional service fees: Regular (7 business days) 500 Baht; Express (3 business days) 1,500 Baht; and Urgent (next day but only if next day is a business day) 5,000 Baht. (I physically got this information off the sign at immigration.)
How to do a Border Visa Run from Chiang Mai
If you need more than the 30-day extension or you have already done a 30-day extension, you’ll need to do a visa run to a land border or fly to another country. I recently did this and wanted to share my experience.
IMPORTANT NOTE: Since the 60-day stamp was implemented in July, land borders to Laos (closest crossing to Chiang Mai) require you spend two nights in Laos before reentering Thailand unless you go through an agency. (If you arrive at any Laos land border by yourself, you’ll likely have to spend two nights in Laos.) I saw signs at the Huay Xai crossing on my recent trip.
I used Chiang Mai Visa Run to take a full-day trip to the border and retuned the same day with a new 60-day stamp. I was picked up at Maya Mall at 6:30 a.m. and we returned around 5:30 p.m. The drive was close to five hours each way with one toilet stop. You send roughly an hour at the border. A immigration official mets the group and escorted us through the entire process, which took about an hour. Traffic getting back into Chiang Mai slowed things down a bit but otherwise it was pretty efficient. There were seven people on my trip total. Many people used this service to transfer to other visas like the Digital Nomad Visa, etc. The company screens all customers to make sure the visa run will work for your visa.
The cost of the visa run is 4,300 baht ($127 USD) and an additional 2,000 baht ($59.14) for the Laos visa. You also have to pay 25 baht (74 cents USD) each way for the bus shuttle to cross the border bridge. (I booked through PayPal so there were some extra fees. In PayPal, make sure to select the option to let your bank do the currency conversion to save a few dollars.)
Due to the visa change, it’s best to use an agency if you’re doing a visa run to the Cambodia border as well or fly out of the country.
For more about Southeast Asia, check out these posts:
Airalo International eSim Review for iPhone
Miyajima, Japan // On my recent trip to Japan and Southeast Asia, I used Airalo’s eSIM cards for my iPhone 15 Pro and it worked perfectly with no issues.
Since I spend most of the year abroad working remotely, having cell service with mobile hotspot capacity is crucial for me. For years, I just bought local SIM cards because they were inexpensive and worked instantly. Then, Apple nixed the SIM tray on their new iPhone models creating quite a conundrum for me because I spend a lot of time in Southeast Asia where the WIFI is often too slow for Zoom so I need cellular data to work. Cellular data has always been my backup plan.
I recently tried out Airalo’s regional and country-specific eSIMs and have been impressed. Airalo is a great international eSIM for iPhone. While I talk about the pros and cons of eSIMs in another post, this post is simply my Airalo eSIM review for a trip in Asia with an iPhone.
(AFFILIATE DISCLOSURE: Please note that some affiliate links are used in this post. If you make a purchase, I earn a small commission at no cost to you, which goes toward blog maintenance costs. I only recommend products and companies I truly love and use.)
First of all, what is an eSIM card?
It’s essentially a digital version of a SIM card that connects your phone to the cellular network. It’s more convenient since people no longer have to buy a physical SIM card and find a tool or paper clip to open the SIM tray! It’s also easier to switch your service off if your phone gets lost or stolen.
What type of eSIMs does Airalo sell?
Airalo sells local (country-specific), regional and global eSIMs. Keep in mind that country-specific eSIM cards are always cheaper than regional or global ones. And, all three are cheaper than paying $10/day for Verizon or other U.S. carrier fees to have international service. Most eSIM cards are data only. If you want to call from abroad, use Skype or Google Voice. I talk about this in my post on traveling and two-step verification. (If you decide to use Airalo, use promo code NEWTOAIRALO15 for 15% off your first purchase!)
Airalo eSIM Card Review for Asia Travel
I’ve included two mini reviews below of my experience using Airalo eSIMs in different parts of Asia.
Japan, Thailand, Indonesia and Malaysia
I reluctantly upgraded to an iPhone 15 Pro recently but still travel with my old iPhone 13 Pro as a backup for SIM card reasons. Airalo had worked previously with my iPhone 13 Pro, but I had some issues initially using eSIMs that I had to call Verizon to solve. My iPhone 15 Pro worked instantly with no issues.
ESIM cards are sold with a set amount of data for a set time frame, which doesn’t start until you activate the eSIM. You can install it and activate it in the future. (I like to buy them in advance in case I don’t have WIFI when I arrive in a new place or as a safety net in case one eSIM expires then I can simply switch to the other.)
In August, I was on a work trip to four countries in Southeast Asia (Thailand, Indonesia, Malaysia and Singapore) so I bought an Airalo regional eSIM card for Asia that was 10GB of data for 30 days for $37. Again, country-specific eSIMs are a better value. For example, my 30-day Japan eSIM was only $24.15 for 30 days for 20GB, which is a much better value for a lower price than my regional Asia eSIM.
When I left Singapore, I flew to Japan for a month-long trip and used up the leftover data on my regional Asia eSIM before switching to a Japan-only eSIM. I spent part of my work trip in Japan on a ship traveling around Japan and knew we were going to Busan, Korea for one day so I bought a 5GB regional Asia eSIM ($18.55 for 30 days) to use there. (They also offer cheaper 7-day plans with less data, but I always need to maximize my data so I usually buy the 30-day ones.)
iPhones allow two eSIMs to be activated at once. I bought and installed all the eSIMs in advance but didn’t activate them until I needed them. I had 5G in most places and didn’t have any service issues despite being in some rural spots. The personal hotspot worked like a dream. (For safety, I turned off cellular data for Instagram because I’m guilty of using too much data on it.)
Cambodia, Laos and Vietnam eSIMs
In early 2025, I traveled to Laos, Cambodia and Vietnam using Airalo using country-specific eSIM cards for each place, but they are all covered on Airalo’s regional Asia eSIM plans. First of all, Airalo is the only eSIM company with coverage in Laos from my research. You can buy a Laos-only eSIM (limited options and pricey—$9.50 for 1 GB) and it’s included in the regional Asia eSIM (better value).
In Cambodia, Airalo partners with the Metfone network, which has better coverage in rural areas compared to using the Smart network. (All networks work in big cities.) It even worked well enough to do voice-calls on the remote island of Koh Rong Sanloem, which is a bit of a cellular dead zone. I was able to hotspot to my computer with no issues when the WIFI was dragging. (I used the Cambodia eSIM with 5GB for 30 days for $13 USD.)
In Vietnam, Airalo is the only option that I’ve found that partners with Viettel, the fastest network in Vietnam.I’ve tried other networks, and they only get LTE, even in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh. This is the fastest data in Vietnam by far. If you need to do Zoom calls or work, don’t risk it with any other network. (Since I just had a short two-night layover, I did the 1GB for 7 days plan for $4.50 USD.)
The Airalo app makes it easy to check your data usage and eSIM expiration date. You can even set the eSIMs to auto-renew! Airalo will send a notification when you get low on data or when it’s about to expire.
Overall, Airalo is fast and convenient. I recommend downloading the eSIMs before you travel so you can simply switch it on the instant your flight lands. It’s cheaper than paying for international service on your U.S. plan (unless you get it for free with your plan) and a no-brainer if you are country hopping on a short trip. For me, it’s my go-to if I’m not staying in a country long term and don’t have time to buy an eSIM from a storefront in the city. I really like the cashback feature of their loyalty program, too. Again, country-specific eSIMs are much better value than regional ones. (Use promo code NEWTOAIRALO15 for 15% off your first purchase or existing users can save 10% with AIRALOESIM10.)
Left: The Airalo app makes it easy to check your data balance of your eSIM cards. Right: If you’re buying multiple eSIM cards, be sure to label them so they are easy to differeniate and only turn on the ones you want to use. (This menu is under Setting > Cellular on the iPhone.)
How does Airalo’s Loyalty Program work?
For every new eSIM purchase, Airalo gives you cashback as part of their Airmoney Rewards Program that can be redeemed on your next purchase.
Here are the tiers:
-
- Traveler: New users get 5% Airmoney Rewards
- Silver Traveler: After spending $20 USD, the reward increases to 6%
- Gold Traveler: After spending $70 USD, the reward increases to 7%
- Platinum Traveler: After spending $200 USD, the reward increases to 10%.
Important Note: You can’t redeem your rewards AND use a promo discount code. You can only do one or the other. I normally see what is cheaper—redeeming my rewards or saving 10% with code AIRALOESIM10.
How to Install Airalo on your Phone:
Airalo makes it easy to install—simply follow the on-screen instructions in the Airalo app.
Tap on My eSIMS in the app, tap the Details button on the eSIM you want to use, tap “View Instructions, tap“Direct” and then, tap “Install eSIM” and follow the on-screen guide. For step-by-step instructions with screenshots, check out this page.
Afterward, a screen will appear saying it’s activated then you can name your eSIM anything you’d like. If you have multiple ones, I recommend labeling them so it’s easy to differentiate between them. In your cellular settings on your phone, make sure the ones you aren’t using are turned off.
How to know if an eSIM work with your phone?
Airalo will tell you before the purchasing process whether or not an eSIM will work with your phone so you aren’t wasting money, which I really respect. This happened to me when I first tried to set one up on my old iPhone 13 Pro. I ended up having to call Verizon to get a few things sorted because I have a pre-paid plan. Afterward, it worked fine and I’ve had no issues on my iPhone 15 Pro.
For more about the pros and cons of eSIM cards, check out this post.
How to Visit Moo Deng from Bangkok Without a Car
Moo Deng napping after a big breakfast and fighting off all the monkey’s trying to steal her food.
Today, I went to visit Moo Deng, a baby pigmy hippo was born on July 10, 2024 in Thailand. She’s achieved international fame on social media for her quirky antics and playful personality. She’s the best thing on the internet right now with a 24/7 live stream!
It’s no easy feat to visit Moo Deng and takes a bit of planning to get good photographs of her. Here’s how my friend and I visited Moo Deng from Bangkok without a car and timed our trip to get the best photos. (I made another blog post of my favorite photos I took of Moo Deng!)
Affiliate links are used in this post. If you make a purchase, I earn a small commission at no cost to you, which goes toward the cost of maintaining this blog.
Where does Moo Deng live?
Moo Deng lives at Khao Kheow Open Zoo in Si Racha, Chonburi, Thailand. The zoo is roughly a two-hour drive from Bangkok (114 km) and an hour’s drive from Pattaya (48 km).
How to Visit Moo Deng from Bangkok without a Car
The easiest way to visit Moo Deng from Bangkok is to drive or hire a car with a driver. We hired a car with a driver through our Airbnb for 3,000 baht ($88 USD) for the day and got a swanky van with nice reclining seats. GetYourGuide offers private transfers. Klook also offers day tours from Bangkok and Pattaya.
If you want to take public transport, you can take a shared van to Si Racha from Bangkok and then, take a Grab or taxi from there.
The zoo sent me Moo Deng’s schedule, which I used Google translate to tranlate to English on the right.
When is the best time to visit Moo Deng?
The zoo posts a rough schedule of Moo Deng’s day, but it’s hard to predict what she’ll feel like doing. She does sleep quite a lot. I recommend visiting at 8 a.m. right after the zoo opens when it’s less crowded. Moo Deng and her mom, Jona, wake up at this time and her mom eats so she’s active. This is also when the caretaker was cleaning their enclosure making for fun moments of those two interacting.
The caretaker was splashing water on her and taking Instagram photos. We also lucked out and got some interaction between Moo Deng and the troublesome monkeys trying to steal their food. Around 9 a.m., they went to sleep and were still sleeping at noon when we checked again. Late afternoon seems to be another active time for them.
Due to overcrowding, the zoo implemented a system where people only get five minutes to watch Moo Deng. Thankfully, it wasn’t crowded when we went on a weekday morning, so we spent about an hour with her. (The five-minute rule only seems to apply when it’s crowded because there was no enforcement when we were there.) There were only a handful of people when we arrived and roughly 30 max. A large tour group showed up at 9 a.m. making it close to 50 people.
I highly recommend visiting early on a weekday. The zoo was busy after 10 a.m. but never overly crowded by Moo Deng’s enclosure when we’d drive by in our golf cart. If you have questions about visiting, I found the zoo to be very responsive to Facebook messages.
Where to Buy Tickets for Moo Deng
Foreigners must buy tickets at a little building on the left before they reach the main entrance gate. Thais can buy tickets at the gate.
Prices: For foreigners, it’s 350 baht ($10.32 USD) for adults and 120 baht ($3.54) for kids. Parking passes are 40 baht ($1.18 USD) for a motorcycle and 80 ($2.36 USD) for a car.
You can buy tickets online through Klook for a slightly discounted rate to save time when you arrive. (We didn’t realize this was an option or we’d have done it!)
Moo Deng getting hosed down by her caretaker early on a weekeday morning. She and her mother are active and eating between 8 a.m. and 9 a.m.
Where is Moo Deng at the Zoo?
No cars are allowed in Zone 1, so you have to walk inside to the zoo. Moo Deng’s enclosure is easy to find – take a left once you walk through the entrance and follow the hippo signs with arrows. It’s roughly a 10-minute walk. You’ll walk across a boardwalk by other hippos until you reach their enclosure. There’s always Moo Deng music playing so it’s hard to miss!
The best photo angles of Moo Deng are from the elevated far end of the enclosure. Unless you are tall, the bottom end has a glass wall and fence wire that gets in the way of photos. In the morning, it’s best to shoot from the top due to the angle of the sun.
On weekends and holidays, the public can feed Capybara’s at Khao Kheow Open Zoo.
What else is there to do at the zoo?
The zoo is divided into two zones and is too big to walk on foot—it’s 2,000 acres. We rented a golf cart for 500 baht ($14.75 USD) for two hours. We basically spent the rest of the time driving around, which was so fun!
Cars are allowed in Zone 2 for a fee. If you don’t feel comfortable driving a golf cart, there is a tram that makes the main stops.
Zone 1 is the busiest area with the main attractions, while Zone 2 is more rural and feels a bit like being in Jurassic Park because you drive by some dilapidated exhibits and enclosures that are no longer used. There are no crowds in this section.
I’m not much of a zoo fan but did enjoy this experience. (I literally flew to Bangkok from Chiang Mai for Moo Deng! My friend and I brought matching t-shirts to wear.)
The other main attractions are the penguin parade where they march out to be fed and an elephant swimming show along with opportunities to feed elephants and giraffes. We didn’t do any of these.
Where can I buy Moo Deng merchandise?
You can’t buy Moo Deng shirts at the zoo sadly. There are plenty of Moo Deng stuffed animals but that’s about it. The zoo trademarked and patented Moo Deng and is supposed to sell licensed t-shirts. I’ve yet to figure out where they are sold but it’s not listed on their website. We bought bootleg ones online and from an artist in Chiang Mai. It’s honestly really hard to buy Moo Deng merchandise anywhere in Thailand!
Where to Go in Southeast Asia
Tat Kuang Si Waterfall is a good day trip from Luang Prabang, Laos!
Southeast Asia is the perfect travel destination – it’s cheap, safe and beautiful. Plus, it’s always flip-flop weather!
There’s no place I love more than Asia. I’ve spent years managing photo trips for a travel company in Southeast Asia and live in Chiang Mai every winter. From jungle treks to ancient ruins, keep reading for my favorite places to visit and things to do in Southeast Asia.
Affiliate links are used in this post. If you make a purchase, I earn a small commission at no cost to you, which goes toward the cost of maintaining this blog.
Plan Your Trip
Travel Insurance: Protect yourself with SafetyWing travel medical insurance to cover accidents and travel delays.
Mobile eSIM Card: Get seamless connectivity worldwide with Airalo minus the hassle of physical SIM card. (Save 10% with code AIRALOESIM10!)
Built in 1560, Wat Xieng Thong in Luang Prabang is one of the most important Buddhist temples in Laos.
Luang Prabang, Laos
Luang Prabang is one of my favorite cities in the world and a traveler’s dream. The entire city is a UNESCO World Heritage site surrounded by lush mountains and sliced in half by the mighty Mekong River. The former French colony opened for tourism in 1989 making it one of Southeast Asia’s best-kept secrets.
The former royal capital is known for well-preserved golden temples and the daily morning procession of monks who walk the streets collecting alms from locals. The town center is lined with delicious French restaurants, cafes and bakeries like JOMA, Popolo, Bamboo Garden, Family Bakery Restaurant and Le Banneton Café & French Bakery.
Don’t miss the local street market one block over – fresh crepes, fish and local stir-fries are available every morning for cheap. Be sure to hike the impressive Tat Kuang Si Waterfall and take a boat trip down the Mekong to visit the Buddha-filled Pak Ou Caves. (Price tours with local agencies and Klook to find the best options.)
IMPORTANT TIP: If you go to the monk alms ceremony, be respectful of the monks! Take photos from a distance and not directly in their faces. Dress conservatively, and do not stand higher than the monks. (You’ll notice most locals are seated.) Avoid giving the monks food because there’s been a huge issue with on-site street vendors selling foreigners old food that makes the monks sick. Let only the locals give food.
Where to Stay in Luang Prabang
I like Meunna Boutique Hotel ($70 USD/night) because it’s a quiet location with a pool that’s walkable to any spot in the city. It’s hard to find a room with a good desk for working so that’s also why I love this post.
Cheaper options include the rooms at Maison Barn Laos for $39/night or the $8/night dorms at La Casa Hostel.
For a fancier waterfront spot, I like the Belle Rive Boutique Hotel ($117/night). Its riverside restaurant is my favorite sunset spot.
How to get to Luang Prabang
The easiest way is to fly—I recommend either Bangkok Airways or Vietnam Airways. There’s a new high-speed train that makes the journey from the capital of Vientiane in less than 2.5 hours. Tickets sell out fast days in advance, so ask your accommodation for help. Check out my Instagram story about my experience! You can take boats downstream from the upper Mekong but a new dam built above Luang Prabang means you’ll be take by van for the last few kilometers. The roads are windy so avoid buses if you can.
When to go to Luang Prabang
I prefer the rainy season which lasts roughly from April to October, which usually means brief showers daily. It’s much lusher. March is the hottest month. November to January are the coolest months and most crowded. The bamboo bridges are up this time of year, which is fun. I either go in August or January.
Two angles of the giant Buddha statue at Wat Si Chum in Sukhothai Historical Park.
Sukhothai Historical Park, Thailand
My favorite place in Thailand is Sukhothai Historical Park, the site of the 13th- and 14th-century capital of Siam. Within the old city walls of the UNESCO World Heritage site, there are 21 sets of gorgeous ruins and another 70 in a five-kilometer radius, which are best visited by bike or motorbike. (I always rent a bike by the park entrance for less than $1 USD.)
The size of the park makes it easy to escape the crowds. The ruins are more centralized and much less crowded than Ayutthaya, whose sites are spread across the town and surrounded by pushy street vendors.
My favorite ruins are Wat Si Chum featuring a famous giant Buddha statue above; Wat Mahathat, the largest ruin and former royal palace, and the Khmer style temple, Wat Si Sawai, that is reminiscent of Angkor Wat.
For a very local experience, visit the nearby site of Si Satchanalai, which is part of the same UNESCO designation. (Sukhothai was the political head of the first kingdom of Thailand while Si Satchanalai was the spiritual headquarters.) For details on how to visit, check out my Instagram highlight on Si Satchanalai.
Where to Stay in Sukhothai
On my last visit, I stayed at TR Guesthouse ($14 USD/night for a private room) and really liked it. Free breakfast is included.
How to get to Sukhothai
The park is a few hours north of Bangkok and the perfect stop enroute to Chiang Mai. Catch a bus from Bangkok’s northern bus station, Mo Chit. The closet train station is Phitsanulok, an hour away. The park is 12 km from the new town of Sukhothai and easily accessible by tuk tuk or a songthaew (pickup truck style bus). The entrance fee for foreigners is 100 Baht ($2.80 USD) for each zone or 350 Baht ($10 USD) for all five zones.
When to go to Sukhothai
Avoid March and April when it’s steaming hot. The dry season, from November to February, has best weather while June to October is monsoon season. I prefer the rainy season when the trees are a vibrant green and the puddles make for great photos.
A bird’s eye view of Ha Long Bay, Vietnam.
Ha Long Bay, Vietnam
Ha Long Bay is one of those places like Machu Picchu that you must visit once in your life. The scenery is postcard-perfect: limestone pillars and tiny islands scattered through the Gulf of Tonkin’s emerald waters. It is the number one attraction in Vietnam.
The best way to experience the bay is to do a multiple-day cruise on a houseboat to explore the islands, swim and eat year weight in fresh seafood! There are short boat trips and overnight cruises for every budget. I recommend spending a night or two on a houseboat!
How to Get to Ha Long Bay, Vietnam
Boats depart from the less-appealing port town of Halong City. It’s four hours north of Hanoi by car or bus. Klook offers budget-friendly transfers and tours.
When to go to Ha Long Bay
Avoid February to April when it’s cool and drizzly. Peak season is June to mid-August, which also corresponds with tropical storm season. November is best for blue skies and calm seas. (I’ve been in July and January.)
Singapore’s famous Merlion, a half-lion and half-fish statue guards Marina Bay.
Singapore
Singapore is the New York City of Southeast Asia, filled with sleek skyscrapers, world-class museums and culinary delights.
The only way to fully understand Singapore’s kaleidoscope of cultures (Chinese, Malay, Indian and Western) is to explore the museums, including The National Museum of Singapore and the Peranakan Museum. Other highlights include the famous Supertree Grove of vertical gardens at the Gardens by the Bay and the view from the rooftop bar of Marina Bay Sands Resort.
Despite its sleek and sophisticated exterior, the heart of the city is the countless food stalls that serve up tasty treats like traditional kaya (coconut jam) toast and Hainanese chicken rice.
For more, read my detailed Singapore guide!
Where to Stay in Singapore
I really love the location of 30 Bencoolen because it’s only a 20–30-minute walk to Chinatown or downtown.
If you’re looking to splurge or cash in points for a luxury stay, then the most iconic hotels are Raffles Singapore, Fullerton Bay Hotel and Marina Bay Sands.
How to get to Singapore
You can fly to Singapore from just about anywhere. Changi Airport is the nicest airport in the world. (Trust me, you WANT a layover in Singapore.) It’s easily accessible by bus from Peninsular Malaysia and by ferry from parts of Indonesia.
When to go to Singapore
Monsoon season lasts from November to January. June to September is when the rain clears off and temperatures spike a bit. Overall, it’s usually 81-87 °F year-round.
Left: The colorful Buddhist temple of Kek Lok Si; Right: George Town’s famous street art.
George Town, Malaysia
Like Singapore, George Town (the capital of the island state of Penang) is a mixture of three cultures and various types of architecture, ranging from Chinese shophouses to British colonial buildings.
It’s also the street art capital of Southeast Asia. Pick up a map from your hotel or the tourism association to guide you through the labyrinth of 3D artwork and murals like the one decorating the shop where Penang native and famous shoemaker Jimmy Choo first apprenticed.
Be sure to eat the crispy chicken with plum sauce for dinner at Tek Sen! Other highlights include the house museums including the famous Blue Mansion.
How to get to George Town, Malaysia
It’s easily accessible by plane from across Southeast Asia. There is a train service from Kuala Lumpur (KL) and buses from all over Malaysia. (I took the bus from KL many times, which was comfy and nice.)
When to go to George Town, Malaysia
The weather doesn’t fluctuate much here. Holidays like Chinese New Year will be crowded. November and December are when temperatures drop a little.
Thomas’s leaf monkeys (left) and Sumatran orangutan (right) in Gunung Leuser National Park on Sumatra, Indonesia.
Gunung Leuser National Park, Sumatra, Indonesia
The Indonesian Island of Sumatra parallels peninsular Malaysia and Singapore and is known for the diversity of its tropical forests. One of the highlights is Gunung Leuser National Park, a UNESCO biosphere reserve that’s home to the critically endangered Sumatran orangutans and endemic Thomas’s leaf monkey. The main hub for visiting the park is the town of Bukit Lawang where orangutan treks can be arranged with guides. (I have been to all seven continents, and this is arguably one of the coolest experiences of my life.)
When to go to Sumatra
Fruit is more plentiful in the rainy season (November to March) making it easier to see the orangutans. I visited in August with no rain and great orangutan sightings.
How to get to Sumatra
Medan is the closest major city with an airport. From there, you can bus or drive. Transfers can also be arranged via Klook.
Where to stay in Bukit Lawang
I stayed at Rindu Alam Hotel, which had convenient access to the jungle trails to Gunung Leuser National Park. It’s a no-frills hotel with large, air-conditioned rooms. The location and food were fantastic!
A sunrise view from the top of Baphuon temple in Angkor Thom in Cambodia.
Angkor Wat, Cambodia
Angkor Wat, the largest religious structure in the world, is Cambodia’s claim to fame—it adorns everything from the currency to the national flag. While the most famous temples in the Angkor Archeological Site are Angkor Wat, Ta Prohm (Tomb Raider temple) and Bayon, there are dozens of other temples built by the same god-kings nearby that are worth exploring.
I visit Angkor every year for work and my personal favorites are Preah Kahn, Baphuon and Pre Rup. (Banteay Kdei is a less-crowded alternative to Ta Prohm.) To make the most of your visit, consider buying at three- or five-day pass.
Venture further for fewer crowds at the Roluos temple group (short tuk-tuk ride east of Siem Reap) or drive northeast to the tiered-pyramid of Koh Ker and the unrestored jungle temple of Beng Mealea. To fully escape the crowds, check out the story I wrote for National Geographic for other remote temple complexes.
The charming tourist town of Siem Reap is the gateway to the Angkor temples. It’s a fun town with great food options like Wild, Sambo Khmer & Thai Restaurant, New Leaf Eatery, Mamma Shop Italian and Fellini. The best craft beer spot in town is Embargo Craft Beer.
Gelato Lab has the best ice cream.
How to get to Siem Reap
Siem Reap is accessible by plane from most major cities in Southeast Asia. (I always fly from Bangkok, Singapore or Ho Chi Minh.) It’s a six-hour drive or bus ride from Phnom Penh.
When to go to Angkor Wat
The rainy season is from May to October. (I personally prefer the end of the rainy season when everything is lush and green.) The weather is cooler (but still hot) from November to February, but all the rice fields and trees are brown.
Where to stay in Siem Reap
The Hari Residence Hotel ($55-60 USD/night) is one of my favorites—rooftop pool and free breakfast.
For more budget-friendly options, consider the highly-rated The Urban ($22 USD/night) or Boutique Indochine d’Angkor ($22 USD/night on Booking.com). Hostels, like Lub d Cambodia Siem Reap and Bokre Angkor Hostel range from $4-14 USD a night.
If you’re looking to splurge on a fancy resort, then I recommend Raffles Grand Hotel d’Angkor or Sofitel Angkor Phokeethra Resort. (This is where I stay for work.)
Miniature tuk tuks at a market in Bangkok.
Southeast Asia FAQ
Do you need travel medical insurance for Southeast Asia?
Yes, travel medical insurance is one of the most important things to purchase for any trip abroad, especially Southeast Asia. It covers all the things that could go wrong from injuries to travel delays so that you don’t have to worry and can focus on traveling!
I use SafetyWing’s Nomad Insurance, which offers $0 deductible travel medical insurance coverage for over 180 countries for people aged 69 and under when traveling outside their home country. The best part is that it only costs a few dollars a day! If you get sick or injured abroad, you can visit any hospital or doctor. Other benefits of Nomad Insurance include coverage for lost checked luggage, travel delays over 12 hours, motor accidents (if properly licensed, wearing all safety equipment and not intoxicated) and injuries from sports or leisure activities. You can even add adventure sports, electronics theft and U.S. coverage (for non-residents) to your policy.
If you’re abroad for 90 days, you can get 30 days of home-country coverage. (For the U.S. residents, it’s 15 days.) Plus, every single part of the process from purchasing a policy to filing a claim is easy, which is why SafetyWing has been the best travel medical insurance policy for me.
For more details about my experience using SafetyWing in Southeast Asia, read my SafetyWing Review.
Where’s the best place to buy a SIM card for Southeast Asia?
If you are traveling to multiple countries in Southeast Asia on a short trip, then consider one of their Asia Regional eSIM cards. (Both the country-specific and regional eSIMs have worked wonderfully for me and even have a mobile hotspot option that’s critical for me because I’m always working remotely.) Keep in mind it’s always cheaper to buy a country-specific eSIM than a regional one.
Be sure to join the free Airalo Loyalty Program to earn 5% cash back for every purchase, which can be redeemed on future purchases. For more about eSIM cards, read my Airalo Review and guide to pros and cons of eSIM cards.
Things to do in Bangkok
A former industrial site in the heart of Bangkok was transformed into the 102-acre Benjakitti Park in 2022.
There’s no denying that Bangkok buzzes with energy—the bustling modern city located on the banks of the Chao Phraya River is filled with towering skyscrapers, ancient temples and vibrant street life. The Thai capital, home to 11 million people, boasts a sleek, air-conditioned public transit system making it easy to zip between neighborhoods at an affordable rate while avoiding the city’s notorious traffic. The hardest part of visiting Bangkok is deciding what to do.
From temple hopping to perusing the stalls at the Chatuchak Weekend Market, this guide covers the best things to do in Bangkok, including where to stay and eat. (If you want to visit Moo Deng (famous baby hippo) from Bangkok, check out my guide.)
Affiliate links are used in this post. If you make a purchase, I earn a small commission at no cost to you, which goes toward the cost of maintaining this blog.
Plan Your Trip
Currency: Thai Baht (THB)
When to Go: November to February for cooler temperatures.
Travel Insurance: Protect yourself with SafetyWing travel medical insurance to cover accidents and travel delays.
Mobile eSIM Card: Get seamless connectivity worldwide with Airalo minus the hassle of physical SIM card. (Save 10% with code AIRALOESIM10!)
Left: Monks at Wat Suthat, one of Bangkok’s most stunning temples; Right: The 82-meter-high Wat Arun photographed from across the Chao Phraya River.
The Best Things to Do in Bangkok
The Grand Palace, the former royal residence, is a must for your first trip. One of the highlights is the stunning golden 1782 temple complex of Wat Phra Kaew, home to the Emerald Buddha, the most revered image in Thailand that dates to the 13th and 14th centuries. (Admission: 500B/$14 USD) Consider booking online through Klook to skip the lines. Cover your knees and wear long sleeves or you’ll be forced to rent clothing.
Wat Pho is near The Grand Palace and home to the largest reclining Buddha in the city. (Admission: 100B/ $2.80 USD)
Wat Arun. Take a boat across the river from the Grand Palace to visit the 82-meter-high Khmer-style tower of this grand Buddhist temple complex located on the Chao Phraya River. You can no longer climb to the top sadly. On your right after the ticket booth, you’ll see two giant guardian statues by a temple—Phaya Yak Wat Chaeng, which has a courtyard surrounded by Buddha statues that are lovely to photograph. (Be warned the temple is now overflowing with people dressing up in traditional clothing to take photos. Arrive early to beat the madness!) The best photo spot of the temple is across the river, which you can get to easily on a water taxi for five baht that leaves right by the temple’s entrance.
Traveling in Southeast Asia
Read my guides to Thailand, Chiang Mai, Vietnam and Singapore!
In Thailand, there is a different Buddha for each day of the week. Saturday is the naga Buddha in this image. These protective amulets are often worn as necklaces.
The Amulet Market is another great spot to hit if you’re by The Grand Palace. The market is a series of covered stalls selling amulets, protective talismans and Buddha statues. These trinkets are highly sought after by monks, taxi drivers and people in dangerous professions. I have bought several from here that I made into necklaces.
Jim Thompson House: This is the best thing in Bangkok. The house/art museum is the former home of American silk trader and antique collector Jim Thompson. The complex consists of six Thai-style houses moved from other parts of Thailand to the current location, which is within walking distance from the MBK center and the BTS Skytrain National Stadium stop. His art collection includes Buddha sculptures dating back to the 8th century along with paintings and porcelain. The art is what makes this place stunning. Photography is not allowed inside the houses. (Admission: 200B/$6 USD)
Wat Suthat holds one of the highest ranks of royal temples in the country. The photogenic courtyard is lined with Buddha statues, which is why it’s one of my favorite temples to photograph in Thailand! (Admission: 100B/$3 USD)
Lotus flowers at Chinatown’s bustling 24-hour flower market, Pak Khlong Talat.
Pak Khlong Talat (Bangkok’s Flower Market): One of my favorite photo spots in Bangkok is the flower market in Chinatown, which doubles as the city’s largest vegetable market during the day. It was once a street market but now resides in a giant warehouse lined with stalls overflowing with orchids, carnations and women stealthy making temple offerings and good luck charms. It’s open 24 hours, but I prefer to go at sunrise to photograph the fresh flowers, which are delivered late at night. Klook offers guided tours if you’d rather not go solo
Wat Saket And The Golden Mount is a golden chedi located on the only hill in Bangkok. It’s worth climbing the 320 stairs to the top and spending some time exploring the sprawling complex. (Admission 50 Baht/$1.50 USD)
Giant Buddha at Wat Paknam Phasi Charoen: This 230-foot-tall Buddha was completed in 2021 on the outskirts of Bangkok. It’s a 15–20-minute walk from the BTS (Wutthakat station) and MRT stations (Bang Phai or Tha Phra stations). (Be warned –it’s covered in scaffolding as of November 2024.) There’s a great view from the Tha Phra MRT platform but often that end of the platform is closed.
Erawan Museum: A 14-story statue of Erawan, a mythical three-headed elephant known as Airavata, is one of the main attractions, known for its colorful interior staircase. The museum was the brainchild of antique collector Lek Viriyapant, who built the structure to house his collection but sadly passed away before it opened in 2003. It’s a bit of a trek to get here on the BTS (Chang Erawan Station (E17) exit 2), but I enjoyed my visit because I love Buddhist art. The grounds are lush and great for photos as well. I recommend visiting in the morning to avoid the crowds. Tickets are normally 400 Baht, but I bought mine almost half price on Klook.
The Golden Mount Chedi is located on Bangkok’s only hill.
Where to Stay in Bangkok
Always choose accommodation near one of the train lines to make it easy to get around. I like to stay near the Siam area because it’s central but have also enjoyed staying near Lumphini Park.
Hotels: The Holiday Inn Express Siam ($88 USD/night) by the National Stadium BTS is my go-to when I need to work because it’s a great location with clean rooms, free breakfast and a gym. If you want to splurge, I recommend VIE Hotel Bangkok ($188 USD/night).
Hostel: I stayed at Bed Block One Hostel ($16 USD/night) for years and loved how close it was to Siam, Ratchathewi BTS station and the airport train
Moo ping, grilled pork skewers with a sweet marinade, at Chatuchak Weekend Market.
The Best Places to Eat and Shop in Bangkok
Chatuchak Weekend Market is Thailand’s largest market and my favorite place to shop. The sprawling complex is separated into 26 sections ranging from local artists to trendy boutiques to potted plants. The entire market is open on Saturdays and Sundays from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. and is close to both the BTS Skytrain (Chatuchak Park stop) and MRT (Kamphaeng Phet stop). Early birds beware—the shops are never all fully open until at least 10 a.m.
Mall Food Courts
No one does malls as well as Thailand. The food court at MBK, a sprawling multi-level maze-like shopping mall in Siam, is the best. The food court is called Food Legends and is hidden on the sixth floor behind all the chain restaurants and vendor stalls. It consists of a series of side-by-side food stalls serving everything from curry to papaya salad with most meals costing less than 100 baht ($3 USD). (Don’t get it confused with the restaurants on the fifth floor, which is more obvious from the escalators than this hidden spot.)
To buy food, you have to put money on a meal card, which you use to pay for your food. Turn in your card before leaving to get a refund of any unused money. You’ll see the card booth as you enter.
Both the Terminal 21 and Siam Paragon shopping malls also have food courts. The food court is located on the top floor of Terminal 21 and the bottom floor of the Paragon behind all the normal restaurants. Both use a similar meal card system.
Thong Lo Neighborhood
If you are a foodie, then this is your neighborhood. Khao Jao is great for no-frills, authentic Thai food with high spice levels. Sit and Wonder is a hidden spot with a great atmosphere and delicious Thai food! Roast is a good treat if you’re craving Western food.
Looking to splurge? Treat yourself to the seasonal high tea at the Arthur’s Lounge at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel in Chinatown.
High Tea at the Arthur’s Lounge
Located on the banks of the Chao Phraya River, the historic Oriental Hotel was a haunt for famous writers such as Graham Greene and W. Somerset Maughan during the early 19th century. Now, the five-star hotel, the Mandarin Oriental Hotel, is part of the Mandarin Group and offers seasonal high teas daily in the light-filled atrium of the Arthur’s Lounge lined with wicker chairs. I thought it was a fun experience to get dressed up and treat myself. Cost was roughly $50 USD. Reservations recommended.
Craft Beer in Bangkok
While there are a bunch of glitzy pricey rooftop bars in Bangkok, I’m a big fan of the craft beer spot called Brewski, located on the top floor of the Radisson Blu Plaza Hotel near the Phrom Phong BTS stop. It’s a chill vibe with Thai and foreign beers on tap and tasty pub food. Don’t miss their BOGO deal for happy hour from 5 p.m. to 6 p.m. daily.
Benjakitti Park’s four lakes can hold a million cubic liters of stormwater. The lakes and wetlands naturally filter polluted water and act as a sponge during monsoon season.
The Best Parks in Bangkok
Lumpini Park is Bangkok’s oldest and largest green space covering 58 hectares. Rent a paddleboat for a loop around the artificial lake or go for a run along the trails between the well-manicured lawns. There’s usually always a Tai Chi class, too.
Another favorite is Benjakitti Park, a 102-acre park built on the site of a defunct tobacco factory with the former buildings now doubling as sports facilities. The natural space is mostly wetlands, frequented by birds, bats and monitor lizards, intersected by a series of elevated walkways. The park acts as a green lung for the city and works like a sponge during monsoon season rains. A flower-lined walking track circumnavigating a pond across the street from a series of skyscrapers is a great space for running or walking.
A naga, a mythical serpent, adorns the stairway of a temple inside The Grand Palace
Bangkok FAQ
Where’s the best place to buy a SIM card in Bangkok?
Do NOT buy a SIM card at the airport because they are ten times the price of an eSIM or local SIM. The easiest thing to do is buy a Thailand-specific eSIM card from Airalo that will work instantly when you arrive. If you are traveling to multiple countries in Southeast Asia on a short trip, then consider one of their Asia Regional eSIM cards. (Both the country-specific and regional eSIMs have worked wonderfully for me and even have a mobile hotspot option that’s critical for me because I’m always working remotely.)
Keep in mind it’s always cheaper to buy a country-specific eSIM than a regional one. Be sure to join the free Airalo Loyalty Program to earn 5% cash back for every purchase, which can be redeemed on future purchases. For more about eSIM cards, check out this post!!
If you are staying for a month or more in Thailand, go by an AIS store and buy a local SIM or eSIM card for the cheapest deal. (AIS is Thailand’s largest mobile network operator.)
Do you need travel medical insurance for Thailand?
Yes, travel medical insurance is one of the most important things to purchase for any trip abroad, especially Thailand. It covers all the things that could go wrong from injuries to travel delays so that you don’t have to worry and can focus on traveling!
I use SafetyWing’s Nomad Insurance, which offers $0 deductible travel medical insurance coverage for over 180 countries for people aged 69 and under when traveling outside their home country. The best part is that it only costs a few dollars a day! If you get sick or injured abroad, you can visit any hospital or doctor.
Other benefits of Nomad Insurance include coverage for lost checked luggage, travel delays over 12 hours, motor accidents (if properly licensed, wearing all safety equipment and not intoxicated) and injuries from sports or leisure activities. You can even add adventure sports, electronics theft and U.S. coverage (for non-residents) to your policy.
If you’re abroad for 90 days, you can get 30 days of home-country coverage. (For the U.S. residents, it’s 15 days.) For more details about my experience using SafetyWing in Southeast Asia, read my SafetyWing Review.
Bangkok Transport Tips
Subway and Skytrain
The cheapest and fastest way into the city from either airport is to take a train. Don Mueang International Airport is connected to the city by a 17-minute train from Krungthep Apiwat Station.
From Suvarnabhumi Airport, take the Airport Link Train, which connects seamlessly to the BTS Skytrain. Some BTS stations are located near MRT stations. Elevators are at stations but not on all sides of the road. There’s always an escalator going up but sometimes, you might have to carry luggage down a set of stairs.
There are multi-trip passes available for both the BTS Skytrain and MRT subway individually. The MRT now lets you tap credit cards FINALLY but not the BTS.
Taxis are ALWAYS cheaper than auto rickshaws/tuk tuks. Taxi drivers rarely want to go by the meter anymore so expect to haggle. It usually takes me three taxis to get one to take me where I want to go at the meter rate. (Sundays are their day off so expect to pay exorbitant prices.) There are motorcycle taxis on most street corners that will take you nearby for a small fee. You’ll see the drivers wearing orange vests hanging around big intersections.
Grab, the rideshare app, does work in Bangkok, but I’ve really struggled to ever get one to pick me up in the Siam area without canceling because of traffic.
Where is the best English-speaking salon for a haircut in Bangkok?
I’ve been going to Shingo at Sensui Salon in the Sukhumvit area for over a decade. The owner, Shingo, is Japanese and speaks perfect English—he even lived in London for a while. I message him on the Facebook page to make my appointments.
Where is the best massage in Bangkok?
I love Nature Thai Massage on Soi 5 in the Siam area. There is a 20% discount for all appointments before 5 p.m. I usually do an oil massage that comes in a private room.
I Live in Thailand – Here are my Favorite Places (and Where to Avoid)
Rice fields during the monsoon season in Bon Mai village in Northern Thailand
The hardest part of any trip to Thailand is deciding where to go. The choices are endless – the white sandy beaches of the Andaman Coast, indulging in Chiang Mai’s culinary delights, visiting Bangkok’s gleaming Buddhist temples and biking through the 13th-century ruins of ancient Sukhothai, Thailand’s first capital. You’ll find it hard to leave.
I’ve spent the last decade living and working in Thailand off and on working for travel companies, teaching English and volunteering with an NGO. I now spend every winter living in Chiang Mai. I decided it was time to write up my favorite places to go in Thailand—I’ve been everyone on this list!
Thailand is a traveler’s dream—friendly people, delicious food and stunning scenery. Plus, it’s budget-friendly and very safe. Keep reading for the best places to go in Thailand and how to best prepare for your trip!
Affiliate links are used in this post. If you make a purchase, I earn a small commission at no cost to you, which goes toward the cost of maintaining this blog.
Plan Your Trip
Currency: Thai Baht (THB)
When to Go: November to February for cooler temperatures. October is very lush at the end of rainy season (my favorite month).
Travel Insurance: Protect yourself with SafetyWing travel medical insurance to cover accidents and travel delays.
Mobile eSIM Card: Get seamless connectivity worldwide with Airalo minus the hassle of physical SIM card. (Save 10% with code AIRALOESIM10!)
A monk walks through the courtyard of Bangkok’s most stunning temple – Wat Suthat.
Bangkok
Bangkok is a kaleidoscope of both Eastern and Western culture – sleek shopping malls just blocks away from traditional Buddhist temples. The capital city boasts a sleek metro train system that makes it easy to get around. Since Thailand is famous for its high-quality medical care, Bangkok is a big hub for medical tourism. I get my annual health checkups in Bangkok and wrote a post with a detailed breakdown of the cost.
The most famous sites are The Grand Palace, the former royal residence, and Wat Phra Kaew, home to the Emerald Buddha, the most revered image in Thailand that dates back to the 13th and 14th centuries. Tickets are 500 baht for foreigners. Consider booking online through Klook if you want to skip the lines. (There is a strict dress code. Cover your knees and wear long sleeves or you’ll be forced to rent clothes.)
Nearby, Wat Pho, known for the reclining Buddha, and the iconic Wat Arun across the river are also a must. (Both are 200 baht each.)
For more things to do in the Thai capital, read my detailed Bangkok Guide!
Where to Stay in Bangkok
Always choose accommodation near one of the train lines to make it easy to get around. I like to stay near the Siam area.
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Bangkok Hostels: I stayed at Bed Block One Hostel ($16 USD/night) for years and loved how close it was to Siam (Ratchathewi BTS) and the airport train.
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Bangkok Hotels: The Holiday Inn Express Siam ($88 USD/night) by the National Stadium BTS is my go-to because it’s a great location with clean rooms, free breakfast and a gym. If you want to splurge, I recommend VIE Hotel Bangkok ($188 USD/night).
Wat Chiang Man is a hidden temple in Chiang Mai’s old city.
Chiang Mai
Chiang Mai is the laid-back culinary hub of Northern Thailand. Stroll through the old town, a 1.5 km square surrounded by original walls and moat to visit Wat Chedi Luang which dates back to 1441. Climb the 306 steps to the mountain-top temple of Wat Phra That Doi Suthep, which is a short trip outside of the city. Stop by the Chiang Mai Night Bazaar, the 1km long sprawling nightly market for a bowl or two of khao Soi, a delicious soup curry.
For more details, check out my Chiang Mai Guide.
The Best Places to Stay In Chiang Mai
HOTELS: In the popular Nimman area, try Hotel YaYee ($38 USD/night) and Akyra Manor ($138 USD/night), which have the best rooftop bars in town.
HOSTELS: In the Old City, consider The Common Hostel ($10 USD/night) or Pakping Hostel, which has private bunks with curtains. In Nimman, Ray Hostel and Bed Addict Hostel have the best locations and ratings. ($13-14 USD/night.)
Traveling in Southeast Asia
Read my guides to Chiang Mai, Bangkok, Vietnam and Singapore!
Chiang Rai’s temple-inspired art project, Wat Rong Khun, features images of Hello Kitty and Keanu Reeves in the interior.
Chiang Rai
The small town of Chiang Rai is often overlooked but worth a visit if only to see the famous white temple, Wat Rong Khun. The temple is a contemporary art project by local artist Chalermchai Kositpipat that opened in 1997 and is still not yet completed! It’s open daily for visitors with a small entry fee (50 Baht/$1.39 USD).
Another local artist, Thawan Duchanee, is known for a 40-building complex known as the black temple (Baan Dam Museum) that features a dark and controversial interpretation of Buddhist philosophy. There’s also a blue temple, Wat Rong Seur Ten. The city has great food, budget accommodation, stunning temples and is a good base for nearby excursions. The nightly light show at the downtown clock is fun. There are a plethora of day-trip tours from Chaing Mai.
Pai
Everyone loves Pai, a mountain town with beach vibes. The bohemian outpost is surrounded by lush mountain scenery and is one of the most visited parts of Northern Thailand. The city center is filled with trekking agencies, boutiques and an endless array of restaurants. The walking street is hopping at night so stick to the edges of town if you want solitude. Highlights include Pai Canyon, the waterfalls of Pam Bok and Mae Yen, and Tha Pai Hot Spring.
The Best Places to Stay in Pai
For rice field views, consider the quieter Yoma Hotel ($58 USD/night) or Buzzas @ Pai Chan, a backpacker’s spot that’s $26 USD/night. Pai Village Boutique Resort ($160 USD/night) is right on the walking street and super fancy.
A reflection of Wat Mahathat in Sukhothai, Thailand’s first ancient capital.
Sukhothai & Ayutthaya
If you love ancient Buddhist ruins as much as I do, then don’t miss these two UNESCO World Heritage sites. Sukhothai was the first capital of Siam in 13th and 14th centuries, and Ayutthaya was the second. Both are easily accessible by bus.
Sukhothai is over halfway between Chiang Mai and Bangkok. Simply rent a bicycle by the park entrance and explore on your own. (It’s totally flat so easy biking!) Vendors aren’t allowed in the walled portion of the ruins making for peaceful exploration. For details on how to get to the park, check out this post. (On my last visit, I stayed at TR Guesthouse ($14 USD/night for a private room) and really liked it.)
Ayutthaya’s ruins are famous for a Buddha head entangled in tree roots at Wat Mahathat. Right: Wat Phra Sri Rattana Mahathat Rajaworaviharn at Si Satchanalai
To get off the beaten path, stay an extra day to visit the nearby Si Satchanalai, one of Thailand’s hidden secrets! It’s 60-kilometer away and part of the same UNESCO designation. (Si Satchanalai was the spiritual capital while Sukhothai was the political head of the first kingdom of Thailand.) Check out my Instagram story highlight about how to visit to Si Satchanalai!
Check out my Instagram highlight about how to visit to Si Satchanalai!
Ayutthaya is 80 miles north of Bangkok and easy to visit on a day tour. Unlike Sukhothai, the sites at Ayutthaya are spread out and has lots of annoying vendors. Doing a tour will make it easy to travel between sights. While both UNESCO sites are worth visiting, I personally prefer Sukhothai because it’s not as crowded, and there are far fewer annoying vendors.
Where to go in Southern Thailand
A 20-minute boat ride from Ko Tao takes you to the Koh Nang Yuan Viewpoint.
The trickiest part of visiting Thailand’s beaches is deciding between the Andaman Coast or the Gulf Islands. The gulf islands of Ko Tao, Ko Samui and Ko Pha-Ngan are close together, while the islands on the Andaman coast are scattered. Both have white sandy beaches and clear water, but the Andaman Coast is known for towering limestone cliffs. (The water is clearer on the gulf side but there’s sea life on the west coast.)
To be brutally honest, I’m not the biggest fan of the Thai islands—I’ve been to them all—because they are all built-up tourist attractions that don’t feel like Thailand. Avoid the rainy season because beaches will be filled with trash and debris, including plastic. This is an issue on most beaches in Southeast Asia.
Thailand’s Gulf Coast Islands
Left: The trail on the way to the John-Suwan Viewpoint; Right: Boat ride to Koh Nang Yuan.
- Ko Tao is a diving mecca of Thailand and second in the world for the annual number of dive certifications. It’s also one of the cheapest places to be PADI certified. If you want to dive, there’s no better place in Thailand. (I stayed at Sairee Cottage Resort on my last visit and would recommend it.)
- Ko Samui is a swanky resort island of the trio and probably the nicest island in Thailand with the cleanest beaches due to the amount of high-end resorts. All taxis are fixed rate, so it’s expensive to get around. Songthaews, pickup trucks with covered rows of seats, are the cheapest options. If you’re flying in and going straight to the ferry to one of the other islands, book a group airport transfer with your ferry ticket.
- Ko Pha-Ngan is the infamous party island known for the Full Moon Parties, a never-ending beach rave filled with electronic music and backpackers covered in neon paint. The party rages on both before and after the full moon. To escape the party scene, head to the laid-back and less visited northern parts of the island.
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Ko Samet’s ferry dock is only three-hour bus ride from Bangkok’s eastern bus terminal. Despite being the closest island to Bangkok, it’s still an underdeveloped destination with a thick jungle interior. I spent my birthday here one year and really enjoyed it. The southern portion of the island is more secluded and parts of the island only accessible by motorcycle or ATV, which are easy to rent. There are no white sandy beaches here, but the water is still clear.
How to get to Ko Samui, Ko Tao and Ko Pha-Ngan
You can fly to Ko Samui from Bangkok easily from Bangkok or internationally. (The airport is privately owned by Bangkok Airways and is one of the coolest airports I’ve ever visited.) Then, it’s easy to take a ferry to the other islands.
The cheapest way to get there is a bus/ferry combination from Bangkok’s southern bus terminal. You can also take the train/bus/ferry combination from Bangkok, but the bus/ferry option is much easier from my experience.
Thailand’s West Coast Islands on the Andaman Sea
Long-tail boats docked on the sandy shores of Ko Phi-Phi Don in Southern Thailand’s Andaman Sea.
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Krabi Town is a key transport hub nestled between towering limestone karsts. Ao Naug and Railay are the nicest beaches nearby. While the town of Ao Naug isn’t the nicest, it’s a great place to grab a boat over to Railay, a tiny picturesque white sandy beach village accessible only by sea.
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Phuket is the celebrity of Thai islands and the largest island in the country. It’s a sprawling 30 miles long, which means you must decide exactly what part of the island to book accommodation. Transport between the main town and other beaches is pricey. It’s a big luxury destination filled with swanky resorts. I recently stayed at the J.W. Marriott for work, which was nice but more geared to families. Phuket just doesn’t feel like Thailand, so I’m not a fan. It is worth a stroll through Phuket town to see the historic architecture. Phuket, like Krabi, is a good transport hub to other islands.
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Khao Lak is a small town with a nice beach an hour north of Phuket. Over the past few years, I spent several weeks there volunteering with an NGO, the Foundation for Education and Development. It’s a great location for day trips to the Similan and Surin Islands, Khao Sok and Khao Lak/Lam Ru National Parks. Klook offers day trips to most surrounding islands with free pickup.
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The Similan Islands Marine National Park is home to the most beautiful beaches in Southeast Asia and one of the prime diving and snorkeling spots. (Ko Bon and Ko Tachai are the best snorkeling and diving areas since they are unaffected by coral bleaching.) Overnight stays were banned in 2018. (Divers can stay on a live-aboard.) The islands are closed annually from May 15 – October 15th each year for environmental reasons. Consider a diving trip or a day snorkeling trip from Phuket and Khao Lak. (I booked day trips to the Similan Islands through Klook, which offer pickups in Phuket, Khao Lak and Krabi.)
Khao Sok National Park is an easy day from Khao Lak but worth staying for a night or two!
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Khao Sok National Park is one of Thailand’s hidden gems. The park centers around an inland, man-made lake, Chiaw Lan Lake, with some Ha Long Bay-esque scenery of towering limestone formations surrounded by some of the world’s oldest evergreen rainforest dating back 160 million years.
Go for a jungle trek to see one of the 300 species of birds, a cave tour or a dip in the calm lake waters. Take a day trip from Surat Thani or Khao Lak or stay the night in a fancy lodge or one of the floating raft houses. If you only have time for day trip, consider booking through Klook, which I use for day trips and skip-the-line entry tickets for big attractions.
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Ko Phi-Phi Don is a backpacker island accessible by ferry from Phuket or Krabi. I was disappointed by the trash on the beaches but loved the nightly fire shows. Its nearby sister island, the uninhabited Ko Phi-Phi Leh, is a gorgeous national park island. You’ll probably recognize the soaring limestone cliffs jutting out of crystal-clear waters from the movie The Beach that was filmed there. It’s a popular day trip with great snorkeling opportunities. Klook offers great day-trip rates from Ko Phi-Phi Don, Krabi and Phuket.
How to get to Phuket and Krabi on Thailand’s West Coast
Phuket is the largest airport with international flights, and Krabi is usually the cheaper option from Bangkok. Phuket is also easily accessible via overnight bus from Bangkok. There is an endless number of ferries between all the islands. Just plan to arrive early to catch a same-day ferry.
Wat Phra That Doi Suthep, Chiang Mai
Thailand FAQ
The Best Time to go to Thailand
It will be hot year-round in Thailand, even in the “cool” season. The rainy season lasts from May to October, but it usually only rains a little each day. The occasional deluge can occur so keep an umbrella handy. (I honestly prefer the rainy season because it’s much greener and lusher.) Avoid the burning season near Chiang Mai in February/March, when the air quality is the worst in the world.
March to May is steaming hot across the country, so avoid this time of year if possible. November through February is peak travel season when temperate drop (low 80’s Fahrenheit in the north), and prices increase dramatically. The water festival (Songkran) in mid-April is another peak travel time so book ahead for accommodation.
Do you need travel medical insurance for Thailand?
Yes, travel medical insurance is one of the most important things to purchase for any trip abroad, especially Thailand. It covers all the things that could go wrong from injuries to travel delays so that you don’t have to worry and can focus on traveling!
I use SafetyWing’s Nomad Insurance, which offers $0 deductible travel medical insurance coverage for over 180 countries for people aged 69 and under when traveling outside their home country. The best part is that it only costs a few dollars a day! If you get sick or injured abroad, you can visit any hospital or doctor.
Other benefits of Nomad Insurance include coverage for lost checked luggage, travel delays over 12 hours, motor accidents (if properly licensed, wearing all safety equipment and not intoxicated) and injuries from sports or leisure activities. You can even add adventure sports, electronics theft and U.S. coverage (for non-residents) to your policy.
If you’re abroad for 90 days, you can get 30 days of home-country coverage. (For the U.S. residents, it’s 15 days.) For more details about my experience using SafetyWing in Southeast Asia, read my SafetyWing Review.
The best place to buy a SIM card in Thailand
The easiest thing to do is buy a Thailand-specific eSIM card from Airalo that will work instantly when you arrive. If you are traveling to multiple countries in Southeast Asia on a short trip, then consider one of their Asia Regional eSIM cards. (Both the country-specific and regional eSIMs have worked wonderfully for me and even have a mobile hotspot option that’s critical for me because I’m always working remotely.) Keep in mind it’s always cheaper to buy a country-specific eSIM than a regional one.
Be sure to join the free Airalo Loyalty Program to earn 5% cash back for every purchase, which can be redeemed on future purchases. For more about eSIM cards, check out this post on the pros and cons of eSIM cards!
If you are staying for a month or more in Thailand, go by an AIS store and buy a local SIM or eSIM card for the cheapest deal. (AIS is Thailand’s largest mobile network operator.)
Tuk tuks made from beer cans at a market in Bangkok.
Thailand Transport Tips & Logistics
Trains
The trains in Thailand are good but usually late by at least 30 minutes to a couple of hours. Sleeper trains are quite comfy and one of my favorite forms of travel. (Always get the bottom bunk – it’s bigger. Plus, the air conditioner makes the top bunk FREEZING.) Book directly at the train station. Bottom bunks sell out so try to buy a day or two in advance.
Bus
Buses are more efficient. Always take the second-class buses instead of the VIP tourist buses. It’s half the price and nicer. (The VIP buses are always blaring music all night and can be targets for people to get robbed since it’s all foreigners. I’ve heard rumors of bus staff going through bags when coming from the beaches.) The second-class buses are usually only locals, so they are safer in my opinion. They have air conditioning and bathrooms, too.
Tuk Tuks
Tuk tuks (auto rickshaw) prices are outrageous in Bangkok. Always get a taxi in Bangkok – it’s significantly cheaper to pay by taxi meter than the horrible flat rate tuk tuk prices. They can be cheaper in other parts of the country. Always negotiate a price beforehand.
Grab
Grab is the Uber of Southeast Asia and originally partially owned by Uber. There are other apps as well like Maxim that are slightly cheaper but a bit more glitchy.
Banking
Exchange rates are always better in towns than at the airport. All ATMs in Thailand are now charging ATM fees for withdrawals. To avoid these fees, be sure to open a fee-free travel bank account before your trip, which will save you a significant amount of money. For more details, check out my post on Travel Banking 101.
Bangkok’s Wat Arun is best photographed from across the river.
How to Dress in Thailand
Thailand is very conservative so be sure to cover your knees and shoulders in temples! Many temples in Bangkok even require long pants and long sleeves, and they will require you to rent clothing if you are not dressed appropriately. Be respectful at all times. Normal shorts are okay in Bangkok and Chiang Mai. Anything goes along the beaches in Southern Thailand.
How to Snag the Best Hotel Deals with Mobile Discounts
The Kumano Hayatama Taisha in Shingu, Japan is one of the three grand shrines I visited on my Kumano Kodo trek.
Accommodation and flights are often one of the biggest travel expenses. On my recent six-week trip to Japan (a combination of work and personal travel), I learned some new money-saving tricks that I wanted to share about how to find the best hotel deals.
(AFFILIATE DISCLOSURE: Please note that some affiliate links are used in this post. If you make a purchase, I earn a small commission at no cost to you, which goes toward blog maintenance costs. I only recommend products and companies I truly love and use.)
Hotel Booking Tips: The Best Mobile Hotel Deals
Booking hotels on mobile apps like Expedia saved me 15-30% on hotels with its mobile pricing. For example, I booked a room at the Smile Hotel in Okayama, Japan on Expedia’s desktop for a Saturday night stay about two weeks in advance for $96. Five days before my stay, I happened to look up the same hotel and date on the Expedia mobile app, and it was nearly 30% cheaper—$69.05! I booked it instantly and canceled the more expensive one. (Now, I’m a bit obsessed with finding the best deal so I often price check rates for refundable bookings when I’m stuck in a grocery store line or waiting for my luggage in an airport baggage claim.)
Fast forward a few days later, I got stranded in Japan because a typhoon delayed and then canceled my Taiwan trip. Since I enjoyed my stay at the Smile Hotel in Okayama, I stayed loyal to the brand. (Smile Hotels have simple, spotless rooms in convenient locations, which I highly recommend if you’re traveling to Japan anytime soon.) I strictly only looked up hotel mobile rates on Expedia, which saved me at least 15% each time and were even cheaper than my previous booking! I booked rooms for $36-50/night after taxes in both Okayama and two Osaka locations by Shin-Osaka and Tennoji train stations. The rates were even cheaper than booking directly through the hotel’s website, which is normally the best place to book. And, I even stayed over the weekend for these cheap rates!
Important note: The U.S. dollar is strong against the Japanese yen currently so it’s much more affordable for Americans to travel now. I was spending around $80-100/night in bigger cities or remote locations before I discovered this hack!
The best part of this trick is that you still earn rewards for booking these mobile deals! The One Key rewards I earned from Expedia for my bookings were easily applied to my next booking, which was great because I was booking new hotels every two days waiting to see what this typhoon would do!
I booked rooms at three Smile Hotel locations in Japan for $36-$50 a night on my trip in September. The hotel brand has clean rooms in convenient locations withing walking distance of major train stations.
How much cheaper are mobile hotel rates?
On average, it is 10-30 percent cheaper than desktop prices. Booking.com requires participating hotels to offer at least a 10% discount.
Why are mobile hotel rates cheaper?
There’s a higher cost to get desktop users to book—paying for ads and keywords—whereas mobile users are easier to convert to a sale. Booking.com says 50% of its traffic is from mobile. (The same article says that two-thirds of those bookings are made by millennials who leave more reviews than other groups.) Some hotels even offer lower rates strictly to mobile users based on these high usage statistics.
It’s always worth double-checking desktop rates, but I’d advise doing it without logging into the website. I had one instance where it seemed like the mobile app changed to reflect the desktop price after I logged in online.
If the “mobile” rate is a good deal and there’s free cancellation, I often just book it on the spot. Then, check the desktop site later to verify. Keep in mind that just because the app claims it’s a “mobile only” deal doesn’t mean that it actually is a better rate. Do your homework.
The Expedia’s mobile rates show up as a green icon when using the app.
What is the best travel app for hotels?
Honestly, I check a variety of apps along with the hotel’s website to compare. My go-to apps are Expedia, Booking.com and Hotels.com. I used Booking.com for my Kumano Kodo hotels and Expedia for all the big cities but did find a cheaper deal on Hotels.com for my hotel (Iroha Grand Hotel) in Nara, Japan. (In Tokyo, I loved this hotel!) I don’t really have any loyalty between the brands. I simply book the cheapest option with the most flexible refund policy.
Loyalty programs and rewards are also important and can help save you more money. Since I’ve finally achieved Booking.com’s highest tier (Genius Level 3), I automatically get 20% off many bookings and even scored a simple room for $26 in Shingu, Japan!
Looking for more Japan travel tips?
Check out my Instagram highlights for a detailed story on budget trips for Japan travel and my hike along the Kumano Kodo, the sacred UNESCO-designated pilgrimage trek.
Why I go Abroad for Health Care
Photo Credit: Stock image from Pexels.com
As a full-time freelancer, finding health care has always been one of my biggest burdens due to the lack of cost transparency and the complicated structure of the American medical system. Since I work for a travel company for part of the year, I have a travel insurance policy that covers me when I’m working abroad.
Travel insurance is $92/month (It would be cheaper if I was under 40.) with no copays or deductibles while my U.S. insurance was $450/month in 2017 with high copays and deductibles.
Health insurance is one of those topics that gets me all riled up, so I’ll do my best to avoid getting on a soapbox. I feel so strongly about the subject that I even wrote a chapter in my book about how to hack the cost of U.S. healthcare because I understand it well, especially the flaws.
In short, the American healthcare system is inefficient and expensive. (Source: The Atlantic) While the quality of care is high in the U.S., the lack of transparency about cost is what frustrates me more than anything because I want to pay upfront and not wait months for some mystery bill to arrive in the mail. Plus, it often takes months to get an appointment, which is nightmare because of my work schedule. Due to this, I’ve started going abroad for my annual physical, routine dental cleaning and other routine doctor appointments. I wanted to explain how I handle medical care in my nomadic lifestyle and dispel myths about the quality of care abroad. I highly recommend it and wish I’d started doing this sooner!
The goal of this post is to show what works for me and share my experience. I hope you find this helpful or at least, interesting!
Affiliate links are used in this post for travel insurance only. If you make a purchase, I earn a small commission at no cost to you, which goes toward the cost of maintaining this blog.
Why I Go To Thailand for Medical Care
All the mailboxes in Bangkok are separated by location.
I have lived and worked in Thailand off and on for the last decade. I love the country and spend most of my winters in Chiang Mai. I’ll probably retire in Thailand because it just feels like home and it’s always warm.
I had a great experience in 2012 when I went to Bumrundgrad Hospital in Bangkok when one of my running injuries flared up. They did a hip x-ray and gave me the results immediately. It all cost a total of $70 compared to the $700 my insurance was billed for the exact same x-ray I had six months prior in the U.S.
Bumrundgrad and Bangkok Hospital have been recommended by all the expats I’ve met living abroad and even my Thai friends. And, these Thai friends have all lived in New York City and other parts of the U.S. so they understand the U.S. healthcare system.
In Hong Kong in 2018, I had lunch with some old friends — a wealthy retired couple from Australia who spend part of their year in Phuket. They both go to Bangkok Hospital in Phuket for their annual physical, which is what led me to start getting health screenings in Thailand as well! I’ve started conversations with other foreigners I’ve met at these hospitals. Most are more affluent than me proving this isn’t something that lower-middle-class folks due to save money. It’s high-end care at an affordable rate! (My income has doubled since I started getting my healthcare done in Thailand, so I can afford to pay for care in the U.S. but prefer the efficiency, quality and refreshing price transparency of Thailand. )
Private healthcare in Thailand is affordable at baseline. Travel insurance doesn’t cover routine care like annual physicals and dental visits. I pay out of pocket for these, but the hospitals all accept insurance.
If you’d like to read more about the quality of Thai healthcare, The Economist recently did a story, Why is Thai health care so good?, and a case study about how the U.S. and Thailand compare on healthcare spending.
The Cost of an Annual Health Checkup in Thailand
The central interior courtyard at Bumrundgrad Hospital in Bangkok looks like a posh hotel more than a hospital!
The quality of the private healthcare system in Thailand is extremely high, safe, efficient and affordable. Unlike in the U.S., the prices are clear and posted. Bloodwork and other test results are delivered in roughly 60-90 minutes.
There is a set price list for annual health check options online for both of the major hospital brands in Thailand. Prices increase based on your age due to the extra tests that are included in the package. The prices below are for Bumrungrad Hospital.
2019: I chose the cheapest option since I’m under 40, and the cost was 7,140 Baht/$235 USD. (Note prices are higher for females because a pap smear is included.) This includes normal physical blood work, a pap smear, a chest x-ray, urine and stool samples and detailed consultation with an English-speaking doctor. This takes two to three hours.
2022: Since I’m 40 now, I had to choose a higher-priced package that included a mammogram with ultrasound, pap smear, EKG, ultrasound of the whole abdomen, chest x-ray, extensive bloodwork and urine/stool samples, and detailed consultation with an English-speaking doctor. All results except the pap smear were given to me at the appointment. Cost was 30,500 Baht/$847 USD. Clearly, this is higher than 2019, but it also includes a lot more. Again, prices are cheaper for men because they don’t need a pap smear or mammogram. This takes roughly three to four hours.
2023: The cost of the same package increased to 33,420 Baht/$991 USD, which was about a 17 percent increase from the previous year.
2024: The cost of the same package increased only slight to 34,700 Baht/$1,029 USD, which was only a 4 percent increase. It only took me three hours from when they took my bloodwork until the end when the doctor sat down and gave me all my results.
The doctors all speak fluent English. You can choose a doctor off the website based on their credentials. (My doctor grew up in Florida, and she’s awesome!) I did this a few times but honestly, it wasn’t necessary since the doctors I was randomly assigned at other times were great and spoke perfect English.
Bumrunggrad International Hospital in Bangkok is constanlty rated one of the best in the world by Newsweek.
Step-by-step guide to a health checkup process at Bumrundgrad Hospital in Bangkok
When you arrive at the hospital, you check in and register to be in the hospital system. If it is your first visit, you’ll need your passport, and they’ll take your photo for their charts. You’ll be given a hospital number that’s your reference for future visits and medical records.
Next, you go to the health screening floor. You take a number and are called up to the registration counter in less than 10 minutes. They go over what package you’ve chosen and what’s included. If you have any medical records or previous x-rays/labs, bring those with you as well. They give you a hospital bracelet with your name and birthday and a barcode they scan at every step of the process. New in 2024: They give you a little buzzer like you’d get a restaurant that lets you know when you are next for all the procedures. Very efficient!
The next counter is the cashier. (You only pay for health screenings in advance since they are packages. Payment is done for normal appointments afterward. Unlike in the U.S., they can easily quote you exact prices before you are given any treatment or tests.)
The floor is set up in a giant circle with the central glass-enclosed area looking down on a well-manicured courtyard below. Each area you proceed to is labeled by letter from A to D.
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- At Counter A, they take your blood pressure and weight, do bloodwork, measure your waist and check your vision. When doing any records or bloodwork, the nurses are constantly asking you to verify your information on the paperwork and labels. They scan you hospital bracelet for everything. They have you verify your name on the vials for the blood, which is printed on a label. Everything is sealed, packaged and sanitary just like in the U.S. (I used to work in India so I’ve been to some proper third-world hospitals, so I know the difference!)
- At Counter B, they ask for a urine and stool sample. This is also where you do your chest x-ray, mammogram with ultrasound, EKG and whole abdomen ultrasound. They give you a key to a locker in a giant changing room/bathroom that’s separated by gender. Each locker has a set of clean scrubs, slippers and hangers for your clothes. They even give you a cute free scarf to wear if you are cold, which is nicer than the Target scarf I packed for this trip.Your name is printed on the containers for the urine/stool samples. You place those in a little cubby inside the bathroom for the nurses to retrieve. You sit in the lobby for your x-ray and other tests for just a few minutes. They call you, and you are done quickly. (Again, they scan your hospital bracelet that they use to verify your name with every test and scan into their computer.) After you are finished, you toss your scrubs in the bins provided and give back the key. They go through, clean and replenish the lockers after each use. The slippers are disposable, so they aren’t reused so I just use my own shoes.
- Counter C is my favorite because it’s where they feed you! A free breakfast buffet catered by the J.W. Marriot is provided! All your bloodwork and test results are processed while you wait. For the basic package in 2019, it was roughly a 60-90 minute process from when they take the bloodwork, which was at Counter A. Keep in mind that they already started processing my bloodwork while I was doing the X-ray and other tests. There’s free, fast wifi so I brought my laptop so I could work while waiting. I barely had a chance to do any work previously because they were so quick to call me!I usually set at Counter C for about 30 minutes or so before they call me back to see the doctor. The doctor goes over your full bloodwork and chest X-ray, mammogram, EKG and abdomen ultrasound results in detail. They ask about preexisting conditions and if you have any concerns. They also do a normal exam listening to your heart and lungs, etc. For women, this includes a breast exam if you didn’t get a mammogram. (You are randomly assigned a doctor. I really liked my doctor. She grew up in Florida and went to medical school in Thailand. I really liked her, so I always request her.)Afterward, men are free to go, but women are ushered over to another hallway to see another doctor to have a pap smear, which is a quick process. This is the only result that’s emailed to you afterward. I got the email about three days later with a detailed PDF with all my test results including the pap smear.
After this, I was done and free to leave. The entire process took about three hours, but they tell you it might but close to four hours! The cost of the health screening and the roundtrip flight to Thailand is cheaper than paying for three months of my old insurance plan in the U.S.!
Important Note: I have no preexisting conditions or major health concerns. I’ve often thought about what I would do if I did, and I would most likely be forced to live abroad most of the year. This would mean making a base in a country like Thailand where medical care is affordable and only traveling to the U.S. for short visits. I spent too many years working jobs in the U.S. that I hated just for the health insurance and decided life was too short to be that miserable. (It’s amazing how my career took off the minute I quit the job I was working just for the healthcare because I finally had the time to devote to what I really wanted to do.) I would just adjust my lifestyle and move my base elsewhere, which also might mean a shift in the type of work I do as well. These things are always on my mind! And, again, this is what’s best for me. I just all this information is helpful to others!
Specialist Doctors in Thailand
The lobby at Bangkok Hospital in Chiang Mai, Thailand.
Dermatologist
Since skin cancer runs in my family, I always go to a dermatologist for a full-body skin check. There is an option to choose a doctor off the website based on their photo and their bio, which is what I had done. I chose one who went to school in Boston. (From this experience and my last experience in the U.S., never choose the young, pretty dermatologists because they will make you feel bad about how you are aging and try to sell you all these cosmetic procedures that aren’t necessary. Older women are always nicer.) This was the only doctor I didn’t really like, but I also felt exactly the same about the last dermatologist in the U.S. who tried to sell me cosmetic procedures. I ended up with a different one this year in 2024 and she was great!
2019 Total Cost: 1,730 Baht/$57.12 USD
2022 Total Cost: 2,000 Baht/$55.54 USD
2023 Total Cost: 2,860 Baht/$84.82 USD (This was a much longer appointment to cover different skin concerns and questions I had, so it cost a bit more.)
2024 Total Cost: 2,675 Baht/$79.34 USD (This year, I had a new doctor who charged a bit more for a new patient visit, but it was still cheaper than last year.)
Gynecologist
I had a golf-ball-sized ovarian cyst a few years ago so as a preliminary measure I went to see a gynecologist for an ultrasound as a precautionary measure in 2019. This entire process from meeting with the doctor to doing the ultrasound was less than 45 minutes. We sat in her office and discussed everything first. I showed her the results from my previous ultrasound in the U.S., which I keep on my computer. During the process, she even had the ultrasound on the screen and labeled everything during the process. (Thankfully, everything was good!) I feel more comfortable with a woman doctor in most situations especially this one, so I chose a woman off the website who went to school in Germany. She reminded me of my grandma with her accent, and I totally loved her. I knew this would cost more, but I wanted to be sure things were okay. I knew I was paying for peace of mind! 2019 Total Cost: 7,060 Baht/ $233 USD ($100 for ultrasound, $100 for doctor fee & $33 for supplies) Now that I’m 40, my healthcare package includes an ultrasound.
Which is better: Bangkok Hospital or Bumrundgrad?
This is a screenshot of the health screening options offered by Bumrundgrad International Hospital in Bangkok.
Both Bumrundgrad International Hospital and Bangkok Hospital offer similar packages. Bangkok Hospital offers discouts making them a bit cheaper. Since Bumrundgrad has my medical records and I like my doctor, I decided to keep using them. Prices increase yearly for all packages, which I covered above.
For appointments, I’d book at least a week ahead. I booked a few weeks ahead so I could get an early morning appointment and my doctor of choice. In Bangkok, both hospitals are fairly accessible by public transit. Since Bumrunggrad doesn’t have a branch in Chiang Mai, I go to Bangkok Hospital in Chiang Mai, which is $3 taxi ride from the center of town.
Bangkok Hospital is the largest network in Thailand with over 40 hospitals in big cities including Phuket. My Thai friends (even the one who lived in New York) like Bangkok Hospital better but say both have the same quality of healthcare.
Keep in mind that the cost of these hospitals is very expensive to most locals. The average income in Thailand is $10-15 USD/day. (This figure comes from a nonprofit I volunteered with several years ago but has likely increased. I see other sources saying it’s $20/day but can’t verify the accuracy.) The two hospitals I mention are private and the most expensive in the country. There are significantly cheaper options that offer quality care for locals, but those doctors don’t always speak English, which is why I go to the private hospitals, which cater to foreigners.
Medicine in Thailand
Photo Credit: Stock image from Pexels.com
In Thailand, you can just buy common antibiotics at the pharmacy without a prescription like doxycycline (malaria drug) and azithromycin (used to treat strep throat, food poisoning, etc.). This does NOT include controlled substances like pain or anxiety meds, etc. Certain medications are only available at pharmacies inside hospitals with prescriptions. When I am prescribed or suggested to take a medication or dosage that I’m not sure about while traveling, I simply call a 24-hour pharmacy in the U.S. like Walgreens or CVS and ask to speak to a pharmacist to get their opinion. I do this in the U.S. all the time to check drug interactions, etc. (You can call U.S. numbers abroad for free with Google Voice.)
If a doctor at any hospital in Thailand prescribes you medicine, it’s much cheaper (almost 50%!) to buy it outside the hospital. Siam Pharmacy near Bumrundgrad Hospital in Bangkok has a wide selection. In Chiang Mai, Dara Pharmacy, not far from Bangkok Hospital, has a wide selection at better prices than the hospital.
Travel Vaccines in Thailand
For travel vaccines, I verify the name of the vaccine to ensure it is one that’s approved by the FDA in the U.S. I recently got my Typhoid Fever vaccine again, which was a shot that lasts for two years. It was a simple process, and the vaccine cost 1,533 Baht/$42 USD (2022 prices), which is half the cost in the U.S.
In late 2024, I got my Yellow Fever vaccine since my plan is to go to Africa next year. It was 5,269 Baht/$155, including the shot and doctor’s fees. (It costs $240 to get the Yellow Fever vaccine at Walgreens. I called while I was in the waiting room just to check.) I had to see a doctor in the infectious disease department, who used to live in Texas oddly enough, to get the shot. He was great and it was a quick process with a same-day appointment. I mainly got this abroad for convenience, but the price savings was a nice bonus.
Dentists in Thailand
Photo Credit: Stock image from Pexels.com
I also get my teeth cleaned in Bangkok at Thantakit International Dental Center at their All Season’s branch. This was recommended to me years ago by my expat friends. The best part about this place is that my teeth cleaning included free pick-up and drop-off in a private car! I started getting my teeth cleaned in Thailand in 2013 after my dental hygienist in Santa Barbara recommended it after she’d scolded me for going too long between cleanings because I’d been living in Asia! She’d lived in Bali previously and said the quality of dentists in Asia was good. In Thailand, an actual dentist cleans your teeth.
2019 Total Price: 1,350 Baht/ $44.56 USD (Thantakit gives you a 10% discount if you pay cash.)
2022 Total Price: $1,200 Baht/ $33 USD + 800 Baht/$22 USD for fluoride application. (I’ll decline the fluoride application in the future because it’s not really needed and I didn’t realize it was extra. It was just added like it was part of the procedure. They still give you a 10% discount for paying in cash. My dentist was lovely so I’d go back to her.)
2023 Total Price: $1,350 baht/$44.46 USD (It was 1,500 Baht but they gave me a 10% discount for paying cash.)
2024: Total Price: $1,500/$44.49 (They stopped doing the 10% cash discount so I just pay with a card now to earn my airline loyalty points!)
Full disclosure: I have perfect teeth, but I went through literal hell to get them, including five years of braces, a cracked tooth, a root canal and a crown that was another two-year hellish ordeal. I’ve lived in five states in the U.S. and been to many dentists, only three I’ve liked. Now, I only trust my hometown dentist with major dental work and will not do that abroad or in another state in the U.S. (I wish I’d driven 18 hours to him instead of getting that damn root canal/crown in Texas.) While I’m open to doing most things abroad even surgery, I won’t let anyone else touch my teeth for major dental work. No one does teeth as well as America.
Dental tourism is a huge business in Thailand. The island of Koh Samui in Southern Thailand is filled with dental centers, especially ones that do implants. People literally fly in and start the process on the first day of their vacation. They vacation and then come back at the end to finish the process!
To dig in a bit deeper into medical care abroad, I also wrote a Travel Insurance Guide here!
What I Do for Health Insurance in the U.S. as a Freelancer
When I quit a part-time job that provided health insurance in May 2017, I paid for a middle-grade healthcare plan through a Texas company called Sendero Health. I purchased it through the health care exchange (Affordable Care Act). Initially, I had a subsidy for my policy, but my income increased so I owed the full amount.
My monthly premium was $350 but jumped to $450 in January 2018. All my co-pays and deductibles doubled, which is why I immediately canceled the plan. While a lot of doctors in Austin were in-network, they often had a limited “quota” for my type of plan that was already filled.
Most of the doctors who I found that would take my insurance were terrible. I canceled the plan because it was useless and focused on other alternatives. (For the self-employed, the Affordable Care Act (ACA) isn’t perfect, but it is a step in the right direction because it covers preexisting conditions without increasing premiums.)
To be VERY clear, I ALWAYS have some form of health care coverage. It’s too risky to do without. When I’m traveling, I have travel medical insurance, which is roughly $92/month with no deductible. (Again, this was half the cost before I turned 40.) This covers if I get sick while traveling and emergency evacuation. For these policies, I pay upfront or monthly depending on how long I need the policy. and they reimburse me in roughly seven to 30 days. (U.S. health insurance rarely covers you abroad.)
For U.S. coverage, I previously used a short-term high-deductible major medical plan that costs roughly $175/month to cover major emergencies with a $7,500 and 100% co-insurance. This means if I get sick, I pay the first $7,500, and they pay 100% of the rest. As of September 2024, the U.S. government restricted short-term major medical policies to only four months maximum in a 12 month period. (This varies by state, and some states have a shorter duration.)
Due to this change, I started investigating global polices that cover up to 180 days each year in the U.S. for Americans who live abroad (Thailand is my current base.) and decided on a Cigna Global plan. (Other similar options include GeoBlue and Vumi, which both have shorter limits for U.S. visits (21 days at a time). Those limits are why I chose Cigna Global.)
Important Note: Most of the ACA plans and even private plans have very limited coverage outside of the state that you live in so read the fine print carefully. If you have an emergency out of state, the doctor will most likely be out-of-network so you’ll be on the hook for that amount. In January 2022, Congress passed the No Surprises Act, which expands restrictions on charging health care plan holders out-of-network rates for certain services. While this can help, I still want to stress the importance of fully understanding your out-of-network benefits within the U.S. for ACA plans.
I’m currently investigating cash-based and direct primary care practices that don’t accept insurance as an alternative. (An example of one these practices is Brightmark Health in Birmingham, Ala. if you’re interested in looking into details. I chatted with the owner, Dr. Jospeh Wu, about the business model recently for a potential freelance story.)
These cash or direct primary care practices paired with a lower cost high-deductible catastrophic insurance plan could potentially lower healthcare costs while also increasing the efficiency of medical care and more quality one-on-one time with the doctor. This could be a game changer for many Americans, including freelancers like myself.
(Check out my post on travel insurance here!)
What travel medicial insurance is best for Thailand?
Travel medical insurance is one of the most important things to purchase for any trip abroad, especially Thailand. It covers all the things that could go wrong from injuries to travel delays so that you don’t have to worry and can focus on traveling! I’m a big fan of SafetyWing’s Nomad Insurance, which offers $0 deductible travel medical insurance coverage for over 180 countries for people aged 69 and under when traveling outside their home country. (Please note that travel medicial insurance will not cover any of the routine doctor’s visits above but will cover injury or illness.) For more details on my experience, read my review of SafetyWing in Thailand!
(AFFILIATE DISCLOSURE: Please note that some affiliate links for SafetyWing travel medical insurance are used in this post. If you make a purchase, I earn a small commission at no cost to you, which goes toward blog maintenance costs. I only recommend products and companies I truly love and use.)