Temisgam Monastery, Ladakh, India

 

Traveling in India is the greatest adventure. Yes, it smells at times, but the scenery is so stunning it defies words. It will make you feel as if you stepped into a wall calendar. The poverty, heat and spices can be intense, but it’s worth every minute. The people will win you over with their kindness and resilience.  There is no place in the world as intensely beautiful or complicated.

I’ve compiled a list of my favorite places—a mixture of both well-known and off the radar spots that I discovered during my five summers in India. I never knew most of these places existed until I arrived there by happenstance or a recommendation from a friend/coworker. Writing this post made me more homesick for India. I hope it inspires you to book a flight!

 

 

12 Places Not to Miss in India: Metab Bagh

A stray cow stops to pose for a photo at Metab Bagh gardens, which are across the river from the Taj Mahal. 

 

1. Metab Bagh

Metab Bagh is the best place to get an iconic view of the Taj Mahal minus the crowds. These stunning gardens lie across the river from the Taj. From my experience, it’s one of Agra’s best kept secrets because taxi drivers never seem to want to take you here unless you are clear about where you want to go. TIP: Go at sunset then go see the Taj at sunrise the next day. (Trust me on this, I’ve been to the Taj seven times.)

 

 

12 Places Not to Miss in India: Kardung La, Ladakh

I faced my fear of heights to climb on this rock over the edge of the cliff at Kardung La pass in Ladakh, India.

 

2. Khardung La

Imagine a spider web of colorful, tattered Buddhist prayer flags strung from a rocky snowcapped mountain top. Include a small tea stand and a giant sign that says you are on the world’s highest motorable road, and you’re at Khardung La. The scenic mountain pass is located in the Ladakh region 39 km from the trekking tourist hub of Leh and connects the Shyok and Nubra Valley. While the sign at the top claims, the altitude is 18, 379 feet, it’s actually 17,582 feet. Until a few months ago, the pass held the title as the highest motorable pass in the world but a new road in India has now claimed the title.

 

 

12 Places Not to Miss in India: Panna Mena k Kund

Stepwell, Panna Meena ka Kund, Amber, India

 

3. Panna Meena ka Kund, Jaipur, Rajasthan

This 16th century stepwell lies near the Amer Fort in Jaipur. It’s smaller than the famous Chand Baori stepwell, and there are no barriers keeping you from climbing the steps to the water. It’s deserted after the crowds leave the Amer Fort.

4. Kerala Backwaters

Everyone should spend a few days or a week living on a houseboat exploring the tropical backwaters of Kerala, a palm-tree lined labyrinth of canals, rivers and lakes that parallel the Arabian Sea in Southern India. The state of Kerala is rated as one of the safest and most environmentally friendly. In my opinion, it’s one of the cleanest parts of India. Southern Indian food is amazing especially thoran, a dry curry with shredded coconut and beets.

 

 

12 Places Not to Miss in India: Dalai Lama Teaching

His Holiness the Dalai Lama waves the crowd as before his teaching at his temple in McLeod Ganj, India on June 9, 2012.

 

5. Dalai Lama’s Teaching in McLeod Ganj

One of the most amazing experiences in my life was attending the Dalai Lama’s teaching at his temple in McLeod Ganj India. I managed to get a photo pass two years in a row. (You can’t take in a camera unless you have a photo pass.) The experience itself is amazing – the power of his humble smile, the smell of the fresh bread the monks pass out while he speaks and the hum of countless languages floating around the room. His temple itself is stunning. Even if you can’t hear him speak, be sure to explore his stunning temple.

How to attend the Dalai Lama’s teaching in McLeod Ganj: You need a ticket, which are only available three days before the teaching at the Tibetan Branch Security Office. Foreigners must bring their passports to register. Seating is first come, first serve with most locals saving their seats a few days before by marking their spot with a pillow. There’s heavy security and metal detectors when you enter so arrive early. For more information, check the Dalai Lama’s website.

 

 

12 Places Not to Miss in India: Qutb Minar, Delhi

The Qutb Minar is one of my favorite spots in Delhi to take my friends and photo students.  

 

6. Qutab Minar

If you love ancient ruins, then you’ll love India. The Qutab Minar is one of my favorite. The UNESCO World Heritage Site lies in Delhi and features a 239-foot tall sandstone tower built in the 13th century. It was a victory tower built after the Islamic conquest of India. Be sure to explore the intricate cloister columns of the Quwwat-ul-Islam mosque at the base of the tower. (Entry fee: Foreigners 500 Rupees/$7.65 USD; Indians 30 Rupees/ 45 cents USD)

 

 

12 Places Not to Miss in India: Gurudwara Bangla Sahib Sikh Temple

A man rests along the edges of the holy pond at the Gurudwara Bangla Sahib Sikh Temple in Delhi, India.

 

7. Bangla Sahib Gurudwara (Sikh temple), Delhi

If you only visit one place in Delhi, this is it. Built in 1783, the white-marble Sikh temple complex, topped with golden domes is surreal. It features a Gurudwara (main worship hall), large holy pond and langar (kitchen). The kitchen serves free meals twice a day and is open to everyone. People of all faiths are welcomed to visit the temple and volunteer. Everyone here is so welcoming and kind. I once visited the temple to watch a lunar eclipse, which was an amazing experience. Bring a bandana or scarf to cover the top of your head to visit. No shoes are allowed inside. Entry is free, and there’s a helpful tourist office.

 

8. The Blue City (Jodhpur)

Jodhpur will be my first stop on my next trip to India. It’s been on my list for years. It’s the largest city in Rajasthan and known for its blue buildings. It’s called the “sun city” because it has sunny weather year-round. The houses are painted blue to keep them cooler.  It’s accessible by train from Delhi and Instagram-worthy.

 

12 Places Not to Miss in India: Oberoi, Hotel

Oberoi Hotel Gurgaon, Delhi, India

 

9. Breakfast Buffet at the Oberoi Hotel

The Oberoi Hotel breakfast buffet is roughly $20 and worth every penny. After a few months in India, this buffet saved me. I was craving real blueberries and yogurt! There is an elaborate display of both Western and Indian breakfast items. Everything listed on their menus along with fresh juices and a long list of teas is also included in the price. There are two locations in Delhi and both are equally amazing. Breakfast runs from 6:30 a.m. to roughly 10:30 a.m. The third location is undergoing renovation and will open in January 2018. To be clear, I never stayed here because it’s out of my price range. I would just stop by for breakfast as a treat to myself.

 

 

12 Places Not to Miss in India: Tso Morris Lake, Korzok

I love skipping rocks at Tso Moriri lake in Korzok, India near the Tibetan border. It’s a six hour drive from Leh roughly.

 

10. Skip Rocks at Tso Moriri Lake

Tso Moriri Lake is one of the best places to skip rocks in the world. It’s the largest high altitude lake in India at 14,836 feet and lies near the Tibetan border. The water is crystal clear and fed by springs and melting snow. (It’s freezing. I stuck my feet in once.) It’s located near the town of Korzok about a six-hour drive from Leh down bumpy roads. There’s an unlimited supply of flat rocks along the edge of the lake. The locals are total pros at skipping rocks!

 

 

12 Places Not to Miss in India: Varanasi

View of the Ganges River in Varanasi, the holiest city in India

 

11. Varanasi

Varanasi is the epicenter of the charming chaos of India. It is the holiest city in the country – the center of life and death – and possibly the oldest living city in the world. Hindu pilgrims journey to the city to wash away their sins at the bathing ghats along the holy Ganges River. Being cremated at the burning ghats along the river is said to end the cycle of rebirth. Ironically, the sacred river is severely polluted and unsafe for drinking and bathing. Yet, it is normal for a dead cow carcass to be floating within 20 feet of a man bathing. Religion is by far the most powerful force in the world.

 

 

12 Places Not to Miss in India: Namgyal Tsemo Gompa monastery, Leh

A view of the city of Leh from the Namgyal Tsemo Gompa monastery

 

12. Leh

Leh is a little tourist town in the Himalayas (11,500 feet) accessible via scary mountain roads or an equally frightening plane landing. It’s a great place for rest between treks and amazing for street photography! It’s by far one of my favorite towns in India. Take the short hike to Leh Palace and Namgyal Tsemo Gompa monastery from town. There’s several great monasteries and palaces nearby including Stok Palace, Shey Palace, Spituk Monastery, Thiksey Monastery, Matho Monasteary, which can be done in a day tour. I recommend visit nearby Alchi and doing homestays in Ang.

 

 

 

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Alfred is probably the only gnome that’s ever been kicked out of the Taj Mahal. 

 

 

Tips for Visiting the Taj Mahal

 

  • Visit at sunrise. Be there first thing when they open at sunrise. There’s less people, bugs and vendors trying to shove little Taj snow globes in your face. Plus, the light is nice for photos and it’s cooler. The Taj is open sunrise to sunset daily. There’s no exact times listed on their website. They are closed on Fridays.
  • Don’t go on Fridays. Again, it’s always closed on Fridays.
  • Dress appropriately. Both men and women should cover their knees and shoulders. I recommend wearing those baggy hirim pants, which are cool and great for keeping the mosquitos away.
  • Don’t take a bag. Carry your camera. They are very strict about what you take inside. No pens, gum or toys are allowed. It’s a very holy and fragile place. (My gnome got kicked out the second time I took him. Although, there was a professional level British film crew shooting parkour inside but yet my gnome wasn’t allowed.)
  • For the best photos, visit Metab Bagh mentioned above. These are the gardens across from the Taj. I recommend to visit at sunset the night before you see the Taj.
  • Plan your transport. The trains to Delhi only run at certain times so you pretty much have to spend a night in the city. It’s annoying. I think the trains back to Delhi only leave in afternoon. You can rent a driver to take you from Delhi as well. If you do this, pay the $15 for the toll road. It’s only 3 hours and much nicer than the seven hour insanity you’ll endure on the other route.
  • Visit the Red Fort.  You get a discount on admission if you do this and Taj on same day.

 

 

A school for monks in Korzok, India

 

Other tips for India

 

  • India is a vast country. You can’t see it all at once. Plan according to seasons based on where you want to go. Summer is miserable in Delhi but perfect in Ladakh. Choose accordingly.
  • Take safe taxis in Delhi especially at night. MERU is a safe taxi service I recommend in Delhi. They operate from the airport and you can call them anytime. Otherwise, have your accommodation order you a taxi. Tuktuks are fine during the day but be weary at night. The metro trains in Delhi are really nice and have a separate women’s car.
  • Dress conservatively out of respect. Cover shoulders and knees at all times.
  • Accept the fact that you will get sick. It’s part of the experience. Pack antibiotics and electrolytes.

 

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COMING UP NEXT

 

Every year I shoot a different gnome Christmas card. This is my card from 2008 when I lived in Sydney. Check out all of his previous Christmas cards here.

Best Travel Gifts for the Holidays 

 

After an intense year of traveling (Kilimanjaro, Yellowstone, etc.), I’ve discovered a ton of great gear and accessories that have made my life easier.  I’ll share my top travel gift ideas for the holidays in my next post, which you can easily send to Santa or pass along to your family.